The Ant scooter can be seen quite often on Russian roads. It has good maneuverability, is easy to drive and reliable. However, like any other wheeled vehicle, a scooter requires regular maintenance. Not all owners of this vehicle know how to properly check the charging relay. We will tell you about this today. And you can purchase spare parts for the Ant motor scooter on the website https://motoimport.net/g18190231-zapchasti-motoroller-muravej. There is everything that is useful for repairing vehicles.
Ignition installation
Installing the ignition on an Ant scooter, as on any motorcycle with a single-cylinder engine and a battery ignition system, does not require special knowledge or effort. All you need is very thin paper, a narrow rod and a set of keys. So, how to set the ignition on an Ant scooter:
- Remove the spark plug and set the piston to top dead center (hereinafter referred to as TDC).
- Insert a rod through the hole from which the spark plug was removed and press it against the piston head. Make a notch at a length of 4.5-5 mm
- Close the breaker contacts when the piston is at TDC. Place paper between them and pinch.
- Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise as slowly as possible and pull the piece of paper at the same time.
- When the paper is released when the piston is lowered to the depth of the mark made, the ignition will be set correctly.
It turns out that ants don’t like to work at all, scientists have found
Owners of motorcycles not only made in Russia, but also of foreign cars often face the problem of “shooting” from the muffler. This happens due to improper care of the air-fuel mixture ignition system. The motorcycle shoots the muffler in several cases:
- when using low-quality gasoline;
- malfunction of the electronics system responsible for fuel supply;
- gasoline does not enter the combustion chamber in pure form;
In such cases, you don’t need to wonder why the muffler on a motorcycle shoots. Poor quality gasoline has a very high combustion temperature due to the addition of water, so it does not ignite completely. The remaining drops fall on the walls of the heated muffler
. Their ignition creates pops.
The motorcycle also shoots into the muffler when releasing the gas. The lower the pressure created in the internal combustion chamber, the more droplets enter the muffler. On some bikes, fuel accumulates in the muffler, followed by rare but very loud bangs.
Most often, but not always, owners of the Russian motorcycle industry face this problem. For example, a Ural motorcycle shoots into the carburetor. This occurs due to direct clogging of gasoline in the carburetor itself. To avoid this problem, it is necessary to constantly clean the filters and change the consumables responsible for cleaning the engine. Proper operation of your bike will not only ensure good engine performance, but will also maintain factory specifications.
Electrical circuit of the motor scooter Ant 2M
The electrical wiring of the Ant 2 and 2M scooter (prototype – Tulitsa 2) is located at the bottom of the scooter. The cargo-passenger version is slightly different in appearance and electrical equipment. A more detailed power supply diagram of Ant 2M allows you to repair and tune the electrical equipment of the scooter.
- Direction indicators
- headlight
- Indicator light (red) for dynastarter operation in generator mode
- Indicator lamp (green) for neutral activation
- Indicator lamp (orange) for direction indicator operation
- Indicator lamp (blue) for turning on the high beam headlights and the speedometer scale illumination lamp
- Sound signal
- Light breaker relay
- Side light switch
- Ignition switch and handbrake brake switch
- Switch for high/low beam and direction indicators
- Relay regulator
- Dynastarter
- Day/night switch with emergency engine shutdown
- Breaker
- Circuit breakers
- Capacitor
- Ignition coil
- Spark plug
- Neutral warning lamp switch
- Rechargeable batteries ZMTR-10
- Foot Brake Light Switch
- Rear light with brake light
The dynostarter as a device is as far from complete perfection as our VAZ plant is from the premium segment. But if at least once a season you carry out competent maintenance of the collector unit, switching equipment, and battery, then with all its inherent shortcomings, the dyno starter can last a very, very long time, up to 30,000 km, or even more.
Why doesn't the engine run in the heat?
Graph of air density as temperature increases (kg/cubic meter)
To understand why the engine begins to pull worse when it heats up, it is enough to understand the conditions of fuel combustion. The fact is that at low temperatures the amount of air in one cubic meter is greater (the air density is higher), and as the temperature increases, its mass decreases. For example, at a temperature of –20°C, the mass of air in one cubic meter is about 1.4 kg, and at a temperature of +30°C, the same mass is 1.16 kg. This means that as the air temperature increases, the car begins to “suffocate” and traction decreases slightly. This is true for all gasoline engines, including fully functional ones.
But if the thrust disappears significantly on a hot engine, then it is worth looking for the reason in the fuel system or ignition, and not in the process of fuel combustion itself.
Schematic diagram
As for the Ant's ignition system, you can upgrade it yourself. You can reduce the current passing through the contacts of the breaker using a transistor switch TK-102 (Fig. 1), which was used on the most common trucks in the past, ZIL-130, GAZ-53A, etc.
By reducing the current in this way by 6-8 times (to 0.3...0.8 A), we will make the breaker contacts almost eternal. The disadvantages of this solution include increased requirements for the cleanliness of contacts, since oil, dirt and dust caught between the contacts no longer burn out, as was the case with a conventional ignition system.
Rice. 1. Connection diagram of the transistor switch TK-102.
The use of a transistor switch makes it possible to use a higher-voltage B-114 ignition coil, which has a large secondary winding (41,500 turns). Since the voltage on the spark plug will increase from 17 to 25.30 kV, you can use a spark plug with a gap of up to 1.2 mm, which will save about 30% on gasoline.
Order payment methods
Cash
— you can pay for your order in cash when purchasing in a store or upon receiving an order from a courier service employee;
Cashless payments
— this payment method is possible for individuals and legal entities. To pay for your order, we issue you an invoice for payment, which you can pay from any bank branch;
Payment by bank card - we accept payments by plastic cards both when paying for goods directly in the store, and online through the cart of our online store
;
To pay for goods using a bank card, when placing an order, you must click the “Payment by bank card” button.
Payment is made through the authorization server of the Bank's Processing Center using Bank credit cards of the following payment systems:
- VISA International
- MasterCard World Wide
When paying for goods through an online store, you need to enter:
- Your credit card number;
- Expiration date of your credit card, month/year;
- CVV code for Visa cards / CVC code for Master Card (last 3 digits on the back of the card):
If your card does not have a CVC / CVV code, then the card may not be suitable for CNP transactions (i.e. transactions in which the card itself is not present, but its details are used), and you should contact your bank for detailed information. information.
How the data transfer process occurs:
To pay for the purchase, you will be redirected to the payment gateway of Sberbank of Russia PJSC to enter your card details. Please prepare your plastic card in advance. The connection to the payment gateway and the transfer of information is carried out in a secure mode using the SSL encryption protocol.
If your bank supports the Verified By Visa or MasterCard Secure Code technology for secure online payments, you may also need to enter a special password to make a payment. You can check the methods and possibility of obtaining passwords for making online payments with the bank that issued the card.
This site supports 256-bit encryption.
Confidentiality of the reported personal information is ensured by PJSC Sberbank of Russia
.
The entered information will not be provided to third parties except in cases provided for by the legislation of the Russian Federation. Payments by bank cards are carried out in strict accordance with the requirements of Visa Int payment systems. and MasterCard Europe Sprl. When canceling an order:
When canceling items from a paid order (or when canceling the entire order), you can order another product for this amount, or return the entire amount to the card by first writing an e-mail or calling us.
Basic faults
- Mechanical, caused by natural wear, combustion of windings, destruction of contact groups
- Structural, due to design features
- Malfunctions of the relay regulator that lead to dyno starter failure
The most unpleasant malfunctions are related to mechanics: combustion of windings, interturn short circuit, wear or destruction of the commutator. Other mechanical faults such as wear or sticking of brushes, contamination of the commutator, breakage or oxidation of wires and terminals can be eliminated quite easily.
Diagnostics
The first sign that something has burned out, shorted or broken in the dyno starter or relay regulator is when, out of the blue, right in the middle of the road, your battery charge control lamp comes on.
If this happens to you, then the first thing you need to do is inspect the wires going from the dyno starter to the relay regulator, check the fuse, remove the cover from the relay regulator and at least visually determine the integrity of its elements, remove the rotor and see what’s wrong with the brushes and collector and if nothing suspicious is found there, turn to a very competent electrician for help.
Connection
- To terminal “B” we connect a thick red wire coming from the battery and a red thin wire with a fuse coming from the ignition switch (terminal AM)
- To the “P” terminal we connect a thin orange wire coming from the ignition switch (CT terminal)
- To terminal “C” we connect the thick red wire coming from the dyno starter.
To terminal “W” we connect the thin black one coming from the dyno starter
To the “YaSH” terminal we connect a thick black wire with a fuse coming from the dyno starter, a thin black wire coming from the dyno starter and a blue wire going to the generator charge control lamp
Disassembly
We remove everything that interferes with the removal of the rotor, hold the rotor by the fan with your hand and unscrew the nut
A good owner should have a washer and a lock under the nut. The bad one won’t even have a nut...
Remove the rotor from the crankshaft. The rotor can be removed either with a factory puller or with a homemade one - it makes no difference.
First of all, we inspect the rotor commutator and brushes. The commutator must not show any wear or damage. For example, this collector is just dirty and after we wash it, the dynostarter will start working again.
And some deer broke out the lamellas of this collector. Such a rotor will be difficult to help and easier to throw away. To prevent this from happening to your rotor, select bolts for the coupling for the magnet and the fan of the appropriate length, and do not put everything you have on hand there...
This collector was pulled up by something, the lamellas were shorted together and the dynostarter died. If you find a good turner, he will be able to sharpen the scuffs and the rotor’s performance will be restored.
There are situations when the rotor is dropped or the windings are hit. You understand that damage to the power windings will not improve the reliability of your scooter’s power supply system, so handle such devices very carefully and use pullers, and do not knock them down like tractor drivers with a hammer.
On this rotor, someone smacked the windings with relish.
Improving the carrying capacity, or making a dump truck out of Ant
Considering all the advantages, many today prefer Ant. First of all, owners are interested in the possibility of increasing its carrying capacity, as well as the possibility of re-equipping the body into a folding one, like a dump truck.
It’s important not to overdo it here. The carrying capacity stated in the passport is 250 kg
They carry more. But at the same time, with such a load, your speed will not exceed 30-35 km/h, otherwise you risk becoming a “goat”. The controllability of the scooter also decreases.
It is possible to increase the load capacity by increasing the sides. This will make it more convenient to transport large volumes of bulk material. But here it is necessary to strengthen the frame of the scooter. Craftsmen use different options for this, for example, they strengthen the frame's pendulum with pancakes (+5-10 kg) to the weight; other available metal will also do.
Welding would be the best option, but there are also cases where an additional frame was made of wood and without a welding machine.
It is better to move the body itself forward or leave it in place, but under no circumstances move it back.
You can find and buy a separately closed booth for the Ant scooter. This is suitable for those transporting delicate goods that need protection. The price for it will be about 8 thousand rubles.
Mechanism options for a dump truck: cable winch, hydraulics with automatic drive, “manual” options with door hinges, etc. Hydraulics will also require the installation of a pump. The costs of such equipment are somewhat high compared to the price of the ant itself.
see also
Comments 10
If you still have a pressing question, send your email, I’ll send you a diagram for remaking the RR, very sensible, or look at the website motorscooter.ru
There is a dynastarter, and it has its own relay, with alternator-starter mode switching. It’s better, of course, to look for something native, but if you don’t have it, you can make something of your own if you have a specialist in electricity who understands. And the Lada transmissions, all these “tablets” and “chocolate bars” with old generators, work constantly. I installed the R-362 on a stationary diesel engine, as well as the R-356 on LUN generators, everything worked. Who cares -
You can’t put a relay from a Lada there, the generator design is not right.
VAZ CHOCOLATE, IF THE CURRENT IS 12 VOLTS, IF 6 VOLTS THEN THE CONTACT RELAY IS THE OLD LADY, WHICH IS ADJUSTABLE.
It’s better to look for something native, boo - they did it well before.
It won’t be a problem to find, you can hardly find analogues.
ready to sell this. write in PM
What happened to the original relay?
Is there a PP121 relay? It seems like the same thing should be on Tula... although I don’t know what’s easier to find.
Yes, in Tula it’s the same. order from the Internet or look on Avito in Russia, maybe there is something similar.
Cleaning the collector
Take a small screwdriver and clean out the dirt between the slats. The collector must be cleaned very carefully so as not to scratch the lamellas.
After cleaning, blow the collector with compressed air, wash it with clean gasoline and wipe it dry with a rag. It is best to wash the collector with a brush: wet the brush in clean gasoline and wash it until the dirt is completely removed. When the gasoline has completely evaporated, take a piece of some lint-free cloth, moisten it a little in gasoline and carefully rub the collector with the maximum possible force until it is perfectly clean.
Tula (motorcycle)
Dear user! To use the site, please enable JavaScript in your browser. Forgot your password? An ATV is a combination of a motorcycle, a car and an all-terrain vehicle. It seems that every vehicle brings its best qualities to the ATV.
So, last fall, “Motoryga,” as I call it, was safely laid up until spring, the oil and gasoline were drained, and the battery was removed. I also had a Ford Ranger pickup back then, so I did some tinkering with it in the winter.
Checking the stator windings
We unscrew the stator mounting bolts, tap it around with a wooden mallet, remove it from the engine, turn it over with the wires towards you, switch the tester to the continuity mode, connect the tester probes to the two rightmost terminals of the windings, if the tester beeps, there is no winding breakage.
We do the same with the remaining two wires: put the tester into dialing mode, connect the tester probes to the ends of the wires, if the tester beeps, there is no winding break.
Adjusting the gap between the breaker contacts
Starline car alarm diagnostics and DIY repairs
Remove the rubber plug covering the breaker from the fan cover, insert a screwdriver into the grille and turn the armature with a screwdriver until the breaker contacts are separated to the maximum possible distance from each other.
Unscrew the bolt for adjusting the contact gap of the breaker
We insert a measuring probe 0.4-0.6 mm thick between the contacts, move the breaker plate until the probe begins to move with a slightly noticeable force, tighten the bolt, turn the engine a few revolutions and check what we got: if the gap is “gone” - We re-adjust.
Contactless ignition Ant, Tula (FULL set of BSZ Muravey 2.5)
The Ant TG 200 is based on its passenger car predecessor, the Tula T-200. The wiring diagram does not have complex components and is suitable for analogues of the Ant TG 200 scooter: TG-200F, TG-200I, TGA 200, TGA 200-01.
- Direction indicators
- Scooter battery
- Speedometer
- Speedometer backlight
- Spark plug
- Ignition coil
- Capacitor
- High beam and horn buttons
- Front side lights
- Low and high beam headlight
- Turn signal switch
- Sound signal
- Turn signal relay
- Switch
- Side light switch
- Battery charging indicator
- Neutral indicator
- Neutral sensor
- Clutch
- Scooter engine starter
- Breaker
- Egnition lock
- Fuse
- Brake light switch
- Relay regulator
- Switch block
- Brake light
- Tail light
We measure compression
Compression is the pressure in the cylinder at the end of the compression stroke. The magnitude of this pressure allows you to assess the condition of the engine. A working Alpha moped engine should have a compression of at least 8-10 kg/cm² (“atmospheres”) . If it is less, then the engine is faulty: either the piston rings are worn out or the valves are leaking. Most likely the engine will need to be disassembled.
Compression is measured using a compression meter - a special pressure gauge that is inserted or screwed in (depending on the design) instead of the spark plug.
Before measuring compression, it is advisable to warm up the engine, but if it does not start, you will have to measure it cold. It is also advisable to unscrew the carburetor or open the throttle valve and turn off the fuel supply.
The engine must be rotated using an electric starter or kickstarter until the compression meter readings stop increasing.
When the compression is less than 8 atmospheres , you need to pour 10-15 ml of engine oil into the spark plug hole using a syringe. If after this the compression increases noticeably, it means the piston rings are worn out . If not, then the problem is in the valves or camshaft drive . The most common reason: the camshaft drive chain is broken or has slipped, or the valves are bent/broken.
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Electrical circuit of the motor scooter Ant 2M
The electrical wiring of the Ant 2 and 2M scooter (prototype – Tulitsa 2) is located at the bottom of the scooter. The cargo-passenger version is slightly different in appearance and electrical equipment. A more detailed power supply diagram of Ant 2M allows you to repair and tune the electrical equipment of the scooter.
- Direction indicators
- headlight
- Indicator light (red) for dynastarter operation in generator mode
- Indicator lamp (green) for neutral activation
- Indicator lamp (orange) for direction indicator operation
- Indicator lamp (blue) for turning on the high beam headlights and the speedometer scale illumination lamp
- Sound signal
- Light breaker relay
- Side light switch
- Ignition switch and handbrake brake switch
- Switch for high/low beam and direction indicators
- Relay regulator
- Dynastarter
- Day/night switch with emergency engine shutdown
- Breaker
- Circuit breakers
- Capacitor
- Ignition coil
- Spark plug
- Neutral warning lamp switch
- Rechargeable batteries ZMTR-10
- Foot Brake Light Switch
- Rear light with brake light
The dynostarter as a device is as far from complete perfection as our VAZ plant is from the premium segment. But if at least once a season you carry out competent maintenance of the collector unit, switching equipment, and battery, then with all its inherent shortcomings, the dyno starter can last a very, very long time, up to 30,000 km, or even more.
Design and principle of operation of the dynastarter
Previously, to start the engine on motorcycles, you had to press the pedal hard. This need disappeared with the advent of the dynastarter. Moreover, for the first time this unit was introduced on Tula scooters, and then they began to install it on Ant.
The advent of electric starters on motorcycles has made the starting process much easier. If earlier sharp pressing required effort, then with the advent of starters, women and older people began to actively master scooters.
A dynastarter is a combined electric machine that has 2 excitation windings. When the engine starts, the dynastarter operates on the principle of an electric starter. He cranks the crankshaft and starts the engine. When the engine is running, the dynastarter generates electric current and operates on the principle of a generator.
The design of the device includes a rotor with an end-face commutator and a stator.
The dynastarter rotor is bell-shaped. The housing provides grooves where the winding is placed. The ends of the winding sections are routed to the end commutator. A hub is installed inside the rotor to secure the rotor to the end of the crankshaft. On the inner surface of the hub there is a groove necessary for fixing the rotor on the crankshaft of the internal combustion engine.
The relay regulator plays an important role in the operation of the unit. It includes a reverse current relay, a voltage regulator, and a starter relay.
Here it is worth familiarizing yourself with the principle of operation of the dynastarter. If you press the key and insert it into the ignition switch, then due to the current supplied to the windings of the dynastarter, the device operates like an electric motor. As soon as the Ant's engine starts, the driver does not press the key, and no current flows to the device. Having reached certain engine speeds, the reverse current relay comes into operation, and then the dynastarter turns into a generator.
In order for the dynastarter to work, a battery must be included in the design of the scooter.
Based on the principle of operation of the considered dynastarter, which was widely used for the Ant scooter, you can address issues of its maintenance and repair.
Wiring diagram for Ant motorcycle
Electrical connection diagrams are usually quite complex and require special skills in order to understand the wires and the purpose of a particular element. But the Ant motorcycle is quite simple in design, so its electrical circuit is very simple.
For the most part, the Ant motorcycle is designed to transport large loads, so it was not equipped with special lighting parts. But it has the most necessary things, and the connection diagram will help you figure out the breakdown or configure the wiring. For the most part, the circuit may be needed due to a malfunction of the basic elements of movement.
Firstly, when starting a cold or already well-warmed one, problems may arise in the operation of light bulbs or other connecting devices. To solve the problem, a visual inspection may not be enough and you will need an electrical diagram.
Also, most of the “ants” that have been preserved since Soviet times have turn signals, brake lights and other light indicators. If they break down, be sure to have a wiring diagram. The final reason for using the diagram below is to check the flywheel, which receives torque when the piston moves.
Also useful for repairs:
- How to take measurements for a plastic window
- Megan 2 headlights don't shine well
- How to make a house façade inexpensively
Order payment methods
Cash
— you can pay for your order in cash when purchasing in a store or upon receiving an order from a courier service employee;
Cashless payments
— this payment method is possible for individuals and legal entities. To pay for your order, we issue you an invoice for payment, which you can pay from any bank branch;
Payment by bank card - we accept payments by plastic cards both when paying for goods directly in the store, and online through the cart of our online store
;
To pay for goods using a bank card, when placing an order, you must click the “Payment by bank card” button.
Payment is made through the authorization server of the Bank's Processing Center using Bank credit cards of the following payment systems:
- VISA International
- MasterCard World Wide
When paying for goods through an online store, you need to enter:
- Your credit card number;
- Expiration date of your credit card, month/year;
- CVV code for Visa cards / CVC code for Master Card (last 3 digits on the back of the card):
If your card does not have a CVC / CVV code, then the card may not be suitable for CNP transactions (i.e. transactions in which the card itself is not present, but its details are used), and you should contact your bank for detailed information. information.
How the data transfer process occurs:
To pay for the purchase, you will be redirected to the payment gateway of Sberbank of Russia PJSC to enter your card details. Please prepare your plastic card in advance. The connection to the payment gateway and the transfer of information is carried out in a secure mode using the SSL encryption protocol.
If your bank supports the Verified By Visa or MasterCard Secure Code technology for secure online payments, you may also need to enter a special password to make a payment. You can check the methods and possibility of obtaining passwords for making online payments with the bank that issued the card.
This site supports 256-bit encryption.
Confidentiality of the reported personal information is ensured by PJSC Sberbank of Russia
.
The entered information will not be provided to third parties except in cases provided for by the legislation of the Russian Federation. Payments by bank cards are carried out in strict accordance with the requirements of Visa Int payment systems. and MasterCard Europe Sprl. When canceling an order:
When canceling items from a paid order (or when canceling the entire order), you can order another product for this amount, or return the entire amount to the card by first writing an e-mail or calling us.
Basic faults
- Mechanical, caused by natural wear, combustion of windings, destruction of contact groups
- Structural, due to design features
- Malfunctions of the relay regulator that lead to dyno starter failure
The most unpleasant malfunctions are related to mechanics: combustion of windings, interturn short circuit, wear or destruction of the commutator. Other mechanical faults such as wear or sticking of brushes, contamination of the commutator, breakage or oxidation of wires and terminals can be eliminated quite easily.
Diagnostics
The first sign that something has burned out, shorted or broken in the dyno starter or relay regulator is when, out of the blue, right in the middle of the road, your battery charge control lamp comes on.
If this happens to you, then the first thing you need to do is inspect the wires going from the dyno starter to the relay regulator, check the fuse, remove the cover from the relay regulator and at least visually determine the integrity of its elements, remove the rotor and see what’s wrong with the brushes and collector and if nothing suspicious is found there, turn to a very competent electrician for help.
Symptoms
The engine starts with great difficulty, there is practically no traction. The owner swears and swears that everything was installed new (you know the symptom too).
In such cases, first of all, you need to check the spark, the ignition timing, the carburetor, the rubber gaskets under the carburetor (the gaskets often burst and thickly and begin to suck air through the cracks) and, just in case, the air filter. If nothing suspicious is found in these devices, measure the compression in the combustion chamber and if it is below 8 kg/cm, feel free to open the piston
In our case, the piston is new, so we will not measure the compression, but will immediately remove the head and see how things are going there. But things here are neither bad nor good: new parts are so disgusting that you need to think three hundred times before buying them.
The new head turned out to be crooked and a fair amount of compression was lost through it. The matter was further complicated by the fact that the cylinder liner was pressed flush with the cooling jacket. Over time, the sleeve warped a little, literally by a tenth of a millimeter, due to which the already crooked head began to rest on the shirt in one place and a decent gap formed between it and the sleeve.
The presence of oil under the head can indirectly indicate depressurization of the combustion chamber. You can see for yourself how much oil there is... How can you drive like this and still wonder why the engine won’t start? How can it start if all the compression has escaped through leaks.
The white holes around the sleeve show how much the head fits onto the shirt and fits decently: in some places by 6 mm
Dark spots on the plane of the head indicate leaks. It was siphoning through them. The problem is actually not that serious: we grind the head and forget about the problem forever
