The Ant scooter is a Soviet motor scooter with three wheels. For the first time, the Tula Industrial Plant began producing such equipment, which was quite difficult to buy because it was initially in short supply. Later, several modifications of the scooter were released, but all of them were created on the basis of the original version. Now the Ant scooter has become a common technique that is accessible to almost everyone.
Previously, a scooter had one purpose, one main goal: the transportation of various goods. Of course, at present the Ant scooter is not in such overwhelming demand as it was during the USSR, so finding spare parts for it is now very difficult. However, in some Asian countries such a device is still in incredible demand, so it will not be difficult to buy the missing parts here.
To watch online, click on the video ⤵
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Source
Device and technical parameters
How to correctly set the magneto ignition on an Ant scooter
The design of the Ant scooter was quite simple and consisted of the following main parts:
- engine;
- frame;
- transmission and suspension;
- electrical equipment;
- brake system;
- body.
Such a simple design of the Ant 2M 01 scooter and its wide unification with the two-wheeled Tulitsa (Tula) model allowed the owners to carry out repairs themselves.
The TMZ Ant motor scooter had the following technical characteristics and operational parameters (data for modification of the Ant 2M motor scooter are given in parentheses):
- Drive – 3x2.
- Load capacity – 0.25 t (0.28 t).
- Engine: type – petrol two-stroke,
- ignition – electronic;
- number of cylinders – 1,
- volume – 0.20 l,
- cooling option – forced air,
- power – 11.0 l. With. (12.5 hp),
- carburetor - K-36G,
- fuel – a mixture of gasoline and oil (1/33).
- base – 1.78 m,
- type – mechanical,
- weight – 0.24 t,
Photo report: Disassembling the rear gearbox of the “Ant” scooter
The gearbox that we are going to disassemble today had been lying in a barn for several years and was found there by pure chance. It would be a pity to throw it away, so it was decided to disassemble it and, if necessary, repair it, for further use as the basis of a homemade walk-behind tractor - no more, no less! Moreover, I have a practically new engine from SZD, which would be an excellent match for this gearbox.
Unfortunately, the technical condition of this gearbox was unknown; during the first inspection, some details became clear: The output shafts of the axle shafts did not rotate, nor did the drive sprocket... Most likely, the gearbox simply “caught a wedge.” Therefore, they removed him and threw him into a barn where he lay for many years...
We clean the housing from dirt, remove all excess, after removing the drive sprocket it turned out that the input shaft bearing had crumbled.
We unscrew the bolts holding the gearbox housing together, take a hair dryer, heat the housing evenly on all sides with a hairdryer, then take a wooden mallet and tap the housing until it separates into two halves.
So the cause of the “wedge” was found - a crumbling input shaft bearing, but these are still “flowers”. During operation of the gearbox, the bearing balls fell between the gears, which led to serious damage to the teeth, and this is serious... Such gears will have to be replaced with new ones.
The damage to the teeth of the input shaft turned out to be the most significant.
Damage to the idler gear teeth.
Crack on the outer race of the bearing.
Unbend the locking plates and unscrew the bolts that tighten the differential housing cups, remove the gears.
Separate the differential cups.
Remove the locking pin.
Using a special puller, remove the retaining ring and remove the axle shaft from the cup.
The differential parts passed the test “excellently”, the gear teeth are intact without signs of wear, cracks, wear - as expected. The permissible wear of rubbing surfaces does not exceed 0.1mm.
Source
Photo report Conversion of Ant scooter on magneto
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I just finished overhauling the Ant engine and decided to write a short report on installing a magneto. Of course, the engine had to be half charged with spare parts made by no one. I suspect that the counterfeit goods with which I had to tinker for the last two days are being produced in some garage in Rostov-on-Don, or that the local workers are secretly making this nonsense at the factory. In any case, according to my information, traders bring this disgusting stuff from Rostov.
The engine to which I have devoted the last two days has already been converted to a magneto. Plus, there was another “Ant” in my yard, also converted by someone to use a magneto, but the store spacer to which the magneto is attached was “pinned” from it at one time... I had to buy a new spacer and the owner at the same time bought a coupling . I don’t know why he bought it - I didn’t ask him for it. The old one was in good condition. Well, since I bought it, we’ll install it.
The feasibility of installing a magneto
It’s none of my business, of course, but I have an extremely negative attitude towards this kind of collective farm tuning. Moreover, the magneto does not solve the problem with the reliability of the standard ignition system, but only replaces it with another problem. And this, in my opinion, is complete stupidity: convert the engine to a magneto, and then suffer even more with it...
Yes, the dyno starter is not an ideal device. Which also needs to be constantly monitored and, if necessary, serviced. So what? Well, I cleaned the collector and breaker contacts at the beginning of the season and that’s it. Are there fewer problems with the magneto? More than a hundred times!
- Firstly, due to the fact that the rubber coupling constantly breaks, the ignition timing is lost, and this entails detonation, loss of power, overheating and increased fuel consumption.
- Secondly, after installing the magneto, they usually stop monitoring the dyno starter, deprive it of its battery, and it eventually dies completely... Accordingly, the on-board network of the scooter is deprived of its power source. And this means that “there is no light - there will be no cinema”...
- Thirdly, due to the fact that this whole alteration is a complete collective farm - the axes in which the magneto rotor and the dynostarter rotate diverge within significant limits. And this leads to the fact that the parts of these two devices begin to work with a large axial misalignment relative to each other, which is why the magneto’s output shaft of the rotor constantly breaks off and its support bearings fall apart.
- Fourthly, the magneto was not initially designed for long-term operation, much less to work with such a horse-like misalignment along the axes, which leads to an increased radial load on the rotor, which is not typical for a magneto.
- Fourthly, a magneto is very expensive - plus you need to buy a spacer and a coupling.
We buy a spacer at the nearest store (it costs 450 rubles), a coupling (100 rubles) and a magneto (used from 1500 and above...).
Installation
We screw the coupling to the dynostarter rotor directly on top of the fan. The option of fastening the coupling with bolts in a hidden way, in my opinion, looks more preferable.
Than the option with regular bolts.
We break out the protective grille from the cooling volute.
Using a round file, we align the snail from the inside so that the spacer fits into it. We insert the spacer into the volute, mark the holes along the spacer mounting eyes. We drill holes and cut M6 threads into them, the main step.
We install the magneto and voila!
What is a gearbox?
The Ant gearbox is a special mechanism that transmits and converts angular velocity into one or more mechanical gears.
- cylinder (excellent reliability and high degree of performance, standardly applicable for transmissions and conversions of enormous power);
- globoid (high gear ratio, not very high efficiency, excessive heat generation);
- wave (has a reduced efficiency when compared with cylinder);
- spiral (very high load capacity, low weight, and size proportional to mass);
- combined (combines many gears, has an optimal cost, good technical components and a relatively small size).
The standard housing of this device is cast. Very often it is cast from high quality cast iron, in rare cases from steel. If it is necessary for the product to be as light as possible, then a material is used that melts quite easily. At the base of the case there are special “ears”, by which the device is attached to the base.
To prevent oil from leaking, a seal (oil seal) is installed at the shaft output, which prevents oil leakage.
To prevent an increase in internal pressure in the gearbox, it has unusual design features. It is they who do not allow the pressure inside the device to increase during heating of the device.
Assembly
I bought this main bearing. It seems to be our production. There are Chinese analogues in stores - they are more expensive, but I don’t know what their quality is... I try to buy something that may not be of such super-duper quality, but at least one that has been proven over the years.
The quality of production is such that there is essentially nothing to complain about. The price is quite reasonable - 350 rubles.
We press the inner race of the main bearing onto the right crankshaft journal. External - screw the stator flange of the dynostarter and press it into the crankcase until it rests against the flange.
We install the oil seal, retaining ring and main bearing into the left half of the crankcase. I'm installing a new main bearing. It is closed, but it doesn’t matter: we open it, wash out the factory grease and install it in the crankcase.
Lubricate all bearings and working edges of oil seals with clean engine oil. And very carefully, so as not to accidentally wrap the edge of the oil seal - insert the crankshaft into the left half of the crankcase, assemble the gearbox and knock out the crankcase guides by 5-6mm.
We degrease the crankcase connector, install a new gasket and install the second half of the crankcase.
We tighten the bolts and immediately, so that nothing gets into the crankcase, install the piston. I'm installing a new piston, cylinder head and reed valve body. The piston one, like everything else, is of no particular origin - most likely Rostov, but clearly not Chinese. I didn’t want to get involved with this counterfeit, but the owner didn’t want to wait until they bore the cylinder and put a liner in the cylinder head and insisted on buying it. You see the prices for spare parts - it’s up to you to decide whether to contact this new product or not.
We install the second main bearing into the crankcase and secure it with a retaining ring.
We adjust and assemble the clutch mechanism.
We install the manual start mechanism and close the whole thing with a standard lid.
How to disassemble?
The gearbox itself is removed from the Ant in a certain sequence. It needs to be disassembled if its operating functions are no longer satisfactory during operation. Sometimes it happens that when it breaks, it is sent to a landfill. But this is fundamentally wrong. This device can almost always be repaired, and it will continue to function and serve for quite a long period. Also, the “Ant” scooter is currently a rarity, and spare parts for it are extremely difficult to find. Therefore, there is no need to “throw away” them in vain.
- The first step is to remove the gearbox from the Ant without damaging it. Then clean the body from contamination and remove all excess.
- Next, you need to unscrew the bolts that tighten the body of the product, and warm up the entire device with a hair dryer. After this, you need to knock on the body with a wooden hammer. This is done until it is divided into 2 parts.
- The next step is to remove all the gears. To do this, you will need to bend the special plates and unscrew all the bolts that hold the body halves together. Then these body bowls are separated, and the corkscrew pin itself is removed. Next the wheel axle is removed. Then the retaining ring and the axle shaft are removed from the housing half.
The device itself is dismantled and mounted on a scooter quite simply, there are almost no problems.
Disassembling the gearbox will also not bring unnecessary trouble. But assembly will also require increased attention; you need to carefully assemble everything, not miss anything or confuse anything. Gears are made of high strength steel (alloy steel), so they very rarely become unusable or deformed. The main problem in most cases lies in the bearings. Therefore, regular and careful attention to these parts is required, in particular to elements such as oil seals.
Motor scooter repair Ant
Before starting repairs, you need to buy all the necessary spare parts and tools. Of course, you first need to diagnose the device in order to understand what the real problem is.
It is also necessary to take into account a few tips on how to change certain spare parts:
- If you want to change a tube or tire, you don’t need to bead the wheel at all. It is enough just to unscrew all the bolts securing it.
- The wheel begins to spin thanks to a roller chain running through the gearbox. At the same time, the rear suspension is completely independent.
- The gearbox can be easily removed without any additional tools, because it is located in the very center of the scooter.
Repair is accompanied by the following basic actions:
- drain the oil from the engine, then remove the engine and place it on some flat surface;
- remove the cooling casings and dynastrater;
- remove the final drive sprocket;
- loosen the clutch cover from the bolts and remove it;
- remove several clutch discs;
- after this it will be possible to easily remove the basket along with the chain and sprocket, the washer and the bushing;
- to disconnect the cylinder head, you need to unscrew the four washers that secure it; if there are noticeable burrs on the cylinder mirror, then it should be sharpened;
- remove the cylinder, remove the piston pin ring using pliers;
- unscrew the crankcase tightening bolts; an impact screwdriver can help, which is very useful in such cases;
- turn the engine to the disassembled side, gently hit it with a mallet until the crankcase separates into two equal halves;
- lay the engine straight, using a mallet, carefully knock out the driveshaft;
- After this, access to the bearings and seals appears.
Build errors
In most cases, the right main bearing of the crankshaft fails due to an assembly error almost in the first season after repair. The engine that we are now repairing is no exception. The bearing has practically crumbled and in any case needs to be replaced with a new one.
The mistake is that when installing the flange on which the dynostarter stator is attached, the oil channel through which lubricant flows to the main bearing and oil seal is sealed.
To ensure that the main bearing lasts at least several seasons, cut the gasket under the flange a little along the contour of the oil channel and when you put the flange in place, do not smear anything with sealant there.
And one more thing: to avoid self-unscrewing of the bolts securing the dynostarter stator flange to the crankcase, and they come loose very often, apply a little thread locker to the threads. If possible, use a medium-strength fixative - “blue”.
How not to make a mistake when choosing a gearbox?
When choosing this device, it is worth considering the work it will perform. Both its reliability and performance, as well as its operational period, will depend on this. If you make a mistake when choosing a device, you can “kill” the gearbox ahead of time. It is advisable to entrust the choice to qualified specialists. They will make all the calculations and advise you on the best option for the task at hand.
But there is not always a chance to get advice from an experienced specialist. In this case, you need to take the initiative into your own hands. The first step is to create the kinematics of the drive. It will tell you what type of gearbox is required for the selected system.
To determine the subordinate number, use the formula:
In this formula, ninput means the number of revolutions that the input shaft has, that is, it shows the engine speed in 1 minute. The noutput parameter means the required number of revolutions that the output shaft needs (also revolutions per minute).
Having made the calculations, the resulting transmission value will need to be compared with the values of the standard series for all types of gearbox. It is important not to forget that the resulting calculation is not exact, it is only approximate. When choosing an electric motor whose shaft rotates at a frequency not exceeding 1500 revolutions per minute, you should take into account the technical characteristics of the electric motor or mechanism itself, and then carry out an analysis and carefully select.
Spare parts price
Despite the fact that the production of the device stopped long ago, you can still find new spare parts for it that are produced by the industry. Some parts are imported, some come assembled. Supplied in sets:
- Clutch discs.
- Gaskets for power plant and gearbox.
- Nuts.
- Pipes.
- Levers.
The necessary parts can be found on the Internet using store catalogs. Prices for spare parts for the Ant scooter are fair. Here are some examples:
- Clutch disc – 400 rub.
- Kickstarter shaft – 1100 rub.
- Front shock absorber – 1600 rub.
- Gearbox seals – 100 RUR.
- Piston – 2500 rub.
- Gearbox – 14,000 rub.
- Wheel hub – 2000 rub.
Judging by the prices, the device is more than cheap to repair. This is an important operational property for people in rural areas.
In terms of tuning the Soviet Ant vehicle, the owners can’t think of anything. After all, these are often tech-savvy people who like to spend time in the garage. Several directions can be distinguished:
- Weight loss.
To do this, you will need to remove “extra” equipment. This includes body kit in the form of wings, hood and fairings, as well as all electrical equipment. To transport goods around the village in the summer, all this is unlikely to be needed. - Increased output from the power plant
. To do this, cut off the dynostarter shaft. The operation will add power and dynamism. The recoil during starting is leveled by trimming the crankshaft. - Installation of other wheels.
Front 4.5 - 9, and rear 7 - 10. Cross-country ability and speed will increase. - Improvement of the piston group .
You can buy a piston with three rings and make an additional window in the cylinder to supply the fuel mixture. - Magneto and increasing the efficiency of the cooling system
are additional tuning.
The main task when tuning is to increase reliability and less tinkering with details due to breakdowns.
In terms of engine tuning, some owners took radical measures and installed a Lifan engine (Lifan 188f), which has a volume of 400 cubic meters, on the Ant scooter. cm. And its power is 13 hp. A distinctive feature of this assembly is the variator and centrifugal clutch.
A centrifugal clutch is not the best option for trucks, since when driving on rough terrain on a loaded scooter at low speeds, it may slip. And this incapacitates him.
What modifications of the “Ant” scooter are there in the video:
Electrical circuit of the Ant scooter
Ant scooters are cargo versions of the Soviet retro scooters Tula, Tulitsa and Tourist. Despite the huge number of modifications, the electrical circuit of the Ant scooter fits almost all mopeds of the Tula Machine-Building Plant.
In this publication we will look at the wiring diagrams for Ant scooters, models TG-200 and 2M, as well as their modifications.
Electrical circuit of the motor scooter Ant TG 200
The Ant TG 200 is based on its passenger car predecessor, the Tula T-200. The wiring diagram does not have complex components and is suitable for analogues of the Ant TG 200 scooter: TG-200F, TG-200I, TGA 200, TGA 200-01.
Download the electrical diagram of the Ant TG 200 scooter:
- Direction indicators
- Scooter battery
- Speedometer
- Speedometer backlight
- Spark plug
- Ignition coil
- Capacitor
- High beam and horn buttons
- Front side lights
- Low and high beam headlight
- Turn signal switch
- Sound signal
- Turn signal relay
- Switch
- Side light switch
- Battery charging indicator
- Neutral indicator
- Neutral sensor
- Clutch
- Scooter engine starter
- Breaker
- Egnition lock
- Fuse
- Brake light switch
- Relay regulator
- Switch block
- Brake light
- Tail light
Download the diagram
Pros and cons of helical gearbox
This device has the following advantages:
- very high level of efficiency (up to 98%), and it is extremely economical;
- transmitting high power without losing it;
- very high kinematic accuracy (much higher than that of a globoid, i.e. worm);
- despite the high efficiency, the case does not heat up much, and at the same time energy transfers from the sender to the recipient with almost no losses;
- models perform well under shock loads;
- very high reliability, can continuously operate for at least 25 thousand hours;
- the shaft itself can be rotated.
But, despite the advantages, there are also disadvantages:
- in order to increase the gear ratio, the number of steps should be increased, this will lead to a significant increase in size;
- the noise threshold is very high (this device is much noisier than other modifications);
- in some cases, self-braking is required, but this type of gearbox does not provide it, so an additional device must be installed.
