DIY ant quad bike drawings

Based on the three-wheeled scooter "Ant" you can assemble a full-fledged ATV. These two types of motorcycles have relatively similar characteristics.

The only significant difference is the volume of the gas tank, as well as engine power. The Ant engine is equipped with a multi-disc clutch located in an oil bath. Gasoline is supplied by gravity, and a chain drive is also installed. The engine of this scooter is single-cylinder and has a power of 11 hp. With. The gearbox is four-speed, and the drive is supplied to the rear wheels. The gas tank has a volume of 12 liters, and the average gasoline consumption is about 7 liters per 100 km.

This allows you to assemble an ATV from Ant, which will have characteristics no worse than the factory models .

First you need to prepare the necessary parts and components. Most of them come from a three-wheel scooter, but some parts will need to be purchased or taken from a car.

The tool set includes an angle grinder, a welding machine, and a set of hand tools . To assemble an ATV from “Ant” with your own hands, you will need to work out the drawings yourself. You need to create a diagram with an accurate description of all components, thinking through every detail.

Stages of assembling an ATV

To create a homemade ATV with your own hands, you need to go through 9 stages of work step by step:

Acquisition and preparation of everything necessary;
Welding (alteration) of the frame;
Installation of suspensions, brakes, chassis, shock absorbers, wheels;
Installation of engine, gearbox, drive assembly;
Installation of the fuel system;
Installation of electrical equipment - turn signals, headlights, dashboard, battery;
Case manufacturing;
Priming, sanding and painting the body, (if desired) sophisticated custom tuning;
Installation of the body and seat.

After the final stage, the finished miracle of home-made equipment will need to be thoroughly tested, gradually making road (and off-road) conditions more difficult.

Names and essence of the main stages of creating an ATV

Construction of the supporting frame. Usually, when creating homemade ATVs, photos of samples of which are presented in the article, the frame is made of steel pipes and a metal profile. Often, the frame of an old motorcycle sitting idle in the garage is used as a supporting structure, to which a new supporting base is welded.

Do-it-yourself Ant scooter buggy

Dear visitors to the site “ Homemade Friend”, today we will look at step-by-step photos of the assembly of a homemade buggy with components and assemblies of the Domestic cargo scooter “Ant”. Author: Dr 194 on the DRIVE2 website published his Buggy assembled from spare parts from Ant and the Domestic Automotive Industry, a donor was originally purchased for the project and it turned out to be an old motor scooter bought from Grandfather from a neighboring village. The rear part was completely cut off (gearbox, axle shafts, wheels, shock absorbers) without any structural changes built into the back of the buggy. The front suspension, namely the beam, and the wheels were borrowed from the NIVA car, although the author had to shorten it to fit the width of the ant track.

The frame is welded from professional pipes of the following dimensions 40 x 40 x 20 mm, in total 8 pieces were purchased, 6 m each, as well as a profile 50 x 50 mm 6 m 1 piece, gussets 90 mm. Brake discs from Niva were put on the ant's hubs, thereby creating an adapter plate for mounting a car wheel with a radius of 16 R (low-profile bridgestone)

NIVA steering, Ant scooter engine after repair and replacement of rings.

And so, let's look at the design features of the buggy in more detail.

Materials

Engine and gearbox of cargo scooter "Ant"
front suspension "NIVA"
rear suspension "Ant"
professional pipe 40x40x20 mm 50x50 mm
gusset 90 mm
wheels with low-profile tires R-16 (breachstone)
paint, stickers

Tools

welding machine
angle grinder
drill
set of wrenches
plumbing and measuring tools
skillful hands

Step-by-step photos of assembling a buggy with your own hands.

Front suspension from the Domestic car "NIVA" Donor old cargo scooter "Ant"

The frame is welded from a profile 50x50 and 40x40x20 mm

Rear part (gearbox, axle shafts, shock absorbers) Ant.

The front beam was shortened to match the ant track. Before installation, the engine had to be disassembled and the rings and gasket replaced.

A buggy assembled from domestic components and assemblies is more repairable than a buggy assembled from spare parts from foreign cars, and the cost is much lower)

Frame

Creating a case is one of the difficult stages. Suitable materials for this are fiberglass or fiberglass. Sheet metal can also be used, but an artificial body kit will weigh less.

First, a “blank” of the body is cut out of pieces of foam plastic, for which you will need to develop a preliminary drawing. Fiberglass is applied to the prepared form. There will be several layers, so metal fasteners are installed between them for subsequent fixation of the new body kit to the frame. To ensure that each layer is properly bonded to each other, they are additionally coated with epoxy resin. The body needs to be thoroughly dried, and then primed and painted.

After installing all components and connecting the systems, you need to check the functionality and run the vehicle, gradually increasing the load.

Homemade ATV based on Oka and VAZ units

We present the ATV of our regular author S. Pletnev from the city of Ocher, Perm Territory. The next machine he built testifies to the increased design level and professional skills of its creator. However, judge for yourself.

A year of work of 3-4 hours after work and on weekends - and the new car was ready for testing, only minor (and I would say pleasant) modifications remained: connecting lighting equipment, installing an ignition switch, rear-view mirrors and other little things.

DIY Oka ATV

The power unit for my homemade ATV was the engine from the Oka car - 32-horsepower, two-cylinder, four-stroke, liquid cooled. And if its power was often not enough for a car, then for an ATV it should have been more than enough.

The machine frame is spatial, welded. Its main elements (two pairs of side members: upper and lower) are made of round pipes of the VGP-25 type (water and gas pipes with a diameter of 25 mm and a wall thickness of 3.2 mm), auxiliary (struts, cross members, etc.) - from VGT-20. The spars are bent: the lower ones are in the horizontal plane, the upper ones are in the vertical plane. I bent the pipes on a pipe bender, “cold”. Eyes (pairs of ears) for attaching suspension arms and shock absorbers were welded to the frame immediately, and various brackets were welded as components and assemblies were installed (in “place”).

The transmission of the all-terrain vehicle is unique. Although the car is all-wheel drive, it does not have a transfer case. As you know, in the Oka the engine is located transversely, while on an ATV it is installed lengthwise. This made it possible to direct the output shafts from the gearbox (Gearbox) not to the right and left wheels (as in a car), but to the front and rear axles. It’s just that the power unit itself, interlocked with the clutch “basket” and gearbox, had to be shifted slightly to the left relative to the longitudinal plane of symmetry in order to reduce the horizontal angle of the longitudinal articulated shafts of the transmission. Well, their vertical angles turned out to be insignificant.

The transmission is assembled from units of various domestic cars, mainly VAZ models. But ready-made industrial units also had to be modified. For example, from the gearbox (from Oka), to ensure optimal (reduced) speed and increase torque, I removed the main gear pair and replaced it with a chain drive. The gearshift rod was also made different - elongated, with outlets on both sides of the gearbox. The rod can be locked in three positions: to engage 1st and 2nd gears, 3rd and 4th and reverse. The lever for selecting these positions is on the right side, and the gear shift lever is on the left.

The inter-wheel gearboxes are from the rear axles of the VAZ “classics”, only their axle shafts along with the “stockings” were removed and replaced with shafts with CV joints from front-wheel drive models. CV joints are also used as hinges in the remaining intermediate shafts of the transmission.

There are no low gears or differential locks.

The steering is motorcycle type (lever and shaft) at the top and automobile type (with tie rods) at the bottom, only simplified, without a steering mechanism, with one bipod. At first I used the steering wheel from a Minsk motorcycle, with a pipe diameter of 22 mm, but it turned out to be a little thin. Later I found and installed it from a Ural motorcycle. The steering shaft is made of a pipe with a diameter of 20 mm and a wall thickness of 2.8 mm. It has a travel stop at the lower end. At the bottom, the shaft rests on a thrust bearing, and in the middle part it rotates in a detachable nylon bracket-sleeve.

The bipod is made of 8 mm thick steel sheet in a shape resembling the letter “T”. At the edge of the “rack” there is a hole with a diameter of 20 mm - the steering shaft is inserted and welded into it, and in the ears there are conical holes for the ball ends of the tie rods. These holes are reinforced with suitable welded washers. The bipod ears are bent down slightly so that they are almost parallel to the rods.

The wheels of the ATV are 15-inch, from a Chevrolet Niva car. Tires with the appropriate landing diameter dimensions 205/70 (width/height as a percentage of the width) with an off-road tread pattern. The wheel running diameter is about 660 mm.

The wheel suspensions are independent, on two triangular wishbones each (upper and lower) with shock absorbers from the Oka car (front). The levers are welded from round pipes of the VGP-20 type. Elastic elements (springs) and shock absorbers are from the Oka

"(rear). Wheel hubs and steering knuckles are welded into the wheel ends of the front arms - from a VAZ-2109 car. Both had to be modified. I installed studs for Niva wheels in the hubs, and homemade swing arms in the front knuckles.

The muffler is homemade, two-section. To protect the body kit from temperature warping, I covered it with a remote cover, and insulated the inlet pipe with asbestos.

Frame

You can assemble the frame from new pipes or use an old structure. If you plan to make the base from scratch, you should use pipes with a wall thickness of 2.5 - 3 mm.

First, the frame is assembled by spot welding and then the geometry is checked. If the geometry is in order, then the seams are completely welded. You will immediately need to attach the shock absorber lugs to the frame, as well as the levers. The brackets can be welded later, when components and mechanisms are installed on the frame.

To reconstruct a finished scooter frame, you need to remove all components from it. Pipes are built onto the bare frame from which the rear part is removed. After this, you can weld brackets and other small parts to install the corresponding components and assemblies. You will need to move the racks under the saddle 40-45 cm.

trunk structures are created from sheet metal , which also need to be welded to the frame. The metal parts of the structure must be primed and painted.

DIY ATV body kit

Do-it-yourself ATV body kit - fiberglass. I glued it in for the first time, and therefore first studied the recommendations for performing the relevant work. But as it turned out, this process is painstaking, although the result is worth it.

First, I made the required contours of the body kit from a square steel pipe with a cross-section of 10x10x1 mm. Fortunately, this pipe bends easily even with your hands over your knee. The contour was welded to the frame using jumpers from the same pipe, in places where later (after gluing the body kit) the “tacks” could be easily cut off. Then I bent “wings” from hardboard (fibreboard) and fixed them with self-tapping screws to the contour and jumpers. Where the bend turned out to be steep, I attached separate strips of the same hardboard. The front end was made with polystyrene foam purchased at a hardware store. It was possible to use polystyrene foam or the same polystyrene foam, but polystyrene foam turned out to be a more suitable material - it cuts well with a sharp thin knife. I glued individual elements from it into the overall structure on polyurethane foam.

ATVs designed on the basis of the Ural motorcycle

At the moment, several decades ago, the popular domestic Urals in Russia have been replaced by much more nimble and economical foreign models. In this regard, many people have their recent best “friend” standing idle and rotting in their garages. But not a single Russian person is able to allow good things to go to waste. Therefore, “Urals” are increasingly used to create a type of transport that is relatively new for Russian people. This motorcycle is unanimously recognized by folk craftsmen as the optimal basis for creating an ATV. Homemade ATVs made from it are an order of magnitude more economical and have greater draft power than their factory-made counterparts.

DIY ATV frame drawings

The false tank has a complex shape. It was not possible to bend it out of hardboard. Therefore, having wrapped the engine with plastic film, I began to fill the space intended for it with layers of polyurethane foam. After each layer, drying is mandatory, otherwise the thick volume of foam may not dry out inside. Filled until the layers went beyond the contour. Finally, after the foam had completely dried, I began to draw out the desired shape with a knife. The edges were smoothed with coarse sandpaper.

Part of the Oka dashboard was used under the instrument panel. I secured it to the blank also using polyurethane foam. Since the foam is large-porous, the pores were filled with gypsum and then processed. When the shape of the blank began to correspond to the intended design and its surface became more or less smooth, I coated the blank with PF-115 paint. Since I was not going to make a matrix for gluing the body kit on the block, but immediately glued the body kit on it, followed by finishing the surface to an ideal state, putting plaster and painting the block could be neglected.

So, the blockhead is ready and to glue a high-quality product, it was required: 10 kg of epoxy resin, 1 kg of plasticizer for it and 1 kg of hardener, 15 linear meters of thin fiberglass fabric, 5 m of glass mat, brushes, gloves. It is highly advisable to wear breathing protection. And the more expensive they are, the more reliable they are. But, as you know, you can’t buy experience, so I gained it in the process of work.

I used transparent tape as a separating layer between the block and the product. The whole idiot covered it with stripes carefully, without any omissions. It only took 1.5 rolls of wide tape.

I diluted the resin in 200 - 300 grams with a hardener and plasticizer. I used measuring cups and syringes, which is not very convenient. Before this, I cut strips of fiberglass in such sizes that large canvases would lie on flat surfaces, and on uneven surfaces, pieces of fabric could repeat them without making folds. By the way, fiberglass stretches moderately along the diagonal of the weaves, “flowing around” the desired shape.

First, I thickly coated one area of the blockhead with epoxy resin, placed fiberglass on it and impregnated the top with resin again. The adjacent piece of fabric was glued using the same technology with an overlap of 3 - 5 cm. We had to work quickly - the resin sets quite quickly, and the higher its temperature, the faster. Yes, I also heated the resin a little near a powerful lighting lamp for better fluidity.

After covering the blockhead with fiberglass in one layer, I began to cover it with glass mat. The fiberglass mat I got was quite thick, and it turned out to be good for gaining the thickness of the product. But it does not hug uneven surfaces, so I used it only on flat (or slightly sloping) surfaces and without overlap. Impregnation with resin was carried out in the same way as when working with fiberglass. Just keep in mind that it takes a lot of resin to impregnate glass mat, so you need to dilute it more. After gluing the glass mat, uneven surfaces were glued in several layers with cloth. Each subsequent layer was applied after the previous one had set a little, so that the resin would not leak. And since the process of gluing the body kit took more than one day, after a day of break it was necessary to “roughen” the surface with coarse sandpaper and degrease it - after all, the resin cures completely during this time. The final layers on top of the mat were again covered with fiberglass, and not even just one layer.

Since I needed the surface, as they say, the smoother the better, and I didn’t have enough experience, dips and holes still remained - I filled them with resin alone, and with pieces of fiberglass applied there. There wasn't enough resin. I already bought more at the hardware store, in boxes. I liked working with it more because it was already packaged, and all I had to do was mix the ingredients. And it dried faster than the one purchased from the company.

After the glued body kit had completely dried, I made cuts in it, dividing the product into three parts: rear fenders and rear, false tank with seat, front fenders and front end. Carefully, slightly prying and pulling with his hands while picking, he separated the product piece by piece without much effort from the blockhead.

Now, having removed the parts, I began to process them separately, bringing them to the desired result. In general, ordinary preparatory and painting work using “all” technology: first, rough grinding with the removal of large bulges of resin and fiberglass; then painstakingly filling the recesses with putty and fiberglass; then grinding the outer surface and priming with a plasticizer. Finally - metallic painting and varnish with a plasticizer.

The blockhead also carefully cut it off and put it in the far corner - just in case. The body kit was attached to specially made and welded “in place” mounts on the frame.

Finally, I welded front and rear luggage racks from thin-walled steel pipes with an outer diameter of 20 mm, and in addition to them, “kangaroo bars” that replaced the bumpers.

Preparation for work, tools and equipment

First of all, you need to carefully consider when, where and for what purposes the future ATV will be used - hunting and fishing, motorcycling in nature, transporting goods, etc. It is on this basis that you need to make a choice of a “donor” vehicle, deciding how powerful the engine is needed, what kind of suspension is suitable, what kind of trunk, etc.

The suspensions, like the steering system, must be taken from the car. On the front it is necessary to provide space for installing the gearbox.

Installing an all-wheel drive model requires not only special skills of the craftsman, but also additional labor costs. The alternative is to buy a ready-made all-wheel drive unit - it costs money.

Frame

Making the body is far from the simplest stage of the story called “how to assemble an ATV with your own hands.” Suitable materials are fiberglass and fiberglass; it is easier to make a body kit from the second.

First, you need to draw, cut and construct a “blank” of the body from pieces of durable foam plastic, glued or fastened with polyurethane foam. Then apply several layers of fiberglass on it, coating each with epoxy resin and inserting metal fasteners between them to attach the body to the frame. In conclusion, dry the body thoroughly, then prime, sand and paint.

Characteristics of the Ant motorcycle

The dimensions of the Ant are 2680 mm length, 125 mm width and 1075 mm height, the motorcycle base is 1775 mm, ground clearance is 115 mm. The scooters are equipped with an engine with a multi-plate clutch in an oil bath, a chain drive, and the fuel is supplied by gravity. The engine is single-cylinder with a volume of 199 cubic centimeters. Since according to the law it is necessary to register all vehicles with an engine capacity exceeding 50 cubic centimeters, you will need to immediately take care of obtaining all the necessary documentation for the vehicle.

The engine power of the Ant is 11 horsepower at 5000 rpm. The scooters have a four-speed gearbox and drive to the rear wheels - an oscillating shaft with a cardan joint. The rear suspension is independent on wishbones, the front suspension is wishbone. Average fuel consumption is 6-7 liters per 100 km, with a gas tank volume of 12 liters. The future ATV will have approximately the same characteristics.

The photo shows an ATV from Ant, blooming.ucoz.ru

Engine

The Ant's lightweight engine makes the ATV maneuverable and controllable, but it is not suitable for transporting cargo. This all-terrain vehicle can be pulled out of the hole almost manually, thanks to its lightweight engine.

It is worth considering that older scooter engines did not have a cooling system , so it is recommended to add it yourself. You can remove this system, for example, from a VAZ engine.

ATV from an Ant scooter with a Lifan engine and a safari variator.

Frame and engine

The first stage is a small alteration of the frame - reinstallation of the seatposts, welding of a trunk made of thin-walled pipes and alteration of the front part of the frame, followed by the installation of suspensions, axles and wheels on the frame. If it is not possible to use independent suspension with a differential, then the wheels can simply be mounted on an axle with a sprocket. The rear suspension must be installed “classic” along with the knuckles, preferably used ones, since the new knuckles are quite rigid and may be somewhat uncomfortable to use at first. When securing the engine (after screwing it to the frame), it is necessary to connect the engine shaft with a transmission; as a rule, a conventional chain drive is used.

Suspension

The scooter suspension can be used as the front or rear suspension of an ATV. The choice is made by the master himself, but the first option is preferable.

The rear suspension can be done in two ways:

Take the rear axle from an old car, and then shorten it to fit the dimensions of the ATV. The disadvantage of this design is its significant weight.
Cardan-gear type design. A gearbox is mounted on the rear axle, to which the drive is supplied.

An ATV requires an independent suspension that will have high ground clearance. Its levers are fixed to the frame using bolts through silent blocks. The front suspension strut must be inclined, otherwise the ATV may roll over.