Almost just before leaving for permanent residence on another collective farm, an old acquaintance, whom I had not seen for 15 years, turned to me and asked me to overhaul the engine of his Ant. To be honest, I didn’t have much of a desire to get involved with this Soviet chatterbox, to say the least... But after thinking about it and playing out the situation in my head that I would have to sit in a new place for some time without my favorite job, I agreed and immediately began the repairs.
I will not go into the essence of the disassembly in particular within the framework of this article - I will only outline the main points and, based on my experience, I will try to describe the most common malfunctions and errors during repairs.
The engine had the following symptoms before being repaired:
- Bad start
- Oil leak
- Weak traction
- Increased noise during operation
- The winding lever did not return to its place
Preliminary diagnosis:
- Depressurization of the crank chamber, as well as wear of the seals
- Poor quality assembly
- The piston died
- Bearing wear
- Kickstarter return spring broke
Everything else, including the gearbox and clutch, did not cause any complaints during operation. However, first things first.
Before a major overhaul, I don’t wash the engines - I just drain the oil, pull it off the frame and get to work.
Removing and checking the piston (CPG)
Remove the cylinder head (cylinder head).
The cylinder head gasket held up well, as evidenced by the absence of oil leaks.
In the upper part of the cylinder opposite the exhaust window, we feel the groove with our finger. If it feels a clearly perceptible so-called “wave”, “step”, that is, a drop, then such a cylinder is no longer subject to further use. It needs to be either bored to repair size or bought a new one.
The wear can be easily felt in the place where the piston rings do not reach the end of the cylinder. In the place where the piston rings do not work, the nominal factory size is maintained, but in the place where they work, the metal wears out. That is why a transition is formed at the boundary of these two sections, which is larger the greater the wear of the cylinder.
In my case, as expected, the wear was clearly palpable and the cylinder mirror was covered in nicks and scratches.
A bunch of hay that blocked the flow of cooling air, in my opinion, did not increase the efficiency of the cooling system... How can you even drive like this???
The piston turned out to be burst and, moreover, according to the good old collective farm tradition, it was treated with sandpaper. As indicated by numerous risks on its surface.
After removing the clutch cover and removing the kickstarter shaft, the reason for the freezing of the winding lever was found - the return spring had burst in half.
The motor chain turned out to be stretched, but not critically.
Tulitsa-2. Parsing.
I have free weekends here over the next month. I decided that I could wait a long time for weather by the sea and that I needed to start doing at least something. Who remembers, I have a Soviet motor scooter Tulitsa 2, produced in 1987, lying around. Every time I see in Europe a huge amount of old equipment in excellent condition and, most importantly, on the move with frequent use. Immediately there is a desire to restore something of your own. In fact, I rather don’t like this Tulitsa outwardly. The previous model is much nicer, but this one has completed documents and is almost complete, so I’ll try to start restoring it and get my hands on it. For now I've taken up what I do best - dismantling a scooter
