Photo report: Adjusting the ignition of the Ant scooter, Tula

How to set the ignition to a magneto on an ant

VIDEO ON THE TOPIC: Setting the ignition on the ant correctly!
Moreover, the engine does not work in only two cases:. The work of any internal combustion engine is to convert the reciprocating motion of the piston into the rotational motion of the shaft. This transformation occurs with the help of the crank mechanism of the crankshaft. As in the picture below:.

Parts for installing a magneto on an Ant scooter: 1 magneto adapter, 2 attachment to the dynastarter rotor, 3 attachment to the magneto rotor. Filmed on the basis of Melitopol Professional Agrarian. Ant is a universal scooter, which is used by rural and urban residents as a means of transportation, a truck and even a tractor.

How to install a magneto on an Ant scooter. For a villager, “Ant” is everything: a motorcycle, a car, a tractor, and a truck. 8 he is indispensable on the farm. And what a shame it becomes when the batteries “die”. In rural areas there has never been an abundance of them, you can’t drive them into the city (and you can’t drive a scooter anyway!), and besides, there’s no guarantee that you’ll buy them.

And without a battery, the Ant becomes weaker than its biological brother, turning into a helpless paralytic. I had to approach the problem from the other side - abandon the battery altogether. This was done by installing a magneto on the scooter from the tractor launcher of the decommissioned Belarus.

To do this, it was necessary to make an adapter, attachments for the dynastarter rotors and a magneto. They are machined from steel and then hardened. Installation is carried out in the following sequence. Having removed the coupling from the rotor, it is replaced with a magneto rotor attachment. Then, instead of the breaker, cam base and cam removed from the dynastarter, a dynastarter attachment is installed.

The latter is fixed with the same screws that secured the base of the breaker. Three holes with a diameter of 7 mm are drilled in the fan cover, necessary for attaching the magneto adapter. The adapter itself is needed to strengthen the rather fragile cover. Be sure to place plain and split washers under the fastening nuts. The cover with the adapter is fixed in place.

Having installed the piston at a distance of 2.8-3.2 mm before TDC, “put” the magneto on the adapter so that the protrusion of its nozzle fits into the slot of the dynastarter rotor. Now, turning the magneto body, you should determine the moment of opening the contacts, and then, noting the position, mark the mounting holes. M6 thread is used. All that remains is to connect the high-voltage magneto wire to the spark plug cap, and connect the wire from the terminal on the housing to the ignition switch.

In the “Off” position, this wire should be shorted to ground; in the “On” position, it should be open. Long-term operation of a scooter with a magneto is successful. No problems starting either in summer or winter, the engine runs great. The dynastarter continues to generate electricity, which is more than enough for lighting and alarm systems.

In contrast to the method of installing a magneto on a scooter, proposed by A. Platonov (“Moto”, 1992, No. 1), I think that mine is much more convenient - you only need to make three simple parts instead of five complex ones. This will require less time and expense. In addition, at any time you can quickly return to the standard dynamo battery ignition system.

Parts for installing a magneto on an Ant scooter: 1 — magneto adapter; 2 — attachment to the dynastarter rotor; 3 — attachment to the magneto rotor.

Diagnostics of technical condition

How to adjust the ignition: early or late ignition

Diagnostics is carried out by performing the following procedure:

1. The first stage is connecting the high-voltage cable to the voltage terminal.
2. The second end of the cable is constantly held at a distance of about 0.5-0.7 centimeters from the device body.
3. Maintaining position near the wire. Next comes a sharp turn of the rotor in the direction of rotation. The spark should jump as a result of this movement; if everything is in order, the magneto is adjusted correctly. If there is no spark or is too weak, there is a high probability that the installation requires a malfunction check. If necessary, adjustments are made.

Common malfunctions and their repairs

Here are just a few of the most common problems magneto owners may encounter:

1. Failures during sparking. There are several reasons for this situation and ways to resolve the problem. Possible problems include: contacts burn, oxidize; the gap adjustment is violated; the lever cushion at the breaker is worn out; The capacitor element was broken. If an element fails, it is completely replaced. When the problem is in the gaps, they undergo additional adjustment. Contacts are also changed or completely cleaned. How to set up the magneto is described further.
2. Complete lack of spark. This often happens because the transformer wiring has broken, there has been a short to ground, or the insulating layer that supplies the high-voltage cable has broken through. If problems arise with the transformer, the unit must be replaced. You can eliminate the short circuit itself or change the cable when an insulation breakdown occurs.
3. A broken capacitor is the most likely cause of a spark that is too weak. In this case, the part must also be replaced.

Candle and armored wire

It is recommended to abandon the caps used for armored wires. It is better to use an alligator clip.

The armored wire itself also requires additional testing. This concerns two elements:

• Fastening in the mounting socket.
• Base for a candle.

Complete stripping of the wire from each end by 2 millimeters is an excellent reason for inspection and repair. You can check using a different armor wire instead of the one installed initially. If the spark plug is faulty, it is also replaced; the part is not repaired.

Capacitor

It is needed so that the contacts do not burn too much. It consists of two plates and insulation, the role of which is usually played by foil. Everything is rolled into one roll and placed inside the case. In some cases, if the housing is damaged, the capacitors can be adjusted using sandpaper

It is important that the structural parts do not overheat during operation. Adjusting the magneto after that won't help.

Sometimes it is recommended to install two capacitors at once, then the operation of the mechanisms will be more reliable and stable.

About breaker contacts

If they become faulty, the first recommendation is to clean the surface using a special flat abrasive plate. The work can be done without problems with a flat file with a fine notch. Cleaning with sandpaper or glass paper will not give the desired result. The contacts wear out too quickly, and in this case a flat surface cannot be obtained.

From time to time, contacts also require cleaning from plaque and adjusting the gaps between parts. The main thing is not to lose a single part during disassembly. The contact spring is subject to malfunction or straightened in the opposite direction.

Coil or transformer

It is easy to repair the tractor magneto for such parts. This same part of the engine rarely fails; it can operate uninterruptedly for a long time. If the part has become unusable, then it must be replaced with exactly the same, but working model.

Rotor

The main thing is that it does not crumble or break during operation. From time to time the rotor can become demagnetized. If the part really turns out to be damaged, then it is replaced. The main thing is not to forget to remove metal fragments, sometimes they remain inside the magneto housing. Bearings require separate inspection and lubrication.

Contactless ignition Ant, Tula (FULL set of BSZ Muravey 2.5)

How to correctly set the ignition on a VAZ 2106 with your own hands
ATTENTION: The manufacturer GUARANTEES the operation of the entire kit during initial installation. All equipment and its elements are 100% tested before shipping

It is extremely important to completely read the installation instructions, check for problems and short circuits in other electrical equipment, and use ONLY with a working battery. The warranty on consumables of the kit (switch, coil) is 14 days from the date of receipt

Although the commutator and coil have also been tested, it is impossible to guarantee a certain guaranteed period of their operation on an engine of this type, because They are designed by the factory for installation on 4T vehicle engines. If something does not work right away, then 99.9% the problem is due to incorrect installation, or damage caused by errors in the installation or operation of other equipment. During warranty service, all transportation costs for delivery of the kit to the service and back are paid by the buyer. You accept these terms and conditions upon purchase and agree to be bound by them. If you are not confident in your abilities or do not agree with the terms of the warranty, then please refrain from purchasing.

Contactless electronic ignition system Ant, Tula.

The optimal solution for high-quality engine operation is the use of so-called non-contact electronic ignition systems (BESZ).

The most important advantage of a contactless ignition system, compared to a contact one, is the supply of much more energy to the spark plug, which significantly increases the spark so necessary for fuel combustion. Thus, the combustion of the air-fuel mixture improves, which affects engine power.

No less important is the fact that the shape and stability of the pulses at all ranges of engine operation is significantly improved. This is achieved by using an optical sensor instead of a contact ignition system, which is needed to generate control pulses for the electronic switch. Thus, not only engine power and throttle response are improved, but fuel consumption is also reduced.

The third advantage and benefit of the contactless ignition system is its simplicity and low maintenance requirement. It needs to be configured once and that’s it. While the contact system is demanding in terms of maintenance and setup.

Composition of the contactless electronic ignition system kit Ant, Tula.

source

What to do if there is no spark on the walk-behind tractor?

Replacing the king pins on a UAZ (Patriot, Loaf) with your own hands: instructions with photos and videos

If after the tests it turns out that the spark has disappeared, then the cause of this breakdown must be sought in the main elements of the ignition system of the agricultural unit.

To do this you will need:

inspect the spark plug - it needs to be unscrewed using a special key; the spark plug may be completely dry - this indicates that fuel is not entering the engine cylinder, that is, the fuel pipes are clogged or the carburetor is malfunctioning; in some cases, the part turns out to be wet from gasoline and motor oil. The reasons for this are an excess of lubricant contained in the fuel, or its leakage from the engine oil sump directly into the cylinder. In this case, the operator must remove the spark plug and dry it thoroughly. After this, you need to dry the cylinder, intensively pull the starter cable several times on the engine with the spark plug turned out; Most often, due to the lack of proper and timely maintenance of agricultural machinery, a thick continuous layer of soot and dried resinous deposits forms on the spark plug of a walk-behind tractor.

To restore the candle, you need to carefully heat it with a lighter and wash off the remaining resin with clean gasoline. After this, the part will need to be dried and screwed into place.

If this does not help, then the spark plug needs to be replaced.

It is important to proceed with extreme caution when removing, cleaning and reinstalling the spark plug.

Any careless movement can damage the electrodes of the part, causing it to no longer generate a spark.

Electronic ignition of motor scooters “Ant” No. 2

How to set electronic ignition on Izh Jupiter 5

You need to remove the fan grille and the metal ring that secures the fan impeller.

The next step is to secure the modulator shutter with M4*6 mm screws in place of the eccentric.

The next step is to install the rubber washer from the kit. The washer is installed under the metal ring for fixing the fan impeller.

The next step is to install the fan grille in place.

Next, we attach the optical sensor to the fan grille with M4*10 mm screws from the kit.

Center the optical sensor.

Next, we connect the wiring according to the attached diagram from the kit.

For normal operation of the BSZ it is recommended:

Use only a high-voltage wire from a car (since the ends of motorcycle wires have a built-in resistance of 10-15 KOM, which is not suitable for BSZ).

The switch can be used from a VAZ 2108-09-99 car. Check the voltage in the network. It should not exceed 15 Volts, otherwise the switch will fail or the ignition will work unstably.

The ignition coil can be left original, but can be used from VAZ 2108-09-99 (the spark will become more powerful, which will lead to complete combustion of fuel and a decrease in smoke, + 10% thrust).

The capacitor should be removed; it will hinder the operation of the switch.

Setting up the optical sensor.

Adjust the piston 2-3 mm to top dead center. Loosen the sensor mounting screws. Place the sensor along the adjustment cutouts until the LED lights up, which is the moment of spark formation. Fix the sensor in this position with screws. Sparking occurs when the modulator shutter enters the optocoupler.

After setting up the sensor, place a mark on it and on the body with a marker, which will simplify installation and adjustment the next time it is removed.

The last step is to cover the sensor with a plug. The plug and rubber spacer protect the sensor from light, dust and moisture.

The sensor is protected from moisture, but prolonged contact with water is not advisable.

When driving through tall grass, grass and debris may get caught inside the grille, which can impede the sensor's operation.

Periodically check the optocoupler pair and wipe it from dust and dirt with a damp cloth. Do not use aggressive solutions for this.

1) Optical sensor.

2) Modulator curtain.

3) Sensor mounting screw M4*10 - 2 pcs.

4) Screw for fastening the modulator curtain M4*6 - 2 pcs.

The electrical circuit of the Ant scooter is quite simple and does not contain heavy components. It is used for three main tasks:

1. Ignition of the air-fuel mixture in the cylinder. Due to this action, the piston moves, transmitting torque to the flywheel.
2. Starting a cold and warm engine.
3. Supplying current to lighting fixtures and signal signs (turn signals, parking lights, brake lights).

Ant's electrical equipment is a system with one wire, and the second is the body of the moped itself. All equipment has excellent insulation, eliminating the possibility of short circuits and harm to the driver. Maintenance of electronics on a motorcycle consists only of regular cleaning of the terminals. However, to find the problem, you need to keep a tester at hand. He will accurately determine the problem that is preventing the operation of electrical equipment.

Attention! It is important!

Eccentric adjustment

To adjust the spark generation (current strength) of the magneto, you need to rotate the weakened eccentric (cam) relative to its shaft and achieve the highest current power.

Stand: the drill rotates, the end of the stripped armored wire is brought to the magneto body at a distance of 5 mm. If the current is insufficient or does not exist at all, now let’s proceed to adjusting the cam (aka eccentric). Stop the drill. The cam is secured to the shaft with one screw and washer in the center of the shaft.

Loosen the screw. By inserting a screwdriver into the grooves of the cam, we turn the cam relative to its axis on the shaft by approximately 1 mm clockwise. Secure the cam with a screw. Turn on the drill. We look at the spark. It should be at a distance of 5-7 mm from the body. Turn off the drill.

This procedure must be repeated until you get the best result. It takes me from 20 minutes to an hour to fully adjust the eccentric. But it's worth it! When the best result is achieved, on this mounted stand you can also adjust the current strength by adjusting the size of the contact gap and selecting a capacitor. Provided that the contacts are not burnt, even and smooth, and the capacitor and coil are working, the spark will be like lightning!

VKontakte group: https://vk.com/tmz_engine

Things went wrong

How to set the ignition on a VAZ 2106 yourself

Of course, the engine had to be half charged with spare parts made by no one. I suspect that the counterfeit goods with which I had to tinker for the last two days are being produced in some garage in Rostov-on-Don, or that the local workers are secretly making this nonsense at the factory. In any case, according to my information, traders bring this disgusting stuff from Rostov. The engine to which I have devoted the last two days has already been converted to a magneto. I don’t know why he bought it - I didn’t ask him for it. The old one was in good condition. Well, since I bought it, we’ll install it. It’s none of my business, of course, but I have an extremely negative attitude towards this kind of collective farm tuning.

Electrical circuit diagram of the Ant scooter

Hai! This wiring diagram of the Ant equipment will be useful to those who restore old Soviet scooters. On our website All about motorcycles, such biker mechanics will find many useful images, as well as texts with tips on tuning iron horses, etc.

This resource also provides news from the world of biker sporting events.

The famous domestic scooter has become a rarity these days. Only occasionally is he encountered on the endless roads of his great homeland. You can buy it for relatively little money. On this motorcycle site you can study the technical characteristics of this utility vehicle.

Explanations for the Ant Moto wiring diagram:

1) Direction indicators with bulbs.2) Battery (battery).3) Scooter speedometer.4) Speedometer dial backlight bulb.5) Motorcycle ignition system spark plug.6) Ignition system coil.7) Ignition system capacitor.8) Switching mechanism/ turning off the high beam and the sound signal. 9) Front parking light bulb. 10) Main lighting bulb (low/high beam). 11) Turn signal switch.

12) Sound signal playback device.

13) Scooter turn signal relay. 14) Switch. 15) Night light switch. 16) Generator operation identification indicator light. 17) Neutral transmission identification indicator indicator. 18) Identification mechanism for engaging neutral gear in the gearbox.19) Motorcycle clutch.20) Bike dynastarter.21) Interrupter for the ignition system of a Soviet scooter.22) Ignition system lock.23) Ignition system fuse.24) Stop switch/switch signal.25) Moto Ant relay-regulator.26) Switch block.27) Brake light bulb.

28) Rear marker lamp.

Contactless ignition Ant, Tula (FULL set of BSZ Muravey 2.5)

Topic of the section Homemade electronics, computer programs in the General Questions category; Hello everyone, I have an idea to install a spark ignition on my engine, I don’t have money to buy a specialized ignition, I want to make Forum Rules. Rules Advanced search. Forum General questions Homemade electronics, computer programs Electronic ignition circuit. Dear readers! Our articles talk about typical ways to resolve legal issues, but each case is unique. If you want to find out how to solve your particular problem, please use the online consultant form on the right or call the numbers provided on the website.

How to install a magneto on an Ant scooter. How to set magneto ignition on ant

History of models. Who's online? You are an Anonymous user. You can register by clicking here. Soviet scooters: Forum. Previous topic :: Next topic. Matroskin Interested Registered: Dec 16, Messages: Explain how to do this on your fingers, the instructions say about some kind of meter, etc.

To come back to the beginning. First, you need to write on what engine. Everything written below concerns Tula ones. If I'm not mistaken, the opening of the contacts should begin 2. If the ignition is normal: we hook a 12V light bulb with one end to ground, the other to the terminal of the coil to which the wire from the contacts goes, take an iron rod about 6 mm, about 10 cm long, unscrew the spark plug, stick the rod into hole, lightly resting on the piston, rotate the rotor counterclockwise until TDC, set TDC, put a notch on the rod with a needle file, pull out the rod, and put a second mark at a distance of 2.

Now we turn on the ignition, stick the rod back with the same side, and turn the rotor counterclockwise, when the SECOND risk mark that you made the 2nd time appears, it is at THIS moment that the light bulb that you connected to the coil should light up, if it lights up earlier or later, then loosen the screws and turn the ignition to the correct position. Well, it seems to be something like this on the fingers. Labuh wrote:. Now turn on the ignition, stick the rod back with the same side, and turn the rotor counterclockwise, when the SECOND mark appears, it is at THIS moment that the light bulb that you connected to the coil should light up, if it lights up earlier or later, then loosen the screws and turn the ignition , choosing the correct position.

Damn, how intricate! It’s all true, but in practice it practically doesn’t work! PLAY is inherent in this ignition. I usually adjust it while moving, achieving the best traction. In general, we have known about electronic ignition for a long time. We have written and rewritten a lot about this. Or do you mean a breaker? Matroskin wrote:. Andrey wrote:. Guys, I keep turning and turning the impeller, but the lamp is still on.

I closed the breaker with a screwdriver and it still lights up. Taxes in order. How should it stand, with the armor wire socket closer to the frame or vice versa? Or from the coil directly to the breaker? Do not swear! A person turns on the ignition for the first time, and even an experienced one sometimes grabs his head. Matroskin, if you take a photo of the ignition unit installed on your scooter, the eccentric, the breaker and its contacts, the wire going to the coil, the coil and its terminals, then it will be more convenient for us to show everything in the pictures.

And so again point by point: 1. Secure the breaker eccentric to the dyno starter housing. Install the fan grille and secure it with 4 M6 screws. The slot for the wire coming from the breaker contacts should face up.

Install the breaker contacts into the recess of the fan grille. Secure them with screws. The contacts should look down and be located to the left of the eccentric.

Connect the wire coming from the contacts to the minus terminal of the ignition coil. Attach the capacitor wiring to the same terminal, and secure the capacitor itself to the fan volute housing. Connect the positive wire coming from the ignition switch to the coil to the “plus” terminal. If there are no markings on the coil terminals, it means it doesn’t care where its plus and minus are. Connect the temporary light bulb with one wire to the negative terminal of the coil, and the other to ground. Turn on the ignition.

Loosen the screws securing the base of the breaker and turning it counterclockwise or clockwise, find the moment when the “temporary” lamp lights up, this is the moment of ignition, the moment of the spark.

If everything works out, carefully secure the base of the breaker and start it. It happens that the lamp is constantly on or does not light up at all. The reason for this may be: a large gap on the breaker contacts, a short circuit of the contacts to ground, misalignment, or the fan grille is not installed correctly.

If for some reason you cannot install the ignition, start reading everything from the beginning. Non-motorized flea market Motorized flea market – Archive What-where-how much Swamp Closed forum Comments on the operation of the site and forum.

Adjustment

Without any instruments, you can set the ignition timing experimentally. When warmed up to operating temperature (80-90 degrees), when driving at a speed of 40 km/h, you need to switch to speed 4 and depress the gas pedal. If the electronic contactless ignition was set correctly, a short-term detonation should occur, after which the engine should begin to gradually gain speed. If valve knocking occurs, you need to turn the distributor clockwise by about a degree. The operation is repeated until the knocking stops. If, during the check, a dip in engine speed appears, the distributor is turned in the opposite direction.

In addition to adjusting the ignition timing, the new system may require carburetor adjustment. The VAZ 2107 carburetor has two adjusting screws - quantity and quality. The adjustment is carried out as follows:

1. By rotating the quantity screw, the engine speed is equal to 1200-1300. Next, use the quality adjustment screw to set the maximum speed.
2. Repeat the operation described in paragraph 1 until, at a speed of 1200-1300, the quality adjustment screw is set to the position corresponding to the maximum engine speed.

When installing the BSZ, experts recommend performing not only adjustments, but also cleaning and purging of the carburetor in order to see the real effect of this modernization.

1200 rub. for the photo report

We pay for photo reports on car repairs. Earnings from 10,000 rubles/month.

Write:

Now almost all classic owners install contactless electronic ignition (BSI) on their cars. And it's easy to explain. BSZ has obvious and proven advantages, such as simplicity and ease of configuration. If you are already quite tired of the fact that the contact pair, for certain reasons, very often does not work or even fails. You have not yet decided whether to buy a contactless ignition kit, then this article will help you make the right choice.

The contactless ignition installed on the VAZ will allow you to forget about problems such as oxidation and vibration of contacts, wear of contacts and the breaker cam, and others. More details

Now, let's move on to the most important thing - choosing and installing BSZ on your car.

I think that it is best to opt for a contactless ignition kit made in Russia, namely the city of Stary Oskol.

The box contains the coil, switch, wiring harness and distributor. This kit is recognized as one of the best. It’s true that the price is sky-high, and before purchasing you need to look at what engine block you have, since the distributors differ in the length of the shaft.

For installation, we will need a drill, a drill and a pair of screws; they will be useful for installing the coil in the engine compartment; some engines have a standard mounting location, but you will have to attach the switch yourself. An open-end wrench for “13”, socket or ring wrenches for “8” and “10”, as well as a wrench for “38” are also useful.

Ant dino starter operating principle

The dynostarter as a device is as far from complete perfection as our VAZ plant is from the premium segment. But if at least once a season you carry out competent maintenance of the collector unit, switching equipment, and battery, then with all its inherent shortcomings, the dyno starter can last a very, very long time, up to 30,000 km, or even more.

Basic faults

• Mechanical, caused by natural wear, combustion of windings, destruction of contact groups
• Structural, due to design features
• Malfunctions of the relay regulator that lead to dyno starter failure

The most unpleasant malfunctions are related to mechanics: combustion of windings, interturn short circuit, wear or destruction of the commutator. Other mechanical faults such as wear or sticking of brushes, contamination of the commutator, breakage or oxidation of wires and terminals can be eliminated quite easily.

Diagnostics

The first sign that something has burned out, shorted or broken in the dyno starter or relay regulator is when, out of the blue, right in the middle of the road, your battery charge control lamp comes on.

If this happens to you, then the first thing you need to do is inspect the wires going from the dyno starter to the relay regulator, check the fuse, remove the cover from the relay regulator and at least visually determine the integrity of its elements, remove the rotor and see what’s wrong with the brushes and collector and if nothing suspicious is found there, turn to a very competent electrician for help.

You can try to identify the fault yourself, and within the framework of this article it would be possible to describe all the stages of testing, including the author’s developments, but none of you will do this. In the best case, poke it a couple of times with the tester and you’ll give up on this matter, or even end up using a magnet instead of a dynostarter.

The second sure sign that your dyno starter is in perfect order, but it’s just time to service it, is when, at idle and low engine speeds, the charge warning lamp first begins to blink slightly, then begins to burn more steadily and after a while begins to burn at full intensity throughout engine speed range.

In both the first and second cases, without disassembling the dynostarter, little can be learned about its condition, so if there are any complaints about its operation, we roll up our sleeves, prepare the tool and get started.

Disassembly

We remove everything that interferes with the removal of the rotor, hold the rotor by the fan with your hand and unscrew the nut

A good owner should have a washer and a lock under the nut. The bad one won’t even have a nut...

Remove the rotor from the crankshaft. The rotor can be removed either with a factory puller or with a homemade one - it makes no difference.

First of all, we inspect the rotor commutator and brushes. The commutator must not show any wear or damage. For example, this collector is just dirty and after we wash it, the dynostarter will start working again.

And some deer broke out the lamellas of this collector. Such a rotor will be difficult to help and easier to throw away. To prevent this from happening to your rotor, select bolts for the coupling for the magnet and the fan of the appropriate length, and do not put everything you have on hand there...

This collector was pulled up by something, the lamellas were shorted together and the dynostarter died. If you find a good turner, he will be able to sharpen the scuffs and the rotor’s performance will be restored.

There are situations when the rotor is dropped or the windings are hit. You understand that damage to the power windings will not improve the reliability of your scooter’s power supply system, so handle such devices very carefully and use pullers, and do not knock them down like tractor drivers with a hammer.

On this rotor, someone smacked the windings with relish.

Cleaning the collector

Take a small screwdriver and clean out the dirt between the slats. The collector must be cleaned very carefully so as not to scratch the lamellas.

After cleaning, blow the collector with compressed air, wash it with clean gasoline and wipe it dry with a rag.

When the gasoline has completely evaporated, take a piece of some lint-free cloth, moisten it a little in gasoline and carefully rub the collector with the maximum possible force until it is perfectly clean.

Checking the rotor windings

We switch the tester to the continuity mode and check the winding contours for breakdown: we place one probe on the rotor body, and with the second we touch all the lamellas in turn. If the tester beeps on any lamella or displays a lot of numbers on the screen, the winding is broken and the rotor should be replaced.

Photo report: Engine disassembly

Almost just before leaving for permanent residence on another collective farm, an old acquaintance, whom I had not seen for 15 years, turned to me and asked me to overhaul the engine of his Ant. To be honest, I didn’t have much of a desire to get involved with this Soviet chatterbox, to say the least... But after thinking about it and playing out the situation in my head that I would have to sit in a new place for some time without my favorite job, I agreed and immediately began the repairs.

I will not go into the essence of the disassembly in particular within the framework of this article - I will only outline the main points and, based on my experience, I will try to describe the most common malfunctions and errors during repairs.

The engine had the following symptoms before being repaired:

1. Bad start
2. Oil leak
3. Weak traction
4. Increased noise during operation
5. The winding lever did not return to its place

1. Depressurization of the crank chamber, as well as wear of the seals
2. Poor quality assembly
3. The piston died
4. Bearing wear
5. Kickstarter return spring broke

Everything else, including the gearbox and clutch, did not cause any complaints during operation. However, first things first.

Before a major overhaul, I don’t wash the engines - I just drain the oil, pull it off the frame and get to work.

Removing and checking the piston (CPG)

Remove the cylinder head (cylinder head).

The cylinder head gasket held up well, as evidenced by the absence of oil leaks.

In the upper part of the cylinder opposite the exhaust window, we feel the groove with our finger. If it feels a clearly perceptible so-called “wave”, “step”, that is, a drop, then such a cylinder is no longer subject to further use. It needs to be either bored to repair size or bought a new one.

The wear can be easily felt in the place where the piston rings do not reach the end of the cylinder. In the place where the piston rings do not work, the nominal factory size is maintained, but in the place where they work, the metal wears out. That is why a transition is formed at the boundary of these two sections, which is larger the greater the wear of the cylinder.

In my case, as expected, the wear was clearly palpable and the cylinder mirror was covered in nicks and scratches.

System assembly and installation

The contacts in the breaker, the capacitor, the ignition bobbins and the armor wires, which are part of the previous ignition device, are probably eliminated. The switch should be installed in the glove compartment on the right, and the ignition coil directly under the tank. There are no gaps for fastening on the reel, which means it can be attached using a thick layer of adhesive tape. The standard bolt is also eliminated along with other parts.

In place of the bolt, install a pin of the specified size and put on a washer. Then, the rotor is tightened with a nut located at its end. The hall sensor is attached to the stator by any means. The basic rule when installing it is to set the optimal cross-sectional distance of the modulator and the ratio of the radius and line of symmetry.

When the hall sensor can be secured, we apply the modulator. It should fit into the hole made in the sensor. In most situations, there is a discrepancy between the sizes, so it is necessary to place washers on the stud. If you manage to maintain the required gap, it is recommended to install an engraver and tighten the modulator with a third-party nut.

anthill scooter

I'll give my two cents.

First, decide what the scooter will be used for and how often it will be used. A 2000 year old is probably fine, so leave the working system alone, but put the battery at 12V/17H, go easy and start with the key. Tens of thousands of people must travel to disable a dynastarter.

As for the cam ignition, with all its shortcomings, it seems that the timing is not entirely accurate and so on. It has one big advantage - simplicity. Three details you can see and touch. Moreover, mechanics almost never surprise, which is not the case with electronics.

When problems arise, it is best to address them when they become available. Like any equipment, ants have their problems (with the dynastarter, clutch, carburetor, etc.). However, for many, this method has worked for decades with minimal care.

Well done admin Published March 25, 2011 - 16:51

The generator and starter in the same dynastar bottle remain in place, the switch is removed from the ant. An adapter is made between the shaft and the end of the crankshaft, the front panel is placed on the dynastarter housing, and a magnet is attached to it. Since the magnet will protrude, you will need to make a cutout in the hood. Were there diagrams and pictures in motorcycle magazines for 9? of the year. It was converted into a magnet and into a Voskhod generator. I liked the version with a generator better - in 20 years of operation, I changed the switch once, and that was all the maintenance.

Emil30_30 Published January 28, 2013 - 13:46

Members, I have a question for you. but in general it is possible to restore the entire enton mechanism, today I looked at the failure genes going to the coil and since I bought it second hand I would like to know if there is a relay that can be used instead of the usual one (pp-121 / 2903.3702) , since it is impossible to find it now, if you tell me I will be grateful.

Emil30_30 Published January 28, 2013 - 19:49

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Sleeves on scooters. How to set up a magnet.

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Installing a magnet on an Ant motor, part 2

Installing a magnet on an Ant engine (part 2)

In each case, the reason may be completely different, so you must understand it deeply. Three holes with a diameter of 7 mm are drilled in the fan cover, which are necessary for attaching the magnetic adapter.

Like most Soviet equipment, this cargo scooter is reliable and easy to use, but a little rough around the edges.