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Now, if everything is in order on the other one, remove the ignition from that engine and put it on yours and you will find out what the problem is, the armature has nothing to do with it, only the brushes can be the cause.
The ignition has nothing to do with it, it’s a completely different system! The brushes must be clearly pressed by the springs against the contact rings of the armature. You can simply check the armature with a light bulb - 12 volts should pass through it. The three stator windings are connected at one end together and are also connected by a light bulb. We disconnect the wires and the relay connector - 5 minutes and everything is checked! On ignition - the red light is on - that means the armature is intact and current is flowing to it, start up - the lamp goes out - charging has begun. If the relay is alive and everything is ringing, everything should work, everything is very simple. Well, check the wires again. Good luck, guys! I worked in a television studio, and over the course of 15 years I repaired hundreds of them, take a closer look and that’s all.
Akum Jupiter 5 is not charging, what could it be?!
Previously in the same section:
- Registration of self-propelled gun // 1st December 2012 // 3
- winter season // 17th November 2012 // 6
- I need a bike for a photo shoot))) // 15th November 2012 // 6
- Carbs // 14th November 2012 // 3
- Maybe someone else is not so lucky? // 31st October 2012 // 6
There are 13 comments left on this post.
brushes. Relyushka, generator, if the indicator lamp for generator operation is on and goes out after starting, then this is the relay that is covered under the ass
yes, it was so dim... but now it doesn’t even light up... not the headlights, nothing more, just the dimensions when you turn the key...
I also think because when I turned the steering wheel the instrument panel was on and now it doesn’t even light up, but before that it was as if the headlights were on, you turn on and no matter what, the signal works and starts...
In general, the communicator is on fire and is shorting out...
where does it close if the charge switch wanders, you won’t be sure that it is it
yes, what else?! I looked at everything and there is no short circuit... it worked before, I didn’t touch it now, my Akum connected it, the finger burned.
Generator - serviceability check
Checking the serviceability of the generator can be done on a motorcycle without disassembling the generator.
To carry out the work you will need a multimeter.
1. Place the motorcycle on the center stand or side stand.
2. Disconnect the battery by removing its fuse.
3. Remove the right cover of the power unit.
4. 6mm
unscrew the nuts securing the five “upper” wires of the generator. In order not to confuse the wires during subsequent assembly, we mark them or tie them with thin wire so that we get a cable.
5. Check the short circuit of the stator windings to ground. To do this, touch the probes of the multimeter to the generator housing and alternately the three terminals of the windings. The ohmmeter should show infinity.
6. Check the stator windings for breaks. To do this, touch the probes of the multimeter in turn to all three terminals of the stator windings. The resistance should be about 8 ohms.
7. Check for a short to ground in the excitation (rotor) winding. To do this, touch the probes to the generator housing and one of the terminals of the brush assembly. The ohmmeter should show infinity.
8. Check the field winding (rotor) for open circuit. To do this, install probes on both brushes. The ohmmeter should not show infinity.
Source
Maintenance
The owner can independently perform some maintenance procedures:
- check the motorcycle generator if the battery loses charge;
- set the gap between the breaker contacts;
- adjust the quality of the sound signal.
The need to inspect and adjust the wiring arises if:
- the motorcycle moves in the rain for a long time, as this causes oxidation of the contacts;
- a motorcyclist rides in an area with a lot of vegetation that damages wiring;
- The driver rides in snow in winter, which can stick to electrical wiring parts and damage them.
Self-check of the Planet 5 motorcycle generator in case of loss of charge
The cause of loss of charge in the IZH Planet 5 battery is most often a breakdown of the generator.
To check it yourself you need:
- multimeter device;
- straight screwdriver.
Step-by-step instruction
The following steps must be followed:
- Disconnect the wires from the battery and remove the generator cover.
- Disconnect the top 5 wires from the generator, first unscrewing their fastenings. In order not to mix up the wires during assembly, it is worth marking them.
- Measure the winding resistance using a multimeter in ohmmeter mode. To do this, you need to touch the body with one probe, and the other should be connected in turn to the 3 wires of the winding. There should be no short circuits, as indicated by the inscription on the multimeter screen.
- Test the resistance between the stator contacts: you need to touch them one by one with the multimeter probes. The value on the screen should be 8 ohms.
The presence of a short circuit in the 3rd stage or a discrepancy in the indicators in the 4th will indicate problems with the generator.
Photo gallery: stages of checking the IZH Planet 5 generator in case of loss of charge in pictures
How to correctly set the gap between the contacts of the breaker?
In order to set the gap between the breaker contacts, you will need:
- straight screwdriver;
- wrench 10;
- candle key;
- probe 0.4 mm thick (+/– 0.05 mm).
Next, you need to follow the steps sequentially:
- Place the motorcycle on a stand and place the gearbox in neutral.
- Remove the right crankcase cover and unscrew the spark plug.
- Using a 10mm wrench, grab the generator rotor mounting bolt and turn the crankshaft to a position where the contacts are as far apart as possible.
- Loosen the screw securing the contact.
- Place the probe between the contacts and adjust the tightening of the eccentric screw until the probe passes the contacts with little resistance.
- Tighten the contact fixing screw.
Photo gallery: adjusting the gap between the breaker contacts
Troubleshooting the audio signal and improving signal quality
Poor sound signal quality is mainly caused by improper adjustment.
The following tools will be needed for setup:
- wrench 7;
- a simple screwdriver.
If there is no charging on the Izh Jupiter motorcycle.
This article was written to help those motorists who decided to find and fix a malfunction in the battery charging system on IZH 12V motorcycles themselves.
Of the special instruments, you will need the simplest tester with a continuity function (tweeter) and resistance measurement. If you do not have this device, then you can use a light bulb with a battery to determine the contact or break in the circuit.
In this case, you need to install a well-charged battery on the motorcycle, or power the on-board network from another external power source with a constant voltage of 12 V. First of all, we check the presence of voltage with the ignition switch on at the positive terminal of the regulator relay. There should be +12v.
If there is no voltage, then we look for a break from the positive terminal of the battery through the ignition switch and to the + terminal on the relay regulator.
Next, we measure the voltage on the brushes. There should be +12V on one of the brushes. If not, we call the wiring from the relay to the generator brushes.
Next step. We take the brushes out of the holder and ring each of them from the terminal to the graphite. It happens that at the point of contact of the wire with the graphite body of the brush itself, the contact is lost.
Troubleshooting the generator
Three phase wires are disconnected from the stator and the winding (connected to each other according to a star circuit) is connected. That is, the windings should ring with each other and have approximately the same resistance. If some winding does not ring, this means that there is a break and the stator is not working properly.
Next, all three phases are called relative to the body (mass). If it rings, it means the windings are broken into the housing and the stator is not working properly.
Anchor
We ring the armature winding (on copper rings). If the rings ring among themselves - good, if not - there is a break, the armature is not working.
The next step is to wire the armature winding relative to the armature body.
If it doesn’t ring, it’s good; if it rings, the winding is broken into the housing and the armature is not working properly!
Relay regulator
If all the wiring is in order, the brushes, stator and rotor are ringing and everything is working, all that remains is the relay regulator! In my experience, even if you don’t have much knowledge of radio electronics, you can at least remove the back cover of the relay regulator and wipe off all the dirt. Carefully look at all the contacts, fastening parts, wires, jumpers; sometimes the contact or soldering simply falls off due to vibration. The diode bridge is practically “eternal”. But the control thyristors sometimes fly out! They are also called simply - to check for breakdown on the housing and between the cathode and the control electrode!
They are also easy to change; a 10 mm nut is unscrewed from below and the wires are unsoldered from above.
That's basically it. And there is absolutely no need to change entire components at random; there can be a lot of reasons, even banal bad contact on the chips or oxidation of the wires in the connector
The editors of the magazine thank Sergei Sharikov for kindly providing materials for the article.
If you have something to share with readers and would like to publish your story or photo report about your travels on our website, please send the materials to:
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Why is there no charging for IZH Jupiter 5
RainbowRising
04/11/2010 23:04 at least tell me how you connected this ignition light. and what is the cost of the relay regulator? Yes, and in vain you stuck to this light bulb, if, as you say, the Akum is not dead, then the engine should start regardless of whether it is on or not. on a conventional relay, the lamp lights up when the motor is running on battery power and when the field winding is intact). I also connected it for myself. and if the engine does not start, then simply check the spark.
By the way, everything can successfully burn out if the wires fall off the Akum, so hook it very securely and don’t jump anywhere
There is also a problem with the magnetization of the DH curtain, maybe because of this (the motor won’t start, but the relay couldn’t burn out because of this), the solution is to install a sasa777
04/12/2010 08:51 The relay-regulator is a regular old model (all contacts are together and not scattered).
And the rest of the wiring is connected at the factory. A motorcycle sometimes travels 1 km. sasa777
04/12/2010 08:51 The most important thing is that when it stalls, the ignition lamp does not light up at all.
RainbowRising
04/12/2010 12:15 I’ll say again that if Akum is not dead (which is confirmed by the headlights and signal), then in general there is a deep ********** on this light bulb. it is needed to control the charging of the battery and check the integrity of the field winding, but not for the spark.
This article was written to help those motorists who decided to find and fix a malfunction in the battery charging system on IZH 12V motorcycles themselves.
Of the special instruments, you will need the simplest tester with a continuity function (tweeter) and resistance measurement. If you do not have this device, then you can use a light bulb with a battery to determine the contact or break in the circuit.
In this case, you need to install a well-charged battery on the motorcycle, or power the on-board network from another external power source with a constant voltage of 12 V. First of all, we check the presence of voltage with the ignition switch on at the positive terminal of the regulator relay. There should be +12v.
If there is no voltage, then we look for a break from the positive terminal of the battery through the ignition switch and to the + terminal on the relay regulator.
Next, we measure the voltage on the brushes. There should be +12V on one of the brushes. If not, we call the wiring from the relay to the generator brushes.
Next step. We take the brushes out of the holder and ring each of them from the terminal to the graphite. It happens that at the point of contact of the wire with the graphite body of the brush itself, the contact is lost.
Checking the motorcycle's charging.
- We take a tester and set it to measure constant voltage (if there is a gradation of measurements, set it to 20 V). We measure the battery with the motorcycle not running. A fully charged battery is 12.8 - 12.9 volts (if less, it is advisable to charge the battery so that further measurements are correct, and also check the battery - you can read how to do this in the article: How to check the battery .)
- If the battery is serviceable and infected, we proceed to check the charging of the motorcycle. We measure the voltage on the battery with a tester, with the motorcycle running (idling, without consumers turned on: lights, heated handles, etc.), the voltage should be 13-15 volts. If the motorcycle charging test does not meet the criteria, move on.
- We turn on only “natural consumers” (lights), the voltage should be at least 12.8 volts (ideally, about 13.5 volts). If less, something is wrong.
- We turn on all consumers (additional equipment), if the voltage drops below 12.8 volts, try raising the idle speed to 1000 - 1100, the voltage should be at least 12.8 volts. If it is smaller, the generator does not pull all consumers (additional equipment) and may burn out.
- We give the gas 3000 - 4000 revolutions, the voltage should rise to 13 - 15 volts with all consumers turned on. On some motorcycles, the voltage rises to a maximum at 3500 -4000 rpm, and at higher rpm it drops, but not more than 13 volts (this is due to increased load at high rpm: the injectors begin to consume more power (they are open almost all the time), this is normal ). If less, something is wrong.
If something is wrong.
- Disconnect the relay regulator (remove the connector). Let's take a tester.
- We set the tester to measure resistance. We check the resistance between ground (engine) and the generator wires (three wires, usually yellow). It shouldn't exist. If at least one has it, your motorcycle's alternator has burned out.
- We check the resistance between the generator wires, the resistance should be the same, about 1 - 3 ohms. If it is more or not the same, your motorcycle's alternator has burned out.
- We set the tester to measure alternating voltage. We start the motorcycle, measure the voltage between the generator wires, it should be more than 18 volts at idle, and more than 40 volts at 3000 - 4000 rpm. If there is no or different voltage, your motorcycle's alternator has burned out.
- If the check in points 2, 3 and 4 went well, most likely your motorcycle has a faulty Relay - Regulator or, which also happens, a wiring fault (clean all terminals, check the integrity of the wires, connections to ground). If your motorcycle's generator burns out, this is the place for you: Rewinding the generator with your own hands.
How to check a motorcycle generator IZH Jupiter 5
First you need to check whether the generator windings are shorted to ground. To do this, take a 12 volt lamp, solder 2 wires (probe) to it, turn off the BPV, turn on the ignition, connect one wire of the lamp to the wire that connects to terminal X8 (BPV), this will be the “+” of the battery (AK). We connect the second wire one by one to wires X5, X4, X7, X1 - the lamp should NOT light up. If the lamp lights up, even not at full strength, it means that the windings are shorted to ground - these could be the wires that go to the generator or a short in the generator itself. X5, X4, X7 - stator windings, X1 - excitation winding.
(if the excitation winding is short to ground, quite unpleasant consequences are possible! such as melting of the brushes, blown AK fuse, if you have one of course :), if not, then the wiring will burn.)
We check the serviceability of the generator operation indicator lamp. To do this, we short-circuit X8, X3 (BPV is turned off, the ignition is on), the control lamp should light up, if not, check the lamp and the wires suitable to it. Now we check the excitation winding, for this we connect one wire of our probe to ground, and the second to X1 (the BPV is turned off, the ignition is on), the probe should light up, if it does not light up, the excitation winding is faulty. (this could be a stuck brush, a break in the wire leading to the brush, or a break in the field winding).br/> If all our tests give a positive result, we check the operation of the generator. To do this, we close wires X1-X2 (the BPV is off), turn on the ignition, start the motorcycle, connect the probe with one wire to ground, and alternately connect the second wire to wires X5, X4, X7, the probe should light up. If the lamp does not light on any wire, it means that the stator winding or the wire suitable for it is faulty. If everything is OK, then the generator is working.
After you have made sure that the generator is working, but there is no charging on the AC or the indicator lamp does not go out when the engine is running, it means that the BPV is faulty.
Source
MY MOTORCYCLE
The problem with 6-volt motorcycles is the electrics. Let me put it briefly - complete crap (sorry). I encountered it myself and am still suffering. There’s no way I’m switching to 12-volt on my boxer.
In this article, the author explained the main problems and how to deal with them. Everything applies to motorcycles with this type of electrics.
First of all, by external inspection, make sure that all the wires are securely fastened, the tips are not oxidized, the battery is charged, and the indicator lamp for the generator is working properly. It would be useful to open the cover of the relay regulator and check the condition of the contacts.
Have a diagram of your motorcycle.
Let's get started.
a) When the engine is not running and the ignition is on, the indicator light on the headlight lights up with a low glow. Check the battery charge level. Check the reliability of the connection of the electrical wire contacts in the battery - central switch circuit, as well as the condition of the central switch contacts, the warning lamp holder and the battery terminals for oxidation. Remember: have you recently tightened any long screws or self-tapping screws in the generator area that could cause a short circuit?
b) The control lamp lights up at all engine speeds with an even glow. First of all, check the operation of the generator, for which connect the “W” terminal of the generator to “ground” and connect the lamp to the “I” and “W” terminals for 6 volts. If while the engine is running (do not rev too much - it won’t take long to burn the lamp) the lamp does not light up or burns with a weak glow, then the generator is faulty, and in this case it is necessary to check:
1. Ease of moving brushes in the brush holder. In case of jamming, clean the brush holder. (Brushes are a special topic: if you have changed them, check them with an Avometer/multimeter; their resistance should be about 1 ohm; now brushes with a high carbon content and a low graphite content are on sale, their resistance is 20-30 ohms - they are not suitable , definitely throw it away. We try using a drill, a VAZ-classic, and grind it first.)
2. Presence of contact between the brush and the current-carrying wire—external inspection. If necessary, replace the brush.
3. Presence of contact between the brushes and the commutator, no hanging of the brush in the brush holder on the wire - external inspection; if there is no contact due to excessive wear, replace the brush. (A brush is considered worn out when worn by 1/4 of the length, i.e. up to a size of 11 mm .) do not forget that the brush connected to the “I” terminal is isolated from ground.
4. Condition of the surface of the collector - external inspection; if the surface of the lamellas is dirty or oily, wash the collector with gasoline or clean it with glass sandpaper. (I insist with glass sandpaper)
5. Check the serviceability of the generator stator excitation coils with an avometer/multimeter. If there is no avometer, disconnect the wires coming from the bundle from the terminals “M”, “I”, “W” of the generator, without removing the output wires of the excitation coils from the terminals “I” and “W”. Disconnect the output wire of the excitation coils (an additional resistance that is available on motorcycles with an IZH-56 relay-regulator) from ground. Then connect one terminal of the battery to the generator terminal “I” or “W”. Connect any motorcycle lamp in series to the second terminal of the battery, and the second contact of the lamp to the free terminal “I” or “W”. If the lamp does not light, it means that there is a break in the excitation coils (usually due to the lack of contacts at the junction of the excitation coils). It is necessary to check the connections of the coils and, if necessary, solder them.
If there is no break in the field windings, i.e. the lamp is on, then it is necessary to additionally check that the field windings are not shorted to ground. To do this, connect one terminal of the battery to the “ground” of the generator, and the second - through the lamp to the “I” or “W” terminal. If the lamp does not light, then there are no short circuits and the generator stator is working. If the lamp is on, then you should find the location of the short circuit. To do this, remove the stator from the engine and re-check the absence of a short to ground of the stator coils using the above method. If the short circuit is eliminated after removing the stator, it means that it was caused by contact of the generator mounting screws with the field coil due to insulation failure or contact.
Author: Matvey Semyonov (https://vk.com/avtomotosam) and a little adjective))))))
Generator stator 281.3701 for IZH motorcycles
The stator is installed on the right half of the engine crankcase and secured with three bolts. The frame is made of special sheet steel. It has 18 tooth-shaped places for winding phase windings. The phase winding is made of one solid wire with a diameter of 0.9 mm and is wound on six teeth. Each tooth has 20 turns of copper wire wound around it. There are six teeth in total on the winding, so 120 turns are wound. There are three such windings. The connection of the windings is made with a star. The terminals of the phase windings are connected to the terminals of the comb.
The generator stator is covered with an aluminum alloy cover. There are special places on the cover and threaded holes where the carbon brush holder is installed. A breaker with a capacitor to produce a spark. Special comb for connecting wires.
Generator
The heart is the generator (sometimes called a magneto, but they were never used on Izh Planet). Three windings produce alternating current. For excitation, an additional coil is used instead of a permanent magnet. Therefore, it is impossible to jump start a motorcycle with a completely dead or missing battery.
A diode bridge for current rectification and a voltage regulator assembled in one unit are mounted on the Izh Planet 5 generator (they are not even highlighted in the Izh Planet wiring diagram manuals).
Possible breakdowns in this unit:
- It is checked by measuring their resistance of current-carrying conductors and insulation. If the generator is damaged, it will become noticeably hot.
- — the output voltage will differ significantly from the nominal level or be absent.
- Although the electrical circuit includes short circuit protection, it happens that the automation does not work and most often the output transistor burns out.
Wiring diagram Izh planet - 5, how to determine the malfunction
While easily fixing mechanical failures, motorcyclists experience difficulties if the electrics fail. It’s completely in vain, the wiring diagram of the planet Izh 5 is not complicated, it’s easy to figure out.
There is no need to have special stands and equipment for repairs. A minimum knowledge of electrical engineering and a simple avometer (tester) is enough; even often you can get by with just a test lamp.
We will tell you in more detail about the main electrical wiring components and possible malfunctions. Finding a broken wire or damaged insulation is easy (for example, a bad contact always gets hot).
In this case, we look to see if there is a spark at the coil output and at the output at the spark plug contact. Now in detail about the main wiring components of the Izh Planet.
Generator
The heart is the generator (sometimes called a magneto, but they were never used on Izh Planet). Three windings produce alternating current. For excitation, an additional coil is used instead of a permanent magnet. Therefore, it is impossible to jump start a motorcycle with a completely dead or missing battery.
Possible breakdowns in this unit:
- Breakdown or breakage of coils. It is checked by measuring their resistance of current-carrying conductors and insulation. If the generator is damaged, it will become noticeably hot.
- Failure of the diode bridge - the output voltage will differ significantly from the nominal level or be absent.
- Failure of the voltage regulator. Although the electrical circuit includes short circuit protection, it happens that the automation does not work and most often the output transistor burns out.
Battery
The battery in the motorcycle is low-power. The motorcycle does not have a starter, so its task is only to supply voltage to the ignition system and the generator excitation winding during starting. Thanks to the battery, designed for 12 volts, a stable start of the fifth Planet is ensured; up to the third model, the wiring was 6 volt, and the ignition was not always clear.
Possible battery malfunctions:
- Mechanical damage - housing, plates, leakage of electrolyte.
- Loss of electrolyte density is determined by measurements using a hydrometer.
- The short circuit of the plates in the banks is detected by measuring the resistance.
- It is possible that the connection is not correct, minus not on the body (frame) of the motorcycle - all the electronics will not work.
Ignition system
The ignition chopper is used to ignite a spark at a certain point in the piston stroke. In early modifications of the electrical wiring of Izh Planet 5, contact was mounted, later electronic.
The main malfunctions of this unit:
- Burning of breaker contacts is determined visually.
- Failure of a sensor or switch elements - the easiest way to detect it is to use the method of installing a known-good unit. The lubrication system sensor valve is also checked using the same method.
- An incorrectly set ignition timing is visible from the fuzzy operation of the engine. It can be eliminated by adjustment using special probes.
The ignition coil increases the voltage to several kilovolts so that the discharge can ignite a spark at the spark plug electrodes. The secondary winding is made of a fairly thin wire; most often it burns out. Although a breakdown between the turns or onto the housing is also possible. The same troubles can (but less often) happen to the primary circuit. Everything is revealed using resistance measurements.
Headlight and alarm lamps
Regular incandescent lamps are used; it is not difficult to find a burnt coil.
Switching elements
These include switches (high-low, turns, engine stop, etc.) as well as brake and neutral sensors and the ignition switch. You can easily “ring” them with a tester, finding out which contact group is not working.
As can be seen from all of the above, the wiring on Izh Planet is without any special secrets or complex elements, all its parts are easily diagnosed and repairs should not cause difficulties.
Now we advise you to watch the video, which shows in detail and clearly the assembly of the Izh Planet 5 circuit.
Generator rotor 281.3701
The generator rotor 1 is located inside the stator. It is installed on the crankshaft using bolt 3 and key 5. An excitation winding 6 is wound on the rotor core with a copper wire with a diameter of 0.56 mm, 600 turns are made. The winding resistance is approximately 6.4 ohms. For contact with the winding, two copper rings 2 and carbon brushes are used. They perform the work of a current collector.
How to remove the generator rotor 281.3701
The breaker cam 4 is installed in one position on the rotor shaft in a special socket and secured with a mounting bolt 3. Under this cam there is a thread that is intended for removing the rotor from the crankshaft. To remove the rotor, you need to screw the screw from the chain disassembly device into the thread. The device is located in the motorcycle tool. If there is no screw, you can use a regular bolt with an M10 thread. The only condition for the thread must be at least 70 mm. Turn until the screw rests on the crankshaft. Then we apply more force to tighten it, and the rotor is removed from the shaft.
Generator care
Comes down to visual inspection and cleaning.
First of all, you need to pay attention to parts subject to wear. The carbon brushes of the current collector wear out faster than other parts. They require regular inspection and are replaced if worn. The slip rings of the slip ring must be kept clean. You cannot clean it with sandpaper or needle files. You can use the finest glass sandpaper.
The breaker contacts are periodically checked for the gap value specified in the instructions. For Planet 4 the gap is 0.4 - 0.6 mm. In case of burning, the contacts are leveled and then polished to a mirror finish.
Electrical circuit diagram of the IZH Planet Sport motorcycle
How to make the transition to contactless SZ? When the engine is switched off, the indicator lights up, and when the engine is running, it goes out.
How can I modify the generator? After long-term use, the ignition circuit of IZ Jupiter 5 is changed by the owners to systems from other Soviet motorcycles. The turn signal switch is located on the frame under the gas tank. Wiring diagram for IZH Jupiter 5 The bike of the fifth Jupiter has a contact SZ, which is battery-powered, so the operation of the vehicle is highly dependent on the state of charge of the battery. Install the generator in reverse order. It is protected against short circuits in the signal lamp circuit and does not require maintenance. For beginners, standard lighting can not only be inconvenient, but also lead to an accident. To do this, you need to identify what problems there are with the wiring. At the same time, the schematic diagram of the electrical equipment of IZH Jupiter 5 is preserved. Burnt contacts, oily spark plugs and batteries with a charge of less than 12 V further worsen sparking. An additional coil is used as an exciter. Charging IZH
Related article: Checking the loop resistance phase zero
Part 1. Part 2. Finally, the long-awaited and certainly the most enjoyable time in restoring a motorcycle has arrived: assembly! Assembly for me is those moments when you screw a couple of shiny bolts onto a freshly painted part, sit in the garage with a cup of coffee and admire it! Lots of photos!
Gradually, the parts laid out around the garage turned into a motorcycle. As soon as I put it on wheels, it was already an achievement; now I can roll it around the garage, and not have to carry an increasingly heavy frame every day
It came down to the wiring. I didn’t bother with the old one, it was in terrible condition, especially since I planned to convert the equipment to 12V and preferably with electronic ignition. I purchased the necessary 12V equipment, wires of different colors and sections, and off I went. Wiring as part of the build was also a lot of fun for me, I love fiddling around with wires. During the assembly process, I couldn’t wait to see how it would look, and periodically threw on a tank with a seat, creating the appearance of a finished motorcycle. Even sometimes I dabbled with light bulbs, then it generally seemed that the motorcycle was already ready! Electronic ignition was not easy, those who switched know that it’s all about the adapter plate for the 12V generator, which does not fit into the seat of the Jupiter-3 crankcase! So I suffered with her! There seem to be some problems; these faceplates are sold ready-made on the market without any problems. I bought one, but it didn’t fit when the generator was installed, the cells for the brushes didn’t match the armature! People advised that ideally it should be carved from a single piece of aluminum, but I couldn’t find a block of that size. As a result, I calculated what size the adapter faceplate for my crankcase-generator should be and gave it to a turner for modification, purchased on the market. After that everything was no problem! The dimensions of my faceplate The original ignition switch had to be changed a little, the charge control on 12V equipment worked on a different principle. So the moment came when I realized that I had everything ready for the first start! The ignition is set, there is a spark, the carburetor is filled with fuel, let's try it! Of course it didn’t start right away! But he didn’t show off for long; from about the tenth kick he started groaning! HOORAY!
Electrical equipment IZH Jupiter 5
An important element of a motorcycle is a large amount of electrical equipment. The IZh electrical circuit includes the following elements:
- battery; — 12 volts
- generator: - 12 volts
- switch;
- headlight;
- dashboard;
- wiring;
- sound signal;
- turn relay, direction indicators;
- stop signal;
- charging relay;
- combination switch;
- ignition coil, spark plug;
- relay regulator;
- rectifier, fuses.
Given the presence of such a large amount of electrical equipment in the wiring on IZ Jupiter 5, many special terminals were used to fix connections, which made it possible, if problems were detected, to quickly disconnect the faulty element for repair or replacement.
To properly disconnect faulty parts, owners most often used the IZ Jupiter 5 color wiring diagram with a detailed description, which, if necessary, could also be used to determine how to connect certain elements of the circuit.
no charger for Jupiter 5 battery
no charger for Jupiter 5 battery
POMAH, check if the light that should go out when charging is working properly. check the generator winding brushes, whether the rotor is magnetized, whether there is current when rotating from the generator phases, replace the relay regulator which is under the saddle.
1 - parking light lamp - A 12-4; 2 - high beam - low beam headlight - A 12-45:40; 3 - indicator lamp for generator operation - A 12-1; 4, 5 — speedometer scale illumination lamps — AMN 12-3; 6, 16, 17, 20, 23, 30 — lamps for the direction indicators of the motorcycle and side trailer; 7 - combination switch (right switch); 8 — brake light switch for the front wheel brake; 9 - breaker; 10 — spark plug; 11 — ignition coil; 12 - generator; 13 — rectifier-voltage regulator BPV14-10; 14 — brake light switch for the wheel brake; 15, 19 — side trailer clearance lamps — A 12-5; 18 — brake light lamp for side trailer — A 12-21-3; 21 — motorcycle brake light lamp — A 12-21-3; 22 — motorcycle rear marker lamp — A 12-5; 24 - battery; 25 - fuse; 26 — neutral lamp switch; 27 — ignition switch; 28 — sound signal; 29 — alarm switch (left switch); 31 — turn signal switch; 32 - high beam headlight control lamp - A 12-1; 32 — control lamp “neutral” — A 12-1; 33 - control lamp for direction indicator lights - AMN 12-3; Symbols on the BPV14-10 block (items 12,13): XI - “-” excitation windings; X2 - “-” battery (“ground”); ХЗ - “+” output to the control lamp; X4, X5, X7 - phases of the stator winding of the generator; X8 - “+” of the battery.
IZh Planeta-5 (electronic ignition system) 1, 13, 28, 32 - lamps A 12-21-3 turn signal lamps; 2, 14, 27, 33 — direction indicator lights; 3 — control lamp A 12-1 “high beam”; 4 - lamp A 12-4 - parking light; 5 - headlight; 6 - lamp A 12-45-40 high beam - low beam headlights; 7 — indicator lamp AMN 12-3-1 direction indicator; 8 — control lamp A 12-1 “neutral”; 9 — control lamp A 12 “oil”; 10 — lamp AMN 12-3-1 speedometer lighting; 11 — speedometer; 12 — instrument panel; 15 - combination switch (right switch); 16 — brake light switch for the front wheel brake; 17 — ignition switch; 18 — sound signal; 19 — turn signal switch; 20 — spark plug; 21 — spark plug tip; 22 — ignition coil; 23 - switch; 24 - fuse; 25 - generator; 26 — sensor; 29 — lamp A 12-21-4 brake lights; 30 — rear light; 31 — lamp A 12-5 of the rear marker light of a motorcycle; 34 — brake light switch for the rear wheel brake; 35 — rectifier-voltage regulator; 36 - capacitor 2200 uF 63V; 37 — battery; 38 — oil supply valve-sensor; 39 — lamp switch “neutral”; 40 - alarm switch (left switch).
1 — headlight FG 137B2; 2 — lamp 12-45-40; 3, 4, 11, 12 — lamps A 12-1; 5 — sound signal S205B; 6 — thermal relay for turning on the electric fan 661.3710; 7 — electric fan; 8 — lamp switch “neutral”; 9 — lamp A 12-4; 10, 13 — lamp AMN 12-3-1; 14 - combination switch (right switch); 15 — switch IZHVK 103; 16, 28, 32, 35, 39 — lamps A 12-21-3; 17, 29, 34, 38 — direction indicator lights; 18 — overheat indicator sensor TM111; 19 — ignition switch; 20, 23 — spark plugs; 21, 24 — spark plug tips; 22, 25 — ignition coils; 26 — generator GP7; 27 — rectifier-voltage regulator BPV14-10; 33 — lamp A 12-5; 30 — switch IZHVK107; 31 — rear light 111.3716; 36 — battery; 37 - fuse; 40 — alarm switch (left switch); 41 - turn signal switch.
Major problem with motorcycle wiring
On IZ Jupiter 5, the wiring had a large number of contact terminals. Therefore, the main cause of malfunctions in the electrical circuit was a violation of the integrity of the connections. This led to such moments as: there is no charging for the battery, the generator does not provide the necessary 12-volt voltage to the system, the switch is not able to generate the necessary charge for the ignition coil, loss of functionality of all lighting devices, and a number of others.
The cause of loss of connection in the terminals was contamination and oxidation of the contacts. This was especially true for motorcycles produced at the beginning of mass production. The main way to solve this problem was to exclude these terminals from the IZ Jupiter 5 wiring.
To do this, we used soldering the wires directly to each other (by analogy with the Tula motorcycle), as well as sealing the terminals on the supply wires to the following main elements:
This increased the reliability of the connections and, as a result, ensured the operability of the specified parts, and also made it possible to turn on charging for the battery in order to subsequently confidently start the engine of the IZH Jupiter 5 motorcycle.
Unlike similar Soviet-era motorcycle models, the electrical wiring diagram of the IZH Jupiter 5 motorcycle provides for operation from a battery with air-cooled equipment. This causes many problems for owners. The article provides recommendations for modernization that solves problems with sparking.
What to do if charging on the IZH is lost? How to find a fault!
When the battery on an IZh motorcycle with 12-volt electrical equipment fails to charge, the first thing to do is.
Next, all three phases are called relative to the body (mass). If it rings, it means the windings are broken into the housing and the stator is not working properly.
Anchor
We ring the armature winding (on copper rings). If the rings ring among themselves - good, if not - there is a break, the armature is not working.
The next step is to wire the armature winding relative to the armature body.
Content:
The fifth Jupiter model belongs to the middle class of road motorcycles, can travel on roads with different surfaces and, what is very important, is equipped with a cargo or passenger trailer with a carrying capacity of up to 100 kg, slightly inferior in loading to the Ural motorcycle with a sidecar. Other positive properties of IZ Jupiter 5 include:
- Powerful engine.
- Maintainability (do-it-yourself repairs are possible even in rural conditions).
- Economical to operate.
- Affordable price.
- High-quality electrical circuit with a powerful generator.
Among the technical parameters of the motorcycle, the main ones should be highlighted:
- power – 25.0 l. With.;
- engine volume – 348 cubic meters. cm;
- type of lubrication – joint;
- highest speed – 125 (95 with trailer) km/h;
- fuel – gasoline A76;
- cooling – air;
- frame design – welded tubular;
- electrical equipment voltage – 12 volts (battery sources, generator).
Features of electrical equipment
Despite the unification of parts with other models, the IZH Yu5 wiring diagram was chosen for battery use.
We are talking about a contact ignition system, which, if the battery is dead, immediately creates problems for the owner:
- Starting the engine is difficult;
- The engine runs intermittently;
- Driving at low speeds further drains the battery.
Therefore, many owners prefer to upgrade their ignition system with their own hands to a more progressive one - a contactless electronic type. It should also be noted that repairing the wiring of IZ Jupiter 5 should there be a desire for such an upgrade (see also the article about the wiring diagram of IZ Planet 5).
For reference: unlike the Jupiter model, new wiring and an electronic ignition system were installed on the modified IZ Planet 5. The methods proposed below are designed for simplified work - not requiring major replacement of components.
Current wiring diagram of IZH Planet 5 and its problems
The wiring diagram of IZH Planet 5 is not complicated, and it is quite possible for a person, even with little experience, to independently check its serviceability and carry out repairs. It is enough to know the principle of operation and its main problems, which owners of the IZH P5 motorcycle often encounter.
How to wire IZH Planet 5
Most of the Planet 5 motorcycles in use today are equipped with a contactless ignition system. This makes it possible to use the motorcycle even without a battery - but the lights and direction indicators will not work.
Some owners remove the battery themselves or remove the main fuse if the electrical circuit is damaged and there is no time or desire to deal with it.
But, according to current traffic regulations, the operation of a motorcycle with such malfunctions is prohibited, and therefore the Planet 5 wiring must always be in perfect condition.
The IZ wiring diagram is designed for a voltage of 12 Volts, not 6, which should be taken into account by the owner of the motorcycle. The circuit uses the metal frame of the motorcycle as the negative wire: all wires have a positive charge, and their short circuit with the frame is often the main cause of wiring failure.