Is it possible to start a motz if there is no battery?
That is, by jerking, I’m just stupid in electrical engineering and if you can do something there, connect the terminals.
Search the forum - Manovar has answered about this more than once.
When the lightning at home is turned off, try turning on the light by quickly pressing the switch
As a last resort, I connected a crown-type battery if the engine started normally before. Once the dimensions of the entire Akum were eaten. but there are probably a lot of tricks here too. It probably also depends on the ignition.
and finally, this is in the wrong section. This is an electrician. I'm transferring
what kind of generator is it?
for manowar
: Well, apparently it’s a standard one, which is usually found on the 2000 warriors. I don't know anything else
gently tear it apart, attach two small powerful magnets to the rotor. Yes, install capacitors from 1000 uF X25V at the output of 2 diode bridges
for Praetorian
: Why don’t you basically want to install a battery??
But really, wouldn’t it be easier to install a battery? Actually, MT and Ural with a standard G 424 generator and standard ignition (not electronic) are unlikely to start without an external source. As for what you need to power it from - a battery, a bunch of batteries or a charger - that’s your problem. For me, when I installed 2 coils from Moskvich when the Akum was hooked, it was an ass. If it doesn’t start on the first kick, don’t try any further - the coils consume the current completely, and the battery drops to 0. And then without a charger it’s not a big deal.
so, on the voyage it’s electronic and the generator is 500ka
for manowar
: Of course, I’m not as specialized in electronics as you are, but in my opinion, with a crappy battery, at least some kind of start can only be ensured by ignition on the storage condensers. And even though it’s 500, she still has tension with self-stimulation.
for uri
: Do you mean thyristor ignition with a converter? so good for this. although in other respects the ignition is lousy. But you’re wrong about the 500. This idea first came to me when I was setting up a Pepelats for one person and doing the wiring. When I started it from a fresh battery (the standard one was removed and put on charge), the battery was connected directly to the ignition. So, at about 3000 rpm, the headlight flashed (it turned out to be on), and the generator, which was quite heavily loaded, self-excited (a fraction of an ohm, the resistance of the lamp filament is 100 watts in a cold state). Either the rotor is magnetized or the external field of the earth has “played”. I turned it off, checked it again, and it also flashes at the same speed. connected the condenser to the output of a low-power diode bridge - it began to flash already at
1500 rpm Already after, going through the 500 generators, I secured a small magnet inside one and, having installed one Conder, the frisky kick-motz starts up. Another thing is that at the output of the generator we get not a constant but a pulsating voltage - after all, the battery is needed not only for starting, but also acts as a voltage-smoothing element (capacitor), we install another power supply capacitor +12 with a capacity of 10,000 uF - the lamp shines noticeably brighter, although the voltage in the on-board network remains the same, it’s just that the voltage is no longer pulsating but constant. Damn excrement like this, damn it. I’m not going to give up the battery myself
A few questions about this:
Did you unplug the ignition wires or turn off the lock? After all, if the wires are not removed and the ignition is turned on, then the voltage will go completely to the on-board network, incl. and to excite the generator
So they usually come dry-charged, and after filling with electrolyte and impregnating the plates there is already a voltage there.
for uri
: on solar cars there is a connector for the ignition, so the battery was connected to the ignition terminal. the rest - as delivered on a trailer - remains in the same condition.
I meant a “fresh” charged car battery.
for uri
: Naturally, the rest of the on-board network was de-energized.
So it turns out that simply by jumping without a battery, nothing will happen. We need to redo it, or what’s easier, put the ukkum in place. Moreover, take it off in a minute, there are no problems - Varta, Kursk, Mutla, etc. Install, start and drive.
6-volt IZ started from a pusher, without a battery. But you have to push hard 12 - Izhi, they say, were started by bluntly connecting the Crown instead of the battery. I think your modern tanks are powered. With the ignition, you can start the battery by turning off everything except the ignition, incl. generator, no problem if it's a battery issue. It may not work with the generator enabled, because... he takes a lot for his excitement.
Friday, June 7, 2013
How to make an IZH without a battery
It is best, of course, to immediately install 12-volt electrical equipment from the Voskhod-ZM motorcycle or MMB3-3.112.11. In this case, you will need: generator 43.3701, switch unit - stabilizer BKS 261.3734 or 262.3734 (do not confuse it with BKS 251.3734 - this one is intended for 6-volt mopeds), electronic switch KET-1A (only for “Jupiters”), relay-breaker direction indicators 25.3734, ignition coils B-50, B-Z00B or 2102.3705. The 12-volt S-38, S-39 or S-205 horn can be left, but the 6-volt S-37 should definitely be replaced.
You can use two C-34 6-volt AC signals in series, or one 12-volt 12.3721-10 “alternator,” but they don’t sound good. In addition, you will need to change all the lamps - if the motorcycle had 6-volt electrical equipment. The headlight FG-50, FG-38 includes an A12-50/40 lamp without any modifications, but it is better to replace the optical element with an FG-145, FG-137, FG-140 in order to use the “Zhiguli” lamp A12-45/40 with asymmetric light distribution of the “European beam” type. Let's move on to mechanical work. First of all, an adapter flange must be machined from any steel.
The one shown in Fig. 1, designed for installation on engines IZH-49, IZH-56, IZH-Yu, IZH-P, IZH-Yu2. IZH-P2, IZH-YUZ, IZH-PZ, and in Fig. 2— for engines IZH-PS, IZH-Yu4, IZH-P4, IZH-Yu5, IZH-P5. To the crankcase; the flange is attached with M5 screws through holes with a diameter of 6 mm; the generator stator is attached to the threaded holes with M5X15 screws. The most accurate way to mark the locations on the flange for the stator mounting holes is as follows: place the flange and rotor in place, move the piston (on the Jupiter - left) to TDC and, turning the stator around the rotor, find a position where the sensor is on the stator and the slot on the rotor they will be exactly opposite each other.
Now you can mark the holes, and in such a way that they are approximately in the middle of the oblong adjustment holes on the stator. It may happen that the generator does not fit under the crankcase cover. It doesn’t matter - the crankcases of the “planets” (except “PS”) and “Jupiters” of old models can be easily closed with a lid from “Planet-5” or “Jupiter-5”, respectively.
For Jupiter, the generator should be modified - a second ignition sensor should be installed on it. The first step is to move “O” and “3” to the free space opposite the terminals “D” and “D1”. Then install the second sensor in the vacant space. This work requires great precision and care. It is better to carry it out by installing a generator on the engine. Using a dial indicator, determine the TDC in one of the cylinders and adjust the slot on the rotor exactly opposite the standard sensor bracket, then tighten the stator mounting screws. Now place the piston in the Other cylinder at TDC and determine the position of the second sensor on the stator.
The accuracy requirements are the same - the sensor bracket is opposite the rotor slot. Since the old terminal holes interfere with the sensor, it must be attached differently. For example, our author S. Savinovsky in “Moto” No. 2 - 91 suggested riveting 2 steel plates 3 mm thick from the inside of the stator, cutting M4 threads into them and screwing the sensor to them. You can do it another way: rivet or screw the sensor to a 2-3 mm steel plate, and it, in turn, is secured to the stator with bandages screwed into newly drilled threaded holes. You can use the hole left from the “O” terminal if you cut an M5 or M6 thread into it. The second hole with M4 or M5 thread is drilled locally, so we do not give exact dimensions.
Messages [9]
1↑ Topic from Xz 04/28/2010 14:21:10
- Xz
- passerby
- Inactive
- Registered: 28-04-2010
- Messages: 2
Topic: How to start if there is no 6 volt battery
please tell me) I want to get a Ural from my grandfather, but I don’t have a 6 volt battery to start it, I have 12 volt current from a former Izhak, can I start it without harming the motorcycle. )
2↑ Reply from M66 04/28/2010 21:47:41
- M66
- Newbie
- Inactive
- Registered: 28-12-2009
- Messages: 23
- Reputation: 1
Re: How to start if there is no 6 volt battery
You can start Xz with a 12V battery, but you won’t be able to drive for long (you’ll burn the coil)! I drove the M66 with a 12V battery for about 14 km (the coil burned out). If that motorcycle has a normal (not scorched) generator, start it and disconnect the battery (it should run at idle) or just start it with a pushrod!
3↑ Reply from DarkGenius 04/29/2010 08:12:03
- DarkGenius
- Experienced
- Inactive
- Name: Igor
- From: Belaya Kalitva
- Registered: 16-02-2010
- Messages: 458
- Reputation: 37
- Motorcycle: Solo
Re: How to start if there is no 6 volt battery
We have developed a scheme for reviving 6v motorcycles that have been sitting for years, possibly on the street. Sometimes you buy one from your old grandfather for pennies, and you think about how to get it home on your own. Half an hour is enough to complete the following operations.
You add oil to the engine. Clean the collector (just in case from counter dust), and the relay contacts (suddenly soured) and the ignition, throw in new spark plugs. Push the motorcycle onto a hillock, or at least onto a rut in the road. You put it in second gear, squeeze the clutch, push it, put it in gear. Then the first one. And in 8 cases out of 10, the motorcycles start, and without a battery.
Source
Where is the battery located on a moped and how to connect it
Once you find yourself in an unpleasant situation with a battery in the middle of the road, you begin to think about how to avoid this again. You can get home without a battery, but if you ride for a long time, the scooter’s electronics will begin to fail. The battery requires care, so knowing where it is located and how to change it is absolutely necessary.
Connecting the battery is easier than doing any of the operations described above. Its location depends on the model. On Chinese scooters it is usually located under your feet. We remove the floor and look for a rectangular hatch. There is a place for the battery right in it. If the model is made in Japan, then you will have to check other places. The battery may be located in front of the driver's seat or under the seat.
If you don't know what kind of battery your two-wheeled friend needs, then measure the space for it before you go shopping. Or, using one of the methods, get to the seller directly on a moped.
You need to connect the battery like any other electrical device: minus to minus, and plus to plus. The terminals should be as close to the wires as possible. A red wire usually means positive, and a green or black wire usually means negative.
Work without battery
Hello! There is a wheelchair for off-road racing! Question: how to remake the Ural electrics in order to operate a motorbike without a battery. Ural motorcycle with contactless ignition system!
Bat999, install magneto. or a tractor self-exciting generator and start the pusher motor from the mountain.
BOLT777, but which one is the tractor one? And why isn’t there enough kickstarter from the pusher?
A friend had a Ural 6V, it started with Kika and worked without a battery
Dima24, and I have 12v.
It won’t work with G-424, because it doesn’t self-excite right away, but G-414 easily :) only a magneto or a st.
Bat999, g700, the kick speed is not enough to excite.
a small magnet on the rotor of a 500W generator solves this issue.. pysy: additional balancing of the rotor is required
Jazz_Man, do you really want to say that just change the generator and everything will be fine? I just think that I’ll have to increase the rotation of the generator by 2 times, otherwise it won’t work!
manowar, and if it’s not difficult, then you can be more detailed (more precisely, which magnet, etc.)
Guys. Tell me how to do it normally, maybe there is an electrical diagram. Otherwise simple statements don’t help me at all!! Your unsubscribes are somehow not welcome!
PS No offense intended!
It won’t work with G-424, because it doesn’t self-excite right away, but G-414 can easily only be a magneto or a st.
There was an article on the website “Dnepr without a battery.” Search for it. It was just said there that if you plug in the sunrise gene, you can drive without a battery.
Bat999, you pick out the hard drive, saw the magnet into 3 equal parts, epoxidize or oxy-polish these pieces with a 120-degree spread to the rotor, balance the rotor. you have a self-exciting generator at X speed. Only, it seems to me, X>500, so it will be hard to start on a kick.
Why without a battery?
Alekseich, so that during the annealing the battery does not shatter into pieces from vibration and douse the rider with super-caustic acid! Z.Y. I don't see the point in this. Install a g700 and a small battery (make rubber cushions, remove the drainage, minimize shocks and vibrations on the battery body and you will be happy.)
Alekseich, so that during the annealing the battery does not shatter into pieces from vibration and douse the rider with super-caustic acid!
Alexeich, why? At least for relief. Racing after all. And in a race it’s more reliable without a battery IMHO.
NightFish, at least someone understands why you want to go without a battery.
