Restoration and second life of the Ural M63 motorcycle 1970. part 1

Many motorcycle owners take up the task of remaking their iron horses, trying to give them individuality. At the same time, the final result obtained due to the changes made is not always satisfactory. A striking example of this is the legendary Ural motorcycle, tuning of which is associated with certain difficulties. Due to the significant prices for components, such an operation will cost more than, for example, tuning an IZH 5 Jupiter.

A little history

The products of the Irbit Motorcycle Plant are well known not only in our country. Various models, whose design originates from the pre-war BMW R71, have retained their parental genes for seventy years. True, the prefix “Ural” appeared in their name a little later. Since 1961, it has been assigned to the following modifications:

• M-62(1961 – 1963).
• M-63 (1963 - 1971) - this was the so-called Ural-2.
• M-66 (1973 – 1975) received the Ural-3 marking.

Next, it was decided to limit ourselves to the name Ural, removing the additional digital index and leaving only the factory designation.

• M-67 (1973 – 1976).
• M-67-36 (1976 – 1983).
• IMZ-8 (this model has been produced since 1985 and has many different versions).

And this is not counting special versions and limited editions. But in the process of tuning a motorcycle, any of the listed modifications have a lot in common. Despite the changes in the name, all models are similar in design and have similar technical characteristics.

Tuning or restoration?

Remaking new equipment is not very justified financially. It is cheaper to purchase a used, or even broken, copy, and first restore it. If you get your hands on a rare Ural motorcycle, restoration and repair of the rarity will bring greater dividends than the most advanced tuning. After all, in this way we restore and bring history itself back to life.

If the model is ordinary, then there will be nothing wrong with turning an ordinary Ural into a tuned one. In any case, the first step will be to restore the Ural motorcycle to working condition.

Hello BIKE POST, and its users, I haven’t posted the continuation of my story for a long time. With my Urals. Maybe someone else remembers), Now I’ve become more mature, I’m already “like” 18, a little taller, but somewhat not thicker and “thin because I’m physically fit”), who knows will understand). Please under Cat).

I kept the engine running for 6-7 minutes while my friend figured out how to take pictures from my phone))) I made fun of the campaign)

A lot of things happened to me during this time, and to the Urals too. This post will be very long! with lots of photos! Not much time has passed since the 2nd post and I scattered the Urals, more precisely it was 04/10/2013. Even then I wrote to my forum members that: “I’m throwing the Urals, I’m tired today, now I won’t hear the sound of the engine for a long time,” which turned out to be true) I was gradually throwing it alone.

Having scattered it, I slowly took up the appearance of the engine). The first thing that needed to be removed were the rough marks on the sides of the flywheel. The engine was like this.

Process.

What did I use to smooth out these scratches and uneven castings?)

Bottom line.

Then I received a parcel in the amount of 3,123.00 rubles with postage. 04/13/2013. With this content.

I immediately decided to modify the K68 carburetors) many people know why). I finished the crabs and made a hole in the knee, the drill was crap and the drill was a bit dull.

One is crooked.

And one is exactly like it came from the factory.

Next came the ignition of Saruman from Pavlik. 06/27/2013

With shipping it came out to 2850 rubles.

07/13/2013 I took everything outside and washed it and looked at the condition.

I was preparing for painting, as an enthusiast decided to paint with a refrigerator compressor!)

I even assembled a receiver for it).

There is even a diagram)

I bought some paint).

I started working and getting a couple of extra ailments...

If it weren’t for the protection, I would have rubbed off my skin pretty badly, (like a thread was pulled out) The machine caught the thread of the glove and was pulled towards the hand.

The parts have been cleaned, the stripping took a lot of time)

In the end, out of grief, I painted everything as it should be, primer paint, etc.) but in the end I went too far with the solvent), I did this with a Pulik and a refrigerator compressor, the first compressor died, I assembled the second) which sped up my work, since it looked like he was killed).

A few words about the old and the new. The old compressor got so hot that it was impossible to hold it in your hands for 15-20 minutes. The new one only heats up to a warm state.

The old compressor had an inlet who knows where!!! it did not suck from the second tube, therefore the compressor worked dry... The new compressor has 2-two outlets at the back and front, the rear sucks and blows from the front.

The old compressor seemed to have a leak inside itself since the pressure in the hose to the receiver dropped very quickly, the maximum inflation pressure was 4.5! It’s new, it holds pressure in the hose up to the receiver, I checked and stuck a pressure gauge into the hose, my hose is long so the pressure gradually increased to 8!!! I immediately turned off the compressor, thinking how the pressure would drop, oh shit! then, under pressure, the inserted monomer flies out of the hose and the hose makes a delicious Pschschsch!

The new compressor pumps the receiver much faster =) if that compressor pumped an 8l receiver to 3-4 atmospheres in 3-4 minutes, the new one pumps it in 2-3 minutes and somewhere up to 5-6 atmospheres.

There was a liquid in the refrigerator that seemed to lubricate the compressor with freon, or maybe it was freon xs, but the thing is that you still had to pour 6-10 ml of oil into it, you need to do this to maintain its condition so that it does not creak, otherwise it will soon fail. At first I was afraid that this whole mixture would end up in the spray bottle, but I was lucky, because of the long, very long hose, which is 9 meters long just to the receiver, the compressor hose goes straight vertically from top to ceiling but first has a small depression at the bottom so that the oil is like in a cup there, and drained back into the compressor, after another descent and another rise to the ceiling, and the most interesting oil does not reach the receiver =))), and even if it does, it just gets into it and remains there.

The new one also retains the original relay, which means it calmly turns itself off after a long time of operation, thermal protection, so it will be very difficult to burn it out. And the painting sped up), and I painted everything)

But that was not the problem. I decided to remove some of the jambs and paint over them) Before that, the paint had already dried for a week! I covered the layer and everything swelled up)

Like this)

Out of anger, the spray gun flew away, followed by the tank. with the words “Yes, how so?”)))

Then I kicked myself for a long time for denting the tank... Then winter came and all this had to be postponed for the winter (((

Over the winter I bought a generator from a friend with a 360W, max 420W. Everything is from the ZAZ generator, only the front is from the G424.) and the Ural gear. Got him in good shape). I sharpened the rough parts, painted them, changed the brushes, and replaced the bearings.

Ready)

I also put the wiring in order, washed off the oxides, and replaced the yellow insulation.

So the winter passed, the spring exams passed, and then work dragged on for me. Worked as a sales consultant at the CENTER Corporation, Such a... store)

At the end of August, I found a workshop, I got there by looking for a tank from Izh 56. So it turned out to be 80 meters from the garage behind school 16, that’s how it happens). There I also agreed on painting with the head of the circle, Evgeniy. I tore everything off) dragged all the spare parts of the Urals there, stripped everything down to the metal except the frame, I gave the frame a good scratch and we coated it again.

The heads had widened channels for 68 carburetors, otherwise you get a threshold.

Hydraulics (shock absorbers) have been rebuilt.

The compression in the pots was 10, this is almost without grease in the piston))

Assembly.

And so it happened, finally Saturday came (10/11/2014). Waking up in the morning at 8.40, they woke me up to go get milk, “Okay,” I thought to myself, it’s time to wake up and go to the workshop to my Uralchik). Since Evgeniy, it will only be there until 12. You probably think why did this happen? what is Saturday for?, not at all for a day off and not even for the fact that I’m going to go and do a waste of money, well, of course, it’s partly like that, but I didn’t go and do it. And starting it before a long period of inactivity takes just over a year! exact date: Wednesday, 04/10/2013. Everything was almost ready to start, the oil was filled, I was traveling by bus almost to the other end of the city. The bus was also short, except for the oncoming lane, and almost nothing was visible on the side of the road (. Apparently the engineers didn’t think that people are taller than 180 and even taller than 190. Where for me are the handrails at the window, they are below the groin, and the window starts somewhere on the same the level is only a couple of 10 centimeters higher, it’s difficult to hold on if you suddenly accelerate or brake, I’ll fly on anyone or over the handrail, I went into the middle of the bus! and in the back part I almost rest my head on the ceiling, and there’s a window there’s almost nothing visible anymore) even if I roll over on one leg and bend the other one so that I can somehow be lower and see out the window where I’m going. I was riding in a good old leather jacket, the one that was in photo 2 of the post, where I am on a motorcycle, and in the background there are felt boots on the wall. I arrived, left, went to the workshop, greeted Evgeniy, said okay, I’ll quickly get some gasoline, take my 20-liter canister and hit the road. 400 rubles in my pocket. I got to the TATNEFT gas station and they filled me up with 400 rubles worth of 12.95 liters of 92nd, the price of gasoline was 30.90 rubles. I got the gasoline, installed it and was thinking about how to implement the plan and start it today, sat down to think, the idea was to “install the tank” right away, but I don’t have the edging, it’s short, install it to remove it in bulk, no, it won’t work, and then I decided to tighten it, I pulled it, and Evgeniy heated it, in the end it was overheated on coal and I tore it...), then I definitely couldn’t install a tank, I then decided to make a temporary can and pour gasoline from it into dry, brand new carburetors, the ignition was set up last time. Let's think about starting it, but otherwise the Akum sat down), the time for charging was already 11.24, it stood until 11.32, I took it off and put it on the bike. And then, he kicked, two hands on himself, and then Chuk... chuk... chuk chuk. and already picking up speed, it shoots at the air filter. then I release the throttle handle, and it’s idling, “choo choo choo, choo choo choo choo.” Not even what came over me, but at that moment a lot of feelings arose at once, fear, joy, excitement, a state of almost shock, exactly like that , if he were an epileptic, a seizure would be guaranteed). The heart made it known, the pressure rose, the hands became stone, the fingers did not even want to obey normally, but it was necessary to take a screwdriver and adjust the carburetors a little, realizing that this needed to be calmed down, I was about to take the screwdriver, my hands were trembling partly, then when one carburetor was slightly adjusted hearing, I reached out to the second one, I was already calming down, after standing there, looking at the Urals, 5 minutes passed at Evgeniy, and then the time came, I turned off the engine, got dressed, and on the way, after 4 minutes, I returned to normal.

Well, okay, “the setting is waiting,” I thought as I left the workshop. The ignition worked earlier once on the throttle handle, he shot at the carburetor, and I adjusted the carbs with a mixture quality indicator (IKS-1).

Final view. for now.

And now I have 2 more wards). both have already been dismantled, they are waiting for hands to reach them)

So the dangerous “our first steps pushed us towards the motorcycle” To be continued. The text is large) there is a lot of stuff, so please don’t punish me for any mistakes).

Choosing a case that suits your needs

Having set the goal of tuning a Ural motorcycle with your own hands, it is important to understand that there are modifications that are relatively painless and do not require documentary evidence to register the vehicle and undergo a technical inspection.

And there are changes that, in order not to conflict with the law, must be agreed upon with the manufacturer or other regulatory authorities. Based on this, tuning for a Ural motorcycle should be divided into two categories:

• Painless, after which there will be no additional paper problems.
• Complex, ideally requiring official paper approval.

We will consider each of these categories separately.

Painless changes

You should not assume that any painless tuning for a Ural motorcycle will be easy to do. But, as they say, hunting is worse than bondage. For clarity, we will divide possible alterations into external and internal. The external ones are aimed at correcting the veteran’s appearance, while the internal ones will affect his driving performance and technical characteristics.

Appearance correction

Classic shapes, characteristic of all models without changing, go well with an abundance of chrome parts. Since chromium has good anti-corrosion resistance, it is not forbidden to use it even in the most unexpected places. After this processing, many details will look good:

• Front and rear wings.
• Fuel tank.
• Side panels.
• Engine crankcase, cylinders and cylinder heads.
• Frame and suspension elements.

But if there is no opportunity or desire to do chrome plating, high-quality painting of a Ural motorcycle can be an alternative. There will be room to turn around, especially if you have a modification with a stroller.

Good results can be achieved by installing wings of a different style and size, a different fuel tank, roll bars and even optics. Many favorite modifications - installing a high steering wheel and new control handles, altering the seat - without the right approach, they worsen the rider's position, making it less comfortable. Such changes should be made with caution.

Inner harmony

Many owners start tuning the Urals to improve the technical characteristics of the motorcycle. Despite some orthodoxy in the design of the engine and gearbox, there is room for improvement here. The following steps can be taken:

• Installation of crankshaft (crank) support bearings, the quality of which is better than standard ones. It is not recommended to reduce the size of the support necks themselves. After all, this removes the heat-treated layer and reduces the strength of the critical elements.
• Reduced weight of pistons and connecting rods. Excess mass of these parts leads to an increase in the moment of inertia and a decrease in engine power. Even simply by removing the casting flash, you can significantly reduce the weight and increase the effective output of the power unit.
• Alignment and grinding of inlet and outlet channels. Grinding in valves. Such procedures will improve the filling of the cylinders with the combustible mixture.
• Manufacturing a new camshaft with a different cam profile, allowing the valve timing to be changed. This is a complex engine tuning that requires special knowledge.
• Installation of new carburetors. A well-proven measure that allows you to get rid of failure during acceleration, which is characteristic of all IMZ models without exception.
  This is due to the fact that the manufacturer equips the equipment with variable-discharge carburetors, which are poorly suited for four-stroke motorcycle engines. You can get rid of this by equipping the motorcycle with suitable constant-vacuum carburetors. Both Mikuni and Keihin have such models. To optimize operation, the flow area of ​​the nozzles will need to be adjusted. Ideally, such modifications are carried out on a special stand. In the absence of one, one has to be content with fitting in road conditions. After such engine modernization, the Ural will accelerate much more confidently.
• Replacing standard air filters with others that have similar throughput but less resistance.
• Installation of inertial boost. This will only work if you purchase components from a reputable manufacturer. There are often low-quality or even non-functional components on the market.
• Manufacturing of new gearbox gears. Despite the relative labor intensity, this motorcycle tuning is more than justified. Original gears are often not of high quality and not only make it difficult to change gears, but also make noise during operation.
• Installation of alloy wheels. Such modernization is not always justified. A cast wheel, if it is not spoked, will look ridiculous on a classic.

Whether you make all the upgrades, or just some, in any case, tuning the Ural motorcycle engine will be completely justified.

Restoring a Ural motorcycle (43 photos)

Restoration and modification of the Ural 8103 motorcycle (43 photos).

As you know, the Soviet heavy-duty motorcycle, the Ural, is a continuation of the development of the M-72 motorcycle, which in turn is a copy of the German BMW R-71 motorcycle.

In the Urals, opposed, four-stroke, two-cylinder air-cooled engines are installed. Manual transmission with reverse speed. Torque to the rear wheel is carried out by a cardan transmission.

In this article we will look at the restoration of one of these motorcycles. Also, the author improved his Ural, installed a clutch from a Moskvich-407 car, the tank was remade in the shape of a drop, the headlight was changed, the old side trailer mounts were removed, the gearbox is from a Dnepr motorcycle, a 9-ka planetary gear, a step seat with a backrest, Voyage roll bars new wiring on car relays, a 500W generator, a barrel filter from a Dnepr motorcycle, a new fork and shock absorbers after restoration, K-65 USSR carburetors, the engine was overhauled, new tires, the internal combustion engine is installed in the center.

The flywheel was lightened, the inner part of the metal was removed using a lathe, which contributed to more dynamic operation of the motorcycle.

And so, let's look at the process of restoration and modernization of components and assemblies of the Ural motorcycle in the photo.

This is the condition the motorcycle was in.

The motorcycle was completely disassembled, the parts were washed from dirt.

Next, sandblasting: the frame and cladding were cleaned of rust and old paint.

Engine and gearbox repair.

Painting.

The flywheel was lightened and the process involved removing excess metal on the lathe. Clutch from a Moskvich -407 car.

Final assembly of the motorcycle.

And now, the result of the work is a restored and modernized Ural motorcycle!

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Complex modifications

It is not difficult to guess that this category does not include external changes. But the internal ones are quite enough. Carrying out tuning with their own hands, some owners make adjustments to the design of the motorcycle that are prohibited by law.

• Installation of new mufflers. Despite its apparent simplicity, such modernization requires documentary approval. Otherwise, you will not be able to officially pass the technical inspection.
• Frame modification. Having an impact on the strength of the structure, such tuning for the Ural motorcycle requires preliminary calculations, the results of which are confirmed by specialists.
• Making changes to the brake system. In this case, problems during technical inspection will not be limited to. For unauthorized alteration of brakes, the law does not even provide for a fine, but a real sentence. If you are tuning a Ural motorcycle with your own hands and decide to replace the brake drums with more efficient discs, you must coordinate such changes with IMZ representatives, having received documented permission from them.

Motor defective

The process of disassembling the motor is quite complicated, but what is more important is that the existing gaps “go away.” Thus, if you disassemble the motor and then reassemble it without repair, extraneous noise is likely to appear due to the increase in gaps. Therefore, experienced mechanics advise, first of all, to assess the condition of the motor without disassembling the main elements, or to carry out a partial disassembly, then carry out troubleshooting and, based on its results, decide whether to make repairs or not. A malfunction can be determined “by ear” if:

• The engine rings loudly during operation, in all speed ranges, and the ringing partially turns into loud noise when the engine is warm and at high speeds.
  

  Reason: wear of the piston pin and the appearance of an excessively large gap between the pin and the bushing. Solution: first of all, you can set the ignition later, in some cases this either completely eliminates the noise, or it becomes insignificant, which allows you to use the motorcycle for some time. If this does not help, then the old pins are replaced with new ones, as well as the connecting rod bushings with their subsequent development.

• The engine rings, tapping is slightly audible, the sound is dull, increasing under load and at high speeds.
  

  Reason: the appearance of a gap between the pin and the piston boss. Solution: replace the pin + piston set with new ones of the same group.

• The engine knocks metal on metal at idle, and at high speeds there is a strong ringing and vibration.
  

  Reason: clearance between piston and cylinder. Solution: selecting a new piston of the next repair size and boring the cylinder for a new piston group.

• A dull knock in the crankcase area, clearly audible at idle and when releasing gas.
  

  Reason: This sound may indicate an increase in the gap between the lower end of the connecting rod and the crankshaft crank pin.

By the behavior of the motorcycle you can find out about the following problems:

• High oil consumption, loss of power and excessive exhaust smoke.
  

  Cause: worn piston rings. Solution: complete replacement of the piston rings, and if there is damage to the cylinder plane, boring it, with subsequent repairs.

Owners of the Ural motorcycle most often encounter similar problems. As you can see, most problems are diagnosed by craftsmen “by ear”, and despite all the primitiveness, the result turns out to be very accurate. Assuming there is a problem with the motor, you should stock up on a set of necessary pullers, keys and repair parts, and only then begin disassembly.

The main thing is experience

If you are taking on a motorcycle modification for the first time, you should first experiment with some simpler model. For example, perform tuning of Voskhod 3M - an interesting and very popular model at one time, produced in Kovrov. Thus, you will approach work on the Urals already having some experience. This will help you avoid annoying mistakes.

Previous entry Adjusting the ignition on a Ural motorcycle

Next entry Installing one carburetor on a Ural motorcycle

Advantages and disadvantages of the Ural motorcycle

The Soviet classics appealed to motorcyclists all over the world because of the following advantages:

• excellent maintainability and reliability. In most cases, a motorcycle can be easily repaired in the field, because its design is quite simple. If you properly care for your equipment, it can last for several decades. And the domestic bike is not picky about the quality of oil and fuel;
• high cross-country ability. Perhaps the main advantage for which the motorcycle was valued during the war years, being a full-fledged combat unit. All Ural models feel great off-road, but at high speeds they lose stability.

Heavy Ural motorcycles are loved by Russian and foreign consumers.
They are not without their drawbacks:

• high fuel consumption at low speed. Experienced motorists reduce gasoline consumption through modernization, so this disadvantage can be combated;
• high price. The price of a new Ural motorcycle ranges from 500 to 650 thousand rubles, which is comparable to buying a new budget foreign car. The cost of motorcycles increased due to the fact that developers began to use foreign-made spare parts for the Ural motorcycle, which led to an increase in production costs.