How to install a starter on a Ural motorcycle avtopraim.ru

Equipping a motorcycle with a starter in most cases is determined by the owner’s desire for convenience and practicality, less often - by urgent need. In some cases, for example, when the technical feature of the unit does not allow it to be equipped with a crank, installing this module is the only way out.

A starter is an electromechanical device designed to start an internal combustion engine. The device is a powerful mixed-excitation electric motor powered by direct current provided by the on-board battery.

Installing a starter on a Ural motorcycle with your own hands

Fans and simply owners of Ural motorcycles own not just a means of transportation, but a thing that shaped an entire generation of bikers. Alas, age makes itself felt and it manifests itself in unpleasant little things. This can be considered the absence of a starter. The problem is not critical, but it causes some inconvenience. Craftsmen who began to adapt a starter from a car to their bike helped solve the issue. Today we will tell you how to install a starter on a Ural motorcycle with your own hands.

How to install a STARTER on the URAL/DNEPR with your own hands? Motorcycle repair Ural #31

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Installing the starter took me quite a long time, firstly, because I was doing it for the first time, and secondly, this process is not at all simple and requires some skill. If you are also planning to install a starter on your Ural or Dnepr motorcycle, then this video, I think, will help you see some solutions, and will also help you avoid some of the mistakes that happened to me.

What do you even need?

Well, first of all, it's the starter itself. I bought it from Pramo-Electro, which is a little more expensive than its counterparts, but has a more compact size, which allows it to look harmonious on a motorcycle, and also, importantly, does not require bending the kickstarter lever. Secondly, you need to purchase a special mounting plate and a starter ring, which is installed instead of the last clutch disc. I purchased this set - plate and crown - from Ivan 66 (https://vk.com/motorazborperm)

But as always happens, you can’t just go and install a starter on a Ural motorcycle. I started by giving my original Ural flywheel to a turner so that he would align all the fingers horizontally, grind off 2-3 mm of the flywheel skirt and reduce the diameter of the intermediate clutch disc so that it would begin to fit into the starter ring.

After modifying the flywheel, I decided to try to assemble a clutch in this flywheel and it turned out that the holes in the flywheel pins and the holes for the countersunk bolts did not match - sad thing. I had to widen the holes on the starter ring. Having allocated one evening for this, we managed to fit everything and the crown was securely attached to the flywheel.

I put the flywheel with the starter ring installed in its place on the crankshaft and tried to figure out the gearbox housing, but I was unable to do this. The reason for this turned out to be special centering bosses on the gearbox, which began to rest against the teeth of the starter ring. The grinder is in hand and the hot flashes at the checkpoint are gone))) Now the checkpoint is working great.

It was decided to replace the gearbox mounting studs with bolts, simply because the length of the original studs is not enough to install the starter.

Finally, I’m starting to install the starter, or more precisely, I’m starting to cut the gearbox housing so that this starter can fit there. I applied the plate to the place where the starter should be located and cut the corresponding hole in the gearbox. Now the starter fits in without problems, but does not fit tightly to the plate, since the starter rests its body against the gearbox mounting bolt. I can’t do without this bolt, so I decided to replace it with an internal hexagon bolt, and make a hole in the starter housing for it. We sorted out the checkpoint.

Next, I decided to cut a suitable hole in the crankcase, but noticed that the starter would completely block the technological hole for setting TDC. But I wouldn’t want to lose it completely. Then I made exactly the same hole on the other side of the crankcase and set the top dead center value on the flywheel. Now nothing will stop me from cutting a hole in the crankcase for the starter.

The hole has been cut out. And then a very timely thought comes to my mind: how to set the engagement gap between the bendix and the starter ring? It is impossible to do this with the gearbox installed, since it blocks the entire view. Then I decided to measure the distance from the starter plate to the edge of the crankcase. In both the upper and lower mounts the distance was 26mm. Now I’ll dismantle the gearbox and simply hang the starter on the bolts, placing it in exactly the same way as with the gearbox, i.e. at a distance of 26mm from the crankcase.

After connecting the battery, the starter began to turn the Ural engine. And in my opinion, it’s very good!))) No unnecessary noise or ringing can be heard.

I hope that the starter will only please me on my journey.

Excellent crankshaft oil seal for the rear cover of a Ural motorcycle. Manufacturer: Toyota. Japan. Catalog number: 90310-50006. Average price in stores: 350 rub.

_____________________________ ABOUT THE CHANNEL “SANYA CHETODEL”

As you might guess, they called me that because I am constantly doing something. I really love working and creating things with my own hands. At the same time, I constantly force myself to learn something new and unknown. For example, in these videos I am repairing an old Ural motorcycle, on which, based on the results of the repair, I plan to go on a trip to Crimea. This motorcycle will not only receive a complete overhaul, but will also undergo some tuning. I talk in detail about everything I do with the motorcycle in the playlist “Ural Motorcycle Repair”

Why do you need a starter?

Some models of modern motorcycles are equipped with starters due to the lack of a crank. Here, the presence of a starter is assumed initially. However, in other cases it serves only for the convenience of the rider. There is no need to practice every time before a trip, especially if the valves or ignition are not adjusted.

The Ural, due to its archaic nature, did not even imply the installation of a starter. At the time of the release of the first motorcycles, the starter was a luxury that a Soviet citizen could not afford, and then the design was preserved because of its reliability.

Installing an electric starter on a Ural motorcycle will save you from an overinflated right leg and sudden injuries to the kneecap, so the procedure can be considered as simplifying the life of the rider.

Stages of how to install a starter on a Ural motorcycle

In order to install a starter on Ural motorcycles, it is necessary to perform a certain sequence of actions.

To work you need to purchase the following things:

plate to secure the starter to the engine,
gear flywheel for Ural motorcycle,
starter,
battery.

They are:

Purchasing everything needed to get the job done
Sawing small sections of the engine and gearbox housing of the Ural motorcycle,
Installation of the toothed flywheel at the engine cut point,
Replacing standard size studs in a gearbox with much larger studs,
Installing the starter along with the plate.

Selecting the ring gear and starter

First of all, we pay attention to the flywheel of the motor, it is the key for further work. Its rotation, when viewed from the gearbox, occurs counterclockwise, which means you need to select a starter that rotates in the opposite direction (clockwise). Here are the models that suit us:

It is also possible to install a starter in the Urals from a number of models suitable for imported cars. The problem with such starters is their high cost, which also applies to modern VAZ car models. Here, choose for yourself what is your priority - the cost of the part or the service life.

Pay attention to the presence of the casing and its orientation. The method of fastening the part and further ease of maintenance will depend on this parameter. Rotating the starter relative to its own axis is not advisable and can lead to its breakdown.

Now you need to pick up the crown. The crown is a gear lining on the flywheel that transmits the rotation of the starter to the engine through a gear transmission. The problem is that purchasing the part is quite problematic. A spare part from the Buran snowmobile, as well as more modern domestic motorcycles “Voyage”, “Cobra”, “Wolf” can be suitable for the size of the flywheel. The size of the teeth of the first ring is 2.5, and the modulus of the last three is 2.2. This parameter must be related to the starter module.

If the modules do not match, there are several options to solve the problem:

We change the starter ring/gear to one that matches the module.
We adjust the teeth of the existing starter ring or gear to the module.
We make the starter ring or drive gear from scratch.

Do-it-yourself Ural motorcycle tuning. Installing a starter from a VAZ 2110 on a Ural motorcycle

Installing a starter from a VAZ 2110 on a Ural motorcycle

You need to purchase or make:

1. A plate for attaching the starter to the engine body. 2. A toothed flywheel from a Ural Voyage or Ural Wolf motorcycle or made by a turner. 3. Starter from a VAZ 2110 car 4. Battery with a capacity of 20Ah

Using a grinder, we make cuts in the engine housing and in the gearbox housing.

Install the flywheel with ring gear on the engine

Instead of standard studs, we install elongated studs in the top fastening of the box. We install the plate with the starter in place:

We select the thickness of the washer-nut-washer-plate package experimentally so that the bendex gear, when the retractor relay is turned on, fully engages with the ring gear, and when turned off, it disengages.

We connect the thick wire of the solenoid relay to the positive of the battery, and connect the thin wire through the “female” connector through a separate relay to the start button.

See the video for the final result:

Photos and materials were kindly provided to the editors by Igor Simonov

Starter fastener

First of all, we determine the place of attachment of the element. The most popular is the upper left side above the flywheel. In this case, we will only be faced with the need to cut out a window for engaging the starter gears. It is difficult to install the starter in the center or on the right side, due to the need to redo a number of engine elements.

For installation, a hole is cut out under the Bendix casing. Next, measurements are taken, and the starter mount is cut out of a 4mm thick sheet of steel. This thickness is necessary to withstand the loads that the fasteners experience during operation of the starter mechanism. In a similar way, you can make not one solid, but a pair of fasteners. This way you can simplify the process of making fasteners, but adjusting the gaps will become much more difficult.

Advice. For greater solidity of the structure, it is best to secure the starter tail rigidly to the motor or grab it with a clamp.

The finished plate is secured with bolts or pinched with argon, then a trial assembly is carried out. Now you need to make sure that the gaps are set:

the gap between the flywheel gear and the roller clutch is 2-4 mm;
between the bendix and the crown is 3-7 mm.

Next, the flywheel is rotated, observing the coincidence of the pitch of the bendix and the ring. In this case, rotation of the flywheel is ensured using a kickstarter. Once you are sure that everything is working as expected, you can perform a test turn by unscrewing the spark plugs. If the starter rotates the flywheel without any extraneous sounds, then the plate can be permanently welded with argon.

Important! Welding of the gearbox housing is possible only after dismantling all rubber parts, installing the primary and secondary shafts and securing the cover with 4 bolts.

STARTER: INSTALLATION

In the bitter winter, instead of sleeping like everyone else, my friends and I decided to build ourselves a chopper. We “dug up” two “Urals”, “Dnepr” and - forward. To make something look beautiful, to chrome something is not a question, but to start it with a button is a yes! Three problems arose and we solved them in our shed.

The first is the starter ring. It was developed and produced in Rybinsk and installed on the Buran snowmobile. We bought it without a snowmobile - separately, attached it to the flywheel, centered it and marked the holes for attaching the crown to the struts of the clutch drive discs. We drilled it out and countersunk it for the bolts to be flush-mounted. We drill the holes of the external drive disk to the diameter of the posts (with an allowance of 0.5 mm).

Rice. 1. Refinement of the starter ring of the “Buran” snowmobile: 1 - ring; 2 — mounting holes for the flywheel; 3 - “extra” part of the crown.

The second problem is the starter itself. Here the unit from the starting engine of the T-170 tractor came in handy. You can also use a starter from a Vikhr-30 outboard motor - brand ST-367A.

Rice. 2. Starter mounting part (welded to the engine crankcase).

The third is to install the starter. First, we selected the starter mounting bracket. In shape it resembles part of a bell, inside of which you need to place the starter more tightly. We did not saw this part, but found a suitable one - part of the crankcase of the starting engine (therefore we do not give exact dimensions).

Rice. 3. Assembly drawing of the electric start system: 1 - starter mounting part; 2 - crown; 3 - starter; 4 - clamp; 5 — bracket for fastening the rear part of the starter; 6 - flywheel.

Then a cutout was made in the clutch housing for the starter mount, the engine was assembled for final welding of the starter mount: the crankshaft and flywheel with a crown are inserted into it.

Next, the bendix fork was removed from the starter, and the bendix itself was fixed in the “on” position. The starter assembly with the fastening part was placed with the Bendix gear on the flywheel crown and “grabbed” by argon-arc welding. By rotating the flywheel, we checked the correct installation of the starter on the lateral engagement of the gears and the radial clearance between them. After adjusting the starter, the fastening part was finally welded.

To more securely fix the starter, its rear part was crimped with a powerful clamp made of a 3 mm thick steel strip. A plate is welded to the clamp, which is attached to the rear cover of the gearbox. Where necessary, the stiffening ribs and air filter mounts on the gearbox housing were filed down. That's all!

So putting the starter on the boxer turned out to be easier than steaming a turnip. And there was no need for a measurer. The tools used were a drill, a file and a hacksaw. True, we had to go to the regional center to get some argon, but that’s not like looking for a jig boring machine.

text: Vladimir NESTEROV, Nugush village, Bashkortostan drawing: Oleg VOEVODOV

Battery and alternator problems

After installing the starter on a Ural motorcycle with your own hands is completed, a couple of unresolved problems remain. First of all, a car starter requires a more powerful battery. The way out of the situation is to install an inexpensive battery on a new mount (from the side of the motorcycle. Everything will look quite rough, but it’s inexpensive.

Another way is to select an imported battery of a similar size with an increased capacity of 18 A/h. You will have to overpay quite a bit, but the appearance of the motorcycle will not suffer.

Finally, it turns out that the original generator is rather weak and is unable to charge a new battery. We’ll answer right away that rewinding will help increase productivity, but it will not be enough for our purposes. What should we do then? There are several options:

generator from IMZ. There is a cheap model 14.3771, which fits perfectly, even without modifications to our motorcycle. Its biggest drawback is its terrible build quality. The generator often fails. The solution is modern models of the DENSO brand, which are equipped with these motorcycles.
imported car generator. The problem here is its installation. If you choose to extend the shaft and install it through a faceplate, please note that all work must be performed with high precision. Also, such generators can be installed using a belt drive. The method has a lot of advantages, especially its unpretentiousness. All you need to do is monitor the condition of the belt and check the cavity of the generator cover for dirt every 10–15 thousand.

The disadvantages of such a modification are decreased engine power and increased shaft load. On the other hand, power can be increased in other ways, but engine load cannot be avoided.

Instructions for installing the device yourself

You can find out how to install a starter on a Ural motorcycle below (the author of the video is Absolut Snab).

Required set of tools and materials

stationery for marking;
Bulgarian;
washers, nuts, spokes.

We will find out how to install a starter in the Urals below.

Installation process

Installation of the starter on a Ural motorcycle is carried out at the top of the gearbox. You can install it in the left one, but then you will need to remove the foot or modify the device. First you need to mark a sample of the starter housing and gearbox. After this, using the prepared grinder or machine, cut out the required places on the sample. Fastening can occur in several ways.

Using a plate. It can be purchased at a specialty store or made by yourself. It is important that the plate has a central hole and prepared clamps for attaching to the motor housing. The gearbox mounting spokes must be replaced with longer ones. When designing a device with a plate, washers and nuts must be prepared of the appropriate thickness so that when turned on, the Bendix gear is secured to the flywheel ring.

Flywheel

If installation is carried out using a duralumin clamp, which is welded to the gearbox, you need to ensure that deformation does not occur. To do this, you must remove all rubber parts before work.

The plate is welded to the crankcase, previously secured with two pre-prepared nuts. No matter what mounting method is chosen, the load on the plate will be removed by attaching the rear of the product to the outside of the bike. Once it is in place, you need to adjust the necessary gaps.

Effortless: installing an electric starter on a motorcycle

Starting a motorcycle with a kickstarter can require a lot of effort, which is why many owners of domestic equipment often abandon it in favor of inexpensive foreign analogues. However, Russian motorcycles have their advantages, represented by ease of tuning, low cost of spare parts, as well as low sensitivity to fuel quality and the reliability of most components. That is why experienced owners of two-wheeled domestic vehicles often install an electric starter on a motorcycle - such an operation can make the Ural or Dnepr much more convenient. This also applies to small-capacity budget-class foreign motorcycles, which are also often equipped only with a kickstarter. Let's look at the procedure for installing an electric starter using domestic technology as an example.

Selection of parts

The best option is electric starters from the Kherson plant, which are used in tractor starting engines, as well as in small-class boat engines. However, you need to be very careful in choosing components - components marked ST353, 367 or 369 are suitable for the Ural. You should not purchase the ST366 starter, which was installed on the Zaporozhets - it has a reverse direction and a different shape of the Bendix casing, incompatible with a motorcycle engine . For such an electric starter, you should purchase a crown from the Buran snowmobile - it requires only minimal modification. Be careful - you need a unit with a top-mounted retractor relay, since, being located at the bottom, it will interfere with changing the oil in the engine.

It is also possible to install an electric starter from a VAZ-2109 car or a more modern unit from a VAZ-2110, but in this case you will have to make the crown yourself, using a professional metalworking machine. To create a spare part, it is better to use steel grade 40-X or another that meets the hardness standard 35-42 HRC/E. For imported motorcycles, the electric starter must be selected especially carefully - many owners of two-wheeled equipment say that components from industrial generators or powerful garden equipment are a suitable option. However, you will definitely have to grind the crown for the starter yourself, since unification is a distinctive feature of domestic motorcycles.

There are several options for attaching an electric starter to a boxer motorcycle engine:

More powerful and longer gearbox studs are made, after which a duralumin plate with a pre-drilled hole with a diameter of 76 mm for the unit casing is put on them. This option is rarely used due to its low strength and negative impact on the service life of the electric starter;
A composite mount in the form of two crescents is made from duralumin, which is welded from below to the gearbox housing. Be careful - during the argon welding process, all rubber elements of the transmission must be removed, but the shafts and covers should be left in place, since their absence can cause serious deformation of the crankcase;
A solid duralumin plate is made and welded to the gearbox casing. The bad option is that it forces you to completely remove the contact oil filter, disrupting the normal operation of the transmission.

On foreign motorcycles, installing a starter is complicated by the lack of serious developments in this area. Therefore, you will have to show some engineering savvy and make an appropriate mount or adapter plate that will not interfere with other components.

Before installation, you need to carefully sand the surface of the electric starter stop with a grinding machine to achieve a perfect fit of the part. To properly secure the starter flange, you need to remove the solenoid relay, and also move the bendix fully forward to understand what its operating position will be. The unit is fixed using a flange, after which it is necessary to check the tightness of its fit and the stability of the position. Now you need to set the optimal gaps that will allow you to achieve stable operation of the device.

Between the gear located on the starter and the flywheel ring, you should leave a distance of 5–7 mm - to set it, you can use foil folded many times. You also need to leave a gap of 2–4 mm between the ring and the roller clutch, which is located immediately behind the gear. It should be measured in the rest position, and not in the operating state of the starter, which will allow the unit to achieve stable operation. If you purchased a used starter, make sure that its bronze-graphite bushings are not worn out and also match the diameter of the axle shaft - otherwise the reliability of the part will be significantly reduced, and starting the engine will be accompanied by unpleasant sounds.

When the starter position is set, it must be removed in order to finally weld the flange to the gearbox housing. You can do this yourself, but you will need equipment for argon welding. Make sure all the parts are in place and start working. Remember that after welding the metal must cool on its own, since its forced cooling will lead to a significant decrease in the strength of the joint.

After the metal has cooled, assemble the starter on the flange and make sure that its gear does not move away from the ring even under fairly strong loads on the assembly body. Now you can connect the electric starter to the battery - during operation it should create a monotonous sound, and also rotate the gear without blocking or braking. In addition, it is worth checking how easily it engages and disengages with the crown. Unfortunately, installing an electric starter may interfere with the operation of the engine start pedal. Since it is not advisable to completely remove it, it is better to simply change the shape of the part, while maintaining a backup method of starting the motor.

Installation

There are several options for attaching an electric starter to a boxer motorcycle engine:

More powerful and longer gearbox studs are made, after which a duralumin plate with a pre-drilled hole with a diameter of 76 mm for the unit casing is put on them. This option is rarely used due to its low strength and negative impact on the service life of the electric starter;
A composite mount in the form of two crescents is made from duralumin, which is welded from below to the gearbox housing. Be careful - during the argon welding process, all rubber elements of the transmission must be removed, but the shafts and covers should be left in place, since their absence can cause serious deformation of the crankcase;
A solid duralumin plate is made and welded to the gearbox casing. The bad option is that it forces you to completely remove the contact oil filter, disrupting the normal operation of the transmission.

Additional work

Since the standard electrical system of the Ural motorcycle, as well as the circuit of most imported vehicles, is not designed to operate equipment with a starter, modifications will have to be made to it. At the slightest drop in ambient temperature, starting problems may arise - the starter will quickly discharge the battery, which will force you to recharge it and subsequently use the pedal. Experienced motorcyclists recommend installing a battery from a Japanese car from the 90s on a two-wheeled vehicle. This battery has compact dimensions and a fairly large capacity - up to 65 Ah.

DIY tuning

The starter installation procedure described above requires fairly good skill and special equipment. Therefore, if you do not have an argon welding machine or a lathe, you should find out in advance where you can use the services of professionals of the appropriate profile. All manufactured fastening parts and gears must have minimum tolerances, since the reliability of the installed electric starter depends on this. The starter itself must be in good technical condition - to make sure of this, it is worth checking the bushings and shaft. If all these conditions are met, the electric starter will serve you for many years, providing maximum convenience for starting your motorcycle engine.

Installing a starter on a Ural motorcycle with your own hands

Installing a starter on a Dnepr motorcycle

As standard, Soviet motorcycles such as the Dnepr or Ural start only with a kickstarter. And if the engine runs normally, starts with two or three pokes, a kickstarter is enough. But still, many motto owners would not mind modernizing their horses by adding such a unit as an electric starter to their design. It gives the motorcycle a more modern look and makes starting the engine easier. Moreover, the design changes to the crankcase are minimal and the modification itself is not so complicated.

List of parts: — Starter from a Vikhr motor boat or a Zaporozhets car; — Crown under the starter; — Metal plate for mounting the starter; - Drill, grinder.

Also, to operate the starter you will need a more powerful battery than the standard one. It is recommended to use batteries with a capacity of at least 18 ampere hours.

You need to start by installing the crown.

To do this, the box is removed from the engine and the six bolts holding the clutch discs are unscrewed. The crown is installed instead of the last disc. The size of the crown is slightly larger than the size of the disk and it will interfere with the installation of the box in its place. There are two ways to fix this: The first is to shorten the pins that hold the clutch discs by 3mm, the second is to cut off the box guides protruding from the crankcase.

Second stage

will manufacture the starter mounting plate. This plate will be attached to the two upper studs that hold the gearbox. Three holes are drilled in it - two for fastening the starter, one for fastening to the studs. It would be better to drill the second hole when accurately fitting the starter to the ring gear teeth. This is roughly what it should look like:

Then a hole for the starter is cut out in the engine crankcase using a grinder. Through it, the starter will interact with the crown. It is cut out on the box and on the engine separately, after which the box is put on the engine.

Next, the rotating ring gear needs to be mechanically pulled out from the starter. The easiest way to do this is to remove the retractor mechanism and press the lever there. Then the starter is installed in place, and the gear travel is checked. It should move freely forward and backward, while making good contact with the crown when extended. If the gap between them is too large, this will lead to increased wear of the teeth, and if it is too small, it will cause unpleasant sounds when starting the engine. When the starter has found its place, the remaining hole for the stud is marked and drilled. All bolts are tightened and the starter is in place. Next, a test run of the engine is carried out.

Choosing a starter

Before installing an electric starter on a Ural motorcycle, you should familiarize yourself with the technical parameters of the motor of this vehicle. The latest models of the two-wheeled legend are equipped with a four-stroke flat-twin engine with a displacement of 745 cm3 and a power of 40 hp.

For installation, both on the specified engine and on other creations of IMZ and KMZ, models ST-353, ST-367, ST-369 or “donor” ones from VAZ 2109, 21099, 2110 and 21011 are most often used. Their characteristic feature is rotation of the drive clockwise, widespread and low cost. This component can also be taken from foreign cars (Skoda, Mitsubishi, Toyota, etc.), but due to the relative high cost, their use is less common.

You should also pay attention to the crown of the device. If its diameter or tooth pitch differs from what we need, then this part must be modified. Its implementation is achieved by disassembling the starter and removing the axial shaft with the gear attached to it. The teeth of the latter are ground off, while the inner part remains intact. The inside diameter of a suitable gear is bored enough so that it can be pressed onto the outside of the ground part. After pressing, both components are welded, and the seams are ground together.

Selection options

An electric starter in the Urals is installed after all the technical characteristics of the vehicle have been determined. Often, car enthusiasts take advantage of the opportunity, if available, and introduce models from a donor car - the VAZ 2109 and its modifications.

Read also: Truth and legends about the Parisian catacombs

You can use a product from other foreign-made machines, but it will cost a little more. When choosing a part, you should also take a closer look at the crown of the device. If the diameter and pitch of the teeth do not meet the requirements, then you need to disassemble the structure of the device and remove the axial shaft with gears. Its teeth are worn down. The diameter expands from the inside so that it can be pressed onto the front side of the ground part. Then they are welded to each other.

Installation process

Assembly drawing of the electric start system:

starter mounting part;
crown;
starter;
clamp;
starter rear mounting bracket;
flywheel.

Do-it-yourself installation of the starter on a Ural motorcycle is done at the gearbox (often in the upper part). Installation can also be done on the left side , but in this case you will have to sacrifice the kick starter foot, or reconsider its design.

The first step is to mark the sample of the starter housing and gearbox. Then cut out the marked areas using a grinder or milling machine. Among the possible options for mounting the starter, the three most popular are:

Using a solid steel or duralumin plate. Purchased or made independently, it must have a central hole and fastenings to the engine housing. The standard gearbox fixing spokes are replaced with elongated ones. When installing a starting device with a plate, washers and nuts should be selected of such thickness that when turned on, the bendex gear fully engages with the flywheel ring and similarly comes out of the clutch when turned off.
Using two separate or one continuous (semi-monthly) lower duralumin clamp welded to the gearbox. In this case, to avoid deformation, all rubber parts from the gearbox housing must be removed.
A solid duralumin plate is secured with 2 bolts and welded to the gearbox housing.

With any of these types of fastening, the load on the connecting plate is removed by fixing the rear of the starter to the motorcycle body. Next, with the device attached, the gaps are set for both the roller clutch with the ring and the ring with the starter gear.

We install a starter on a Ural motorcycle on our own: it’s as easy as shelling pears

In modern bikes, the starter is installed “by default”, but the Ural bypassed this action. When this bike was first manufactured, this part was unique and considered a luxury, so you had to fork out the cash to afford it. Fortunately, you can install the starter on a Ural motorcycle yourself.

Selection options

An electric starter in the Urals is installed after all the technical characteristics of the vehicle have been determined. Often, car enthusiasts take advantage of the opportunity, if available, and introduce models from a donor car - the VAZ 2109 and its modifications.

Instructions for installing the device yourself

You can find out how to install a starter on a Ural motorcycle below (the author of the video is Absolut Snab).

Required set of tools and materials

stationery for marking;
Bulgarian;
washers, nuts, spokes.

We will find out how to install a starter in the Urals below.

Installation process

Flywheel

If installation is carried out using a duralumin clamp, which is welded to the gearbox, you need to ensure that deformation does not occur. To do this, you must remove all rubber parts before work.

Photo gallery

Photo 1. Parts for the device Photo 2. Intermediate disk of the crown Photo 3. Installation of the device structure

Price issue

Speaking of price, we can say that modifying this vehicle is quite expensive. Installing the device will cost from 300 to 500 rubles. A new type of crown can be purchased for 2,000 to 3,000 rubles, and an intermediate disk for the crown can be purchased for 1,000 rubles.

Video “Installing an electric starter”

We learn how to install a starter on a Ural motorcycle from a video from the Free Riders channel.

avtozam.com

Electric starter

Well, I finally started writing this post. I’ve long wanted to install an electric starter on my Bolivar, but either I’m not up to it, I don’t want to disassemble the engine, and during the rebuild I want to quickly assemble it and drive it. However, after an unsuccessful trip to Rostov, on the birthday of the Olen bike house, when I turned the crankshaft in Yaroslavl with all the consequences, I decided to finally give myself an electric start during this capital campaign. Despite the fact that the Internet is full of articles on this topic, they are all quite vague, plus I have not seen a single video where a “live” 650cc Ural was started with an electric starter. No, the video is complete, but they show some intermediate stages, like: “here I attached the starter, here I connect the wires to the Akum and it seems like something is turning, but the engine is still half disassembled.” Somehow I got distracted, closer to the topic.

In order to install an electric starter, you need to buy a ring gear for the flywheel. Someone is remaking a crown from Buran (in my opinion), but I took a ready-made one, which is installed instead of the last clutch disc.

Ring gear

Together with the ring gear, a bracket for mounting the starter on the box was purchased. There are two such brackets, on top of the box and on the side. But, since I have a Ural gearbox, and the starter from the side looks, in my opinion, much more aesthetically pleasing, my choice fell on the side mount.

Starter mounting bracket

A tens starter with a 9-tooth Bendix was recommended as a starter. But I had a starter from Oka lying in my garage, which, as it turned out, is almost identical to the ten starter, the only difference is in the starter cover. After going around several auto parts stores, I finally found the cover I needed, so with a slight movement of the hand (and unscrewing a couple of screws) the starter from the Oka was turned into a tenth starter, and at the same time, preventive maintenance was done and the gearbox was lubricated.

Starter from Oka

Difference in starter caps

The starter we need

Then the fun begins. Using the starter mount as a guide, a window is marked on the engine crankcase and gearbox, after which it is roughly cut out (not to size, of course), followed by a file adjustment to the required dimensions.

Example window

After that, only the ring gear was placed on the flywheel, the flywheel was attached to the crankshaft, a mark was made on the crankcase (taking into account that the flywheel would sit deeper) where the ring gear ends and the flywheel begins. A mark was also made on the starter cover where the bendix ends if it is pulled out to the end, after which the flywheel was removed and the holes were adjusted to finish.

Estimation and final hole

The centering bosses had to be cut off from the box housing, otherwise the ring gear would rest against them. I had to disassemble the air filter and cut off part of it so that the starter could fit into place. We also made two box mounting studs, which had to be made larger due to the fact that now the starter was also attached to them.

After that, the flywheel and clutch assembly was finally installed on the crankshaft, the engine and gearbox were assembled, and the starter was roughly put in place. After fitting, there were small tests to see how the starter turns the flywheel, whether the teeth are torn off, whether there is any misalignment, etc.

Starter fitting First tests

After I was sure that everything was going well, bushings were made to secure the starter at the required distance and at the same time press the box.

Once the starter was finally secured, a second test was carried out to ensure everything was going according to plan.

Second tests

After this, the final stage of engine assembly began. Since there is no air filter now, I temporarily installed zeros. In the future I will install a starter filter from KBMTS.

Final view of the engine

Starter filter

Well, now, actually, the finale. That's what this whole post was all about. Video of starting a Ural 650cc motorcycle using an electric starter. Engine just after rebuild. New crankshaft from Soviet stocks, aluminum cylinders, AT 78mm pistons, new heads. The video shows the second launch. I didn’t film the first launch, but it started up almost immediately, after which I let it run for 10 minutes, turned it off and decided to make this video. Enjoy!

Starting with electric starter

Ring gear

Starter mounting bracket

Starter from Oka

Difference in starter caps

The starter we need

Example window

Estimation and final hole

Starter fitting

First tests

After I was sure that everything was going well, bushings were made to secure the starter at the required distance and at the same time press the box.

Once the starter was finally secured, a second test was carried out to ensure everything was going according to plan.

Second tests

After this, the final stage of engine assembly began. Since there is no air filter now, I temporarily installed zeros. In the future I will install a starter filter from KBMTS.

Final view of the engine

Starter filter

Starting with electric starter

PS The only thing left is to connect the start button to the remote control via a relay. The remotes I have are not original, they have this button.