They say that it is better to ride a slow motorcycle quickly than to ride a fast motorcycle slowly. It sounds reasonable, but in reality it’s better to go fast on a fast motorcycle, or in extreme cases, on a medium-fast one. It’s not just that manufacturers try to make their new models faster - the power reserve sometimes saves, although it can also lead to troubles. In addition, fast motorcycles handle better and are easier to shoot out of corners. Have you noticed that Moto3 bikes corner faster than Moto2 or MotoGP? This is not because riders of the younger class are more agile, but because on weaker equipment they are forced to maintain high speed so that their rivals do not get ahead - their acceleration after exiting a turn is not as vigorous as in the larger ones.
Small motorcycles
But you can safely trust the holder on the front tire - all these babies weigh significantly less than 200 kilograms, and you don’t have to brake from more than 200 kilometers per hour. So it turns out that light, small-capacity motorcycles are not always slow - rather, on the contrary, they are dynamic and sporty, requiring skills and capable of reaching such speeds that, according to one famous racing driver, only a person with a fairly underdeveloped imagination can ride on the roads.
But they are suitable not only for the track. Small motorcycles are very good in cities, when there is a lack of free space , and taking into account the good savings on gasoline and tires, small-sized motorcycles stand out quite well against the background of public transport and cars.
They also have one more undeniable advantage: they are quite inexpensive. This is not to say that they cost a penny, but still, almost any biker can afford a new motorcycle, from the showroom and under warranty, even if on credit. The main thing is to spend this money wisely.
After all, even those with a tight wallet understand that now, in an era when technological progress rushes at the speed of a scalded locomotive, motorcycles for the same price are clearly not created the same. Few people will refuse to buy a better motorcycle for the same price as its simpler competitor. This is what we will talk about.
So, five small-capacity cars for the European market (we don’t consider urban toy 125s and the like), in the price category up to 6 thousand dollars, give or take. Five testers with different levels of training, brand bias and tastes. Five opinions about each of the five motorcycles, supported by points. Then all this was averaged, annotated and presented to you.
Fifth place: BMW G 310 R 2021
BMW G 310 R 2021
Everything in the world is relative, and the little road bike from BMW, which won positive reviews three years ago, is now in last place. The fact is that they are generally quite similar in concept to the KTM 390 Duke: both are based on a single-cylinder engine with a balancer shaft, a steel cage frame, a simple rear suspension - in a word, obvious and typical classmates, which made us take the 310 into one comparison with 400 models. But at the same time, BMW clearly lags behind its rivals in terms of engine. In the class of 30-40 horsepower engines, every horse not only counts, it also must be correctly placed in the harness. If you are making a road motorcycle in the second decade of the 21st century, then you need to manage to give it the most characteristic characteristics. A weak engine must have a pronounced peak, if it does not have enough strength for a flat torque plateau. And despite the fact that the 313 cc BMW single-barrel is quite good in itself, compared to the rest it is like a 750 among liters at high speed. And the BMW is clearly and unequivocally deflating closer to the cutoff, therefore, as they say, “turning on the gas” in fifth gear - turning it all the way down - you watch in bewilderment as it first rests on a certain speed, although there is still a reserve of revolutions, and then passes by the other four pass by. Which is quite sad, because otherwise the motorcycle is quite good - however, the slower it is, the safer it is, probably?
Opinion: You don’t really expect anything special from models in this class, but the rest, compared to the BMW G 310 R, turned out to be simply lively. It doesn't have the punch to zip through traffic at normal highway speeds, and despite peaking power 500 rpm below redline, it's the most stunted of the five.
Opinion (diplomatic): This baby is submissive and obedient in every way, from its low seat, smooth character, comfortable riding position - a new rider's best friend. The BMW G 310 R looks nice, with its bright wheels matching the red frame. At the very least, it cannot be called “uncool,” but it is capable of pleasing and invigorating only the most inexperienced rider.
Opinion: The BMW G 310 R looks great in a parking lot, with quality trim and attractive colors. And with its low seat and quiet engine, it won't scare even a litter kitten, even with a vacuum cleaner in the back seat. The motorcycle equivalent of a flavor explosion from a flavored toothpick, it pulls nicely and accelerates smoothly into its honest 50s, and promises a thrill of riding and a well-trained mind... until you open the throttle. Having opened it, you realize that this is the weakest motor of the entire five, and the cat water bottle has a more powerful and smoother motor. Overall, the engine sucks. As for the rest of the bike on the ride, it's quite comfortable, with a good riding position and a comfortable saddle. True, from the fork there is no feedback on the go - like with a double layer of rubber. But the neutral position is excellent - it seems that the 310 likes to stand more than drive.
Opinion: It's a pity that the BMW G 310 R comes in last in comparison. But this was immediately clear, despite the comfortable and fairly spacious seating position, decent suspension and good brakes, and even confident gearbox shifting and good finishing. Everything spoils the performance of the engine, or rather the lack thereof. At the bottom it even seems to be undermined, and then it just picks up speed, but not speed.
Pros of the BMW G 310 R 2021
- Looks good and has BMW badges
- It basically goes up to a hundred
- Good basis for a project with a Duke motor
Cons of the 2021 BMW G 310 R
- Not enough power
- And there is not enough traction either
- I'm only happy standing
Choosing a motorcycle for those who are more experienced
Once you've mastered a road bike and gained the right level of confidence, you'll probably want something more powerful, sporty and solid.
Choppers are often confused with cruisers. But in reality, choppers have an extended fork and a rigid rear suspension. This “limousine” in the world of cars is designed for leisurely movement on high-quality road surfaces. The chopper is a heavy unit with limited maneuverability. But these “horses” are loved for their style and charisma. They are able to stand out in any traffic flow, attracting glances around.
Sports bike - the choice of this motorcycle is justified for riding on the track. Many people do not recommend using them in the urban jungle. Unlimited speed capabilities can play a bad joke on a “hot” driver. But if you are capable of self-control, you will become one of the most noticeable road users.
When purchasing a chopper or sportbike, you must initially add a separate budget for maintenance. Compared to cruisers or the same road bikes, maintenance costs will be many times higher. But for this you get a two-wheeled racing car.
If you want to become the owner of a real all-terrain vehicle without stopping at the end of the asphalt surface, then your choice is enduro. All-terrain models have increased suspension travel, low weight and maximum maneuverability. This allows you to overcome the most rocky slopes and muddy areas. On the highway, such a bike will be ineffective due to the small tank volume.
Fourth place: Yamaha MT-03 2021
Yamaha MT-03 2021
The second largest motorcycle (321 cubic meters) and the second from the bottom, for about the same reasons as the BMW. The Yamaha inline-two is 7 horsepower behind the most powerful, the Kawasaki Z400, which produces 43 horsepower if you don't mind revving it to 11,000 rpm. But as for torque, this “master of traction” (MT is Master of Torque) produces only a little more Newton meters (27.2 versus 26.7) than the BMW, and then at 9100 rpm.
And again, this motor itself would not be bad, but compared to the other three (BMW does not count) it is clearly behind. The MT is impressive as a solo sport tourer, its suspension is softer and its ergonomics are very pleasing, but it falls short in competitive testing.
Opinion: The Yamaha MT-03 is slow but graceful. Well, as sleek as a 321cc motorcycle can be. The frail frame and medium-sized suspension work quite tolerably at low speeds, but clearly do not carry them on bad roads. The shock absorber breaks quite easily when you hit a bump at speed. The seat is deep, the seating position is quite compact, if not cramped, the steering wheel is narrow, and the muzzle looks like a transformer with those squinting eyes - although young people will probably like it.
Opinion: As good as the MT-09 and MT-07 are, the Yamaha MT-03 is no good. It's somewhere between Kawasaki and BMW in the overall standings, that is, it's not particularly good, but it's not bad at all.
Opinion: The Yamaha MT-03 is a good little bike. You sit deep, the handlebars are close, the saddle is just right for short people. A 36-horsepower monster between your legs is no less exciting than watching a white-tailed eagle's nest on a webcam or playing backgammon with your neighbor down the street. But still, the MT horses are much more vigorous than the dead BMW ponies, and even though it can only be formally classified as a “master of traction”, the engine spins with pleasant smoothness up to the cut-off speed, at which, by the way, you will have to keep it constantly, if you even hurry up a little. The brakes are grippy, the MT steers well, but the suspension is far from comfortable. Choose good asphalt for traveling - and everything will be fine, but on other roads don’t forget a mouth guard so as not to shake your brains. Such a motorcycle will serve you faithfully for the entire period until it is replaced with something more serious - all three months.
Opinion: The Yamaha MT-03 is the newest of the five, due to its low and deep seat and compact position right in the middle of the motorcycle, not to mention the two-cylinder engine. It is smooth, spins well, has a riding character, and most importantly, it does not cause a feeling of shame and anxiety for spinning it to the cutoff, unlike the BMW. The brakes work, but the front one is the standard of a wooden brake. All in all, the older brothers, the MT-07 and MT-09, deserve the title of masters of traction, but the younger one does not. Basically, there's no substitute for cubic capacity other than a supercharger, and the MT-03 doesn't have one. But there is the lowest price.
Pros of Yamaha MT-03 2021
- Comfort on good asphalt
- Price
- Quiet
Cons of Yamaha MT-03 2021
- Not too heavy
- How much should I pay extra for MT-07?
- More suitable for short people
Third place: Kawasaki Z400 2021
Kawasaki Z400 2021
The Kawasaki Z400 differs from fourth place by some 78 cc, but at the same time, the 399 cc Z engine produces as much as 43 horsepower - more than all its rivals. In terms of thrust, it is in second place after the 390 Duke - 33.2 Nm, and although it seems that the Z-ka does not start as sharply from a standstill as the Austrian single-barrels, in fact it is very close to them. Tests at maximum speed showed that the digital speedometer of the Z400 stops at 180 km/h, and the Austrians stop accelerating after 160. Another question is, is this the cutoff they have, or are the gears a little short.
Surprisingly good suspensions, like the Kawasaki Z400 - a little stiff, but not too much, and perfectly hold the rear, preventing it from sagging or jumping during aggressive driving. The smoothing is quite good, minus the large bumps, but to be honest, on all of this five, the best way to get over bumps is to go around them. In terms of handling, the Kawasaki Z400 is in second place after the Vitpilen.
The Z's ergonomics are a little more aggressive and sporty than the upright stance of the other four. Tall riders will find it a bit cramped, especially since the rear of the seat slopes forward.
Opinion: A good tuned seat, thanks to which the eggs will no longer be pressed into the tank, will greatly decorate the Z400. Otherwise, the Kawasaki Z400 is an excellent, easy to ride and quite nimble motorcycle. Its in-line twin works smoothly, almost like the luxurious single-barreled Austrians. The power comes on smoothly, meaning it doesn't have the KTM-like pull, and the clutch lever is almost uninformative, so it's not the best choice as a first bike to learn about riding in the gray zone.
Opinion: Kawasaki Z400 are very Asian motorcycles, imbued with Asian philosophy, just as KTM and Huska are distinctly European. The engines on most Kawasakis are intuitive for those who love Japanese engineering, and even the Z400's compact stance gets used to quickly. True, the right foot touches the exhaust heat shield, but this is a small thing, but in terms of handling, the Kava is just a song after the previous two. Kawasaki knows how to build race bikes, and this tiny apple didn't fall far from the tree. Yes, this is a new model and all that, but the Z handles almost like a supersport in terms of how it goes through a series of serpentine turns, and at the same time it not only maintains, but also inspires confidence in a spirited ride. This is that rare motorcycle that a beginner can safely start learning to ride, and as they master the basic things, grow on it without changing it for a while. Its riding character will allow an experienced rider to have fun on the road, and its smooth traction will smooth out the mistakes that a beginner is sure to make in an attempt to go faster. Yes, the Z400 encourages fast driving - but that’s probably the beauty of a lightweight and well-balanced small-capacity car?
Opinion: The Kawasaki Z400 is the most poised and balanced bike for the vast majority of riders. For the money, it is the second cheapest, and at the same time the most powerful. Its beauty is also how smooth and controllable it is, and for beginners who are afraid to rev the engine, this is a very comfortable bike. And more experienced riders will appreciate the good mid and top revs, so it turns out that this is a great bike to start with and continue to learn, or maybe just keep it for riding without trying to set records. In addition, it is only half a kilo heavier than the lightest of the five, and its 14-liter tank with a real consumption of 4.5 liters gives a good power reserve. The seating position is the same hunched-over, knee-to-ear position as on the Z650 and Z900, leaning forward. Perhaps the saddle could be worth rethinking for something more comfortable. But, as sorry as it is to admit, all its advantages are easily offset by the advantages of the Austrians in both skins, gray and red.
Opinion: The Kawasaki Z400 is the most powerful, and you can feel it right away, but it is soulless. It sounds like a sewing machine, and although this is not the class of motorcycle where the exhaust needs to be changed right away, here it is necessary. Anything to make it sound more interesting. The landing is crooked, and generally terrible for tall people. It handles well, as you'd expect from a bike with Ninja 400 genes, and the price tag is very reasonable. So for those who are afraid to join the club of hardworking mechanics, Kawa offered a very good option. Just not as fun.
Pros of the 2021 Kawasaki Z400
- Still a little rushing
- Sporty handling, good suspension
- Power reserve
Cons of the 2021 Kawasaki Z400
- Forward tilt saddle
- Deeply Asian design to the point of slight xenophobia
- Vibrates at speeds that others are incapable of
Second place: Husqvarna Svartpilen 401 2021
Husqvarna Svartpilen 401 2021
Do you agree that this is an interesting motorcycle - even just the fact that it is being compared has attracted your attention? It is very interesting to see if he can surpass his base, which is Duke.
No, I couldn't.
Svartpilen, and even Vitpilen, are very beautiful motorcycles, unusual in many ways. Everyone loves their ergonomics, the tank is so narrow you can literally hang over the front wheel, but unfortunately it only holds 9.5 liters. And probably, the power reserve will be more serious if you don’t ride like you’re scalded, but the Svartpilen is a motorcycle that you simply can’t imagine riding in any other way.
The 401 Black Arrow is based on the same 373cc single-cylinder engine as the 390 Duke. However, unlike the older 701 model, the 401 Svart is about $400 CHEAPER than its red brother, which is generally incomprehensible, but nice, considering the standard goodies like a quickshifter, adjustable suspension and spoked wheels, which, unfortunately, require a chamber rubber. The tires on it are standard scrambler ones - in a large block, which sends quite noticeable vibrations from the asphalt, and does not hold very reliably in corners, or, at least, feels on the verge of demolition. But this is hardly that important: the Svartpilen is a universal motorcycle, designed for a wide variety of roads, from city asphalt to suburban dirt roads. Mainly, of course, for the city, given the small tank, and tube tires on the primer are bad manners, unless you are a tough endurist, for whom changing the rear tire is like checking the oil level.
WP's adjustable components put the Svartpilen first in suspension and a hair below first in handling.
Opinion: Neo-retro-futuristic scrambler is cool. Not surprisingly, the 390 Duke in Swedish uniform follows closely behind its red base, but the Svartpilen feels a little different on the move. A wide, old-school motard handlebar (with a strange brace screwed to the welded-in ears) and a flat, narrow seat sit the rider literally ABOVE the front wheel - in a typical motard position, thanks to which there is enough space for even the largest guys. Stock tires invite you to go where wolves are afraid to sleep, and although this is far from a real adventure, it just begs to be driven onto the dirt (and perhaps even to lie down on occasion). As with any city scrambler on checkerboards, everything will be fine if you don’t rush anywhere - its off-road capabilities are limited by the suspension and the size of the bumps. A nice little detail is the nice protection on the muffler resonator. The small tank isn't too much of a problem in the city, but the seat isn't the best either, and the sides of the plastic underneath cut into your legs, forcing you to splay your knees. The brakes have a fairly strong initial bite, but also provide good braking force. Unlike the 390 Duke, the Svartpilen doesn't have a Supermoto mode for ABS, but it also doesn't have traction control. In general, the motorcycle is good, and in some ways even better than the Duke.
Opinion: Husky is a robber! You sit high, like on an endurik, and your leg just naturally extends into the turn. It steers great. The brakes are grippy. Its main disadvantage is its TINY tank. As soon as your butt gets used to it, the reserve lights up at about 150 kilometers. Yes, you won’t get much distance on it - the size of the tank will take care of that, you’ll have to often taxi to a gas station, warm up and fill up. Well, you’ll quickly remember where the coffee is better. The adjustable suspension is great, as is the bi-directional quickshifter. Svartpilen is a non-standard and cool motorcycle that looks completely unique from others - cool, aggressive and attractive.
Opinion: Don't judge strictly, but Svartpilen should have won - simply because the style and design make it stand out from the crowd. But the tiny tank, stylish but cluttered dashboard and flat seat just kept it from coming out on top. The only motorcycle with adjustable suspension and a quickshifter, 400 dollars cheaper than the KTM Duke - how did it even manage to lose?! How COULD he lose?!
Opinion: A very cool motorcycle in visual terms. The tank is sleek and stylish, with distinctive features that highlight its purpose, and the KTM engine gives it wild, primal power. Throttle response is immediate and light, and the transmission operates extremely neatly and precisely. The footpegs are low, the saddle is long, and the narrow handlebars are conveniently positioned for any height. Everything is conducive to a long and active ride. So don’t deny yourself anything during those thirty minutes that the ridiculously small tank lasts. The money saved on the purchase of a KTM 390 is just enough for a “road assistance” policy with the “bring me some gasoline” option. Somewhere on a serpentine road not far from a gas station, it’s a great toy, despite the checkered tires, which work better on slippery ground rather than on good asphalt. On the highway, the motorcycle whirls and jumps along the lane, even in ruts that are not really visible to the eye. The tidy is practically invisible in direct light - however, this does not matter. You don't need equipment to have fun. If there was a choice between this and KTM, Black Arrow would be held in high esteem. The main thing to remember is that this is not a beginner's motorcycle.
Pros of Husqvarna Svartpilen 401 2021
- Catchy look
- Based on 390 Duke
- The best suspension and quickshifter
Cons of Husqvarna Svartpilen 401 2021
- Tank less than 10 liters
- Tube tires
- Not the best tires for asphalt
For the most part, the post is addressed to people who are not very familiar with motorcycles and do not know where to start. However, it can also be of interest to experienced motorcyclists, because you can always learn something new. Or information concentrated in one place will open up a new perspective on routine things. The purpose of this post is to suggest a method for choosing a motorcycle. In short: we buy a liquid, affordable motorcycle, get acquainted with the motorcycles, look for its advantages and disadvantages, sell the motorcycle for the same money, and buy a new motorcycle, based on your personal opinion and your desires. The post is long, there are a lot of letters, no pictures.
PS Plus karma to everyone who found this post through a search, rather than asking questions in the Q&A.
Chapter I. First acquaintance with motorcycles.
What do we have at the beginning?
• theoretical understanding of a motorcycle; • perhaps rode a friend's motorcycle around the yard; • may have been the owner of a moped; • fear of investing large amounts of money into the unknown. What don't you have? • experience and practical knowledge of the motorcycle. Let's call it "motorcycle household appliances." All motorcycles differ from each other, both in their riding style and in their maintenance. A little later I will list their main differences so that you can pay attention to them and form your own opinion.
A motorcycle is chosen based on two types of factors: objective and subjective. Objective factors are what are equally important for ALL motorcycles: • technical condition; • availability of spare parts and instructions; • price. Subjective factors are why you like THIS particular motorcycle: • class; • appearance; • ease of landing; • engine characteristics; • company manufacturer; and much more.
We choose with our heads.
Until we have formed requirements for a motorcycle based on personal experience (subjective factors), it is worth choosing a motorcycle based on rational (objective) criteria: • Price. Estimate your budget. Understand that a good motorcycle cannot cost 50 thousand. If they sell for 50 thousand, it means they are either scamming or a criminal spendthrift. We also don’t forget about related expenses (MTPL, gasoline, equipment). If you have category A, the equipment has already been purchased, and your income is stable, you can buy a motorcycle with your last money, and even a loan for a couple of months. If your salary is small and you have nothing, then plan to buy not only a motorcycle, but also everything else. • Liquidity. The motorcycle must be popular, in great demand on the market, and therefore in great supply. You shouldn’t worry about buying your first motorcycle, and it’s better not to worry about selling it. Easy Come Easy Go. • Reliability. All motorcycles break down, but some break down less often. According to public opinion, the Japanese are considered the most reliable, followed by Europeans and Americans, and less reliable - the Chinese and Soviet motorcycles. All motorcycles ride: from IZH to Golda. But with IZH the chance of sitting in the garage is much higher (and with Golda it’s more expensive). • Damage resistant. Maybe someone is lucky and never falls, but this is rather an exception to the rule. And the rule is this: the less experience, the greater the chance of falling. Maybe you were warned about the possibility of a wheel locking when braking, or a wheel skidding on oil. Or maybe you will learn everything from your own bitter experience. It may even happen that the motorcycle falls from the wind in the parking lot, or the shepherd in the yard wants to jump on the motorcycle. The result is that the turn signals and mirrors break, the instrument panel and headlights suffer, the paint is scratched, the tank is wrinkled, and you end up in need of repairs. How to avoid this? Look for a motorcycle with protection, or install bars or sliders yourself. It is advisable to take a motorcycle without a plastic body kit, because... It also bursts, gets scratched, and you have to paint and solder it, or buy a new one. • Suitable size and weight. If you are a big man with a height of 190 cm, then riding a small ebrik will be extremely uncomfortable. And for a fragile girl, it will be a challenge to roll a heavy two-liter cruiser into the garage. Based on this, calculate your strength and dimensions. Please note that a fallen motorcycle will have to be lifted, and the heavier it is, the more difficult it is to do this. • The motorcycle capacity follows from the previous point. On the one hand, there should be enough power to pull the pilot’s weight, but on the other hand, it should not allow you to accelerate sharply under the influence of emotions. Low-speed engines (for example, v-twins on cruisers) with equal cubic capacity have less power and a longer service life (for example, 31 hp at 7,500 rpm for a 400). High-speed engines provide more power, but the speed will have to be kept higher; from the bottom they pull worse (for example, 53 hp at 12,000 rpm for the 400). By increasing the RPM, the engine can extract more power from the same displacement, but the engine life and acceleration of the motorcycle will suffer. • Technical condition. This is the last important point - the motorcycle must be in good working order.
Please note that popular models may have previously been in the hands of other students who do not know about proper maintenance, and the equipment may have serious defects. It is possible to avoid this technique: a) Find someone who will help you inspect the motorcycle. This could be a good friend for thank you, or just a new acquaintance whom you are on the forum and asked to help for a small reward. Or meet the local motorcycle club, invite them to inspect it, and then cover the clearing and wash the purchase. b) Purchase at auction.
Before the auction, all equipment is checked and examined. And if the motorcycle has any breakdowns or shortcomings, they will be indicated in the lot description. c) Conduct the test yourself. Fortunately, there are a lot of articles on the Internet on this topic, but you will have to learn the inspection procedure by heart. Or write it on a piece of paper and mark the completed procedures with a tick. d) Buy a motorcycle in a showroom. This will increase the cost by 20-30%, but in return you usually get a year (or less) warranty and service. If you have decided on a motorcycle class (classic, cruiser (aka “chopper”), sport or something else), then choose from this class. If not, take the classic.
Selection results.
Based on the above, I would recommend the following models: 1) classic Japanese 400s, such as Honda CB 400, Yamaha FZ 400, Suzuki Bandit 400, Kawasaki ZZR400.
2) Japanese 400 cruisers: Honda Steed, HONDA Shadow, YAMAHA Virago, SUZUKI Intruder, Kawasaki Vulcan. 3) it is better to take sports with a smaller cubic capacity, because their power and acceleration are higher than those of previous models: Honda CBR250R, Kawasaki Ninja 250R, etc., but it’s quite possible to take the same 400. But these are my personal recommendations, not rules. The ideal motorcycle is popular, inexpensive, protected and in good technical condition.
Before buying a motorcycle, be sure to sit on it. At least 10 minutes. Is anything numb or numb? Your legs don't fall off, your back doesn't ache? Then you can buy this model.
Chapter II. Second acquaintance.
Congratulations, now you are a real motorcyclist (or biker, as you prefer). However, only now does your journey in choosing YOUR motorcycle begin. I’ll assume that you owned your first motorcycle for a couple of seasons, traveled to many interesting places, and managed to “see everyone.”
We choose “with the heart”.
The euphoria of owning and riding on two wheels gradually subsides, and awareness comes to mind.
Why did you get your first motorcycle? Does he cope with his tasks? Should I take a motorcycle of the same class, or would another one be better? * Sports. Although I personally believe that the place of sports is on the track, they are also enviably popular on the roads. Its strengths are high power and speed, good handling, and attractive appearance. Disadvantages - the seating position is not comfortable for a long drive, in the absence of a brain and the instinct of self-preservation - an increased chance of cutting yourself into someone else's car.
* Cruiser (aka chopper). Big, powerful, beautiful. Lots of shine and chrome. A comfortable seating position and a long wheelbase make you feel much more comfortable on long-distance trips than in other classes. The downside is worse handling, which makes it less comfortable in the city than other classes. The engine is low-speed, pulls from below, but don’t expect high speeds from it.
* Tourist. Take a cruiser, add more plastic body kit, bags, a radio, air conditioning, more panniers, water cooling, a more revving engine, a good windshield. This will make you a tourist. The price, accordingly, will be many times more expensive due to the presence of a mountain of amenities, goodies and bells and whistles. In the city, due to its weight and dimensions, it is even more inconvenient than a cruiser, but outside the city it is even more comfortable.
* Enduro. The short wheelbase and light weight make it very controllable. Lack of plastic - maximum resistance to cosmetic damage. High ground clearance - maximum passability. Simple equipment - as cheap as possible. Cons: It’s better not to use it on the track: low speed, low weight, hard seat. For long-distance riders, it is better to take their big brothers - touring-enduro.
* Classic. Golden mean.
Having decided on the class, we begin to choose the characteristics of the motorcycle. After riding for a couple of seasons, you could encounter a number of troubles (or peculiarities) when servicing/repairing your horse. What did they depend on?
• Cooling: Air cooling is reliable and maintenance free. If you are driving, the engine cools down. If you are standing, the engine heats up weakly. But you can’t install it on an in-line engine. Water cooling - when the radiator fins are moved outside the engine, and heat is transferred through the coolant. Requires regular maintenance (antifreeze replacement), may break down and require repair.
• Preparing the mixture: The injector is a little more economical, easier to maintain, and regulates the idle speed on a cold engine. Disadvantages: high cost, demanding quality of gasoline, difficulty in repairs. Works in any plane (demanding for stunt riding). Carburetor - Simple and cheap, less demanding on the quality of gasoline. Requires periodic maintenance (synchronization), but this maintenance and repair can be done with your own hands in the garage.
• Selecting the main gear. Chain and star. The most popular drive. Cheap, lightweight, relatively easy to replace, gently transfers load to the wheel, low power losses. But it requires regular care, lubrication, and tightening. The chain and sprocket are consumables and are replaced together. Belt and pulley. Like the chain, it’s lightweight, easy to replace, and the efficiency is slightly lower than that of a chain. However, a belt costs more than a chain and can withstand less load (this is why they are not used on powerful motorcycles). On the other hand, the belt does not require lubrication or tightening, and lasts longer than the chain. Cardan. Heavy, biggest power loss. Minimal maintenance (oil change every 2 years), high reliability. But if it breaks, you won’t be able to replace it like a chain or belt; you’ll have to repair it.
• Weight. More weight means more stability when driving, less controllability at low speeds; the motorcycle is more difficult to roll and lift. The weight of the motorcycle is increased by a large and powerful engine, a reinforced frame and body, a larger tank volume, and the presence of additional equipment (automatic transmission, ABS, air conditioning and radio). Less weight means more controllability, but less stability, easier to roll and lift. The weight of the motorcycle is reduced by a smaller engine (for example, a single-cylinder 250cc), the absence of a body kit, the absence of additional equipment, and the use of expensive lightweight materials.
• Disk type. Spoke. They tolerate bumps and potholes well, but occasionally require maintenance (tighten the spokes). Most often, spoked wheels require tires with a tube, but there are exceptions. Cast. No maintenance is required, but if you run into a strong hole, the rim can be bent, or even the disc itself can crack. Suitable for tubeless tires.
• Tire type. Chamber. Air is pumped into a special chamber located in the tire. And if your tire is punctured or the rim is bent, the wheel will remain suitable for driving. On the other hand, if the tube gets a hole, then to repair it you will have to remove the wheel, disassemble it, glue/change the tire, and put the tire back on. Tubeless. Air is pumped directly into the cavity between the tire and the wheel. Due to the tightness of the disc and the tight fit of the tire to it, the air is kept in the tire. Disadvantages - if the disk bends or the tire bursts, you will not be able to drive further, you will have to change the tire or disk. Pros: punctures are repaired with a tourniquet without removing the wheel.
• Brakes. Disc brakes are installed on all motorcycle models, having long replaced the less efficient drum brake. In principle, engineers set the brake to the required strength based on the power and weight of the motorcycle itself. Powerful motorcycles will have two large discs and a pair of 6-piston calipers. On less powerful ones there is a small disc, and only one caliper for 2-4 pistons. A brake is also placed on the rear wheel, depending on the need: either a cheap drum one or a small disc one.
• The presence of a plastic body kit. The role of the body kit is to reduce air resistance, which increases top speed and acceleration. The only downside is the price. You pay for the body kit upon purchase and upon repair (in case of a fall).
• Ride height. It's simple - you need to reach the ground with both feet at the same time. If you reach with only one leg, this will bring its own inconvenience and discomfort. The height can be adjusted to some extent by changing the saddle and adjusting the shock absorbers. But this is not the best way, since with such an adjustment you will make the suspension more rigid.
• All sorts of gadgets. ABS, music, cigarette lighter, xenon headlight and LED turn signals, saddlebags and arches. All this can be installed independently with properly growing hands, or even assembled on your knee if you have the knowledge and tools. But it’s easier to buy a motorcycle with the goodies already installed. And the more goodies, the higher the price of the motorcycle, but the more profitable the price of each goody separately.
• Manufacturer. The price of the motorcycle, the quality of its assembly, the availability of parts, design and status depend on the manufacturer.
• Design. So, you have chosen the class and cubic capacity. We opened a website with advertisements for the sale of motorcycles, filtered by parameters, and selected two suitable models from different manufacturers. But one is scary and awkward, and the other is slender and elegant. The choice is obvious.
• Engine. It’s worth writing separate posts about him. Here we will focus on the main differences between gasoline internal combustion engines. 1) Number of cycles. Two-stroke. Simple, cheap, lightweight, easier to repair, more powerful than a four-stroke. Requires mixing oil with fuel, wears out faster, makes more noise. Four-stroke. Larger, more complex, and therefore more expensive than two-stroke ones. But the resource is much higher and much easier to maintain. 2) Engine size. With increasing volume, the following increase: power, maximum speed, acceleration, fuel consumption, engine weight (and motorcycle weight, respectively), and price. 3) Line-up. Row - compact in length, but takes up a lot of space in width. Due to this, effective cooling is only possible using liquid cooling. Well suited for short wheelbase classics and sports. V-shaped - most often the cylinders are located along the axis of movement of the motorcycle, this makes it narrower. This also allows the use of air cooling. It’s difficult to squeeze it into a short wheelbase (although there are exceptions), but it fits perfectly into a long wheelbase cruiser. Opposed - two cylinders stick out on the sides of the motorcycle. The advantages are a low center of gravity and relatively low vibrations. 4) Maximum number of revolutions. More revolutions - more fuel is burned per second, more energy is released, more power, more speed. However, in this case, the parts wear out faster, and the engine life is noticeably reduced.
All of the above (and much more) are determined by two main characteristics of the engine: 1) Power in hp. Affects acceleration time and maximum speed. Depends on engine size and speed. 2) Torque in Nm. Mainly affects: acceleration (how quickly the motorcycle reaches maximum power and maximum speed, respectively); traction (from what speed the engine will pull the motor. With sufficient power, you can switch from second gear to 4th, for example); load capacity (same traction, but specifically how fast a motorcycle with a heavy pilot/load can ride, including uphill).
Selection technique.
The first step is to create your budget for a new motorcycle.
The more money, the more choice. The second step is to decide on the tasks for this motorcycle and its class accordingly. The third step is to create a list of characteristics of the motorcycle that you want to see in it. It is better to do this “in descending order”, from the most important to the indifferent. Next, open a website with advertisements, or just a search engine, and start sifting out motorcycles by characteristics, starting with the most important ones. For example, you are lazy, and lubricating the chain every 300-500 km is stressful. Then look for a motor with a cardan or belt. In the city, instead of asphalt, did the DRSU put new pits? Then you should think about spoked wheels. Are you afraid of getting stuck on the road? Look for an air-cooled motor. Are you afraid of squeezing the brakes? Look for a bike with ABS. Do you want a classic but with a V-twin? No question, there are many of them. Do you want diesel? There is even one!
As a result of your search, you will find several models from different manufacturers, different price categories, and different configurations. We immediately remove expensive models that do not fit into our budget. We also exclude those that are too “scary”. From the remaining competitors, we select the most functional and profitable based on minor “buns”, such as the presence of a windshield or xenon headlight, engine layout, saddle height, the presence of ABS, and others. In general, everything that you can easily ride without, but it will still be more pleasant to ride with it.
If your budget is small, try to choose popular models. For rare models, spare parts and repairs will hit your wallet and will require time to find and deliver. This is especially true for older models released 20 or more years ago.
If there are still several motorcycles that suit your requirements, look equally beautiful, and have similar characteristics, choose the one that is closer and in better technical condition. Otherwise, you risk spending a lot of time reading reviews and testimonials, forming your own subjective opinion that the Honda model is better than a similar Yamaha, driving 1000 km away, and buying a worn-out machine, while in a neighboring city this Yamaha will be sold in excellent condition for a low price.
Lastly.
Don’t ask on the Internet, “which motorcycle is better?”, because all motorcycles are good in some way. Some - by appearance, others - by power, and others - by price. And how many people there are in the world, there are so many opinions. Form your own opinion. Understand what you want from a motorcycle, what you like about them. Buy a motorcycle for yourself, not for Vasya from the Internet.
Winner: KTM 390 Duke 2021
KTM 390 Duke 2021
No surprise, right? This thing has collected so many awards and positive reviews that it has set the bar high. An excellent engine that turned the idea of single-barrel guns upside down as slow and vibrating gear crushers, excellent handling, excellent brakes and even a modern dashboard (the only model with a large, bright TFT panel). Even the suspension would be close to perfect, if not for the contrast with its brother Svartpilen with its customizable components from WP.
The KTM 390 Duke is not only the most fun bike to ride, but it also looks great, contrasting with the 890 Duke, which looks like a pruner.
Opinion: Despite the more powerful engine than the Husky, the KTM 390 Duke for some reason seems a little slower to rev. It's not too noticeable, but you feel it in your gut. The seating position is comfortable for riders of different shapes and sizes, but still sits aggressively one way or another, especially when accelerating. It corners better than others, with the exception, perhaps, of the Husky, but the suspensions are quite easy to overload. The brakes are good compared to others, with reinforced lines and adjustable levers, unlike the Japanese. The TFT display is top-notch. Supermoto mode is a plus. The 373 cc engine has a known problem with head gasket failure, but in the latest generation they are made of a different material, so they have become more reliable. Overall, KTM is the best of the five, it would also benefit from a quickshifter from Swart...
Opinion: It's bikes like the KTM 390 Duke that make you reconsider the lenient attitude towards the 400cc class. Beginner, small and so on - the typical terminology when describing these bikes, but it is better to talk about them as “light” - because the KTM is definitely not small and not new. The 373 cc single-barrel engine produces excellent low- and mid-range traction, performs well both in the city and on the highway, not to mention serpentine roads, the seating position is one of the loosest and most versatile of all five, and the electronics are at a modern and not at all childish level , from the TFT instrument panel display to the supermoto mode. It’s a pity that now you can’t turn off ABS completely, but you have to “thank” Euro 5 for this. The non-adjustable suspensions are frankly sporty in nature, the brakes stop well and have good information content. Design is a matter of taste, but both Austrians in any case differ in a good way from the other three motorcycles, and at the same time look much more expensive.
Opinion: Fast, fun, comfortable, cute - the junior KTM 390 Duke combines all these points, while riding better than you would expect from its cubic capacity. Its only drawback is that its cheaper brother, the Svartpilen, is equipped with adjustable suspension and a quickshifter. But even this does not make Husk better than Duke.
Opinion: An excellent riding position, a wonderful engine, a nimble chassis and a good power reserve will appeal to anyone, regardless of driving experience. The motorcycle handles well, it is light, obedient, and composed at high speeds. The engine is torquey, but the cut-off is quite easy to feel, and this is the only way the Duke reminds you that it is actually a 400. On the highway it blows away a little less than its Swedish brother, and it holds the road better on asphalt tires, but it’s unlikely that you’ll want to drive it far. But for those who live somewhere in the mountains and often find themselves on serpentine roads, such a motorcycle is a sweet deal. For the city, the 390 Duke is more fun than a scooter and almost as nimble. And by the way, it carries two people quite decently, remaining just as collected and powerful.
Pros of the 2021 KTM 390 Duke
- The whole is greater than the sum of its parts
- And all the parts are quite good
- Best ergonomics in the group
Cons of KTM 390 Duke 2021
- It's time to set a new bar, right, BMW?
- Where's the quickshifter?
- And suspension adjustments?
What's on the market for a beginner? Choose a bike under category “A1”
Despite the possibility of obtaining full “licenses” of category “A” subject to completion of retraining courses, many this spring still decided to simply take the category “A1”. In this case, after two years, a full category “A” is assigned automatically. But what to drive these two years? A selection of 125 cc motorcycles is in our material.
It would seem that the new law greatly limits the holders of “A1” category “rights” in the variants of motorcycle equipment, but in fact they have to choose from a large number of different models. There are cruisers, classics, enduros, motards, and sports motorcycles. You can take a closer look at scooters. There really is plenty to choose from. Moreover, for beginner motorcyclists, these 125 “cubes” will be more than enough in the first season. And then... Then, of course, you will want more, and two years on the “baby” will seem like an eternity. Therefore, we suggest that those who are impatient go straight here.
The first candidate for purchase, of course, is the legendary Yamaha YBR-125. For up to $2000 you can buy a new or almost new YBR-125. This is a high-quality, reliable and easy-to-use “Japanese”. In motorcycle schools, he endures bullying and falls for years - and nothing.
For its 125 cc it is quite dynamic. The maximum speed of the motorcycle is 110 km/h, dry weight is 106 kg. The power of the four-stroke engine is 10 hp. Fuel consumption is approximately 2 to 3 l/100 km. The tank volume is 12 liters.
Although, to be honest, Yamaha YBRs are already boring. The Austrian KTM Duke 125 is an interesting option. Injection four-stroke engine with a power of 15 hp, liquid cooling, six gears, electronic instrument panel with on-board indicator. There are versions with ABS. This is a more modern motorcycle. But also expensive, of course. It was not included in the sales advertisements at the time of preparation of the material. The new KTM Duke 125 can be ordered from a Belarusian dealer for 57 million rubles, or $2900 (at the time of publication of the material - 89,700,000 rubles per mile 4668 dollars).
In size and appearance, it does not differ from its older “brothers” Duke 200 and 390. Weight - 127 kg, maximum speed - 130 km/h, tank volume 11 liters. Fuel consumption is nothing at all - 2.5 liters per “hundred”. In general, it’s quite a full-fledged motorcycle for the city.
A more patriotic choice is the M1NSK D4 125. The year before last we did a life test of this motorcycle. At the end of the season, we were disappointed by minor defects and malfunctions, but we appreciated the ratio of low price and good consumer qualities. The factory workers recently said that they are now producing a modernized version - the previous shortcomings have been eliminated. Owners also speak well of reliability. Fuel consumption is about 2.5 l/100 km. You ride for free.
Engine power is 10.5 hp, maximum speed is 100 km/h. Dry weight - 100 kg. Tank capacity 12 l. In general, this is the Belarusian-Chinese analogue of the “yobrik”. The motorcycle is not of such high quality in small details, but its price is half as high - around $1000 new. Personally, I remember him fondly. It was great to drive the D4 125 through forests and fields. And the motor sounds good for such a small volume.
Need more emotions from a motorcycle? Take the enduro! And in the city it’s good to get through traffic jams, and you can go into the fields. When driving over rough terrain, emotions will be over the edge. In addition, there is every chance that he will remain with you after two seasons. You will buy a more powerful and heavier motorcycle for everyday riding, and an enduro will be for blowing off some steam off-road. Personally, that's what I would do.
Here, for example, is the Honda XLR 125. Unfortunately, it is not a frequent visitor to our sales advertisement sites, but it is certainly a device worth attention. The fuel tank capacity is 9 liters, the 125 cc 4-stroke engine develops 11.4 hp, and the dry weight is only 119 kg. Of course, there is also an electric starter. Air cooling system. Only one motorcycle was found for sale in Belarus, the price was $1,700.
The more common lightweight enduro in our area is the Yamaha DT125. The single-cylinder two-stroke engine copes with its duties perfectly - power is 14 hp. allows you to successfully overcome almost any obstacle. Liquid cooling system. The engine is started by a starter, 6 gears. Dry weight is only 110 kg, tank volume is 10 liters. Maximum speed is 110 km/h. The price in advertisements for sale is $1100-1600.
Also from this class you can look at the Honda XR125L, Kawasaki KMX125, Kawasaki KLX125, Suzuki DR125, Aprilia RX 125 and other endurics. An option is to take a motard like Aprilia MX 125 and Megelli Supermoto 125M. But the problem is that in our market there are not so many enduro and motard bikes under the “A1” category. But in vain! With our roads, we can’t think of better technology. But you can certainly order them from companies that supply used motorcycles from Europe.
If you want to race, your choice is sports motorcycles. But taking a 125 cc “sport” makes sense if you are serious about developing sports motorcycle handling skills in the future. Because I personally don’t see the point in enduring a low seating position on a small-capacity bike. Although two-stroke 125 cc “sports” are the fastest among motorcycles of this volume. They look relatively impressive and handle well.
Category "A" - motorcycles; subcategory “A1” - motorcycles with an engine displacement not exceeding 125 cc and a maximum power not exceeding 11 kilowatts (light motorcycles).
But! Not all of them fit “A1”. Because power is limited to 11 kW (15 hp). We do not indicate the power in the vehicle registration certificate, but problems may arise. Therefore, be careful when purchasing a 125 cc “sport” car. They cost from $1000 to $2000 depending on condition and year of manufacture.
Aprilia RS 125 comes in two modifications - 15 and 33 hp. You understand that it’s difficult to expect anything from the first version, but the full version can accelerate the motorcycle to 175 km/h. But also with 15 hp. it can go 145 km/h. Fast motorcycle.
It handles very well, brakes instantly, and is attractive in appearance. The disadvantages include high fuel consumption. With a full tank (14 l), you can travel no more than 200 km at a moderate driving pace. 7 liters per “hundred”? That's a lot.
The budget sports motorcycle model Honda CBR125R appeared in 2004. The basis was a 1-cylinder 4-stroke liquid-cooled engine producing 13.6 hp. power. The engine is quite revvy for its layout and volume and produces maximum performance at 8000-10,000 rpm.
Among the features of the Honda CBR125R are a simple steel frame, electronic fuel injection (since 2007), liquid cooling, disc brakes and classic suspension (telescopic forks and monoshock), 6-speed gearbox, 10 liter fuel tank (13 liters after 2011) and 127 kg curb weight. The average official fuel consumption for the Honda CBR125R is 3.2 liters per 100 km. The exact value depends on your riding style. The maximum speed is 112 km/h.
There is also a Yamaha YZF-R125. The main feature of the motorcycle is a 1-cylinder, four-stroke, liquid-cooled injection engine that produces 15 hp. power. Other key features of the Yamaha YZF-R125 include a 6-speed gearbox, liquid cooling, a curb weight of 140 kg and an 11.5 liter fuel tank. Maximum speed is 120 km/h.
By the way, the owner of such a motorcycle contacted us, here is his short review: “I bought it at the age of 16, as soon as I received an A1 category license.” I chose for a long time. Didn't want to buy M1NSK or Honda CBR 125R. I accidentally came across a Yamaha YZF-R125. For its 125 cc it is very playful. There are no problems with maintenance, all spare parts are available. Due to the presence of plastic, it seems like a full-fledged sports motorcycle, a bit like a Yamaha R6. Some people don’t even realize that this is category “A1”. When they brake, traffic police inspectors are always sure that I’m not riding a 125 cc motorcycle - they check the frame number at every stop. I could have bought a sports 125 cc motorcycle with more power than 15 horsepower, but I didn’t want any questions to arise for me.”
“Sports” are “sports”, but a “normal kid” certainly needs a cruiser. Take, for example, the Kawasaki Eliminator 125. 15-year-old copies on our market cost approximately $1,500. The four-stroke air-cooled engine develops 12 hp. The maximum speed is 105 km/h, the fuel tank capacity is 12 liters.
A rare motorcycle on our market is the Suzuki VL 125 Intruder. It may be a “pocket” cruiser, but it looks quite grown-up. Plus it has... a V-twin engine! Of course, there’s not much to talk about the dynamics with 14 “horses,” but in the city the motorcycle, for example, feels normal. The maximum speed is 110 km/h.
In addition, there are also the “Japanese” Yamaha Virago 125, Honda Rebel 125 and numerous inexpensive South Korean and Chinese variations on the theme.
A scooter is a city dweller's best friend. Practical, convenient, cheap. Here, for example, is the new Baltmotors Galactica 125 DD for $1150. Built-in music system, disc brakes, informative dashboard. Maximum speed is 95 km/h. Fuel consumption according to the passport is from 2 liters per 100 km. The fuel tank has a volume of 5.5 liters.
You can take something more solid and larger like the Suzuki Burgman 125. It will be older and more expensive, but that’s a completely different story. However, we won’t focus on it - we can write a separate article about scooters. There are plenty of them on the market, both new and used.
Do you want to be fashionable, stylish and young? Then customization will help. There is now a growing interest in vintage motorcycles in this area, particularly cafe racers. Therefore, you can take some 125 and convert it into a fashionable motorcycle.
Here, for example, is the Honda CLR125 in the form of a scrambler. Stylish! It’s not a shame to drive away on beautiful equipment for two seasons.
Thus, if you do not want to spend money and time on courses, you can choose a temporary motorcycle for two years. It will be difficult, of course, for large people - for them 125 cc motorcycles are small.
What about the money? A motorcycle or scooter can be rented in the range of $700-3000. But don’t forget that you need to register it, get insurance and pass a technical inspection - that’s about another $100. Again, it will need to be serviced - this will cost some more depending on the condition of a particular instance. Equipment is also required to be purchased, and it is advisable to do this before purchasing a motorcycle. A helmet, gloves, a motorcycle jacket, motorcycle pants or knee pads, motorcycle boots and thermal underwear - all this will cost at least $500. It doesn’t matter that the motorcycle is light and low-powered, you can crash on one. As you know, everyone falls. But falling is less painful when equipped.
For those who are eager to get on two wheels, their dream can come true! And yet never fall. Be careful.
Yuri GLADCHUK Photo from open sources ABW.BY
