✅ The charger on the Ural motorcycle has disappeared

After the engine was restored to working order, the motorcycle started, but the battery did not charge. In connection with this, the generator and relay regulator were completely checked. In the end, the reason was in the relay regulator. Moreover, I changed the relay-regulator to a new one. Or rather new in the sense that it had not been used before, but its year of manufacture was old, which was the reason it did not work. And now in more detail and in order about the process of checking the generator and relay regulator.

The charger on the Ural motorcycle has disappeared

In what cases can you ride a motorcycle without a regulator relay?

It is not recommended to drive without a regulator relay. However, there are situations when it fails. It takes a lot of time to restore it. Therefore, many motorcyclists do not wait for repairs and risk going on trips without this device.

Experts are skeptical about such risky trips and recommend driving without a regulator relay if:

the battery has an absolutely full charge level,
The battery is in perfect working order,
The relay regulator must be in the off state.

If something is wrong.

Disconnect the relay regulator (remove the connector). Let's take a tester.
We set the tester to measure resistance. We check the resistance between ground (engine) and the generator wires (three wires, usually yellow). It shouldn't exist. If at least one has it, your motorcycle's alternator has burned out.
We check the resistance between the generator wires, the resistance should be the same, about 1 - 3 ohms. If it is more or not the same, your motorcycle's alternator has burned out.
We set the tester to measure alternating voltage. We start the motorcycle, measure the voltage between the generator wires, it should be more than 18 volts at idle, and more than 40 volts at 3000 - 4000 rpm. If there is no or different voltage, your motorcycle's alternator has burned out.
If the check in points 2, 3 and 4 went well, most likely your motorcycle has a faulty Relay - Regulator or, which also happens, a wiring fault (clean all terminals, check the integrity of the wires, connections to ground). If your motorcycle's generator burns out, this is the place for you: Rewinding the generator with your own hands.

Our service will help you check the charging of your motorcycle.

Check the integrity of wires and connections.

They will eliminate all problems associated with charging the motorcycle.

If the motorcycle is not sufficiently charged, the following may fail: battery, relay - regulator, generator.

How does a relay regulator work for a bike?

Normally, the voltage supplied to the on-board circuit of any motorcycle device should not exceed twelve volts. However, the generator is capable of producing a higher voltage level. Typically it ranges from eight to forty-five volts. If such voltage is regularly applied, all motorcycle electronics may fail. The motorcycle will turn into a pile of metal. It is to protect against power outages that a motorcycle relay regulator is installed on motorcycle equipment.

Relay regulators are installed on all imported motorcycle vehicles. The role of the regulator relay is colossal. Thanks to it, you can avoid expensive motorcycle repairs. In addition, all systems are guaranteed to work like a well-oiled mechanism and will not fail for a long time due to failures in the voltage supply to the on-board networks of the motorcycle.

Motorcycle Voltage Regulator Relay Diagram

GENERATOR 700 W | OPPOZIT.RU | motorcycles Ural, Dnepr, BMW

The resistance between the windings must be the same. The engine is started and the rotor rotates in the stator winding, voltage is supplied to the excitation winding through the PP and the generator is excited.

As practice has shown, pieces of nails driven into holes cope with the task. If the voltage is outside the technical specifications, replace the regulator. In particular, automatic ignition timing was introduced, since the motorcycle received a new power unit, and the old manual control of the timing advance did not meet the technical requirements.

The voltmeter reading is noted and, by bending the shank in the voltage relay, the spring tension is increased, and with it the generator voltage by 0.4 V. An additional rectifier arm is also introduced into the electrical circuit. During this period, you can slightly increase the generator voltage.

On a URAL car there is a voltage regulator. If the voltage is outside the technical specifications, replace the regulator. Adjust the position of the front wedge stops 9 on the closed lid 6 of the container 10 after installing the batteries 1 and the upper clamps into the container. If they come out of the special sockets, the phase leads may break off during generator operation.

If the engine continues to run, then the generator is working. The work consists of connecting a generator or battery to the mains at a certain moment. Thus, by turning the additional resistance on and off, a certain generator voltage will be maintained. After installing the batteries on the car, adjust the position of the front wedge stops 9, for which loosen the tightening of the bolts 8 securing the stops 9 to the cover 6, move the stops 9 along the elongated holes of the cover 6 away from you until they stop and tighten the bolts 8.

We recommend reading:

Contact Information.
Thus, by turning the additional resistance on and off, a certain generator voltage will be maintained. Remove the cover from the shaft. But you need to follow some rules. The generator covers undergo minor modifications. Replace brushes protruding from the brush holder channel by less than 5 mm. Features of the development of electrical equipment of Ural motorcycles The six-volt circuit over the years ceased to meet technical regulations, and on subsequent models, manufacturers installed central wiring designed to operate 12V equipment: Ti-volt battery; Let's consider their structure and interaction.

Thus, by turning the additional resistance on and off, a certain generator voltage will be maintained. If the voltage is outside the technical specifications, replace the regulator. Period of years The wiring of the Ural motorcycle has also proven itself quite well - if at first the designers had concerns about loss of contact due to possible corrosion of the metal frame, then operation has shown the reliability of the single-wire electrical circuit. Scooters and mopeds Ural motorcycle wiring diagram Ural motorcycles have a unipolar battery terminal. If after several trips it turns out that the battery is not charging enough, you can further increase the voltage of the generator, but not higher than 15 V. Ural motorcycle wiring diagram

How to check PP with a multimeter on a moped?

The relay regulator on a Chinese scooter is checked using a multimeter with a voltmeter function. For this purpose, a simple DT-830 (or equivalent) is usually used. It is better to carry out diagnostics and measurement of output voltage with the device removed.

Verification algorithm:

You need to unscrew the fairing with the central phase and find on the frame a device with 4 wires: red, green, yellow and white.
Then start the scooter and check the voltage at idle: measure it between the green and red wires, setting the multimeter to the maximum value of 20 V.
If the multimeter display shows a figure of 14.6-14.8 V, this is normal. For stabilizers on Chinese mopeds, this is the operating standard voltage. If at idle the multimeter shows a value of 15-16 V, this is a high voltage indicator. This indicates a malfunction of the relay regulator.
Then you need to check the voltage supplied to the lighting lamps. An alternating voltage is supplied to the central low beam (high beam) lamp, so the multimeter should be switched to the alternating current measurement mode with a parameter of 20 V.
Next, we measure the voltage between the green and yellow wires (green is the general electrical network of the moped). If the multimeter shows a network voltage of up to 12 V, then the electrical appliances are operating without additional load.
If at idle this value is 16 V or higher, and with a sharp increase in engine speed it jumps to 25 V, the device does not stabilize the voltage and, therefore, does not work. With such readings, the device must be replaced with a new one.

Using a multimeter, the relay regulator is checked on a Chinese scooter.
On 4T scooters, the relay regulator is checked using a tester. Typically a mechanical tester is used for these purposes, although there are also electronic models.

In order to take a measurement, you need:

switch the device to the “KiloOhm” mode and remove the regulator;
then place the probes on the first pair of terminals (AB). The tester should show a value of no more than 18 kOhm;
after that, we change the position of the probes on the terminals in the opposite direction (VA) and measure the voltage again - the arrow on the device should show 0;
then we install the probes on the next pair of terminals (SD) and measure the readings on this pair;
swap the probes (DS) and measure the indicator again;
the remaining measurements have no contact and are not checked. The indicator when checking them should be zero.

In this way, regulators are tested on popular Japanese models with small engine volumes from brands such as Honda (Leard, Dio, Tact), Suzuki, Yamaha.

Replacing a faulty relay regulator on a scooter is not difficult.

Why won't the battery charge?

Let's say you find out that the generator is working, but the car battery is not charging. Most often, this occurs due to irreversible physical and chemical reactions inside the battery case, which arise as a result of improper operation, mechanical damage, or age-related depletion of the resource. Among such malfunctions are:

plate sulfation;
internal short circuit of one of the sections;
critical decrease in electrolyte density. This occurs not only during natural evaporation of the distillate during active use of the battery, but also due to unqualified maintenance. Trying to add distilled water can reduce the density of the electrolyte so much that the battery will no longer be charged from the generator or from a conventional charger. You can measure the density of the electrolytic liquid with a hydrometer.

If your car's battery does not charge from the alternator, but takes charge from an external power source, carefully inspect the inside of the battery terminals. A dense layer of oxides increases resistance, which is why the car battery is constantly undercharged.

Sulfation of plates

The plates are coated with a layer of lead sulfate, which reduces the capacity and increases the internal resistance of the battery. Accelerated sulfation occurs when the battery is stored in a discharged state for a long time. During normal operation, the process of plate sulfation is accelerated by increased density, low level and high temperature of the electrolyte. Heating and boiling of the electrolytic liquid occurs when the battery is charged with a high current from the charger, as well as when operating a car with a faulty generator (overcharging).

The critical level of sulfation cannot be reversed - the battery will have to be replaced. In the early stages, the process can be stopped by several charge-discharge cycles with control of the electrolyte density.

The extent of the problem can be assessed by visual inspection of the plates, as well as by the density and transparency of the electrolytic liquid. A battery with deep surface sulfation begins to boil very quickly when an external power source is connected, but does not take a charge. At the same time, the density of the electrolyte increases slightly, which is why the battery has difficulty or does not start the engine at all, even after charging with an external device.

Internal short circuit

A car battery consists of 6 compartments, inside of which there is a package of multi-polar lead plates. They are immersed in electrolytic liquid and should not come into contact with each other. A short circuit occurs when the battery case is deformed or when the active mass falls off. Large particles can get stuck between the plates, causing an internal short. Signs of a closed section:

the battery loses charge. Even after being fully charged, the battery cannot start the engine;

To avoid buying a new battery by mistake, first check the current leakage level on your car. Perhaps the cause of the malfunction is not at all the melting of the active mass and short circuit of the plates.

stepwise reduction in voltage of a charged battery. In a 12-volt system, the battery is divided into 6 sections connected in series. The sum of the voltages of each section (2.15 V) is the total charge of a fully charged battery - 12.7 V. If the voltage at the battery terminals after charging does not increase more than 10.1-11.2 V, one of the sections has an internal short circuit;
no response to charging. When charging a serviced battery, the electrolyte begins to boil over time, indirectly indicating a full charge. If you do not hear the characteristic boiling sound from one of the service holes, most likely the can has an internal short circuit;
convexity of the body. Often the problem section can be identified by the deformation zone of the housing.

Why is there no charging for IZH Jupiter 5

RainbowRising

04/11/2010 23:04 at least tell me how you connected this ignition light. and what is the cost of the relay regulator? Yes, and in vain you stuck to this light bulb, if, as you say, the Akum is not dead, then the engine should start regardless of whether it is on or not. on a conventional relay, the lamp lights up when the motor is running on battery power and when the field winding is intact). I also connected it for myself. and if the engine does not start, then simply check the spark.

By the way, everything can successfully burn out if the wires fall off the Akum, so hook it very securely and don’t jump anywhere

There is also a problem with the magnetization of the DH curtain, maybe because of this (the motor won’t start, but the relay couldn’t burn out because of this), the solution is to install a sasa777

04/12/2010 08:51 The relay-regulator is a regular old model (all contacts are together and not scattered).
And the rest of the wiring is connected at the factory. A motorcycle sometimes travels 1 km. sasa777
04/12/2010 08:51 The most important thing is that when it stalls, the ignition lamp does not light up at all.
RainbowRising
04/12/2010 12:15 I’ll say again that if Akum is not dead (which is confirmed by the headlights and signal), then in general there is a deep ********** on this light bulb. it is needed to control the charging of the battery and check the integrity of the field winding, but not for the spark.

This article was written to help those motorists who decided to find and fix a malfunction in the battery charging system on IZH 12V motorcycles themselves.

Of the special instruments, you will need the simplest tester with a continuity function (tweeter) and resistance measurement. If you do not have this device, then you can use a light bulb with a battery to determine the contact or break in the circuit.

In this case, you need to install a well-charged battery on the motorcycle, or power the on-board network from another external power source with a constant voltage of 12 V. First of all, we check the presence of voltage with the ignition switch on at the positive terminal of the regulator relay. There should be +12v.

If there is no voltage, then we look for a break from the positive terminal of the battery through the ignition switch and to the + terminal on the relay regulator.

Next, we measure the voltage on the brushes. There should be +12V on one of the brushes. If not, we call the wiring from the relay to the generator brushes.

Next step. We take the brushes out of the holder and ring each of them from the terminal to the graphite. It happens that at the point of contact of the wire with the graphite body of the brush itself, the contact is lost.

Troubleshooting the generator

Three phase wires are disconnected from the stator and the winding (connected to each other according to a star circuit) is connected. That is, the windings should ring with each other and have approximately the same resistance. If some winding does not ring, this means that there is a break and the stator is not working properly.

Next, all three phases are called relative to the body (mass). If it rings, it means the windings are broken into the housing and the stator is not working properly.

Anchor

We ring the armature winding (on copper rings). If the rings ring among themselves - good, if not - there is a break, the armature is not working.

The next step is to wire the armature winding relative to the armature body.

If it doesn’t ring, it’s good; if it rings, the winding is broken into the housing and the armature is not working properly!

That's it with the generator.

Relay regulator

If all the wiring is in order, the brushes, stator and rotor are ringing and everything is working, all that remains is the relay regulator! In my experience, even if you don’t have much knowledge of radio electronics, you can at least remove the back cover of the relay regulator and wipe off all the dirt. Carefully look at all the contacts, fastening parts, wires, jumpers; sometimes the contact or soldering simply falls off due to vibration. The diode bridge is practically “eternal”. But the control thyristors sometimes fly out! They are also called simply - to check for breakdown on the housing and between the cathode and the control electrode!

They are also easy to change; a 10 mm nut is unscrewed from below and the wires are unsoldered from above.

That's basically it. And there is absolutely no need to change entire components at random; there can be a lot of reasons, even banal bad contact on the chips or oxidation of the wires in the connector

The editors of the magazine thank Sergei Sharikov for kindly providing materials for the article.

If you have something to share with readers and would like to publish your story or photo report about your travels on our website, please send the materials to: [email protected]

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“If there is no charging on the Izh Jupiter motorcycle. ”

The ignition and charging lamp does not light up, there is no power on the relay and there is no power from it to the lamp, what is the problem

Another problem with charging could be a break in one of the brushes. The lamp will not light up at all. Check the lamp itself and the brushes.

The ignition light does not go out + when the battery is disconnected during operation, the motorcycle stalls

Check the BPV block 14, most likely the reason lies there.

Messages [1 to 20 of 25]

1↑ Topic from Rostik73RU 07/23/2017 13:39:16

Subject: no charging

2↑ Reply from andre52 07/23/2017 15:42:30

Re: charging lost

There is an option to clear all critical connections.

3↑ Reply from Rostik73RU 07/23/2017 15:51:28

Re: charging lost

There is an option to clear all critical connections.

I checked them first.

4↑ Reply from andre52 07/23/2017 22:06:02

Re: charging lost

Then get into the gene.

5↑ Reply from Rostik73RU 07/24/2017 16:05:14

Re: charging lost

Today I took off the brushes and are they normal or do they need replacement, please take a look and give me some advice? (I just never came across this before) Here is a photo External link

Why does my motorcycle battery drain quickly?

There are several main reasons why a battery drains quickly:

Spent resource. If the battery has worked for more than a certain period of time, it can run down, as they say, to zero. This often happens when parked, when the battery is completely discharged in a short period of time.
Leakage current. This may occur due to a faulty security alarm or a long-lasting alarm, which causes a leak and drains the battery.
Damaged relay. This blocks charging from the generator while driving. This malfunction is detected by turning on the headlights and increasing engine speed. If the brightness of the headlight decreases, the device will obviously need to be replaced.
Problem with the generator. To check its serviceability, you need to measure the battery voltage with the headlight on (low beam): if the relay-regulator and the generator are working, it will be 13.8 volts at 2000 rpm.
Low temperatures. In winter, the battery discharges faster.

Any battery, even the highest quality, can, under certain circumstances, quickly discharge and lose its functions.

On average, a high-quality battery lasts up to 5 years. Long and frequent operation of the battery, very low and high temperatures significantly affect performance, reduce the battery capacity, which leads to its rapid discharge.

Scheme and principle of operation

The operation of the stabilizer for all models is almost the same and consists in distributing the current supplied from the generator to stabilize it and further distribute it to consumers.

The operation of the stabilizer is almost the same for all models

The main peripheral consumers of the scooter include:

battery;
indicators;
light bulbs;
sensors;
enrichment agent;
other nodes;
starting enrichment.

How does the stabilizer work? The main principle of its operation is to act as a transformer, which lowers the voltage to an optimal level acceptable for the operation of electrical appliances, and also stabilizes the network and prevents unexpected power surges.

If the relay malfunctions, the scooter’s devices fail, quickly wear out or burn out.

Signs of a generator malfunction

Modern passenger cars are literally crammed with electronics; there are several dozen sensors alone, and over time the situation only gets worse. Automakers try to increase the power of the generator according to the needs of the on-board network, but this is not always possible, and therefore, if problems arise with the battery, it cannot be ruled out that it is simply not charged when the engine is running.

How can you understand that the generator does not charge the battery, or that it is not able to cover the loss of battery charge when starting the engine?

There are several signs indicating that the culprit of undercharging is the generator unit:

light indication in the form of a lit battery symbol;
insufficiently bright headlights;
extraneous noise heard from the generator;
interruptions in battery operation.

The combination of any two of these signs should alert you.

Note that all malfunctions associated with the operation of the unit responsible for powering the vehicle are divided into mechanical and electrical. The first include loosening of fasteners, wear of bearings and brushes, breakage of pressure springs, loosening of the drive belt tension, etc. There are also many electrical reasons - problems with wiring (breaks, short circuits), windings, burnout of the diode bridge, breakdowns, etc. .

An extreme case is a complete failure of the generator, which will simply immobilize your car. But this is not always a death sentence. In many cases the problem is fixable, although in some cases it will cost money, time and effort.

Replacing a generator is generally required only when the breakdown is quite serious, and the cost of repair, if possible, is not much cheaper than a new device.