Reasons for repair
The most popular reason to repair a Ural motorcycle is considered to be insufficient dynamics of the motorcycle, smoke from the muffler, loss of traction at high speeds, and a decrease in maximum speed. Reasons that even inexperienced riders can note include increased fuel and oil consumption. If such problems appear, there is no need to disassemble the engine right away; first you should check the ignition, then the carburetor settings, measure the compression and check the valve adjustment, and after eliminating all other problems, you should get into the engine and repair the Ural motorcycle engine.
You might be interested in how to tune a Ural motorcycle. A detailed description of possible directions for tuning a bike!
More experienced owners may suspect a problem by the sound of the engine. Specific noise reveals a number of problems that are determined with high accuracy.
There are also a number of reasons to repair the engine that are not related to its breakdown. For example, the engine can be rebuilt during a long period of inactivity, during restoration, after a long mileage, and so on.
How much adrenaline is in your blood
- excellent maintainability and reliability. In most cases, a motorcycle can be easily repaired in the field, because its design is quite simple. If you properly care for your equipment, it can last for several decades. And the domestic bike is not picky about the quality of oil and fuel;
- high cross-country ability. Perhaps the main advantage for which the motorcycle was valued during the war years, being a full-fledged combat unit. All Ural models feel great off-road, but at high speeds they lose stability.
Heavy Ural motorcycles are loved by Russian and foreign consumers.
They are not without their drawbacks:
- high fuel consumption at low speed. Experienced motorists reduce gasoline consumption through modernization, so this disadvantage can be combated;
- high price. The price of a new Ural motorcycle ranges from 500 to 650 thousand rubles, which is comparable to buying a new budget foreign car. The cost of motorcycles increased due to the fact that developers began to use foreign-made spare parts for the Ural motorcycle, which led to an increase in production costs.
Motor defective
The process of disassembling the motor is quite complicated, but what is more important is that the existing gaps “go away.” Thus, if you disassemble the motor and then reassemble it without repair, extraneous noise is likely to appear due to the increase in gaps. Therefore, experienced mechanics advise, first of all, to assess the condition of the motor without disassembling the main elements, or to carry out a partial disassembly, then carry out troubleshooting and, based on its results, decide whether to make repairs or not. A malfunction can be determined “by ear” if:
- The engine rings loudly during operation, in all speed ranges, and the ringing partially turns into loud noise when the engine is warm and at high speeds.
Reason: wear of the piston pin and the appearance of an excessively large gap between the pin and the bushing. Solution: first of all, you can set the ignition later, in some cases this either completely eliminates the noise, or it becomes insignificant, which allows you to use the motorcycle for some time. If this does not help, then the old pins are replaced with new ones, as well as the connecting rod bushings with their subsequent development.
- The engine rings, tapping is slightly audible, the sound is dull, increasing under load and at high speeds.
Reason: the appearance of a gap between the pin and the piston boss. Solution: replace the pin + piston set with new ones of the same group.
- The engine knocks metal on metal at idle, and at high speeds there is a strong ringing and vibration.
Reason: clearance between piston and cylinder. Solution: selecting a new piston of the next repair size and boring the cylinder for a new piston group.
- A dull knock in the crankcase area, clearly audible at idle and when releasing gas.
Reason: This sound may indicate an increase in the gap between the lower end of the connecting rod and the crankshaft crank pin.
By the behavior of the motorcycle you can find out about the following problems:
- High oil consumption, loss of power and excessive exhaust smoke.
Cause: worn piston rings. Solution: complete replacement of the piston rings, and if there is damage to the cylinder plane, boring it, with subsequent repairs.
Owners of the Ural motorcycle most often encounter similar problems. As you can see, most problems are diagnosed by craftsmen “by ear”, and despite all the primitiveness, the result turns out to be very accurate. Assuming there is a problem with the motor, you should stock up on a set of necessary pullers, keys and repair parts, and only then begin disassembly.
Approximate cost of accessories and spare parts
The modern Ural motorcycle uses foreign-made spare parts. They are quite expensive. For example, a complete engine assembly will cost around 30 thousand rubles. A carburetor for a domestically produced Ural motorcycle can be found for 1,000 rubles, replacing a driveshaft will cost 5,000 or more, and prices for a crankshaft vary from 5 to 20 thousand. Foreign-made valves for a Ural motorcycle can be purchased at prices ranging from 400 to 700 rubles.
Almost any oil can be poured into the Ural motorcycle - the classics are not picky about its quality.
Dismantling the Ural motorcycle engine
Repair of a Ural motorcycle should be carried out in stages. The first step is to prepare your garage and the engine itself. All dirt and oil must be washed off the engine so that they do not get inside. Laying a film on the floor will help protect the garage floor, because it is easier to throw away a piece of cellophane than to remove the remaining grease from the garage floor. Disassembly process:
- Unscrew the nuts holding the cylinder cover and remove it. Next, unscrew the nuts securing the cylinder head, put the rocker arms and rods into the box and pull the head off the studs.
- Remove the cylinder mounting nuts and, shaking, carefully remove the cylinder from the studs.
- We remove the retaining rings and press out the piston pin with a special puller.
- Unscrew the screws securing the gas distribution mechanism and remove the crankcase cover.
- Unscrew the camshaft flange, remove the plug in the upper part of the crankcase and the oil pump drive.
- Using mounting blades, remove the camshaft.
- We bend the lock washer and then unscrew the screw securing the gear on the crankshaft journal. Using mounting blades, remove the drive gear.
- Unscrew the screws of the upper clutch disc.
- We mark the disks in the position they were in.
- Remove the bolt securing the flywheel to the crankshaft.
- Remove the flywheel from the conical part of the shaft.
- Remove the bolts from the rear main bearing housing.
- We remove the engine sump, and with it the filter and oil pump.
- We press the crankshaft out of the front bearing and remove it from the crankcase.
Following this diagram, you will be able to get to the main parts of the engine in order to conduct a full diagnostic of the gaps and, if necessary, replace the parts with new ones. It is worth noting that if a part has a gap close to wear, then it is better to replace it, since most new spare parts lead to increased load on the entire engine while it is running in. Such increased pressure on old components can lead to their wear, which means the appearance of noise.
We recommend carrying out comprehensive repairs before the start of the season. This approach will allow you to get rid of all problems with mismatched gaps and skate several seasons without worries. Otherwise, the motorcycle engine may break down at the height of the season and make it impossible to move on two wheels for a long time.
avtorep.ru
A Ural motorcycle has been in the garage since 1998. The motorcycle is separate, the engine is separate, the gearbox is in a completely different corner. I spent my entire childhood on this motorcycle, after buying a car, they forgot about it. And so I decided to restore it...
First, it was decided to deal with the engine, since, according to the owner, the crankshaft was knocking. Therefore, we immediately began disassembling the engine.
Removing the cylinders
I removed the heads, checked the piston clearances in the cylinders, everything was fine, only the right cylinder had a rusty emulsion - apparently moisture had gotten in. But fortunately the cylinder mirror was not damaged.
I checked the gaps on the fingers - everything is within normal limits. I pressed out the fingers, marked where the right and left parts of the cylinders were and put them aside.
Removing the clutch
Then I started disassembling the clutch to remove the flywheel. A simple screwdriver and hammer blows were not enough to unscrew the screws the first time. There is no point in buying an impact screwdriver just for one use. I turned on my ingenuity. And so he pressed the engine from the frontal side into the opening of the garage door, and pressed the screwdriver to the bolt with the help of a block and a jack, and with a gas wrench tore off the metal beads. And then everything opened without problems. I removed the clutch and started disassembling the frontal part, since I didn’t have a 36mm socket wrench on hand to unscrew the flywheel.
Removing the timing belt
In the frontal part, everything is disassembled simply, the cover is unscrewed, the ignition is removed, the ignition coil is removed, then the windshield is unscrewed. I unscrewed the two bolts that hold the camshaft and placed two mounting brackets under the camshaft gear using rags. And he pulled out the camshaft and gear. Upon inspection, no wear was found in the timing gears. The bearing is also in excellent condition. I secured the pushers with electrical tape to prevent them from falling into the crankcase and getting tangled.
Ural motorcycle engine assembly
After the repair, assembly should be carried out based on the diagram described above; it is carried out in the reverse order. Please note that not only the repair itself, but also the accuracy of assembly affects the reliability of the motor. Owners often complain that the engine performs even worse than before the repair, forgetting that the reason for this behavior of the engine was precisely poor-quality repairs.
After the engine is assembled, check the ignition adjustments, carburetor settings and valve clearances. If everything is in order, you can start the engine and make adjustments to the settings at idle and while driving. Don't forget that new parts should be run in. Properly worn parts are less likely to fail during the season. If everything was done correctly, then the repair of the Ural motorcycle will pleasantly surprise you, first of all, with improved acceleration, gas response and maximum speed.
Specifications and model description
All modern Uralov models (Tourist, Tourist 2WD, Gear-UP and Troika) have similar technical indicators:
- Fuel tank capacity 19 l.
- The maximum speed it can reach is 105 km/h.
- Fuel consumption: in city driving conditions - 6-7 liters per 100 km, in highway driving conditions - 4-5 liters.
- Engine: 2-cylinder, 4-stroke boxer OHV, 745 cc. cm., power 42 hp.
- Starting system: kickstarter and electric starter.
- Front brakes are hydraulic disc, rear drum.
- The front suspension is wishbone with spring shock absorbers, and the rear suspension is pendulum with hydraulic shock absorbers. The Troika has a telescopic front one.
A little history
The products of the Irbit Motorcycle Plant are well known not only in our country. Various models, whose design originates from the pre-war BMW R71, have retained their parental genes for seventy years. True, the prefix “Ural” appeared in their name a little later. Since 1961, it has been assigned to the following modifications:
- M-62(1961 – 1963).
- M-63 (1963 - 1971) - this was the so-called Ural-2.
- M-66 (1973 – 1975) received the Ural-3 marking.
Next, it was decided to limit ourselves to the name Ural, removing the additional digital index and leaving only the factory designation.
- M-67 (1973 – 1976).
- M-67-36 (1976 – 1983).
- IMZ-8 (this model has been produced since 1985 and has many different versions).
And this is not counting special versions and limited editions. But in the process of tuning a motorcycle, any of the listed modifications have a lot in common. Despite the changes in the name, all models are similar in design and have similar technical characteristics.
Replacing the crankshaft
So I decided to post detailed instructions for replacing the crankshaft. because didn't find it on the site. And there are plenty of people writing: “How can I get this damn crankshaft out?”
Literature “The World of Autobooks”. Ural. Operation, maintenance, repair.
A book on the new 750 Ural. Publishing house "World of Autobooks." Posted on this site many times.
Not a single file hosting service found by searching works anymore. Plus you need to download and search for the page. And here right away.
After reading the article, the question came up again. When I remove the cover (rear crankshaft bearing support), the bearing remains on the crankshaft, the fit is much stronger there. And on the shank there is no retaining ring that secures the bearing, and there is also no groove for it. If the bearing remains on the shank and not in the cap, does this mean that the bearing seat in the cap is broken?
