Home / Repair and maintenance
The oil in the gearbox should be replaced after the first 500 km, and then every 10,000 thousand km.
It is better to change the oil immediately after a trip, while it is hot.
1. Place the motorcycle on the center stand.
2. We place a wide container with a volume of 1.5-2 liters under the engine crankcase.
3. 22 mm
Unscrew the drain plug located at the bottom of the crankcase and drain the oil.
When the bulk of the oil has flowed out, tilt the motorcycle slightly to the right side so that the oil completely flows out of the engine transmission compartment.
4. Close the drain plug.
5. Using a slotted screwdriver, loosen the rear screw securing the hatch-emblem on the left crankcase cover, and unscrew the front screw completely.
6. Turn the hatch on the rear screw, opening the window in the crankcase cover. Fill the crankcase with a liter of engine oil.
For convenience, you can tilt or lay the motorcycle on the right side.
7. Close the hatch and tighten the screws that secure it. Wipe off any oil stains from the crankcase surface.
Attention!
The use of gear oil for a motorcycle gearbox is undesirable. Due to the higher viscosity of transmission oil, especially in cold weather and after a long stay, it is possible for the clutch discs to “stick together” with the corresponding consequences (the clutch does not disengage at all or “drives”).
If the oil drained from the gearbox is heavily contaminated, has a dark color and metal particles are clearly visible in it, it is recommended to flush the gearbox before adding fresh oil. To do this, pour about 0.5 liters of a mixture of any clean motor or transmission oil into the crankcase in half with kerosene, white spirit or diesel fuel. Having hung the rear wheel, we start the engine and, changing gears, “twist” the gearbox for 2-3 minutes, washing it. After this, quickly drain the flushing mixture and pour fresh oil into the gearbox.
What kind of oil should I pour into the gearbox on Izh Jupiter 5?
Ilya (Jayantika) I filled the transmission and so far everything is fine...
Sergey (Azaria) the mineral transmission is quite normal.
Alexey (Sandra) diesel is possible
Ilya (Jayantika) Alexey, it’s normal to pour diesel into the tank, otherwise it’s the first time I’ve heard of that!
Sergey (Azaria) on Jupiter the gearbox is rough. Diesel oil softens the shifting a little.
Ilya (Jayantika) Sergey, do you know that the box, Jupiter, and the planet are the same! The only thing about Jupiter is that the switching sector works differently...
Sergey (Azaria) Ilya, I know. Only on the planet it is falling apart faster.
Ilya (Jayantika) NOTHING LIKE THIS! My dad has 24,000 miles on his motorcycle on the 3rd circuit, the engine was halved twice (both times replacing oil seals and KV bearings)… there were no problems with the gearbox….
Sergey (Azaria) 24 thousand is not a mileage. And with the box it means you were lucky.
Ilya (Jayantika) Sergey, how are you reading? 24 thousand on the 3rd circle of the speedometer!
Evgeny (Cordula) Ilya, how much oil do you need in the box?
Ilya (Jayantika) liter...on all models...
Sergey (Azaria) Ilya, the speedometer on our vehicles is usually numbered up to 100 thousand.
Ilya (Jayantika) Sergey, my father himself told me that this is already the 3rd round...
Sergey (Azaria) Ilya, then this “planet” is eternal!)
Zhenya (Bertilde) how to soften gear shifting on Jupiter 5, they shift quite hard and loud.
Sergey (Azaria) Guys, maybe an industrial I-20?
Nikolay (Cynfor) Surely the book indicates the usual M8V transmission, thick for clutch in an oil bath.
Arkadiy (Webster) I use diesel, both in gasoline and in a box, or better yet17
Tags: What kind of oil to pour into the Izh Jupiter 5 engine
Installation of bearings and seals
We install a retaining ring in the left half of the crankcase.
Depending on the model of the main oil seal, we install a spacer sleeve in the mounting hole of the main bearing, or, if the oil seal was initially wide (there are some), we heat the crankcase and, on the inside of the crankcase, place the oil seal until it stops against the retaining ring.
My engine had a regular narrow oil seal, so I put in a bushing.
Using a mandrel, install the main oil seal into the preheated crankcase.
Quickly, before the crankcase cools down, place the oil guide washer on the oil seal. The oil guide washer has a saucer-shaped profile. We place it on the oil seal so that the concave side faces us, and the curved side faces the clutch basket.
While the crankcase has not cooled down, we press the outer race of the main bearing into it using a mandrel.
If you are going to replace the main bearings with new ones, don’t be lazy: find a sheet of iron 7-8 mm thick, cut a wedge in it for the connecting rod, pass the sheet of iron between the cheeks of the crankshaft and use a mandrel to drive the main bearing onto the axle.
This way you will protect yourself from damage to the crankshaft. The main bearing has a very high interference and fits into the axle with a very large force. It is not uncommon for people to simply knock out the axle (the axle on the planetary crankshaft is pressed into the cheek) inside the crankshaft, but they were never able to put the bearing on.
Native made in USSR 2505 KM
Common faults
The most common problem with IZ Planet 5 is the spontaneous switching off of second gear. This problem is common on many other motorcycles, but this breakdown is often associated with careless gear shifting. When the first gear “spins” to high speeds, bypassing the “neutral” gear, the engagement with the second speed gear causes an impact, which causes wear. To prevent such a malfunction, it is not recommended to spin the first gear too much. But if the second one still dies, then some ways to eliminate the problem are possible:
The simplest method that will help in some cases. Place the motorcycle on its right side, then remove the kick starter and gear shift lever along with the shaft. Then remove the left crankcase cover, and then remove the clutch basket along with the discs. During operation, the gearbox gears wear out, which causes the meshing of the teeth to deteriorate. This leads to slipping and jerking of the transmission until the second gear fails. Sometimes, when replacing a gear, the problem is not always solved, and lies in the wear of the bearings of the input shaft, which moves to the left over time due to vibrations. To fix the problem, you need to remove the stopper of the input shaft bearing, then move this bearing with light blows of a mallet or with a hammer through the “spacer”, so as to move the shaft to the right. To fix it in this position, you should place washers of appropriate diameter under the bearing. Using the number and thickness of washers, ensure that there is no play in the input shaft, then return the bearing stopper to its place, reassemble the clutch basket and other parts in the reverse order.
- If fourth gear disappears. This is often due to failure of the secondary shaft bearings. This is due to the appearance of axial play in the secondary shaft when the bearings are displaced or fail. This malfunction can be repaired in the same way as repairing the second gear by removing the left crankcase cover.
- If the gear shift jams from upshift to downshift, the spring of the shift mechanism pawls has broken and must be replaced.
- If the gearbox switches tightly after assembly, it indicates incorrect installation of the adjusting washers.
We would like to warn you right away: you should mark and write down the previous location of the adjusting washers when dismantling the switching mechanism.
Izh motorcycle engine oil - how often to change
The engine oil in IZH motorcycle engines must be changed every 5 thousand km or earlier, depending on how quickly the lubricant loses its useful properties. Signs of deteriorating fluid quality are insufficient oil level, cloudiness, wear debris in the form of sediment, and a burning smell. The shelf life of the lubricant can be negatively affected by intense driving with sharp maneuvers, sudden starts and braking, frequent off-road travel and towing heavy trailers. All this puts a significant load on the engine, which overheats, and spoiled oil is not able to effectively lubricate and cool the internal combustion engine parts.
Preparing for assembly
Preparation for assembly can be divided into two main stages: measuring and, if necessary, eliminating the axial play of the tracer shaft and checking the suitability of the secondary shaft bearing for further operation.
The first stage is measuring and eliminating the axial play of the copy shaft
We put adjusting washers on the tracking shaft from the locking side. In my case, there were four adjusting washers, but you may have more or less, or maybe not... We move the locking bar to the side and install the copy shaft in its place. We put a standard thrust washer on the second end of the tracing shaft.
We place a new gasket (required) on the plane of the gearbox cover connector, on which you will later finally assemble the gearbox, and tighten the gearbox cover fastening screws with the required force.
We turn the engine over and measure the axial play of the copy shaft, the norm is 0.2-0.4 mm, but it will be better if you can ensure the axial play at a level of no more than 0.2 mm. Adjustment of axial play is accomplished by simply adding or removing shims.
I measure the play with an indicator. If you don’t have one, try measuring the backlash with a caliper; if you don’t have a caliper, so be it - measure by eye...
Second stage: checking the suitability of the secondary shaft for further use
Under normal operating conditions, the secondary shaft bearing runs for quite a long time. But no matter how much we want and try, it wears out. It would be nothing if it weren’t for safety: if your secondary shaft bearing falls apart while driving, and it will certainly fly apart if you don’t change it in time, the gearbox sticks together with the rear wheel, and it’s tight and you’re grinding the asphalt with your butt...
Carefully, take out the secondary shaft over some tray and carefully inspect the shaft bearing raceway, the races and the rollers themselves. The working surfaces of the bearing and rollers should be free of holes, edges, signs of wear or overheating. The path must have a perfectly flat working surface.
Example of a secondary shaft race and race in perfect condition.
To facilitate reassembly, apply some kind of lubricant, such as lithol, to the treadmill and carefully place the rollers on the track and, turning it a little, insert the shaft into the cage. As soon as the sprocket splines rest against the edge of the oil seal, use a thin screwdriver in a circle to straighten the edge of the oil seal and push the shaft until it stops. And immediately, so that the shaft does not fall out, put the sprocket on it and secure it with a nut.
How I found a good motorcycle oil
During my life I have ridden different motorcycles, while I rode Minsk, Voskhod, IZH-Planet, I didn’t even think about oil, the engines worked fine. But when I bought the IZH-PS, after the first good race my piston jammed, I thought about it, there were only problems with the IZH-PS, as long as I don’t give the gas it goes all the way, but as soon as I give it the gas the piston or crankshaft jams. Disappointed in IZH-PS.
In my youth, I was involved in motocross for two years, we had cross-country ChZs, I remember there were no major problems with the piston ones, although they kicked them in the ass, oh so good, I also remember that the smell of smoke from the exhaust was very different from the usual smoke of a motorcycle. But the fool didn’t ask the coach what kind of oil he poured into the gasoline, but I know for sure that in addition to oil, he added castor oil, but since I don’t know exactly the composition of gasoline and oil for a motocross motorcycle, I won’t lie and invent anything.
I bought a cross-country ChZ-250, at first I poured two-stroke oil into the gasoline, but as soon as I gave it in, I felt that the engine was starting to drag (it might jam), I had to let off the gas and switch to moderate engine speeds.
Chance helped, I decided to go fishing on the cross-country ChZ-250, you can drive it off-road, shortening the distance, but I ran out of two-stroke oil, the question arose of what oil to dilute the gasoline with. There was only four-stroke semi-synthetic LUKOIL oil, I decided to dilute the gasoline with this oil, I think I won’t drive it, I’ll get there slowly and won’t harm the engine. But what a surprise I was when the motorcycle engine started running much softer, pulled faster, although I diluted the gasoline with four-stroke semi-synthetic oil, applied gas, beautifully, the engine was flogging and there were no signs of the piston sticking.
By the time I got to the pond, I was squeezing this cross-country ChZ-250 to the maximum, I got great pleasure from the ride, since then I have been diluting gasoline in my motorcycle and chainsaw only with four-stroke semi-synthetic oil, very pleased.
It turns out that four-stroke semi-synthetic oil is the best oil for a two-stroke engine and is cheaper than special two-stroke oil.
If you don’t believe me, check for yourself which is the best oil.
Planet-5 gearbox repair
The gearbox is repaired after disassembling the gearbox. At this stage, the cause of the malfunction is identified and the necessary parts are replaced. At the same time, it is best to buy parts as a set, so there will be no discrepancies in size during assembly of the unit. If you follow the instructions given above, you can easily repair the gearbox yourself. For convenience, parts can be signed during disassembly. They should be laid out on a clean surface to prevent foreign bodies from getting into the structure in the future.
The result depends on the quality of the work performed. Therefore, it is important to carefully monitor the implementation of all points for assembling the gearbox with new parts, with the help of which the old ones were replaced.
