What kind of oil to fill in the Irbis TTR 250 engine

Fuel: Petrol Drive unit: Chain Number of cylinders: 1 Valves per cylinder: 2 Working volume: 233 cc cm. Power: 16 hp / 12 kW

Engine/transmission 5

Motobike 4-T Ester 10W-40

For motorcycles

Semi-synthetic motor oil specially designed for 4-stroke motorcycle engines. Ensures fuel economy and protects the engine under extremely difficult operating conditions

API:

SM
Compliance:
JASO MA, JASO MA2 T903:2006 (MO49RAV112)
OEM equivalents:
Kawasaki K61021202A, Kawasaki K61021302, Yamalube LUB10W40AP12, Yamalube LUB10W40WV12 Detailed description.

Professional Engine Cleaner

Additive

A product for flushing the oil system of gasoline and diesel engines, atmospheric and turbocharged, with or without a catalytic converter, using any type of fuel.

Hydraulic brake system

DOT 4

For brake system

The brake fluid is intended for use in vehicle brake systems requiring FMVSS quality level.

Correspondence:

ASTM D6278,
OEM analogs:
BMW 83130443023, BMW 83130443024, BMW 83130443026, BMW 83130443027, BMW 83130443028, BMW 83130443029, BMW 83132405977, Chrysler 04318080AD, Chrysler 04549625AD, Ford 1114400, Ford 1114401, Ford 1114402, Ford 1114403, Ford 1114404, Ford 1114405 , Ford 1114406, Ford 1114407, Ford 1135515, Ford 1135516, Ford 1135517, Ford 1135518, Ford 1135519, Ford 1135520, Ford 1135521, Ford 1135522, Ford 1776308, Ford 1776310, Ford 1776311, Ford 1847945, Ford 1847946, Ford 1847947, Ford 1850519, Ford 1850521, Ford 1850522, Ford PM1C, GM 1942058, GM 1942420, GM 1942421, GM 1942422, GM 93160362, GM 93160363, GM 93160364, GM 93165408, GM 9316 5409, GM 93742652, GM 93746316, GM 93746642, Honda 0820300031, Honda 0820300038, Honda 0820399931, Honda 0820399932HE, Honda 0820399938, Honda 0820399938HE, Honda 87989008, Honda 820399938, Hyundai Motor 0110000A00, Hyundai Motor 0110000A00, Hyundai Motor 011 0000100, Hyundai Motor 0110000100, Hyundai Motor 0110000110, Hyundai Motor 0110000110, Hyundai Motor 110000120, Jaguar C2D34402, Land Rover LR052652, Land Rover LR052653, Mazda 11877097, Mazda 830077206, Mazda K500W0001B, Mazda K500WO001B, MB A0009890807, MB A000989080713, Mitsubishi MZ101244, Mitsubishi MZ101245, Mitsubishi MZ320393, Mitsubishi MZ320394, Nissan KE90300032, Nissan KE90399932, Nissan KE90399932R, Nissan KN10030005, Porsche P1204114, PSA 1610725580, PSA DLM0008834, Renault 7711218589, Renault 7711575504, SsangYong 000000R117, SsangYong 000000R403, SsangYong 000000011 7, SsangYong LLKDOT4004, Subaru K0579GA100, Suzuki 990F0BFDT4EC1, Suzuki 990F0BFDT4EC2, Suzuki 990F0BFDT4001, Suzuki 990LM08834, Suzuki 990023040D04, Suzuki 9900023040, Suzuki 9900023140D04, SWAG 30926461, SWAG 32923930, Toyota 0882300090, Toyota 0882380010, Toyota 0882380011, Toyota 0882380111, Toyota 0882380111, Toyota 0882380112, Toyota 08 82380113, Toyota 0888200190, Toyota 0888200191, Volvo 9437430, Volvo 9437431, Volvo 31400202, Volvo 31400204, Volvo 32214958 , VW B000750M1, VW B000750M3, VW B000750M6 Detailed description.

What kind of oil to fill in the Irbis TTR 250 engine

With PTS I’ll try to do it in the near future
Directly from Vladik

This is what My horse promised:

here is the frame number in the PTS

I own a Chinese piece of shit called Lifan-200. After two years of operation, I can boldly and frankly say CHINA IS SHIT, no matter what brand it is. Don’t make such mistakes, don’t buy KITAIGOVNOMOTOPROM. I shoveled it all over from head to ass, and it needs to be repaired again, I’ll do it and try to sell it - it’ll cost more to drive.

This is what My horse promised:

here is the frame number in the PTS

I want the same Honda, I’ll definitely buy it for next season

From personal experience, the moto is good, but I would advise you to take a regular XR because the headlight with a yoke on my motorcycle cannot stand falling))))) such a chandelier comes in handy very rarely

Today I’m also wiping my pants, so I’ll put in my 2 cents.

very well said!

how many people have so many opinions... and yet they drive differently and everyone has different requirements.

one will go fishing and pick mushrooms on a stunted Chinese for 10 years and praise. and the other, having galloped through the ravines, will tie the frame in a knot and then shout that China is shit.

Here’s a story from my very distant past: my grandfather-neighbor in the Ural went for mushrooms for 15 years and he was like new! and I bought it from him and turned it into a piece of scrap metal in six months. As if crazy, he jumped through the forests until he broke his spine. It is clear that the Urals of that time, like the Chinese of today, required special attention and constant maintenance, but all the same, any thing is intended for a specific purpose... everyone has their own niche. and you can’t use it for its intended purpose!

Jaeger, I respect you

But I disagree on some points. If initially the spare parts have no quality, to put it mildly.

I haven’t seen many ketais that live to such years and mileage. Wedges and stalingrads are a natural consequence of wear, improper operation and/or clogging for maintenance. And this, as a rule, does not happen in the first year, not in the first 10 thousand kilometers and not under the first owner. In normal hands, a single-barrel chekushka gun runs 40-60 tkm to the capital. How many ketays of scattered stuff do you need to fill before you reel in that much?

I haven’t seen many ketais that live to such years and mileage. In normal hands, a single-barrel chekushka gun runs 40-60 tkm to the capital. How many ketays of scattered stuff do you need to fill before you reel in that much?

It’s the same with breakages of ketays. Some people end up with no luck and they drive around the dacha happily ever after, while others get completely screwed.

With a normal BU, at least you know where to expect trouble with such a mileage, and many signs emerge before His Majesty arrives and are identifiable during diagnosis. With ketays, the quality of parts made is low and often random within one or several neighboring series, so they can die not from wear, but simply from loads, often quite normal; it is already difficult to predict this when checking the technical condition of your maped.

And I’ve been thinking about winter, I’m thinking about taking the IRBIS TTR 125 2013 model year for the winter. It seems like the problems of the first generation, such as the falling off kickstarter and bad light, have been eliminated.

There seems to be no need for a road bike in winter; I can’t handle an adult endurik.

I am the owner of an Irbis TTR 250, model until 2013. Bought a motorcycle in April in new condition. Bought consciously. To date I have driven about 1500 km, I don’t remember the engine hour readings. 95% of the mileage is on primers, I practically don’t drive on special roads.

Irbis ttr 250 engine tuning

So, good day everyone! To some, happy season, to others, to a speedy season! This is a continuation post based on this: Tyk

Finally got around to it and had time to put TyTyrchik in order (yeah, it’s time for the season XD). There were no major alterations, other than some minor filing of the frame. In principle, all the Chinese (Irbis for sure) are guilty of a very poor body kit and inattention to detail, but with the engine, carbs and gearbox, everything seems to be fine with them, according to my observations and readings of thematic forums. If you are interested, read on... The picture is purely to dilute the text, you can’t see any special alterations on it =)

What we have in the source:

1) Construction set “IRBIS TTR 250 2013” 2) The desire to make a motorcycle out of it for muddying and fun off-road rides 3) Almost straight hands, creative thinking and help from people

Which units require improvement:

1) Plastic (+ tail part of the frame) The plastic here is complete crap, very fragile and in places too thin. For some reason, the frame at the back is too long and goes right under the wing (apparently a rudiment from another version of the TTR250, where the ability to carry a passenger is present). We delete it, but more on that later. Photo for now (already sawed off): 2) Steering column and steering wheel spacers There is no protection (seal) on the bottom of the steering column and all the lubricant from it slowly crawls out and crawls away in an unknown direction (there is a way to solve the problem, but haven’t gotten around to it yet) .Unfortunately, there are no photos, but I think you can imagine for yourself. And also the steering spacers are attached to the traverse in an ugly way, but you remember this from the last post: 3) All the levers and legs + footrests There’s nothing to say, silumin and that’s it. And the footrests are slippery 4) Chain, sprockets, chain guard and drive sprocket cover The chain, like all Chinese chains, stretches like rubber. The sprockets are quite good, but I wanted a bigger rear one (but no luck, I can’t find a good Japanese analogue so that it fits on the same seats, well, what the heck with them). The sprocket cover is not particularly needed, and dirt gets clogged under it along with the grass, let's cut off a piece. The chain guard has fallen apart and is flimsy. Let's insert a piece of sheet steel into it and rivet it, it will be great. The chain roller is bent and the bearings in it are dead, they are jammed, we will replace them. New bearings: 5) Headlight What happened to it everyone remembers?))) So this is exactly what had to be repaired and strengthened with normal materials, and not with thin and flimsy plastic. More on this later.

6) Battery location and wiring Well, there’s actually a seam there... you open the seat, and there the wiring is somehow lying there and the battery is stuck in there so that it’s not clear how to remove it without disassembling the floor of the motorcycle. At the same time, the terminals are not closed well and the electrolyte is flowing... a terrible picture... brrr Everything is put in order. Everything seems... phew

What was purchased:

I’ll make a reservation right away that not all the components that require improvement have yet been brought to mind and to their logical conclusion, therefore not everything has been purchased yet and only a small part is shown in the photo.

A Delta battery to replace the old one, new handles and gearbox foot, front and rear fenders from a Yamaha yzf 250, oil, bearings for the chain roller... the rest was either simply changed, or I already had.

Oil for enduro and motocross motorcycles

We were prompted to write this post by a survey recently conducted in the Good Enduro group. The purpose of the survey was to find out what kind of oil the participants subscribed to our VKontakte group use. Motul oil won the survey results by an incredible margin. And then we got to thinking, but it’s true that for several years in a row, when the question arises about buying oil for a motorcycle, most people ask, what kind are you using: 5100, 7100 or 300V? And only a few motorcyclists are ardent opponents of such stereotyped decisions regarding the choice of oil for a motorcycle, preferring to fill their bike with any other. Everything mentioned in the text applies to four-stroke engines.

Where did Motul come from?

So why are Motul oils so popular? Perhaps because of high consumer qualities, or is it just well-promoted marketing stuck in the minds of ordinary people? To answer this question, let’s go back a few years and remember the history of Motul’s formation in the Russian market.

Those who are older should remember that Motul appeared suddenly, boldly and very aggressively, advertising flashed at all auto and motorcycle competitions. This memorable bright red sticker with white lettering was everywhere, on the banners of racing events, on every racing car or motorcycle. Gradually, an opinion began to form that there was simply no alternative to oil for sports. And as you know, what is used in sports sooner or later flows to ordinary consumers. Everyone wants to use the best, what the champions use will definitely not let you down. But no one tells consumers how often athletes change their oil, and red stickers do not mean that this is the oil in the engine, sponsorship, a slippery business.

Thus, year after year, Motul conquered the Russian market and now every schoolchild knows that motor oil 5100 has a regular golden color, 7100 is red, and 300v is poisonous yellow-green. And if previously the price of Motul was quite affordable, now, thanks to the fact that they buy well, prices are kept at such a level that you can buy any other oil much cheaper.

Application:

DOT 4

For brake system

The brake fluid is intended for use in vehicle brake systems requiring FMVSS quality level.

Product code: 1350601

Tags:

FMVSS, FMVSS 116 DOT4, ISO 4925, All-season products, For brake systems, Passenger cars, Motorcycles, Scooters, Snowmobiles, Packaged in barrels

Approved by equipment manufacturers:

ASTM D6278

OEM analogues:

BMW 83130443023, BMW 83130443024, BMW 83130443026, BMW 83130443027, BMW 83130443028, BMW 83130443029, BMW 83132405977, Chrysler 04318080AD, Chrysler 04549625AD, Ford 1114400, Ford 1114401, Ford 1114402, Ford 1114403, Ford 1114404, Ford 1114405, Ford 1114406, Ford 1114407 , Ford 1135515, Ford 1135516, Ford 1135517, Ford 1135518, Ford 1135519, Ford 1135520, Ford 1135521, Ford 1135522, Ford 1776308, Ford 1776310, Ford 1776311, Ford 1847945, Ford 1847946, Ford 1847947, Ford 1850519, Ford 1850521, Ford 1850522, Ford PM1C, GM 1942058, GM 1942420, GM 1942421, GM 1942422, GM 93160362, GM 93160363, GM 93160364, GM 93165408, GM 93165409, GM 93742652, GM 93 746316, GM 93746642, Honda 0820300031, Honda 0820300038, Honda 0820399931, Honda 0820399932HE, Honda 0820399938, Honda 0820399938HE, Honda 87989008, Honda 820399938, Hyundai Motor 0110000A00, Hyundai Motor 0110000A00, Hyundai Motor 0110000100, Hyundai Motor 0110000100, Hyundai Motor 0 110000110, Hyundai Motor 0110000110, Hyundai Motor 110000120, Jaguar C2D34402, Land Rover LR052652, Land Rover LR052653, Mazda 11877097, Mazda 830077206, Mazda K500W0001B, Mazda K500WO001B, MB A0009890807, MB A000989080713, Mitsubishi MZ101244, Mitsubishi MZ101245, Mitsubishi MZ 320393, Mitsubishi MZ320394, Nissan KE90300032, Nissan KE90399932, Nissan KE90399932R, Nissan KN10030005, Porsche P1204114, PSA 1610725580, PSA DLM0008834, Renault 7711218589, Renault 7711575504, SsangYong 000000R117, SsangYong 000000R403, SsangYong 0000000117, SsangYong LLKDOT4004, Subaru K05 79GA100, Suzuki 990F0BFDT4EC1, Suzuki 990F0BFDT4EC2, Suzuki 990F0BFDT4001, Suzuki 990LM08834, Suzuki 990023040D04, Suzuki 9900023040, Suzuki 9900023140D04, SWAG 30926461, SWAG 32923930, Toyota 0882300090, Toyota 0882380010, Toyota 0882380011, Toyota 0882380111, Toyota 0882380111, Toyota 0882380112, Toyota 0882380113, Toyota 0888200190, Toyota 08882 00191, Volvo 9437430, Volvo 9437431, Volvo 31400202, Volvo 31400204, Volvo 32214958, VW B000750M1, VW B000750M3 , VW B000750M6

Doubts

I, the author of these thoughts, like many others, poured Motul 8100 into the engine of my car and later, motorcycle oil into pit bike and enduro engines. But the small (1.6 liter, 160 horsepower) engine of the car, despite timely replacement every 7,000 km, successfully coked, the rings sat out and no miracle happened, the oil was growing worse before our eyes. Of course, we can say that the reason is not the oil at all, but this at least suggests that it is no better than the others. But my fears were confirmed by the owners of the same cars; members of the auto club completely switched to oils of other brands.

The familiar packaging of Motul 7100 oil

The second signal that there is no need to trust blindly came from the reviews of athletes and those who work with them. A motocross rider I know used this oil and his engine failed several times during the season. After switching to another brand, the situation with the engine returned to normal and serious breakdowns disappeared.

Single-barreled gun requires good oil

Single-cylinder engines of enduro and even more so cross-country motorcycles are demanding on the quality of oils. One of the most important parameters that should be monitored when operating a motorcycle is the oil temperature, but alas, as a rule, there are no oil temperature sensors on motorcycles.

Liqui Moly oil is a good alternative to Motul oils

Air-cooled engines are more susceptible to oil overheating, which is why Honda XR engines begin to smoke. Overheated oil loses its properties, cokes the oil scraper rings and oil waste appears, and the lack of proper lubrication finally kills the engine, the owner ends up with major repairs and a lot of money. Off-road driving also has a negative impact when speeds are low and dirt covers the engine and it stops cooling properly.

Water-cooled engines handle oil temperature much better, but be careful because coolant temperature is not the same as oil temperature! The difference can reach several degrees, which can be critical for lubricating properties.

Chain lubrication/cleaning

Chain lubrication

All owners manuals suggest cleaning the chain only with kerosene .

SAE 30~50W motor oil or a special lubricant for chains with rings. seals (O-rings). In the newest owners manual for the '06 American, it is strictly forbidden to pour engine oil on the chain to avoid damaging the o-rings.

Lubricating brake/clutch levers, footrests, brake/gearbox pads

Litol/analogs for wheels and suspension

Lithium -soap-based grease - “Litol-24” in Russian, or foreign greases such as Castrol LMX, Liqui Moly LM 50 Litho HT, MOBIL Mobilgrease XHP 222, Shell Gadus S3 V220 C2, etc.

Suspension lubrication

Molybdenum disulfide grease

In old manuals (not only for our bikes), Yamaha suggests lubricating the progression with Molibdenum disulfide grease (in the original Yamalube Molybdenum Disulfide Grease, analogue of LM 47 Langzeitfett + MoS2) In the latest manuals, for some reason they changed it to Lithium-soap-based grease .

What kind of oil to pour

If you are wondering what kind of oil to put in your motorcycle, the most correct answer would be advice in which you will be sent to read the manual. The documentation clearly indicates what type of oil and what viscosity, as a rule for Japanese 250s it will be motorcycle 10W-40 or so. Based on the operating conditions, if it is an enduro and you use it for traveling on hard roads and don’t get into the mud, feel free to use what the manufacturer recommends.

Motorex oils are not satisfactory, but have a high price.

If you have to get your motorcycle dirty in the mud or the weather is hot outside, or your motorcycle is prone to overheating, or you race a motard on a sports track, it makes sense to fill in an oil whose second index will be 10 higher. For example, if 10W-40 is recommended, fill in an oil with a second index of 50, such oil will perform better at higher temperatures.

But there is no need to approach this advice with fanaticism; we have experience when a low-boost Yamaha Tricker engine, which according to the manual is filled with 5w-40, was filled with sports 10W-60. Despite the high quality of the oil, it was not suitable for this engine, and by 800 km the gears were engaged with great difficulty and shocks on downshifts. After the oil with the recommended viscosity was filled in, the motorcycle’s gears began to engage smoothly and clearly, and you could safely ride until the next oil change without a recurrence of symptoms. Also, you should not use this advice if the weather is cold or winter outside; oil with a high viscosity index will not heat up to operating temperature, and cold oil is just as harmful to the engine as overheated oil.

In this question, just for the owners of Suzuki Djebel and DR250, the engine of these motorcycles has one interesting feature. As soon as the oil begins to “age” and lose its properties, problems with engaging and finding gears begin. This may be a good indicator of the need for an oil change.

With the question of the oil manufacturer, we will not give any specific advice; here everyone is free to choose what they like. The exception is the majority of KTM motorcycle owners; as a rule, they do not have this issue; they pour Motorex oil, which is factory-made, and this is correct, in our opinion.

Petrol

What kind of gasoline should I use?

The manuals only indicate the type - “exclusively unleaded fuel”. Very expensive information, considering that if you want leaded gasoline now, you won’t find it =\

Usually, with a compression ratio of up to 10.5, it is recommended to use AI-92 (the compression ratio for OE and Ride is 10.2:1). But if you drive aggressively, it’s still better to fill up with TTR 95m.

Gas tank volume

TT250R Raid:	TT250R OE (pre '99):	TTR250 (after '99):
16l (reserve 3l)	9l (reserve 2l)	10l (reserve 2l)

How often to change the oil in a motorcycle engine

Unlike road motorcycles, the use of enduro motorcycles can be very varied, so you should adhere to the recommended oil change intervals only if you ride on asphalt and hard surfaces and if the change period is more than 1000 km. If you often have to drive through difficult areas at low speeds or simply move through mud, feel free to divide the oil change interval by 2 from the recommended one, for example, if it is recommended once every 3000 km, change it once every 1500 km. We believe that the ideal option for enduro is to change the oil every 1000 km during non-tourist use of the motorcycle. For example, the replacement interval on a Yamaha WR250R is 5,000 km, but we change every 1,000 km and sincerely believe that a small premium for more frequent oil changes will delay repairs and lead to savings on more expensive engine parts.

Cleaning and impregnation of the air filter

How to wash and impregnate the air filter?
Maintenance of foam air filters
Cleaning
Not a single manual specifies a specific solvent for cleaning the air filter, only some abstract “solvent”. There are a lot of specialized “moto” products for servicing filters; some kits even come with a branded bucket for bathing foam rubber. , white spirit and have proven to be the best for cleaning oil filters .

IMPORTANT! Do not wash the foam air filter with gasoline, because there is a risk of damaging the glued seams of the air filter. And even more so, more aggressive solvents, which the foam itself can turn into glue, are not suitable.

Impregnation

In some manuals for TTP, Yamaha recommends using various motor oils (SAE 10W30/20W40 or “Air-cooled, 2-stroke engine oil”) to impregnate the air filter. The advantage of motor oil is its very good dust stopping ability, but the disadvantage is that such oil is quite fluid and after some time collects at the bottom of the filter. And the air comes through the top.

The owners manual for the '06 American directly states " oil for Yamaha air filters or other high-quality analogue." Special oils are much more sticky than regular motor oils and are often painted in bright colors so that the degree and uniformity of impregnation can be assessed by the color of the filter. There are also options for lubricants for “clean-edition” filters - in the form of sprays. These sprays contain the lubricant itself and a solvent, which, after applying the lubricant, evaporates within 15 minutes. Since this lubricant does not penetrate the entire depth of the filter, it does not retain dust as well.

Replacement frequency

Cleaning the air filter on Ride and OE - every 6,000 km (in the manual for the “American” - every 1,000 km ) or every 6 months , whichever comes first. When driving in dusty or muddy areas, the period is reduced.

Car oil for motorcycle

We hear the question: “Is it possible to put car oil into a motorcycle?” It is difficult to answer this question unambiguously. On the one hand, car oil lacks the necessary additives necessary for the operation of a motorcycle clutch. On the other hand, the composition of automobile oil is hardly different in other respects, and if the clutch does not slip, then it turns out that it can?

A rider from our team decided to help us answer this question and conducted an experiment on his Yamaha YZ250F. Now, instead of the recommended one, he fills with automotive Lukoil, which costs 2 times less. We will report additionally on the results of the experiment and the condition of his Yamaha engine.

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Review and technical characteristics of irbis ttr 250

Engine/transmission 5

Motobike 4-T Ester 10W-40

For motorcycles

Professional Engine Cleaner

Additive

Hydraulic brake system

DOT 4

For brake system

What kind of oil to fill in the Irbis TTR 250 engine

Irbis ttr 250 engine tuning

What we have in the source:

Which units require improvement:

What was purchased:

Oil for enduro and motocross motorcycles

Where did Motul come from?

Application:

DOT 4

For brake system

Doubts

Single-barreled gun requires good oil

Chain lubrication/cleaning

Lubricating brake/clutch levers, footrests, brake/gearbox pads

Suspension lubrication

What kind of oil to pour

Petrol

How often to change the oil in a motorcycle engine

Cleaning and impregnation of the air filter

Car oil for motorcycle

Join the conversation

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