Why are Chinese motorcycles dangerous?
When there is a desire to buy a motorcycle, but there are budget restrictions for the purchase, some people prefer cheap Chinese motorcycles . Let's find out what the desire to save money can turn out to be and which Chinese motorcycle is the best.
The Chinese auto industry has made progress in recent years. Some companies produce a product that is on par with Korean models. A huge number of vehicles from China upset their owners with frequent breakdowns.
What about motorcycles? After all, most of the residents of Asian countries travel on motorcycles.
Reading
At the long-standing request of one of the activists of our site, I am fulfilling my promise to write a detailed material “Buying a Used Japanese Motorcycle”
Nowadays, buying a two-wheeled friend is not so easy. Prices for a brand new Japanese car easily jump over $10,000 and, alas, are not affordable for everyone. It’s good when you have free money and you can really use it as you want. But what about that ordinary motorcyclist who loves motorcycles with all his heart, since childhood he has been spinning the java he received from his grandfather as a gift, licking it from morning to evening. Today I would like to talk about buying a used Japanese motorcycle.
My first experience in using (foreign) Japanese equipment was a small ’81 Yamaha 250cc chopper, but I don’t remember the numbers. The feeling of the first trip was amazing. I rode it in garages from corner to corner and could not help but be happy. Even then, there were thoughts of buying him, but upon learning that he had no documents and was only worth killing, he was upset, because outwardly he was quite well-groomed (despite his age), but inside it turns out he was killed. Following him, they gave him a ride on a sportbike (Yamaha FZR 250, 1988).
Now that was a different ride. An old Japanese engine with an engine of 18,000 rpm made a terrifying howl when you touched the throttle :).
After talking with the owner of these miracle motorcycles, I was unpleasantly surprised that the old Japanese one costs no less than $1800 and this is only for the 1988 year, which the manufacturers probably forgot about and spare parts for it can no longer be found.
In those days, many of the guys (pedestrians) gathered together in garages and watched this old but amazing technology, mentally dreaming of the same thing. It so happened historically that since the owner of the FZR was fluent in it, everyone as one wanted ONLY the Yamaha FZR 250 for themselves :). The point was clear as day $2000 and you’re on top, but where to get it is another question :). With an average salary of $100 a month, my head was hanging down and my hands were shaking. I want, I want, I want!
Searching the Internet for the sale of such a “horse,” I came across advertisements: selling FZR, year such and such, passed pre-sale training, washed, bathed, only from Japan. At first glance everything is beautiful, etc. It was scary to take it out of your hands, and even old men weren’t very common. People have already started looking for 400 cubes, but for us the usual worker-peasant system and 250 cubes for happiness. At that time, an office turned up that was engaged in supplying used equipment from Japan in large quantities. They also had a website in the form of a catalog. One of the guys got excited and bought a 1992 Yamaha FZR 250 from them for $2,000. The motorcycle was truly beautiful in appearance, but inside there were jokes waiting for us :). There was no sign of any pre-sale preparation. There were rags wrapped under the (leaky) seals in the fork, and there was no filter in the air tank! Can you imagine how many kilometers a person plowed on this motorcycle to his home and how much dirt the engine picked up along the way?
I’m smoothly bringing everything to the point, so to speak, based on and citing examples from life experience. So, at this time I was dreaming of a Kawasaki ZXR 400 :).
After spending hours looking at photos of this model from different years on the Internet, I fell more and more in love with it.
Unfortunately, I found the only advertisement for sale and even without a photo, I called the owner, the conversation went something like this:
- Hello! Selling a Kawasaki ZXR 400? - Yes! — what year is the motorcycle? And then the celebration began... - according to the documents, 1996, and WELL, SOMEWHERE 1995. - in what sense? (I asked) - actually, I’m not the owner, a friend gave it to me to sell (he answers) - what about the condition? - I sat down and went! - price? — $3500
Curiosity tore me endlessly, and the desire to see a Kawasaki in person did not allow me to sleep peacefully. Having filled the gazelle with a full tank and seated a friend next to us, we rushed almost 400 km to look at the gazelle, having previously taken with us a deposit of $100, in case it stuck in our souls.
On the way to the seller, we dreamed that in a few hours we would see this handsome guy in all his glory, imagining how green he was and with white stripes. Finally, having reached the place, we met with the seller and he took us to the garage. A black motorcycle appeared in front of us with Kawasaki written on the side and the letters GPZ.
I asked what is this? It's like a ZXR 400, here are the documents. According to the documents, the motorcycle was indeed a ZXR, but outwardly it did not resemble it. I asked to start it and take it for a ride, I liked the motorcycle, but something was bothering me. Impressed by the motorcycle, I gave a deposit of a hundred and said that we would think about it. We got into the gazelle and drove back, discussing the motorcycle along the way.
— something confuses me, it doesn’t look like the one I looked at in the pictures
Before reaching my hometown, I called the owner of the FZR and said, Val, I looked at the cava, there are GPZ signs everywhere and it looks like a ninja, is this a ZXR?
- No, what are you talking about! This is a Kawasaki GPZ 400 sports tourer, most likely (air-oil cooling) - but what is it being sold for? - $3500 - what are you talking about, his red price is $2500 and you need to look!
I promptly call the seller and say: - the motorcycle you showed is not a Kawasaki ZXR Answer: - yes? Well, maybe. I say: - how can this be! We plowed 400 km to you, gave you money and 400 km back. Answer: - these are your problems (and hung up).
A month later they managed to take the hundred from him, but the price for all this was another trip to pick her up to visit him, since he was not going to send her away, but fed her breakfast.
If you don’t want to find yourself in this kind of situation and then run after someone, I decided to write a short list of tips when buying a used Japanese motorcycle, which you may have never even seen.
Search and definition:
People usually forget about many details from this list, but in vain. This list will help you in the future avoid wasting time, and perhaps money (like me) :).
1.
Be clear about your choice. For example, you firmly decided to buy a 2001 Suzuki GSX-R600 (a friend has one). Study the motorcycle inside and out, all the bends of the plastic, the location of the bolts, stickers, the shape of the optics, the side mirrors, the exhaust, etc. You must be absolutely sure that you will recognize the motorcycle when you meet it. If you don’t have anyone to consult with, you can always ask on our website and people will not refuse to help.
2.
The place to search for advertisements is usually the Internet. Try to look for an ad where there are a lot of active people who can give their comments regarding the lot they saw. From here you can already emphasize something for yourself.
3.
First of all, ask the seller for detailed photographs of the motorcycle if its condition, in your opinion, does not correspond to the description given in the ad.
4.
Check with the seller whether the year of the motorcycle matches the year indicated in the documents and, if possible, ask for a scanned photo of the documents. A person who has nothing to fear and is interested in selling you a motorcycle will send it unconditionally!
5.
Don't forget to ask about consumables and what condition they are in (front and rear brake pads, brake hoses, brake discs, are there any glitches in the brakes, tire wear percentage). Of course, it’s worth asking about changing the oil and oil and air filters, but usually no one ever tells the truth. Don't forget to ask about the spark plugs, when were they changed? If they answer: “yes, literally yesterday” or some other nonsense, please clarify immediately (company, labeling) :). When a person changes spark plugs, he will remember it for a long time, since they are not so fast to unscrew :). Don't forget to ask about changing the brake fluid. By the way, what about the coolant and what is it? (more details in practice).
6.
Find out the mileage of the motorcycle, how many owners it has had, and what kind of treatment it has received. Wear of the chain and sprockets is a very important point that needs to be asked. Has the motorcycle been hit and, if so, what kind? Frontal - refuse immediately, if it is laid on one side, you can think further, because For a motorcycle lying on its side, this is not a problem.
7.
Find out about the tuning of the motorcycle, whether all the parts are stock and, if not, which ones were installed and for what purpose.
8.
Warn the seller that you will look into every hole in the motorcycle and whether he would be against measuring the engine compression when we meet and remove the plastic for inspection if there are doubts regarding the survivability of our device.
9.
Try to discuss all these subtleties over the phone, so that by the reaction of the person answering at the other end of the line, you can understand how dear this motorcycle is to him, whether he really is its owner, whether he answers confidently or stammers. Don’t forget to write down everything that the seller says on a pre-prepared sheet of paper with a list of questions. So that if something happens, when inspecting the motorcycle, you can remember what the owner told you and how honest he was with you.
10.
When inspecting the motorcycle, take with you a more or less understanding person in this matter. 1 head is good, but two are better!
Preparation:
Preparing for your inspection trip is equally important. Let's try to describe our actions according to points 1.
Let's agree with a friend so that he is free at this time and on this day. If he is not free, a liquor and vodka evening in a cafe will put him in a favorable position for tomorrow's examination, and in the morning will free him from traveling to work :).
2.
Since we are going to look into every hole in the motorcycle, we need to take with us a minimum set of tools that we will need in the future to service our motorcycle ourselves, which means it won’t hurt to buy them in advance:
A)
set of hexagons.
You don’t need to take a set that’s too cool, but you don’t need a cheap one either, because... Cheap kits most often damage the bolts by cutting them off from the inside. Please note that the hexagons on the other side should have balls, this will make it easy to unscrew the bolt in hard-to-reach places. B)
Take a tester with you, in case the dimensions don’t work or something else, in general it’s a necessary thing and may come in handy.
C)
Pliers and a roll of electrical tape, in case we notice something in the wiring and want to unfold it, but there is nothing to roll it up with :). Let's not forget about the screwdriver with interchangeable bits.
G)
We also remember that we were going to measure the compression in the engine, which means we prepared in advance a car compression gauge, an adapter for our spark plug and, of course, a head with a knob to unscrew the spark plugs.
This picture shows a very interesting candle and we should write a separate article about it :).
These spark plugs are installed in the Honda RVF 400. Manufacturer: NGK, marked ER9EH. Despite its size in the photo, this candle is the size of a little finger! The skirt is 8mm and the key is 13mm! (very rare and expensive candles!!) Anyone who understands this will understand me ;). I advise you to select a more expensive head for removing spark plugs with thin walls, because... a cheap one will be thick and may not fit into the engine head. The picture shows a head for 13 from FORCE; by the way, they make a pretty high-quality tool. The price of such a head is $12. Don't forget, of course, about the extension cord for the head and knob. We buy a car compression gauge and already make an adapter for it.
The adapter itself can be sharpened by any turner, having previously given him a sample of a spark plug or a parameter (you can ask for a spark plug from the same friend). The picture shows an adapter, I put a rubber ring on it, I think it’s clear for what purposes.
To compare the rarity of the spark plugs and their sizes, I’ll show you an example of an adapter for the Yamaha FZR 400, which I made in reserve.
Practice:
Finally, we clearly identified the seller and wanted to meet with him to inspect our future two-wheeled friend.
Upon meeting:
1.
We will inspect the motorcycle itself and find out that what we are looking at is really what was shown to us, we will compare the documents and the serial number so as not to waste time :).
2.
Let's inspect the front fork, the seals shouldn't leak, but why do we need a motorcycle with a leaking fork?
3.
Next, let's inspect the front optics, there are no cracks, the mirrors are in place and the turn signals are also in place - great!
4.
Let's look at the motorcycle from all sides. There are no scratches, the muffler is stock (original factory), everything is beautiful in the back and all the lighting equipment is in place.
5.
Let's visually inspect the tires and brake pads.
6.
Let's sit on the motorcycle, turn on neutral, squeeze the front brake lever and, placing our feet on the asphalt, quietly push the motorcycle forward and backward. If there is no play or slight knocking in the steering column, and this can be felt in the steering wheel, then the column is not dead and the bearings in it are alive. Well, if there is a knock, then try tightening it (you need a special key), in general, you need to look deeper.
7.
Let's check the front brake.
Let's press it lightly with one finger and move the motorcycle forward - it stands rooted to the spot. Great! The brakes are fine. Let's take a quick look at the brake fluid reservoir. The liquid in it is yellowish but not black or cloudy. Look at the brake discs, both front and rear. No deep grooves, worn down by time, were found, because if the brake discs are dead, where can you look for them later? 8.
The clutch is depressed evenly without any bite, i.e. maybe a little tight, but evenly.
9.
We turn the ignition key, the dashboard lights up. Everything seems to be on fire, everything seems to be showing. They clicked the low beam, turns and emergency lights, if any. Well, a friend runs around the motorcycle from Budun, holding a bottle of beer in his hands and nods, saying, let the whole thing burn! You don’t have to check the lighting equipment - it’s up to you, but then you’ll start looking for some incomprehensible bases like H4, and then a headache will begin with resoldering the bases and other nonsense.
10.
It’s still too early to start, we’re waiting for the bike to cool down :).
11.
Let's check the circuit and its condition.
This is where I would like to pay special attention. Many people think that chain wear can be checked this way: Take the middle of the chain and swing it up or down - THIS IS WRONG! This is how you check the chain tension and not its wear. But since we decided to get our hands dirty in this place :), let’s give it a try! A stroke of 2-3 cm is normal! Now let's check the wear. We go around the back of the motorcycle and in the middle of the rear sprocket we take the chain with two fingers and pull it sharply back and forth, see fig. The chain travel (it would be preferable not to have it) :), but if it dangles, then 3-4 mm tells us that the chain is 25 percent worn.
12.
Let's remove the dipstick from the engine and check the oil level and its color. We put the oil on our finger, it’s black – it sucks, it’s time to change it. Let's smell it, it smells burnt, basically a bag of oil :).
13.
By that time the engine has cooled down and it’s time to start it. We try without the clutch, having first listened to how the starter turns, vigorously or tired. Started with half a kick, no complaints.
14.
Well, let's go for a ride 
15.
After a couple of circles, we liked it. At the start, the gear engaged harshly with a characteristic click. This is true for some motorcycle models.
16.
Let's get inside. Let's twist the seat, see what condition the battery is in and open the fuse cover. There are no melted ones in stock - this means the wiring is not shorted anywhere and this makes us happy.
17.
We measure the compression, this is where you need to be extremely careful!
A)
Disassemble the plastic so that there is free access to the boilers. Again, it's different on every bike. If it is V-shaped, then twist the seat and take out the battery.
B)
Remove the tank, remove the air filter with the plastic housing.
C)
DISCONNECT
all coils! Or they will burn to hell and God forbid a spark will jump and the motorcycle may catch fire.
D)
unscrew
ALL
spark plugs.
D)
Now, with the engine stop button turned off, turn the starter at full throttle. Those. Do not start the motorcycle, but turn it with the starter, having first screwed our adapter with a compression gauge into place of the first spark plug.
By measuring the pressure in each cylinder one by one, we will find that it is uniform everywhere and is around 10 kilograms (average value), which is very good.
18.
Since we have disassembled the plastic, let's see how things are with the liquid and whether it is in the expansion tank according to the mark on it.
19.
Well, if everything is in order, all we have to do is carefully put everything back in place, start the motorcycle, wait for it to warm up to operating temperature and wait for the thermostat to work and the cooling fan to turn on.
Happy END
UPD:
Yoshkin cat. I completely forgot about the main thing to say. Another way to determine the real year of a motorcycle is to read the numbers applied by the manufacturer to the brake hoses. I was always wary of motorcycles with reinforced hoses, they say tuning, better brakes and all that.
Chinese motorcycle factory
Chinese motorcycles, mostly of low power, are produced and sold in the Middle Kingdom There are a small number of companies that produce equipment with more powerful engines.
We will look at small-capacity economy-class equipment. The catalog of Chinese motorcycles of this class includes bikes, motorcycles, scooters, etc.
Who is there?
Chinese vehicle manufacturers rarely come up with something of their own. They follow the path of least resistance - they copy what was invented. There is no need to copy the design of motorcycles, which cannot be said about frames and engines.
Most of the engines that are used in the production of motorcycles are copies of the Honda Super Cub engine, produced back in 1958. The Chinese engines produced now are copied from this motor.
Chinese motorcycle
Small displacement engines are essentially the same Honda Super Cub, but with a small number of parts from the . They are installed in most cases on pit bikes Pitster-Pro, Mikilon, BSE, Kayo – https://klops.ru/news/2019-04-12/191780-kak-kaliningradskomu-avtovladeltsu-sovmestit-kachestvo-i-tsenu-v -voprose-zapchastey
Engines of the SV series are produced as single-cylinder (125-232 cm3) and two-cylinder (125, 250-350 cm3). Their cost is off the charts, which is why they are not so popular in Russia. Models with Regal Raptor engines and Johnny Pag choppers are of interest.
An equally popular donor for Chinese motorcycles is the Honda CG125, produced since 1976. The volume of such engines is increased by boring the cylinder. In Russia they can be found in Lifan, Patron, Stels, Irbis models. The most advanced engine is considered to be the Honda CBF125/150. The main disadvantage of such a unit is its high price.
Regarding the topic of interchangeability of Japanese engine parts with Chinese ones, it is quite difficult to be sure of anything. Some spare parts for Chinese motorcycles are suitable for Japanese ones, but not all of them: some are manufactured taking into account that the “originals” will not fit. Not many people know that even “original” parts are often different.
What are Chinese motorcycles made from?
New Chinese motorcycles have reached quite high quality. It is impossible not to touch upon the topic of significant shortcomings. The biggest problem is the metal that is used to make steering struts, frames, mounts, and shock absorbers.
It is of low quality, so it breaks under significant loads, and any parts break. It is worth noting that this shortcoming also occurs in the best Chinese motorcycles.
Chinese motorcycle dump
Due to the low quality of the metal, it is impossible to count on the rigidity of the chassis and the stability of the vehicle in motion. The motorcycle often turns in the wrong direction.
The brakes are subject to a lot of stress and literally get hot after a charging descent or taking a sharp turn. What is it worth to overcome dangerous jumps - often the driver lands on broken footrests.
Another very common problem with new Chinese motorcycles is the build quality, which is not carried out as required. And if the purchased equipment lasts a long time, it will be a real miracle.
Each owner of such a unit after purchase should check his vehicle and properly tighten the fasteners. Ideally, it is better to completely overhaul the motorcycle - it is possible that they simply forgot to install an important part in some place.
Choosing a motorcycle type
First of all, you need to decide in what conditions the motorcycle will be used. This will determine the most suitable variety.
The classification of motorcycles is broader than that given below. We will consider only those categories among which it is advisable to make a choice depending on the intended purpose.
City driving. Classic
An ideal option for city trips are classic and neoclassical motorcycles. This variety is the most common on sale and has a relatively low cost.
Neoclassics are motorcycles with the same classic structure, but with a modern design. Functionally, there is no fundamental difference between these two subspecies.
Classic motorcycle configuration (pictured: Honda CB1100)
Long trips. Tourer
For those who like to travel on a motorcycle from city to city, a tourer-type model is suitable. This variety is distinguished by a spacious trunk in which you can keep the things you need for a trip, and a comfortable seat in which it is convenient to sit for a long time.
Pay attention to the comfortable seat and spacious case of the tourer (pictured: Yamaha V Star 950 Tourer)
Speed driving. Sportbike
Sports motorcycles are distinguished by several key features:
- low driver position,
- high maximum speed,
- short passes.
An ideal option for those who want to “drive a motorcycle.” It’s not very comfortable for long trips due to the specific seating position that relies on your hands, which makes you tired after an hour of driving (or even earlier).
Sportbike with a predatory face – Kawasaki Ninja ZX-6R 636
Motorcycle trips. Enduro
Enduro-type motorcycles allow you to turn off the road into the forest or mountains without fear for the condition of the “iron horse”. This is especially valuable considering that almost the entire road system in Russia creates conditions more suitable for SUVs than for conventional vehicles.
Enduros are ideal for motorcycle trekking and cross-country riding.
The specific shape of enduro motorcycles cannot be confused with anything (pictured is a Yamaha WR250)
Once again, clearly:
What should I do?
It is quite logical that if they want to buy a motorcycle, but do not have a lot of money, buyers are ready to turn a blind eye to all the shortcomings. But, as they say, forewarned is forearmed.
Riding enduro-class equipment, pit bikes, and sport bikes is considered very dangerous. These motorcycles are light in weight, yet have powerful motors that must be built into a durable chassis, not into whatever they are installed into. This vehicle can reach speeds of up to 100 km/h or more, but it is not ready to provide the necessary strength, reliability and rigidity.
The conclusion suggests itself: such vehicles can be used by motorcyclists with extensive experience who know how to behave correctly in a life-threatening situation.
Selecting the number of cubes
The next step is to decide on the required number of cubes. You should rely on the following criteria:
- The golden rule of a motorcyclist is to take a motorcycle that you can lift. Weight is directly related to cubic capacity. For example, to service 120-130 kg you need a 250 cc engine, for 160-180 kg - 400-600 cc, for 200-210 - 750 cc, etc.
- The number of cubes directly affects the cost of the motorcycle, so budget is one of the determining factors.
- More experience is required to operate a powerful model. Therefore, beginners take motorcycles with a 250 cc engine. For those who are confident in their abilities, you can take it “for growth.”
- If you have previously only had experience riding Russian motorcycles, when calculating the required cubic capacity, keep in mind that the same cubes of the “Japanese” will be more powerful.
What in practice?
The catalog of Chinese motorcycles is replete with its diversity. At the same time, cheap models are in great demand on the market. They are very often bought by young people who have just received their “licenses”. At the same time, beginners do not take into account an important nuance: riding in the countryside in the summer is one thing, but going out onto a highway with busy traffic is something completely different.
Buying a scooter: new Chinese or used Japanese
Buying a scooter is not a simple matter, because now on the motorcycle market there are more new and used scooters from different countries of manufacture, which, on the one hand, expands the possibilities of choice, and on the other, leads the buyer to confusion. The bulk of new scooters and motorcycles are produced in China, with the exception of Italian, Japanese and other models. Among used equipment, scooters from Japan are considered the most common and popular; they often have the same cost as new Chinese ones. Japanese scooters have a very good reputation for being reliable and fast. New Japanese scooters are in little demand due to their high cost. But such modern models as Honda, Yamaha, Suzuki provide their owners with increased comfort, efficiency, good dynamics and reliability. If we talk about Italian and other models, they also have very good characteristics, but the disadvantages include rarity, high cost and problematic repairs. Before making a choice, you need to decide on the basic criteria for a scooter and your financial capabilities. Having a specific amount of money, you need to decide what exactly you want to buy a new Chinese or used Japanese scooter. Their cost can be almost the same. There are many opinions and disagreements on this matter. Fans of Japanese technology do not recognize anything other than scooters of this production, while the other category prefers to buy cheap, beautiful, functional and, in their opinion, of sufficient quality, China. If we think objectively, then for people who understand the structure of motorcycles and can carry out simple repairs on their own, the best option would be to purchase a good, used Honda, Yamaha or Suzuki scooter. On the Russian market you can find a wide range of models from each of these manufacturers that can satisfy any customer needs. It is very important to understand that used scooters without mileage in Russia and with mileage are very different and have different prices. As a rule, the first ones are sold at a higher price, but are in much better technical and visual condition, in comparison with those that have traveled a fair amount on our not very high-quality roads. New Chinese scooters are more suitable for those people who do not understand their equipment at all and are far from any repairs. For such people, it is important to buy a new thing and use it to the last, without any repair work. Modern models made in the Middle Kingdom have very good technical characteristics and reliability. To summarize, we can say with confidence that the choice of one model or another is a purely individual matter. New and used scooters from different manufacturers have both positive and negative aspects that appear in certain conditions.
conclusions
Of course, it is better to refuse such a purchase for safety reasons. But if you still decide to become the owner of such a vehicle, take a few tips from experts and you will find out which Chinese motorcycle is better not to buy:
1. Buy a model that has been sold in our country for at least 5 years.
2. Give preference to classic models.
3. Do not buy sportbikes, even though there such Chinese motorcycles on sale .
4. It is better for beginners not to purchase such transport at all. The ideal option is scooters—fifty dollars.
5. The best Chinese motorcycles cannot cost less than 80 thousand rubles.
6. Prepare for the fact that the equipment will have to be repaired frequently and you will have to spend money on spare parts for Chinese motorcycles.
7. Do not purchase such a unit with your last savings. You will have to additionally buy a helmet, undergo maintenance and obtain insurance. And this is not to mention the fact that vehicles need to be repaired periodically.
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Is it worth buying a cheap used Japanese scooter?
Many people ask the question: what is better to buy - a used “Japanese”, a used “Chinese”, or take a new Chinese one from the store and not worry about your brains? Or you can buy a new “Chinese” and drive it home the next day with a jammed engine.
The question of price is not a simple question (C). A toad can crush anyone, and at the sight of the once promising inscription on the side of the Honda, the toad will allow you to practice a little self-deception, the scales of doubt will swing a little in your favor and the deal with the cunning seller of bullshit will be completed.
One of my clients decided to buy himself a cheaper scooter. The choice naturally fell on the “Japanese” and naturally on the used one. Well, why pay a lot?.. This is “Japanese”, it is “a priori eternal”. Their happiness did not last long... The kickstarter leg jammed. And immediately the snot started flying: how so??? These are “Japanese” after all, the seller said that by definition they do not break, and if something breaks on them, then only a candle or light bulb burns out...
In general, I got into this “Japanese” and, frankly speaking, did not want to repair it. What's the point?.. The engine was simply killed, and completely... The client thought that his winding lever was simply bitten, but in fact his separator in the upper head of the connecting rod had crumbled and that was not all...
Instead of a filter, a piece of foam rubber stuck out in the housing and it was torn out from some old mattress, not its original one. But that's half the trouble. The main problem was that the foam rubber in the housing was loose and in the place where it adjoined the housing there was a hole through which dust was sucked into the engine.
If you buy a used scooter or motorcycle, immediately open the air filter. If you find something similar there or there is no filter at all, discard this option immediately. If you see a clean filter element impregnated with a special liquid in the housing, rejoice: it is quite possible that you did not waste your time in vain and this option will pass the next stages of testing no less worthy than this one.
The Kickstarter “fungus” was killed: the original teeth were worn out and instead of them, some smart guy cut his own with a “grinder” - a la exclusive...
You will say that this is a trifle. A small thing is not a small thing, but it costs 300 rubles, plus these exclusive teeth cut off the counter teeth in the outer plate of the variator, and that’s another plus 200 rubles.
Due to a crumbling separator, the piston is in the trash... Plus another 1,500 rubles.
The separator rollers got into the crank chamber and jammed the crankshaft, and the crank lever jammed along with it.
The main bearings were still original. The radial play of the inner race, according to my conservative estimates, was at least 0.5 mm. In my understanding, they are more dead than alive... Their analogues of unknown quality cost from five hundred rubles and then to order.
It is not surprising that with such backlash in the main bearings, the oil seals leaked. Oil seals for this scooter are sold only individually - 150 rubles for one.
The splines for the variator plate were cut off on the crankshaft, plus the shaft was no longer original and had been cut with a grinder. Chinese plasticine for this model costs from 1,500 rubles.
Remains of the separator. Plus another 150 rubles.
Strong play on the primary and secondary shafts of the gearbox. Luckily, only the bearings and seals were damaged. I don’t remember how much it all cost, but I ended up with a ruble. By the way, we managed to find the bearings in a regular store selling spare parts for tractors. There are a sea of bearings there.
Instead of oil, there was some kind of manure in the gearbox. It's good that it was there at all.
And that's not all. I don’t think there’s much point in writing about such little things as torn silent blocks, cracks in the crankcase, or a “dead starter.” The picture with this scooter is already clear.
Remember: there are no freebies. There is no such thing as buying a normal scooter for a pack of crackers. Don’t deceive yourself and don’t trust salesmen, and then most technical problems will bypass you.
