Among the numerous Chinese bikes that have flooded the Russian market, there are especially many pit bikes and enduros, mostly small-capacity ones, like the Irbis TTR 150. However, the most popular ones are those of 125 and 250 cubic centimeters, so the hero of our today’s article stands somewhat apart. And it seems that the Chinese model turned out to be quite successful - with the weight and size characteristics of a 125 cc bike, it is noticeably more vigorous , and at the same time weighs less than a 250 cc “check”. Well, let's take a closer look at the Irbis TTR 150.
Attack of the Clones
Most budget Chinese motorcycles of the same class are similar to each other, like twin brothers, and the Irbis TTR 150 is no exception to this rule. If you remove the manufacturer's stickers from it, it will be difficult to guess the model. However, pit bikes are valued not for their appearance, but for their technical characteristics, right? In this regard, the Irbis TTR 150 stands out quite well from its competitors, this cannot be taken away from it, and there are noticeably more good reviews about it on the Internet than negative ones. And its main feature can be called an indefinite class affiliation - either a pit bike, or an enduro, just small and light .
additional characteristics
Even though the Irbis TTR 150 motorcycle was released in 2014, it is still called a new product. In some reviews on the Internet you can see that there are still certain shortcomings. The manufacturer did not design the driver's footrests. They are too fragile and have a thin base. In addition, the motorcycle is sold with a custom frame, so all attempts to increase rigidity and strength will be immediately visible. Due to the fact that there are extra parts on the frame, the motorcycle has a serious disadvantage in terms of weight. The last disadvantage that buyers note is quite minor. It consists in the fact that the headlight and the fender are connected. Because of this, after a breakdown you will have to replace two parts at once.
This model is no longer sold at official sales points. That is why you can only get it second-hand. It is inexpensive, as a rule, it can be purchased for 60 thousand rubles. It is impossible to evaluate all the advantages or disadvantages by external signs, but it must be said that this pit bike does not have any special bells and whistles. That is why it can be noted that this motorcycle is made entirely in the style of the Irbis company. All the above-described shortcomings are considered frivolous, since during a test drive they do not greatly affect the success of completing the track. This pit bike can be confidently used both for simple rides and for working on special tracks.
It should also be noted that this motorcycle does not require a driver’s license or registration. That is why it is prohibited to use it on public roads. In general, there are different impressions about this vehicle, because the earlier model of the Irbis TTR-125 pit bike is considered much more powerful and reliable. Therefore, before purchasing, you need to weigh the pros and cons, and also focus on the price-quality ratio.
Technical characteristics of TTR 150
The designers placed a 4-stroke 140 cc air-cooled engine , and even provided protection - the bottom of the Irbis TTR 150 engine is covered with a steel sheet . The gearbox is typical for pit bikes - 4 steps , and they shift all the way down , and not like on a regular motorcycle, 1-N-2-3-4-5. The engine produces 8.3 hp. and quite quickly accelerates a light motorcycle to maximum speed, however, at high speeds parasitic vibrations immediately begin. However, there is still nowhere to go so fast off-road, and the Irbis TTR 150 is not allowed on public roads, since de jure it is considered sports equipment, and not a vehicle. The gas tank contains 4.7 liters of fuel - quite enough for adrenaline-filled rides through forests and fields. The suspensions are simple, but high-quality, energy-intensive, at least if the rider’s weight does not exceed the weight of the pit bike. Disc brakes are installed on both wheels , quite simple, but quite effective. And, of course, one cannot fail to mention the ease of control - the Irbis TTR 150 steers exactly as you would expect from a motorcycle of its size and weight, that is, very well.
Due to the harsh off-road operating conditions, it is better to service a pit bike by engine hours rather than by mileage. And at the very first scheduled maintenance, a strange feature emerges - the TTR 150 engine simply does not have a replaceable oil filter. Apparently, it would have made the model incredibly expensive, and they decided to save money on it. A strange solution, although not an isolated one - the absence of a filter is often found on budget Chinese motorcycles.
Pros and cons of Irbis TTR 150
Advantages
- Affordable price . For less than 70 thousand rubles you can now buy a brand new Irbis TTR 150, the technical characteristics of which are worth that money. In addition, it will be under warranty, albeit limited due to extreme operating conditions.
- Light weight . Of course, there are lighter pit bikes, but for a 150 cc model, whose level of comfort is comparable to a light enduro, the result is still not bad.
- Surprisingly good suspensions , with a discount for the fact that they are designed for a light biker. The front fork, by the way, is of an inverted type, which is practically never found on budget motorcycles.
- Easy maintenance . You can do everything yourself in the garage, armed with an ordinary suitcase with tools.
- Cost of maintenance . The Irbis TTR 150 won’t cost a pretty penny, owner reviews confirm this. Spare parts for it are very cheap and available.
- Excellent maneuverability . It is worth saying thanks to the competent weight distribution coupled with low weight and compact dimensions.
Flaws
- Dealers mainly sell copies of the TTP 150, released several years ago. After purchase, you will need to immediately carry out full maintenance, since after such a long period of inactivity, rubber elements, wiring and everything else usually require attention.
- Lack of oil filter in the engine . Typically Chinese “saving on matches”.
- There is no subframe under the rear wing . Apparently this was a reason for tuning, but the solution is still strange.
- Judging by the reviews of the Irbis TTR 150, there are often minor assembly flaws such as not fully tightened bolts and wiring hanging from everywhere. When purchasing a used copy, these shortcomings will most likely have already been eliminated by the previous owner.
Good day. This week I added another friend to my garage! But this time there are no “automobile” engines under the ... oh, but only 125 cubes purchased for country fun (forest rides, mud mixers, etc.) for the price of a new mobile. phone. Having gathered information from various sources on modifications to this unit, I decided to put everything in one place. Maybe it will be useful to someone.) (lots of photos and videos) As is clear from the title, I purchased a brand new irbis ttr 125 13 years old without electric. starter (for me a useless thing). I spent a long time choosing, read both positive and negative reviews, and doubted the purchase. Friends were campaigning for the purchase of Kayo, but it was a little more expensive, and I set myself a bar of no more than 35 thousand for something that I might not like at all or might break (99%). Saving is her mother. After spending a couple of weeks on the forums, watching videos of the owners and learning all the sores that need to be treated immediately, I decided to take a risk and buy this Chinese miracle at the price of a Cobra exhaust on a boulevard or a new Iphone 5s (whichever is more convenient for comparison))). A couple of signatures, entering the card PIN code and a box with a construction set in the garage. Next, we purchase a set of modifications: -Air filter corrugation from gas 3110 (406 engine) -150 rubles. -VAZ 2110 long door rod corrugation (2 pieces) -50 rub. =100 rub. -VAZ 2110 door electrics corrugation straight -20 rub. -Mobil lubricant (long tube with blue jam)) - 350 rub. -Sealants: for wiring and high temperature ~500 RUR. -Sheet of paranita -100 rub. -Good black electrical tape -50 RUR. -Nanoprotech -250 rub. - Classic locker 2 pcs - 200 rub. RESULT: 1720 rub. For a set of modifications and chemistry
We go to the garage, knowingly taking with us the Father to speed up the process by half and the Wife for photography.
We rip open the box and the “metal” frame: And we take out the underbike.
To assemble a snow leopard, you must first disassemble it! We remove all the plastic, seat and fork.
Mega tank 3 liters.
A jar of dill.
And we get a unicycle!
The Chinese have problems with lubrication. The steering wheel felt like it was spinning dry, although there was a pitiful semblance of something transparent on the bearings. It's the same story with wheels. To eliminate this problem, take out a jar of mobile phone and coat (by pressing) the steering wheel and wheel bearings with a greasy layer (having previously removed the protective boot)
Close the bearing and seal it again.
And here the door rod corrugations come in handy. (this photo is not mine)
We take the axle spacer and cut it along the length + 1cm from the corrugation, cutting off the upper cap a little in advance and leaving the lower one with a larger diameter (unfortunately, there are no photos) The result is an excellent boot. We assemble the front.
The steering wheel began to turn like clockwork, which is what we wanted. It is also advisable to lubricate the cables and the throttle handle. Before connecting the “computer” and the headlight, I went over the contacts with nanoprotek (it protects against corrosion and short circuits, according to reviews on the internet it works, we’ll check it) A little later on all the electrical parts.
Don't forget to treat the zero! I used K&N lubricant.
Next we move to the back.
There are many complaints on the Internet about throwing dirt at the shock absorber and rendering it inoperable. My version (13 years old) has a mudguard, but additional protection would not hurt. The GAZ corrugation fits perfectly on the rear shock absorber. Don't forget to lubricate the chain and check its tension. Chinese tensioners are long bolts with 2 nuts, a washer and a screw and are inserted into a regular hole in the pendulum without any threads.
The rear brake machine often breaks down. It gets filled with dirt and kills the boot. As everyone probably already guessed))) we put on it the electric corrugation from the vase door)
Initially, the engines were filled with shipping oil and you can drive on it for no more than 1-2 hours, but since I squeezed out a liter of Castrol when buying it (there was no Motul), I decided to change it right away. Started it on the old one, let it run for 10 minutes, drained the old one and filled it with the new one.
By the way, I didn’t expect it to start the first time.
I forgot to mention replacing the fuel pipes and filter with a better one. The standard filter lets through and the tubes quickly burst.
Complaints are taken into account. They break at the first drop. Defense can help, or simply space them out a little further.
Pump up the wheels and you're good to go!
The sound makes me happy! The video can't handle all the juiciness. You have to listen live. I forgot to add that the mesh in the muffler was immediately torn out, which was already damaged by something from the factory.
Dad also decided to try it)))
That's all I managed to do that day. The plans are to lengthen the rear wing from VAZ lockers and make protective plastic under the tank so that dirt does not fly. It is also advisable to change the carburetor gaskets.
PS If the little one shows his good side, then a second pin will be purchased for my beloved wife)))
I hope this post helps someone! That's all I wanted to tell you. Thank you for your attention!)))
Reviews from Irbis TTR 150 owners
Normal pete, quite playful. Before him there was a Chinese 125 cc, his frame burst after jumping over a weld, and even before that his rear was shaking noticeably in corners. The snow leopard looks more reliable, behaves predictably, and skated for two seasons without any problems. I don't use it in winter. Ivan, Kolomna, Irbis TTR 150 '2016.
For the money it’s a good toy, I bought it used in the spring of 2021, but not tired, in good condition, got it for 45k everwood. After purchasing it, I changed the tires (they were still stock), serviced them, and have been skating without problems ever since. There is also a 750 Seabikha in the garage, so the TTR 150 is more for the soul, to go for a ride in the village, I also go in the winter. It gets stuck in deep snow, there is not enough power, but it pulls out easily because it is not heavy at all. It drags confidently through mud and sand. Ilya, Tyumen, Irbis TTR 150 '2014.
I actually expected more, the acceleration is good at the start, but after 40-50 km/h it starts to deflate; in order to drive, you need to turn the handle all the way. The throttle cable broke twice during the season, I installed the original one. On the plus side, there’s a ton of tuning on Aliexpress, and it costs pennies. In principle, a tolerable pit bike for its price, but the quality is typically Chinese. Sergey, Irbis TTR 150 '2015.
Review of Irbis TTR (2013)
Well, the season is over, we can sum it up.. In general, I’m indifferent to two wheels. And I want to drive along forest paths, go to some secret place, inaccessible to other transport... Plus, probably a midlife crisis?? - I’m already 35, and I still haven’t visited... Since winter I have planned several trips, regardless of transport.
That year I wanted to take a bike. But where am I on it?? I thought about motorcycles all the time, but which one? Sovmoto completely lost the desire to travel anywhere, although he was thinking about Tulitsa. Chinese alpha type moped? It’s kind of… old-timey, or what?? And will you go far on it?? In the spring I accidentally discovered a new subclass - pit bike - and caught fire! Small, light, off-road. No documents - no technical inspection and no insurance required. There is something to transport it, so the question of “how to get there” is not worth it. Moreover, it’s better to take him somewhere far away. Another feature is that they are ridden a lot by middle-aged “uncles” who have “weight” in society, and who are not poor. A toy for the “rich”?? Partly, yes... But I need one like that! I was a little intimidated by the “Chinese quality” - although they say that there are no problems with spare parts, and everything can be repaired easily. So you have a garage, tools, and hands from the right place. I started selecting a model. Irbis 125ka is the cheapest (was), the most common. But reputation-themed sites are watered by snow leopards. Causes? This is essentially a moped modeled after an enduro model. Simplified to the extreme. Naturally, he can’t stand any racing tracks or exercises. Another reason is that since it’s cheap, young people take it for a ride...
Okay, it’s clear with the snow leopard. What else do you have? Kayo. Better quality, better reviews. But due to the events at the beginning of the year, the purchase became unavailable.
At one drinking party (anniversary) on March 21, I found out that my brother was selling snow leopard 125ku!! For two seasons, we didn’t really go. The reason for the sale is the purchase of a more serious device with a PTS. It was the lack of a title that became the main problem - there was nothing to carry him, he lives far from the highways, the cops don’t know what they can do... Knowing his attitude towards technology, I immediately agreed. And it turns out that my brother is also an extreme sports enthusiast!! We agreed on some trips together. The next day I went to look. The trip ended with Pete ending up in my heel booth... My brother took him out into the street, started him and drove! A-spring-ice, ruts... I haven’t ridden a two-wheeler with a motor since 2005. My brother laughed at my attempt to travel. I mostly bought on trust and luck. So, everything seems to be fine. Pete without a starter and battery - I would like a starter... but it’s weight, extra Chinese problems. Despite its small dimensions, it did not drive into the booth; I had to lower the steering wheel. In the evening we completed the paperwork, gave the money, and it was mine!
I brought it to the garage and unloaded it. The first fall was dropped into the snow. I put it in the garage and... began to wait for the warmth.
I started to master the technique. What was amazing was that after the always greasy and dirty people, the Chinese pit was simply a model of cleanliness. There is no oil leaking anywhere, the gas tank cap is clean (whoever held it will understand), there is no characteristic smell of a Soviet motorcycle. I mastered shopping in clean clothes - not a single stain! There are still stains on my trousers from the planet. The design is not bad - disc brakes, four-stroke engine. In general, the first impression is positive. There were, of course, shortcomings. The front brake did not work - I looked into the reservoir - there was a picture “at the bottom”. I filled the brakes, bled them, and it works! The drive star is clogged with dirt - I took it apart and cleaned it. On my first trips I noticed that it didn’t work. I twisted the carb, but it didn’t matter. I watched a video about adjusting the valves, dropped everything, went to look, and indeed, the exhaust was jammed. Adjusted and the pit went! And how! Eight horses for seventy plus fifty kilos! It's bursting from under itself!
First trips.. Snow, mud. Children ask to go for a ride. I decided to “show my class” - as a result, the pit ended up under an iron structure half a meter high... I got it, not a scratch! The absence of turn signals and unnecessary parts is clearly a plus.
I drove a thousand and a half kilometers during the season. Few? So the main trips are in low gears in the mud, off-road, knee-deep in water. I am satisfied with the purchase. What was done... I changed the wheel bearings - there is no protection from dirt. After good trips, I remove the bearing boot, wash it, and refill it with grease. Thanks to these efforts, the new bearings are still alive. The pendulum bearings fell apart - the reason is the same. In addition, there are rare roller bearings that are difficult to buy. I put five 6900 - also a rarity, but they still exist. I changed the chain - the reason is the same, dirt, water. He doesn't walk for a long time. The bushings of the rear shock absorber were broken - there is an absolutely wonderful design made of horseradish iron. For me it simply rotted. I tried installing silent blocks, but they broke. I installed shs10 plain bearings, they work, there is no play at all. I constantly change the pads - they don't live in the mud. Now I glue it myself from the Kamaz clutch disc, plus on the rear caliper I added a couple of springs to the guides of the pads so that it moves further away.
Well, the main problem was that in the fall it refused to start from the kickstarter. I removed the clutch in the heat of the moment - like new! The kickstarter is normal.. It turns out that these engines have a type of decompressor. In the spring I got some spare parts from it from the timing belt. And he did not allow the exhaust valve to close! I removed the head, changed the camshaft bearing, and removed the remains of the decompressor. Started it up and it works! I tightened the spokes. The driven star has weakened; there are just four simple bolts holding it in place. I picked up the bushings for the bolt and got stuck. The clutch lever is a consumable. I changed it five times. After the Pass, I went through the clutch drive and changed the release plate - it’s an obvious mistake of the Chinese - it doesn’t really hold on, it goes a little to the side and jams. In general, after every serious trip, the first thing I do is wash the pit, then inspect, adjust, lubricate... No less time is spent on servicing the pit than on the trip! From “tuning” - I put a small box under the tool on the steering wheel, and put a mirror. I lengthened the frame and made a mount for a five-liter extreme canister.
But how many new roads I traveled, how many new places I explored! I'll tell you briefly. First of all, I scouted all the places upstream of our river. I kept dreaming of taking a ride along the old Ekaterinsky Highway - please! To the forest to pick mushrooms/berries? Easily! In July, I went to Tours for three days with my brother. The trip was memorable for mosquitoes, head-deep grass, mud... The road? 22 km by railway embankments, some asphalt, primer. The last five km took two hours! But my long-time dream of seeing the village of Chushino came true! Even though it was July, we were cold and wet. We practiced joint actions, my first time!! slept in a tent. It so happened that on trips I get to carry the most valuable things - two thermoses, a supply of water, vodka... Our pace of movement turned out to be similar - plus - we go in pairs.
In August we went to the Dyatlov Pass. This trip turned out to be decisive. I went there with the thoughts “I’ll leave and have nowhere to go.” But it turned out that there were dozens of places in the Northern Urals alone where I really wanted to go! And given the very short time period for the trip (late July-early September), we would like to travel for the rest of our lives. This trip tested our capabilities and their limits. It turns out that we didn’t know and couldn’t do anything! How to cross the ford, how to go up/down the ridge, where you can go, and where it’s better not to go.. We didn’t even think about the traction stars! The limit for pita on such trips is three hundred kilometers. It is difficult to take everything you need for more. Five liters of gasoline in the back, one and a half liters in the steering wheel, and half a liter at the very end (burn “this trough”) - that’s all the gasoline. Plus there is five in the tank, although not a little, considering the consumption of three and a half, despite even difficult conditions. And the pit is not designed for such trips at all - the driver’s specific seating position does not allow you to drive long and far.. The limit on fords is if the current is maximum at carb level - otherwise it’s impossible even for two people to roll - it floats away. In still water, you can handle it up to the rudder if you plug all the holes and use two people. At the pass I added a unique “tuning” - the fact is that a hose is inserted into the gas tank cap, and there should be a valve at the end. I don't have the valve. The hose is also lost. Having filled the tank to the brim, I was surprised - gasoline got onto my eggs. Then, without thinking twice, I inserted the first branch I found into the hole! Which, of course, broke down after a couple of kilometers... So I still drive with this design - there is enough air, gasoline does not splash, only when the tank is full, gasoline barely gets into the recess under the hose. At the Pass I fell in love with the swamp boots and the Alaskan jacket.
And how many more one-day and two-day trips there were! To the mountains and rivers, along dismantled narrow-gauge railways and fields/forests. So, that weekend we went from an overnight stay to a remote river for fishing.. It doesn’t matter that it’s zero outside, there’s up to five centimeters of snow in places.. I put on a sweatshirt over my jacket. Over your Alaskan jacket. Swampers with a warm stocking. I did a stoppie somersault over the handlebars there for the first time.
Plans for the winter are to alter the saddle (you ride with eggs on the tank), and put the rear spring a little weaker. I’ve already ordered the bike computer, but I don’t have any equipment, but at least I’ll know the distance. Well, the new sprockets and chain are gone. Well, I had to change the timing cover - it cracked after the Pass.
Overall satisfied with the purchase. They predicted that it would fall apart, but it didn’t! Yesterday I drove through fresh snowdrifts. Of course, the main disadvantage is no protection from dirt and water. And some of the decisions of the Chinese are questionable, although... what more could you want for this money? But there are also advantages - for example, the chain with a roller and a successful limiter has never fallen off - just like we suffered with our brother’s racer! Is the metal weak? Weak.. When I installed the bearings in the rear shock absorber, I was amazed - the Soviet file immediately clogged, and the reamer removed the layers like fish scales. But how does this manifest itself? Ah...no way. Except that on the last trip the spokes became loose and the clutch levers break when dropped. 125 cubic meters is enough for the forest. This engine is ideal for off-road use. Rushing from the bottom, not explosive. It’s better not to drive it on the highway - it’s a tractor. The hum from the toothy rubber is light and blows with the wind. Vibration, noise.. And driving around the garage or gardens is generally an ideal option - that’s what it’s designed for.
I don’t see any competitors yet, and there’s no point in changing the pit for something. I look at the “Japanese top three” enduro leaders - excellent equipment, yes. But why do I need it? The main advantage of a pita, two or three of us can actually get everywhere, and even if we drown it in a swamp, we can get it out and use it further. Before the crisis, the complete power unit cost twelve thousand!! Twelve!! How much does it cost to drown a Japanese? But I won’t even compare it with Sovmoto - the technology and purpose are completely different. Soviet equipment is designed for drunken machine operators jumping through fields with potatoes and doing repairs in the field. Hence the extra weight, abundance of metal, complicated (sometimes overly) design.
Total
It can be argued that compared to other “Chinese” vehicles, the Irbis TTR 150 pit bike is no different in any way when comparing models of the same price segment and similar cubic capacity. There are more technically advanced bikes, but they cost one and a half to two times more . But the TTR 150 is comparable in price to its 125 cc counterparts, while it surpasses them in dynamics, and spare parts for it are sold almost by weight. So for a beginning off-road conqueror, this model is quite suitable, given its flexibility and ease of control.
Specifications
Maximum engine power: | 9.25 HP |
Working volume: | 140 cm3 |
Motor type (cylinder arrangement, number of strokes): | 150 cc 4t |
Number of cylinders: | 1 |
Number of valves: | |
Intake type (Injector / Carburetor): | |
Bore and stroke: | |
Starting system (Electric starter, kick starter): | |
Maximum speed in km/h: | 80 km/h |
Cooling system: | Air, additional oil |
Transmission (gearbox): | 4-speed, manual |
Clutch (Dry / Wet): | |
Drive unit: | Chain |
Frame: | Spatial, tubular, steel |
Chassis | |
Suspension (front/rear travel): | |
Brakes (Front/Rear): | |
Wheels / Tires / Rubber: | |
Dimensions and weight | |
Dimensions (Length / Width): | |
Seat height: | |
Ground clearance: | |
Curb weight: | |
Weight: | 87 kg |
Fuel tank capacity: | 4.3 l. |
Battery capacity: | |
Year of release: | |
Country of Origin: |