Switch Suzuki Lets 2

A huge number of 4t scooters are offered in Russia. Low-quality switches are installed in budget-class models, which tend to burn out under the influence of increased load or moisture. This issue may also affect owners of more expensive equipment, because with the help of switches, manufacturers limit the maximum speed of movement. Before performing any work, you should carefully familiarize yourself with the electronic features of your vehicle. This will save a lot of money on contacting specialized professionals and will make the procedure as fast and comfortable as possible.

Review of the Suzuki Lets 2 scooter, characteristics and photos

History of the Suzuki lets scooter

Let's I

Let's II

Actually, the changes affected his appearance. While the rear remains visually the same, the front has been redesigned. So the headlight was moved to the steering wheel. The manufacturer has made some unification with parts from the Suzuki Sepia (AF50N), thereby reducing development and production costs. This determined the final price of the Suziki Let's II scooter. It is worth noting that Suzuki tried to make it as affordable as possible, reducing the price from 144,000 yen to 99,800 yen compared to its predecessor. While other 50cc scooter manufacturers set the price range for their products around 150,000 yen. As for the functionality of the new generation scooter, the manufacturer has made a spacious underseat trunk that can easily accommodate a motorcycle helmet.

Let's II New

1. Redesigned. The new scooter has been given a facelift with a deep overhaul of the front end. In addition, the optics have been updated. The manufacturer has changed the design and efficiency of the headlight. Also, the orange turn signal lenses were made in a transparent version with amber caps.

2. Considerable attention was paid to safety. First of all, this concerns the new high-power halogen lamp (40W) for the headlights. The design of the dashboard has also been changed. In the new scooter it was made in white and in a more readable form. This facilitates quick perception and clear readings, which is important while driving. Another important point was the update of the ignition switch with a steering wheel and lock cylinder locking system, which provides increased protection of the vehicle against theft.

3. Additional equipment in modification with a combined brake system. The center stand can be locked when parked at the touch of a button. The engine starting system in the parking lot has been changed. Now there is no need to remove the step to start the engine. This also allows you to start moving faster and more conveniently when stopping frequently and placing the scooter on the side stand. The large capacity (20L) underseat luggage rack is equipped with a lampshade for use in the dark.

Main features of the Suzuki ZZ scooter: - Uprated A155 engine with a power of 7.2 hp (5.3 kW), which elevated it to the Olympus in comparison with its arch-rival Honda Dio ZX. What can I say, if its power can be compared with engines of scooters of the 125 cm*3 class - Six-spoke 12-inch alloy wheels. The front and rear tires were different widths. — The front wheel fork was made of anodized aluminum and plated in gold. Taking into account the fashion trends of that time, you can also see a front disc brake here.

Good day to all. In this post I would like to talk about my experience in repairing a 1200 bandit switch. In advance, I will ask all sensitive individuals who accept “only the original and nothing else!!!11” to move away from the screens. I'll probably start from the very beginning. I decided to change two old coils on my bandit and replace them with one from VAZ in order to get a more powerful spark and make it easier to access the valve cover. I took it apart, installed it and everything worked. But, as they say, the music didn’t play for long, the guy didn’t dance for long, the motorcycle didn’t work for long. After 5 minutes the tachometer turned off and 2 cylinders disappeared. My further attempts to revive it by reinstalling the wires, replacing the coils with old ones, cleaning the contacts, studying the spark plugs and a bunch of checks were unsuccessful. Only 2 cylinders were working. All I found out was that although there was voltage on the coil, it did not produce a spark. I poked some more wires and went home sad. As a result, after studying the Internet, I came to the conclusion that something happened to the switch. This did not bring me any joy. My search for the damaged part on the Internet was disappointing due to either the lack of the switch model I needed or the overpriced one. It was decided to try to do everything myself, and if it didn’t work out, then break the piggy bank and, with a sad face, take the money to the good guy from a dismantling shop or eBay. Armed with the World Wide Web and my knowledge of electronics, I began to dissect the patient. First, it was necessary to disassemble the non-separable (sic!) plastic case. Yes, they will have to sacrifice. To do this, I used a utility knife, making cuts in the plastic and deepening them. I recommend making cuts more often to make it easier to break off the plastic from the internal sealant. And don’t break it in large pieces, otherwise you risk tearing off too much and ruining everything. Then I saw a wonderful picture of a board filled with silicone or sealant. The great Internet advised me to pick it out with a screwdriver and solvent. I’ll add that I achieved the best results using a container of acetone, in which I left the board overnight, and a toothbrush with a screwdriver. The operation to partially clear the board took almost a week. The main thing is to be extremely careful and do not rip the elements off the board, as I did) In the end, I tore off one SMD capacitor and an incomprehensible thing, which, after using Google, turned out to be some kind of strange quartz resonator (marked in red) with three terminals. The transistor track has peeled off a little, but that's not a big deal. Having gone to Google, I found out that the Darlington transistors marked in blue (mn638sa) are responsible for the spark. Checking them with a tester showed that I apparently did something wrong when checking, so I was simply satisfied with the fact that the same positions of the probes show different values ​​on them) They are checked in the same way as bipolar transistors. But thanks to phaserclub, I found an old post there and analogues of these transistors. bu941 and IRGS14C40LPBF are suitable. I purchased bu941, simultaneously torturing the sellers in one well-known and expensive radio parts store. After 10 minutes, the most experienced friend told me what the mysterious letters and numbers on the quartz resonator (8000 MHz) meant and told me where to look for it. Naturally he was not there. But it’s okay, I went to a cheaper radio parts store near my home and bought a three-terminal SMD quartz resonator that matched the parameters. So, apparently I had no reason to worry, although of course it would have been better not to break it) It’s time for soldering. You will need a small soldering iron, MGTF wire (I took 0.75mm) and all sorts of fluxes with tin, as well as tweezers and heat shrink with thermal paste. I also had old radiators from some kind of board. The quartz resonator was attached to the board with glue and, due to the impossibility of removing the old case (I honestly tried), it was decided to connect its leads to the old ones by using copper strands from the wire. The SMD capacitor was installed in its rightful place and the time had come for transistors. They are located on a small substrate, which acts as a small radiator. Having soldered them out, I installed a temporary installation of freshly purchased beauties in their place and quickly ran to the garage. The motorcycle refused to start for a long time due to fouled spark plugs, but after installing the tap on forced feed and 5 minutes of swearing, it finally started and started on all 4 cylinders! My happiness knew no bounds. By this point, I had already spent about 2 weeks searching for a solution, and you yourself understand perfectly well how I feel at the end of the season. Next, a march to the house and an attempt to improve everything. I soldered the mgtf wires to the terminals and put the ends in heat shrink. A glue gun was used to fill the board with hot glue, since I did not want to use epoxy or sealant. God bless the creator of this device) The board was “carefully” filled, especially the quartz resonator, capacitor and places where the transistors were soldered. I didn’t skimp on the glue, since so that the elements do not spontaneously dismantle from the board during the trip, they must be securely fixed + a lightweight board resonates more when the engine is running, as I understood from the description of one of the reasons for using such an amount of silicone mass in the production of the switch. Two radiators found in the box were connected together and stuck (surprise) with hot glue to the remaining part of the case, which was also glued to the board. Next, the radiators were coated with a small amount of thermal paste and transistors were screwed to them. In order to test this design, all this horror was wrapped in cling film, tape and electrical tape in order to weigh it down and protect it from moisture and vibrations. This beauty was crucified under the saddle using zip ties so as not to touch the body of the motorcycle. While I test my creation and think through housing options, everything will remain as is. Yesterday I drove around the area, and then got bolder in a circle on the third transport, a total of about 100 km. Everything worked like clockwork. So I’ll drive around like this for another week and think about the body, although they say there is nothing more permanent than temporary) Summing up, I can say that I spent about 2 weeks solving this problem, spent about 400 rubles purely on spare parts + acetone. Of course, it is necessary to modify the case a little and give the board additional resistance to shaking and vibration, but I think that’s all after the end of the season. It remains a mystery to me why the switch suddenly died, apparently it shorted somewhere to ground or the old transistor died due to replacing the coil. But apparently this will remain a mystery to me. I'll ride with the old coils for now. I think that's all I wanted to tell you. If you have any questions, I will be happy to answer them in the comments. Smooth roads, good health and fewer breakdowns to everyone!

Suzuki lets 2 engine tuning

The Michio Suzuki company was founded in 1909. The first to be built was a small factory that produced textile machines; it was located near the village of Hamamatsu. In 1920, the young company changed its name and became Suzuki Loom Manufacturing Co., and Suzuki himself assumed the presidency of the company.

The company's success was obvious; the state granted the company an award for high-performance product samples. The first Suzuki motorcycle was released in 1952. It was called Power Free and had an original design, namely, there were two pedals with which the motorcyclist could help his iron horse. The development of this model was so successful that the state allocated funds for their continuation.

Over the course of several years, motorcycles were released that became incredibly popular in just a few years. In 1953, a model was released with a two-stroke engine and a volume of 60 cubic meters. see. It was this motorcycle that helped win the race and win the Mount Fuji Hill Climb tournament. In 1954, the company produced 6,000 motorcycles.

By 1980, the Suzuki name would have a strong presence in the market and would produce motorcycles sold all over the world. Today, an incredibly popular motorcycle is the Suzuki Lets 2 scooter.

, which has several varieties and a reasonable price for the buyer.

The main differences between switches

It also happens that food does not appear. In this case, you need to select the AC test mode, selecting a range of 200 volts. Crank the power unit using the starter. In the case of AC type switches, power will appear immediately.

Why is it important to determine the switch type?

Some owners of scooters (in particular, those from Yamaha) often face the problem of correct identification. There are practically no official manuals, so owners have to work blindly and trust in luck. Buying a switch that is not designed to be used on a scooter can have serious consequences. The first of these is the immediate failure of the part being replaced. There is no difference in what kind of switches are installed - DC on a scooter that only supports AC, and vice versa. The electronic filling will burn out instantly. In some cases, there was a failure of a number of other related electronic elements - light bulbs, mini-radio tape recorders, alarms, and so on. Without knowing which switch is installed on the scooter, owners are guaranteed to lose good money.

Before connecting a new switch to a scooter, it would be a good idea to first read the official manuals. In some cases, manufacturers provide information about installed switches on four-stroke scooters.

You can make the connection according to a special scheme, or you can do the work yourself, having previously photographed all the connector connection points. Attentiveness and slowness are the main factors determining the success of the work performed.

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