This review will focus on the Suzuki Address V50G scooter, produced from 2005 to 2012. Suzuki was one of the first to announce the creation of a line of vehicles with injection four-stroke engines, creating the competing “Let's” and “Address” lines. Suzuki Address V50G has earned popularity among city residents due to its economical engine, compactness and comfortable seating position. The model performs well on smooth and clean asphalt and maintains high speeds well thanks to a 4-stroke engine with an aluminum cylinder coating.
Appearance
Suzuki Address V50G has rounded body lines and a low urban profile. Unlike one of its competitors, Suzuki Let's 5, Address was not assembled in Chinese factories, so the quality of the plastic is high, it is mounted on metal fasteners. The entire structure is supported by a lightweight CA44 steel frame.
Scooter Suzuki Address V50G, frame number CA44A
In the front part, next to the mirrors, there is a solid trapezoidal headlight, next to it there are two turn signals. From the profile of the scooter you can understand that it can easily withstand riding with a passenger; the seat is extended. The wheels are three-spoke. At the rear there is a traditional trunk and a convex headlight with pointed edges.
Dimensions of Suzuki Address V50, (L x W x H) – 1670 x 605 x 1005 mm.
Healthy! In front of the driver there is a glove compartment where a bottle of water, documents and other useful things can fit.
Parameters of the scooter Address V50G
The Address V50G model has the following overall dimensions: 1670 mm (length), 605 mm (width), 1005 mm (height). Ground clearance – 105 mm, weight – 66 kg.
Technical specifications Suzuki Address V50G
The maximum speed that this model can reach is 60 km/h. The front wheel size is 80/90-10, the rear wheel is 80/90-10. The volume of the fuel tank is 4.5 liters, the volume of the oil tank is 0.8 liters.
Under the seat of the Suzuki Address V50G there is a spacious glove compartment for a helmet and hand luggage, as well as a plastic gas tank with a capacity of 4.5 liters.
Engine A404
The engine brand is A404, the maximum speed that this model can reach is 60 km/h. Piston stroke – 41.8 mm, diameter – 39 mm, torque – 4.5 N*m at 6500 rpm. Compression ratio – 10.7.
The Suzuki Address V50G is equipped with a four-stroke air-cooled A404 engine, its volume is also 50 cm3. Maximum power – 5.2 hp. at 8500 rpm.
Transmission and chassis
Transmission – automatic V-belt variator. Telescopic suspension at the front and a reinforced swingarm at the rear. The brake system is designed somewhat strangely; Even though the scooter has been made for the city, it gets drum brakes on both sides.
The Suzuki Address V50 is equipped with a 4-stroke 5.2 l/s engine of the A404 brand. Front suspension – telescopic fork; rear – pendulum.
Fuel consumption Suzuki Address V50G
The manufacturer claims that the Suzuki Address is extremely economical and consumes about 1.25 liters per 100 km, significantly ahead of competitors in this indicator, especially if you take into account the 4.5 liter gas tank.
Important! With a mixed driving cycle, the scooter will consume up to 1.5 liters per 100 km.
- Engine – A404, 4-stroke, 1-cylinder;
- Power unit volume – 49.9 cm3;
- Cylinder diameter – 41.8 mm;
- Piston stroke – 39.0 mm;
- Compression ratio – 10.7;
- Fuel system – electronic injector;
- Engine power, (hp / rpm) – 5.2 /8500;
- Torque, (H*m/rpm) – 4.5 /6500;
- Cooling – air;
- Average fuel consumption – 1.25 liters/100 km;
- Maximum speed – 60 km/h;
- Gas tank volume – 4.5 liters;
- Oil tank – 0.8 liters;
- Front brake type – drum;
- Rear brake type: drum;
- Tire size (front/rear) – 80/90-10 35J;
- Front suspension – telescopic fork;
- Rear suspension – pendulum;
- Scooter frame – steel profile;
- Gearbox – variator (V-belt);
- Start type – kickstarter/electric starter;
- Scooter dimensions, (L x W x H) – 1670 x 605 x 1005 mm;
- Seat height – 700 mm;
- Wheelbase – 1150 mm;
- Ground clearance – 105 mm;
- Scooter weight – 66 kg.
Brake type Suzuki Address V50G, (front/rear) – drum. Tire size – 80/90-10 35J.
Suzuki Address 50
Today, the Suzuki Adderss scooter, popular in Russia, with a 50 cc engine, will be subjected to a thorough analysis. To make the material more interesting, we specifically turned to a model that has not undergone pre-sale preparation: let's see what surprises an unprepared scooter can hide.
So let's get started. Address, a fairly popular scooter in our country, is equipped with a relatively spacious seat, a strict appearance (1-8) (in principle, corresponding to the content), and an engine exactly the same as that of Sepia. Roughly speaking, Address is not very different structurally from Sepia, but at the same time Sepia is a kind of hint of a street hooligan, and Address is a decent family man, not at all conducive to thoughts of adventure.
The device that came into our hands looks great externally, i.e. a B plus: the paint is original, there are minimal abrasions on the plastic, the brake handles are intact, etc. But malicious surprises awaited us inside; we’ll tell you about them below. Yes, before I begin the execution, I can’t help but mention the “wonderful” idea of Japanese designers, embodied in the front suspension of some Honda and Suzuki models - meaning a lever fork, which competed with a telescope for quite a long time. The advantages of such a fork are limited to a large stroke with a low height of the mechanism, but it has a critical effect on controllability. A device equipped with such a fork tends to fall over at low speed when maneuvering and a decent dive when braking (a sort of “barge”); also, when such a fork is used, the base of the moped changes, because The wheel axis constantly moves relative to the longitudinal axis of the scooter, which requires the driver to pay excessive attention and concentrate on control. Of course, this is a purely subjective opinion, but the practice of world motorcycle production shows a complete rejection of damping systems of this type.
Actually, disassembling this model is an average pleasure, it’s somehow not well thought out and crooked. But let’s put aside prejudices and get started.
Let's start with the battery, simply because the trunk light, after removing the saddle, will both disturb it and interfere with your further work: on the front inner plastic there is a special cover that is locked with one self-tapping screw (9), the battery and fuse are hidden behind the hatch (10) (a spare fuse (11) is also hidden in the housing). Unscrew the terminals (12) and, unhooking the rubber band, pull out the battery.
Now let’s free the front trim from the screws (13); if you look at the wing from below, you will easily find two self-tapping screws (14) and two more on top, in plain sight (15). Now release the latches on the sides of the part and remove it (16). Let's give a little advice: to remove any plastic part, first unscrew everything that can hold it, then inspect it again from all accessible sides, it is highly advisable to understand the structure of the latches, then try to move the plastic in all directions if it is ready for removal, it must move at least a little freely in all accessible directions, otherwise, something else is holding it except the latches, and there is a chance of breaking something you need, and then lamenting over the cracks and remembering the former beauty of your pet.
Remove the steering wheel trim: a long screw under the headlight (17), a self-tapping screw under the left handle (18), two more on the back side (19) and the last ones at the top of the dashboard (20). It's time to disconnect the headlight and turn signal terminals (21).
Next is the rear plastic; this model does not have the usual “skis” covering the upper visible part of the engine. First, let’s remove the trunk; to do this, unscrew the three nuts (22-23) with a “10” tube, do not lose the washers protecting the plastic (24).
So as not to be distracted, we take out the luggage compartment upholstery, look with interest at the foam insert on the bottom (25-26) and continue: two screws on the sides (27), two self-tapping screws under the tail (28).
It is better to immediately remove the filler neck trough - free it from the fastening elements (29-30), remove both plugs and, rocking, pull the part up; only the rubber seals (31) will hold it.
And we remove the rear plastic entirely, but here you will have to spend maximum attention, the fact is that it is attached to the metal body of the “toilet bowl” with hefty rubber clamps located exactly in the middle of the sides and hooks in the front lower part. The steps are as follows: gently pull the entire side towards you, pulling out the plastic pin and rubber ring, while turning the plastic counterclockwise. We repeat on the other side. (32). Now it’s the turn of the front “skis”, we climb under the scooter and find two self-tapping screws (33) at the back, go back forward and unscrew two more (34) and simply pull off the body kit element.
We grab our favorite “10” tube and remove the cover (35). The remaining plastic: unscrew the “screws” (36) hidden on the front, climb into the battery hatch, unscrew the screw (37) and finish the torment with the plastic by torturing the last screw (38) with a screwdriver.
The time has come to deal directly with the engine and the organs that feed it. Let's start with the air filter: use a screwdriver to straighten out the fasteners (39-40), then move the rubber clamps at the top of the box towards the nose of the device, remove the cover and admire the first surprise (41) - the inside next to the foam rubber, from where air is taken directly into the carburetor, heavily splashed with oil and dirt.
Moreover, this wild mixture also contained grains of sand that were noticeable to the touch, which is generally unacceptable, because... all this flies into the cylinder and scratches the walls. Apparently, the petal valve is faulty, the purpose of which is to prevent the mixture from escaping back into the carburetor, and dirt could appear there only if the foam rubber is damaged. However, the filter (although cut from a sheet of special foam rubber) did not appear to be dangerous, which means that the repair was not carried out correctly. The mood dropped - such a healthy-looking scooter turned out to be affected by the most common disease. But that is not all.
We remove the entire filter box (42-43), it is also a continuation of the fender liner (44), which protects the carburetor from dirt, and be sure to plug the diffuser with a clean cloth.. By the way, the pipe supplying the mixture to the carburetor runs in the dirtiest place of the scooter - people fly at it all road surrogates...
Next, it’s quite easy to remove the muffler, there’s also a strange thing here: why wasn’t this thought out - you can’t remove it without removing the air filter, the top bolt (45) is covered by a box (46-47), and you can’t remove the wheel without removing the muffler.
Now, having unscrewed the two nuts from the cylinder, we separate the muffler. And here is the second surprise - in the muffler there was 150-200 grams of a mixture of combustion products diluted with gasoline, most of it ended up on the floor, but the rest was photographed (48-49)! How do you like it? And the reason is simple - the vacuum valve practically does not keep gasoline in the tank, it bypasses the power system, accumulates in the crank chamber and pours into the muffler, the capriciousness of the engine at startup became clear (to be honest, it started up two or three times - before and after disassembly), if it started, it gurgled strangely and smoked (by the way, in the materials on the topic, you have the opportunity, using the example of disassembling a Suzuki Sepia, to see what serviceable components should look like). At the same time, it is not clear why the system for draining excess gasoline in the carburetor did not work, hence the difficulty in diagnosing problems - apparently nothing is flowing or dripping. (For example, what happened to me on Leningradka - my Jog suddenly stalled at full speed, and from the puddle of gasoline under the scooter it became clear that the drain screw from the float chamber had come loose, fixing it would take five seconds, and it would take half a lifetime of nerves ).
Okay, let's get back to the scooter. Remove the wheel (50) and check the brake pads and gearbox seal (51).
This Suzuki model has an interesting design feature - the oil tank and gas tank are mounted on a common pallet, which is quite convenient. We remove the hoses going to the mentioned components: the gas hose from the harmful valve (52), the one from the carburetor (53), unscrew the valve (54) so as not to interfere, the oil hose from the oil pump and unscrew the bolts holding the pan (56-57), and We remove the whole thing (58), by the way, the gas tank is plastic.
And now we admire the gutted scooter, ready to remove the engine (59). Once again we admire the foam insert in the “toilet” - a unique contraption, probably, instead of it you can hide jewelry or an alarm unit (60).
Another trouble with the device, and a very significant one: you won’t be able to unscrew the spark plug with a regular candlestick, don’t even try (the method is described in the Moto magazine for November 2004 and in the issue of SD the year before last). But the first way that comes to mind is to roll out the engine, so that’s what we’ll do. The shock absorber can be disconnected at the top point either at the beginning or at the end, but it is still more convenient to do this right away (61). We also immediately disconnect the rear brake cable (62-63),
loop-holder together with ground wire (64), throttle cable (65-66)
and the second loop (67), disconnect all the terminals (68-69) coming from the engine from the ignition coil - also (70). I’ll say a couple more “gentle” things about the coil: it is located in a dirty, unprotected place and, if one terminal is insulated, then the second one looks at the world naked, which leads to its oxidation and loss of contact and temporary failure of the ignition system. Until you, standing on the side of the road, covered in mud, clean the ill-fated contact. The same applies to the bulk wire, but to a lesser extent (71).
Now you can remove the power unit. We fix the axle with an open-end wrench (72) and unscrew the nut (73) with a wrench and roll out the engine (74-77).
This is what the supporting structure looks like without an engine (78). It is advisable to clean the areas affected by rust and treat them with an anti-corrosion compound in advance, because there are known cases when the body rotted through. It’s time to get to the cylinder-piston group; for this you need to remove the cooling casing, which is quite simple: we can easily remove the impeller cover (79-81),
We approach from the other side and unscrew the coil and the remaining screws (82-84).
We look with interest at the beauty that has opened up to us (85) and remove the cylinder head (86-87) and look inside (88-89), in our case we found small scuffs near the exhaust window - a consequence of dirt getting in. In principle, it’s not very scary if you clean the entire mixture supply system and forget about the scratches, but this is already an unhealthy sign.
Perhaps we can remove the carburetor: the gas hose (90), two bolts securing the assembly to the inlet pipe (91) and we have it in our hands.
The carburetor turned out to be clean and did not require further operations. This is what (92-97) the carburetor and its internals should look like. The reason for the inoperability of the gasoline drainage system during overflow could not be identified.
We take the valve: first we remove the inlet pipe (98-99), and the four bolts securing it also hold the valve (100-102), indeed, the petals did not fit tightly to the body of the lean-to “house”. You can look into the crank chamber (103).
Well, finally, let’s look into the variator: unscrew all the bolts (104) in a circle and remove the cover (105), trying not to damage the gasket; if you do tear it, it’s okay - you need to remove its remains and either install a new one, or lubricate everything sealant. The “underhood” space (106-107) of the variator pleased with the integrity of the components, the cheeks of the variator had slight wear. A new belt has been discovered, you could safely drive 5-7 thousand without looking there again, if not for a super surprise - oil leaks are clearly visible at the point where the crankshaft exits the mechanisms, but there shouldn’t be any oil in the variator. All this is a consequence of wear of the left cuff (oil seal) of the crank, and this is definitely the quick death of the engine and the most expensive engine-related repair.
Result: the scooter gets a B for appearance and a B+ for technical condition. The device is sent to the repairmen's slipway to rise from the trash.
Appendix: several photos reflecting the sequence of removing the front wheel, which is not particularly difficult and does not contain surprises (108-112).
Comparison of Address V50G and Honda Dio AF 68
Scooter from Japan Honda Dio AF68 is the latest generation of the legendary Dio series. The model is also built on a light and durable frame, the beginning of the year of production is 2008. Suzuki Address V50G and Dio AF 68 are two different scooters that differ significantly in technical aspects. Both models have a fuel-injected four-stroke engine, but Dio's is slightly weaker.
On the left in the photo is the Honda Dio AF 68, on the right is the Suzuki Address V50G.
Comparing the parameters of the scooters, it becomes clear that the Dio AF 68 is slightly larger: its wheelbase is 1180 mm, length – 1720 mm, width – 630 mm, height – 1020 mm (Address, L x W x H – 1670 x 605 x 1005 mm).
The Dio's seat height is 695 mm (Address's is 700 mm), and the Dio's ground clearance is 5 mm higher - 110 mm. The total weight is 73 kg, while the Address has 66 kg.
As for the technical characteristics, the Dio does not have an automatic hazard warning light, it has different wheels - 80/100-10, as well as a different power unit.
Technical characteristics of the Honda Dio AF 68 scooter: engine brand - AF67E with a displacement of 50 cubic centimeters. Maximum engine power – 4.1 hp. at 8250 rpm (versus 5.2 hp/8500 rpm). Torque – 0.38 kg*m at 7500 rpm, compression ratio – 10.1.
On the left is a Honda Dio AF68 with a 50 cc engine of the AF67E brand, power - 4.1 l/s. On the right is Suzuki Address V50G, engine – A404, maximum power – 5.2 l/s.
The maximum speed is the same: 60 km/h, it is limited by a switch installed inside. The volume of the Honda Dio AF68 gas tank is 4.6 l, the oil tank is 0.68 l (Address tank is 4.5 l, oil tank is 0.8 l). The suspension is the same, with telescopic forks at the front and a swingarm at the rear. The brakes on the front and rear wheels are the same, as on the Address V50G - drums.
The transmission is a variator gearbox with a V-belt variator, the same type as on the Address, only a different model.
Suzuki Address 110 is an excellent mid-range scooter.
Maximum speed is about 100 km/h. A full hydraulic suspension, 12-radius wheels, and a front disc brake instill confidence in safe movement around the city and beyond. The fork clearly absorbs any bumps and potholes, the suspension has a minimal effect on handling and smoothness. The engine has good acceleration dynamics, at the same time the transmission is configured to be gentle, so the Suzuki Address 110 forgives errors in control.
The scooter takes turns very accurately and maneuvers between cars; it has a frame design that is quite progressive for scooters of this class and correct weight distribution. The seat tank is very large and illuminated. By the way, it’s very convenient when you need to find something in the trunk. The Suzuki Address 110 will be comfortable for people of any height and build; the spacious trunk will allow you to place everything you need. The only thing is that the suspension seemed quite rigidly tuned to me.
Pros:
- full-fledged two-seater moped,
- excellent suspension and handling,
- good and smooth acceleration dynamics,
- high top speed
Minuses:
- Difficulty finding some spare parts
Price Suzuki Address V50G
The price for a 50 cc Suzuki Address moped varies from 15 to 25 thousand rubles for supported options on the Russian market. Also, Suzuki Address V50G can be bought at a Japanese auction without mileage in the Russian Federation in much better condition. It will cost from 35-45 thousand rubles.
You can buy Suzuki Address V50G on the Farpost.ru website through dealer advertisements with pre-sale preparation from Japanese auctions.
