How to set timing marks on an alpha moped
Checking the timing belt by marks on the Delta EX 50 moped engine 1P39FMB (139FMB)
Comments from those interested:
Roman Khimchenko 2 weeks. reverse And if it doesn’t match WHAT to do
Vladimir Voronov 2 weeks. reverse Set it to match.
Vladimir Voronov 1 month ago This is nice. )) And of course there will be new videos, just wait a little.
Vladimir Voronov 1 month ago Yes! Another thing, don’t install two gaskets; it won’t make things any better; an increase in the combustion chamber will result in a drop in power.
Hunter38767 3 weeks reverse And if you have a 50cc head and a 72cc piston, then you need to change the head.
Hunter38767 3 weeks reverse Two gaskets are not allowed, look, the valves may be overtightened, unscrew the two caps on the head, and look at the gap, it should be 0.05 on the feeler gauge. But if they hit the piston, then there is no gap.
Sergey Vasiliev 1 month back Vadim, thank you, I read a lot of useful information, thank you, I will be glad to see new videos on alpha, I’m really looking forward to it
Arkady Novoselov 1 month back, well done, thank you for you!
How to set the timing phase and what is ignition timing
Our VKontakte group In this video I will tell you how the ignition timing differs from. A LITTLE BIG: : com/littlebigbandofficial soundcloud: soundcloud.com/littlebigrussia vk: vk.com/littlebigband twitter: twitter.com/LITTLEBIG_BAND website: thelittlebig.com Send by email Booking (Ru, USA) Booking (Europe): 33,608 815 807 Fabristi www.base-productions.com Music: Ilya Prusikin, We Love Lyrics: Ilya Prusikin, Alina Pasok, Eldar Dzharakhov LITTLE BIG production: Idea: Alina Pasok Script: Alina Pasok, Ilia Prusikin, Eldar Dzharakhov Director: Alina Pasok, Ilya Prusikin Co-director: Yuri Muzichenko Additional director: Alexander Pavlov Executive producer: Anastasia Antipova Line producer: Ekaterina Mironova Stylist and art director: Vadim Ksenodokhov Stylist assistant: Rada Sokolova Location: Dmitry Chernov Coordinator: Ivan Veselov Assistant: Eduard Gaisin, Roman Konshin, Ivan Savchenko Casting: Anastasia Antipova, Vasilisa Lubenko Actor coordinator: Vasilisa Lubenko MUAH: Masha Francisch Assistant Muah: Anna Sokolova Hairdresser: Svetlana Tilishevskaya Gaffer: Stas Gerasimov Lighting technician: Pavel Ilyuk, Igor Savchenko Editing: Alina Pasok, Ilia Prusikin Color: Dmitry Novikov VFX , CG: Maxim Semenov Sound design: Stas Kravets
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How to Tension the Timing Chain on an Alpha Moped
Photo report: how to check the drive chain of a scooter?
In life it is always like this: one wonderful thing, another bad. The same principle applies to various types of manual transmissions. Chain transmission was no exception. On the one hand, there is nothing simpler, more reliable, simpler, more compact and cheaper than a chain drive.
On the other hand, we get endless hemorrhages with chain stretching, sprocket wear, endless cleaning and lubrication, maintenance and stretching of the chain itself. But nothing can be done, the gearbox has many advantages over other types of mechanical gears, since these types of gears are used almost everywhere.
In general, now we will not talk about the chain drive as such, but about a method for diagnosing chain synchronization, which drives the scooter .
To change or not to change?
Let's say you're using most of your engine: you're replacing gaskets, crankshafts, gaskets and other things, but you're hesitant about replacing your timing chain with a new one. There is no doubt in your mind that you should replace it with a new one as soon as possible. And now I will explain why.
See for yourself: the average lifespan of a chain is approximately 18,000-20,000 km (personal experience), which is approximately the same as the average life of the engine itself. And for example, after driving 6000 km, the crankshaft jammed or the engine leaked, or something else that required complete disassembly of the engine. Naturally, you disassemble the engine, replace the crankshaft with a new one and leave the chain, which by that time has exhausted a third of your resource.
READ How to Twist Mileage on Accent
So what's going on? After 12,000 km the chain will fail and become unusable and the crankshaft and other parts will start to work and you will, if not want, have to halve the engine again through one chain. It's necessary? The chain is a consumable item. Never skimp on this!
check
Personally, I never check the time. I just throw them in the trash, no matter how wonderful they seem to me. For me it's a chain. This is a consumable item, the same as a spark plug, oil or oil seal. But if it's important to you or money is stressful, you can use your old grandfather.
Alpha tensioner repair
Tensioner repair £149.
We stretch the chain along its length, squeeze it with our fingers and try to position it in a horizontal position.
READ Replacement Timing Chain Volkswagen Jetta 1.4
To be clear, I took a new and very worn chain, connected them and checked for horizontal bending. As you can see: the new chain (above) has made a slight arc and is worn and no good, like snot, almost 90 degrees.
The worn chain was almost an inch longer than the new one.
How to replace the chain of scooters?
It's very simple, friends: remove the engine from the frame, disassemble it and replace the chain with a new one. There are no special secrets in this, and there are also no special ways to cheat fate without disassembling the engine. The chain can only be replaced by completely disassembling the engine.
The timing chain is not intended to be riveted or riveted in any way. It can be easily twisted or twisted while riveting and this is the correct way to ensure that the chain in the engine is pushed against the sprocket and luckily it can work and possibly bend the valve. And one more thing: a beginner will not be able to rivet a quality network. This work is not as simple as it might seem at first glance. So don’t suffer from debris, but disassemble the engine.
READ Replacing Timing Chain Honda Cbr 600 Rr
How to set the chain to pull?
But you won't receive or configure it, and it won't interfere with Google or Yandex searches with such queries. The chain in the scooter engine is tensioned automatically. And if it is stretched so far that it begins to fly or jump through its teeth, feel free to disassemble the engine and replace it with a new one. There are no miracles there.
Checking and adjusting the moped drive chain
The chain drive is one of the most loaded components in a moped.
If the chain is loosely tensioned, that is, it sags a lot, then at the moment of a load change, this excess supply of chain will first be selected, and then, when its free play ends, a sharp blow will occur, harmful to all elements of the transmission. And it’s unpleasant for the driver himself to drive such a moped that jerks whenever the gas is opened or closed, especially in a sluggishly creeping traffic jam. The second disadvantage of a sagging chain is that when the tension is weak, its unloaded shoulder tends to move in a straight line by inertia, which is why it rests imperfectly on the sprocket teeth, thereby wearing them and itself out. The life of the drive chain depends on lubrication and adjustment. Failure to maintain the drive chain promptly can result in premature wear or damage to the chain and sprockets. Chain maintenance work includes cleaning it from dirt, lubricating the links, or boiling it in molten lubricant. Cleaning the chain and lubricating its links can be done without removing the chain from the moped, using a brush, special liquids and lubricant in aerosol packaging.
To weld the chain, it must be removed from the moped, washed in kerosene and boiled in lubricant (the lubricant consists of 95% solid oil and 5% graphite powder) at a temperature of 70-80°C. It is recommended to carry out the first welding of the chain before use.
A routine check of the drive chain tension is carried out every 500 km.
The check includes:
- Turning off the engine, place the moped on the central support stand;
- engage neutral gear;
- remove the inspection hole cap on the chain casing;
- check the chain tension (normal sagging of the drive chain should be within 5-10 mm with a force of 10 kgf;
- Turning off the engine, place the moped on the central support stand;
- engage neutral gear;
- loosen the rear wheel axle nut;
- by tightening the adjusting nuts on the left and right sides, achieve normal chain tension;
- tighten the rear wheel axle nut;
After the adjustment is completed, you need to check if everything worked out as expected. If the wheel is level, the marks on the tensioners on the right and left show the same thing, and the chain has the desired slack, then everything is done correctly. All that remains is to lubricate the chain.
Read also: How to restore threads in an aluminum engine block
A distinctive feature of a moped from a scooter is that the former has a chain instead of a belt, so sooner or later quite typical breakdowns occur with Alpha mopeds. The chain tends to stretch over time, after which movement becomes quite problematic. You can tension the chain yourself; no special skills are required. But know that you don’t need to tighten the chain on the Alpha moped too much; the free play should be from 2 to 3 cm, otherwise you will face much bigger problems.
So, if you don’t know how to tighten the chain on an alpha moped, follow the instructions below.
First of all, remove the passenger footrest so that it does not interfere with tensioning. Then place the alpha moped on the center stand. But some experts recommend tensioning under a certain load on the moped, because on the center stand your vehicle will be supported by weight; after tensioning the chain, you will notice that it has become even more tense, like a string. This oversight leads to serious damage; many say that an overtightened chain after 1 thousand km leads to a breakdown of the entire clutch mechanism.
How to tension a chain on an Alpha moped
Next, you will have to unscrew the nuts of the central axle of the wheel, this will help loosen the wheel axle. To do this, a 14mm wrench is suitable, after that you will have to unscrew the nut located on the same axis, but then, in the case of the Alpha moped, a 24mm wrench will do. After this, we proceed to adjust the chain; on the same axis there is a chain tensioner with a nut, just enough tighten it, this will require a 10mm wrench.
You will have to tighten the nut until you feel that the chain is tensioned. In this case, the teeth should not fall on the edge of the chain, check this, and only then can you begin the final procedure - tightening the axle nuts back. Tighten these nuts well, but do not overtighten them. That's all, as you can see, tensioning the chain on an alpha moped is quite simple.
Photo report: How to check the timing chain of a scooter?
It’s always like this in life: one thing is great and the other is bad. Exactly the same principle applies to various types of mechanical transmissions. Chain transmission is no exception here. On the one hand, there is nothing simpler, more reliable, lighter, more compact and cheaper than a chain drive.
On the other hand, we get endless hassle with stretching the chain, wear of the sprockets, endless cleaning and lubrication, maintenance and tensioning of this very chain. But there is nothing to be done, the chain box has a lot of advantages over other types of mechanical transmissions, which is why these types of transmissions are used almost everywhere.
Read also: The best navigator for trucks on Android
In general, now we will not talk about the chain drive as such, but about the method of diagnosing the timing chain driving the camshaft of a scooter engine .
How to replace the timing chain in an engine
Having decided on such an action as replacing the timing chain of a scooter, you need to decide on how to implement your plan.
There are two replacement options:
How to change, everyone decides for themselves. Both methods, advantages and disadvantages are described in detail below.
With disassembly
You should choose the right tools - generator and variator pullers (you can make them yourself), a kickstarter sprocket puller, 8, 10, 12 and 17 mm sockets, a hammer, two screwdrivers (flat, Phillips).
The engine is removed from its place, the oil is poured out, all parts are wiped and cleaned. Next, remove the muffler and cooling casing. We remove the generator only with a puller. To do this, unscrew the bolts from the impeller and remove it from the rotor. It is necessary to fix the rotor with a puller and unscrew the nut. Then we tear the rotor off the crankshaft journal. Remove the variator cover. Also, secure the impeller with a puller, unscrew the nut, and remove the variator from the axle.
Below the variator is the kickstarter gear. Likewise, a puller is required for it. Then we clean the cylinder connector, valve covers and cylinder head. After unscrewing the bolts on the valve covers, remove it. Next, remove the scooter's timing chain tensioner. After unscrewing the bolts on the cylinder head, we pull out the camshaft bed.
Next, remove the chain from the camshaft and pull it out of bed. To avoid losing the guide bushings that center the parts relative to each other, you need to remove them and put them away. We remove the cylinder head, the cylinder itself, and the piston (to do this, remove the retaining ring and pin from the upper connecting rod head).
After unscrewing the bolts on the crankcase cover, tapping it a little, remove it from the engine. We take out the starter intermediate gear, use a screwdriver and a hammer to unscrew the overrunning clutch nut (clockwise) and remove the gear and housing from the trunnion. We reached the chain!
Remove the protective shield from the oil pump. Place a metal stick under the chain, twist the nut on the oil pump sprocket, remove it and remove the chain.
No disassembly
We take the following tools: a Phillips screwdriver, pliers, a new chain and a special puller. More details about it will be below. We flare the new chain - to do this, use a puller to press the pin out of the joint of the links, but not completely.
A little about the puller
It is called a timing chain puller. It can be made by a turner by turning a threaded extruding pin and rolling a strong pin into it with a diameter similar to that of a chain pin. You can purchase a ready-made bicycle one. Just narrow the pin a little to the desired size.
Remove the cooling casing from the scooter engine, then the cylinder head cover. Next you need to remove the chain tensioner. We remove the camshaft bed, take out the shaft, remove the star.
We take the puller, center it with the pin, and gradually press out the pin. You can press it out completely, it will not be useful. We compare the links of the new and old chains, thread the wire into the seat of the pin and fix the ends of both chains. We turn the cooling impeller counterclockwise, gradually replacing the old chain with a new one.
Then we separate the ends of the chains, throw out the old one, and combine the new links from the ends. We check the alignment, install the pin, and use pliers to carefully press the pin in so as not to damage the new chain. We first check the mobility of the links. We finalize the pin with a puller. Again we control mobility. This point is very important: if you install the pin unevenly and miss it, it will begin to rest against one of the links and squeeze out the next one.
As a result, the subsequent pin or link bends, causing it to jam and become immobile.
Next, we assemble the engine in reverse order, placing marks on the rotor. When installing the camshaft bed, after tightening the nuts, you need to check the valve clearances with a feeler gauge. Upper valve – inlet: 0.05mm, lower – exhaust: – 0.1. The feeler gauge should fit freely between the valve and the adjusting bolt.
Then install the chain tensioner. We unscrew the bolt on the top of the tensioner, install a screwdriver in the groove, and, turning it, push the rod back. We fix everything else back according to the diagram.
Source
SCOOTER. ENGINE TIMING GEAR ASSEMBLY (50CC)
ATTENTION!
The cylinder head gasket is made of soft metal (copper, aluminum) and after tightening the cylinder head nuts it is deformed, thereby ensuring a tight connection. Reinstallation of the cylinder head gasket is not permitted. 2. Install the timing chain guide. 3. Install the cylinder head. 4. Set the piston to TDC according to the marks on the flywheel. This is usually the "T" mark on the flywheel. Align the mark with the tide on the engine crankcase.
ATTENTION!
The following operation is one of the most important when assembling the engine. It is important to align all the marks very accurately. An error in installing the chain even by 1-2 teeth will result in the engine not working correctly, and it will probably even lead to serious damage to the timing and cylinder-piston gas parts when trying to start the engine! 5. After making sure that the timing chain has not jumped off the drive sprocket on the crankshaft, install the camshaft into the cylinder head, at the same time putting a chain on its sprocket so that the marks on the camshaft sprocket are parallel to the plane of the edge of the cylinder head, and the cams are directed downward (inside the head).
6. Install the rocker arm support, orienting it according to the installation marks. Lubricate the cams and camshaft bearings.
On the rocker arm support are the letters “EX” - which means “EXHAUST” - release. The "EX" mark should be located above the exhaust valve.
ATTENTION!
• Check the correct axial alignment of the camshaft (make sure that the camshaft bearings are correctly positioned on the beds). It is likely that on some scooter models there will be an “IN” - “INTAKE” - inlet mark on the holder. Accordingly, the “IN” mark must be located above the inlet valve.
ATTENTION!
If the copper washers are severely deformed (flattened), they must be replaced, since if the washers do not fit tightly due to oil leakage, the pressure in the lubrication system will drop and the motor will quickly fail. Sealing this connection with any sealant is unacceptable. 7. Install sealing copper washers on the studs. 8. Screw on all four cylinder head nuts without tightening them. 9. We recess the working rod of the timing chain tensioner inside the housing. 10. Reinstall the timing chain tensioner and tighten its mounting bolts.
11. Insert the working bolt and the timing chain tensioner spring, tighten it. In this case, you can hear characteristic clicks - the ratcheting mechanism of the tensioner working rod will be activated, which, under the influence of a spring, will come out of the housing and tension the timing chain.
12. Sequentially, crosswise tighten the cylinder head nuts in 3-4 steps. The final tightening torque is 10-15 Nm (More accurate values can be found in the repair instructions for the specific scooter model). 13. Screw in and tighten the additional cylinder head bolts. 14. Using a socket wrench for the central bolt of the flywheel, or with your hands holding the flywheel, slowly turn the engine crankshaft clockwise 3-4 turns to make sure that the timing timing is set correctly and the piston does not collide with the valves.
15. We install the crankshaft at TDC of the compression stroke and once again check the correct installation of the camshaft according to the marks.
16. Adjust the valve clearances (see). 17. Rotate the crankshaft several turns and once again check that the valve clearances are set correctly. 18. Install the cylinder head cover and tighten its bolts. 19. Place the crankcase ventilation hose onto the fitting in the cylinder head cover. 20. Install the cylinder cooling casing.
Setting the timing belt on a delta moped
1. Install a new cylinder head gasket.
ATTENTION!
The cylinder head gasket is made of soft metal (copper, aluminum) and after tightening the cylinder head nuts it is deformed, thereby ensuring a tight connection. Reinstallation of the cylinder head gasket is not permitted.
2. Install the timing chain guide.
3. Install the cylinder head.
4. Set the piston to TDC according to the marks on the flywheel. This is usually the "T" mark on the flywheel. Align the mark with the tide on the engine crankcase.
ATTENTION!
The following operation is one of the most important when assembling the engine. It is important to align all the marks very accurately. An error in installing the chain even by 1-2 teeth will result in the engine not working correctly, and it will probably even lead to serious damage to the timing and cylinder-piston gas parts when trying to start the engine!
5. After making sure that the timing chain has not jumped off the drive sprocket on the crankshaft, install the camshaft into the cylinder head, at the same time putting a chain on its sprocket so that the marks on the camshaft sprocket are parallel to the plane of the edge of the cylinder head, and the cams are directed downward (inside the head).
6. Install the rocker arm support, orienting it according to the installation marks. Lubricate the cams and camshaft bearings.
Preparatory work
It is imperative to clean the chain, otherwise tensioning will not work. There is grease on metal surfaces, and dust accumulates on top over time. These contaminants cannot be washed off in ordinary water; you need to use auto chemicals. It is better to choose a product in the form of an aerosol that will not corrode the seals - chain O-rings
If the mechanism is heavily dirty, it is advisable to remove the cover from the drive sprocket. It is important to ensure that the retaining nut is well tightened. The cleaning itself is carried out as follows:
Cleaning the moped chain Now you need to determine the degree of wear of the elements. The chain links should not jam, ideally they move easily. It is also necessary to check the presence and condition of the seals. The sprocket teeth must not be bent, pointed or damaged. Wear on the tooth surfaces may be associated with improper installation of the rear wheel.
To determine the condition of the chain, you need to check whether there are areas where the tension is too high or, conversely, weak. To do this, you need to manually turn the wheel. If such areas are present, it means that the bushings and pins have worn unevenly. In this case, the distance between the pins increases and the chain becomes longer.
Severely worn chain
Often the cause of the appearance of sections with different tensions are problems with other components of the moped. The sprockets may be installed with an incorrectly centered hole or the wrong diameter. Uneven tension may be due to severe wear on the wheel hub or failure of the sprocket hub bearings. But other damage may also be discovered, so it is important to carry out a thorough inspection.
It is easy to determine the degree of wear by the length of the chain. To do this you need to pull it back. It is important to try to pull the chain off the sprocket at the same time. Replacement is required when, when attempting to remove, most of the sprocket tooth becomes visible. If the chain rollers are bent and squeak when driving, it is better to change the part along with the sprockets.
After cleaning, you need to align the rear wheel. This is an easy task if the axis is marked. But the marks sometimes get confused, so additional checking is necessary. As the rear wheel rotates, you need to shine a flashlight and pay attention to the chain. If it does not move straight, it means the installation was not done correctly.
After installing the rear wheel, you need to remember where the marks are located. If they are not symmetrical, this indicates that the marks were applied incorrectly. In this case, you can draw new marks on the reverse side of the chain with a marker. When tightening the rear axle, it is important to push the wrench toward the front wheel.
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Although office dress codes are becoming more casual, it's still nice to feel smart and dress appropriately when heading to work. How to change a chain
timing belt? The timing belt of the VAZ 2106 will, just like it, hit the rack on the side member. How. This is why wearing jeans for your nine-five can be challenging. Replacing the air filter on an alpha (Orion 50v) how to remove and insert the air filter on an alpha moped video. So how to do this? Trilogy Stores, luxury denim retailers of straight cut jeans for women, give us some insight: Styling Jeans If you're new to wearing denim to work, or your office isn't very relaxed, you can play around with black denim. Worn with a patterned shirt, tucked in with high-waisted black jeans can create a more suitable look than black work pants. The high-waisted element of jeans can lengthen your legs. perfect for when you settle into your favorite pairs of heels. Buy a pair of black jeans with a playful hem to add an edge to your outfit that's still smart. Coulotters are super popular this season, and there's no reason why you can't bring the trend to the table. Black or brunette denim jeans paired with a chic blouse, oversized jacket and voyeuristic plaid. This is an outfit that will look summery but work appropriate. Wear your blouse to dress up your suit and add heels when heading out for after-dinner drinks. Likewise, cut-off leg jeans are suitable for the warmer months and a pair of wells with loafers and a comedy combo. If you want to add something but don't want it to be too loud, choose a pastel palette. Lilac or blue. Classic blue skinny jeans don't have to look casual either. With a white sleeveless shirt and a trusty blazer, you can create a fashionable ensemble that is anything but boring. Before as
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Before you start adjusting the valves
Therefore, after purchasing a new Alpha RX, I checked the valve clearance. For this procedure I had to buy a set of probes. In our case, you will need a probe with a thickness of 0.05 mm.
In order to calmly begin adjusting the valves, I had to unscrew the safety bars. For this we need a key of 8.
To get to the valves, you need to unscrew the valve covers located on the top and bottom of the cylinder head. To do this we need a 17 wrench. I used a spanner.
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Setting TDC on Alpha
To start adjusting the valves on the Alpha moped, you need to set the top dead center. To do this, remove two covers on the rotor cover. Rotate the rotor until the T mark appears.
To accurately control this process, you need to remove the timing sprocket cover. To do this, on the opposite side you need to unscrew the clamping bolt, which can be unscrewed with a 10mm wrench. Remove the timing chain sprocket cover carefully so as not to damage the gasket.
The star has a mark in the form of a dot. It should be aligned with the mark on the head body.
To easily turn the engine mechanisms, I unscrewed the spark plug, reducing the compression to nothing.
Now you can begin adjusting the valves on the engine.
How to tension a chain on an Alpha moped - step-by-step instructions
To simplify access to the necessary components, first remove the rear left passenger footrest. The moped must be placed on the center stand. It is also advisable to unscrew the bolt and remove the exhaust pipe. If this is not done, the ratchet heads cannot be used.
Next, take two keys - 17 and 14 mm. You need to unscrew the nut to loosen the wheel axle. The nut is unscrewed, but not completely. With the second key you need to hold the axle on the reverse side so that there is a stop. If you don't hold it on the reverse side, the axis will spin.
To change or not to change?
Suppose you are overhauling your engine: changing oil seals, crankshaft, gaskets and other devices, but you doubt whether to replace the timing chain with a new one or not. If you have any doubts, change it for a new one at the first opportunity. And now I will explain why.
See for yourself: a chain has an average service life of approximately 18,000-20,000 km of a scooter (personal experience), approximately the same as the average service life of the engine itself. And for example, after driving 6,000 km, the crankshaft jammed or the engine leaked, or something else happened that requires complete disassembly of the engine. Naturally, you disassemble the engine, replace the crankshaft with a new one, and leave the chain, which by that time has exhausted a third of its service life.
And what happens? The chain, after 12,000 km, will exhaust its service life and become unusable, but the crankshaft and other parts will be in good order and whether you like it or not, you will have to halve the engine again, because of the chain alone. Is it necessary? The chain is a consumable. Never skimp on it!
Personally, I never check timing chains. I simply throw them in the trash, no matter how awesome they seem to me. A chain is a consumable item for me, just like a spark plug, oil or oil seal. But if you are important, or money is tight, you can use the old fashioned way.
When and why to check the circuit
Manufacturers recommend checking every 1,000 kilometers. Under intense loads, if you have to travel hundreds of kilometers per day, inspection is required much more often. But by installing a high-quality chain, the motorcyclist will be able to reduce the number of checks.
Just by looking at the moped from the outside, it is not difficult for a specialist to determine if the chain is not tensioned correctly. Such an error when servicing a moped can lead to a break in the chain during a trip. Over-tightening occurs quite often and, despite the presence of lubrication, leads to accelerated wear of the chain. As a result, the suspension begins to work incorrectly. Over time, the hub may fail.
Valve adjustment on Alpha
I want to touch on an interesting topic that everyone has heard about, but not everyone understands its essence - let's talk about valve adjustment.
A little theory.
First, a little theory. Where did the need to adjust the valves come from and why is the thermal gap needed?
Any four-stroke engine has at least two valves: an intake valve, through which the working mixture enters the combustion chamber, and an exhaust valve, through which exhaust gases exit. Part of the valve is constantly located in the combustion chamber and therefore the valve becomes very hot. And as we know from school physics courses, bodies expand when heated. Moreover, the stronger the heating, the greater the expansion.
The valves in the engine are always in a “spring-loaded” state, while the valve plate is pressed very tightly to its seat - the valve seat. This ensures that the valve closes tightly.
To open the valve, you need to press on it. In our case, the valve is pressed by a rocker arm, which moves under the influence of the camshaft cam.
Now let’s imagine that the engine is cold (it stood for several hours and all the parts cooled down to “room” temperature). If you start the engine, the valves will begin to heat up quickly and, as a result, lengthen. If you do not leave it room for expansion (the gap between the rocker arm and the valve stem), then the moment will come when the valve will elongate so much that it will not fit tightly to its seat and will begin to leak gases from the combustion chamber. This leads to a loss of engine power and can also lead to overheating and burnt valves.
IMPORTANT: the gaps are set on a cold engine , when the valve has not yet had time to lengthen.
What happens if the valves are adjusted incorrectly?
Very often on various forums questions are asked: “What will happen if the valves are adjusted incorrectly?” There are two possible options:
Thus, too little clearance is much more dangerous than too much. It is for this reason that it is not recommended to set gaps “by ear” without feeler gauges. If there is a feeler gauge between the rocker arm and the valve, there will already be a gap between the rocker arm and the valve, unless of course you clamp it with great force.
Why combine tags?
The valves must be adjusted in a position where the rocker arm does not press on the valve stem, that is, the valve is closed. When a four-stroke engine is running, both valves are closed at the end of the compression stroke, so for ease of adjustment, align the mark on the camshaft sprocket with the mark on the head housing. This position corresponds to the top dead center - the end of the “compression” stroke and the beginning of the “power stroke” and both valves are closed at this moment and can be adjusted.
By and large, it is not necessary to clearly combine these marks, because both valves close already at the beginning of the compression stroke and do not open until almost the end of the power stroke, that is, the valves are closed at least half a revolution. That is, there is nothing to worry about if you “overshoot” the mark a little, or if you don’t reach it a little (within reasonable limits, of course).
For some reason, some “craftsmen” in their video instructions combine the “T” mark on the crankshaft flywheel. It is not necessary to do this to adjust the valves. For one revolution of the camshaft, the crankshaft makes two revolutions, and the mark will coincide twice: once at the end of the compression stroke, and the second time at the end of the exhaust stroke (when the exhaust valve is still open and the intake valve is preparing to open).
What should the valve clearance be on an Alpha?
The intake valve clearance on most engines is usually less than the exhaust valve clearance. This is due to the fact that the intake valves heat up less. They are cooled by fresh air flows.
The thermal clearance of the intake valve for the 139FMB engine is 0.03 mm. For the exhaust valve, the gap is 0.05 mm.
