Popular moped "Alpha" - repair instructions and specifications

The Alpha model is a universal bike that is suitable for both rural areas and city trips.

Among the main advantages of this vehicle is a motorcycle fit, reliable design and high cross-country ability. By the way, the size of the wheels allows the device to drive even on difficult routes, which is especially important for our roads. Alpha's resource is also excellent. They serve for 8-10 years without problems, but in order for all components of the devices to work properly, it is necessary to carry out regular maintenance.

Carry out maintenance of the Alpha moped yourself

Having purchased an Alpha moped, it is important to read the instruction manual. In the documentation, the manufacturer indicates the frequency of maintenance. But first, the rider needs to break in the bike. Before the first maintenance, which is carried out after 500 km, you only need to accelerate to 35-40 km/h. But at maximum speed the throttle should be open no more than 50%.

After the new moped has traveled 500 km, the first maintenance should be carried out. The rider must:

• Check components: battery, clutch, fuse, air filter, fuel hose, carburetor, steering bearing.
• Clean the oil filter and spark plugs.
• Change engine oil and brake fluid.
• Adjust valve clearances, brakes.
• Tighten the fasteners.

If after inspection it turns out that some parts are faulty, you need to order new spare parts for the Alpha moped.

Practical theory test for motorcyclists (1 of 2) | DVSA

Start practice test

This practical theory test for motorcyclists and moped drivers is designed to allow you to see how the DVSA theory test works. You will need to revise everything to ensure you cover all the topics and give yourself the best chance of passing the exam. We recommend that you use the official training materials listed below.

You can take a mock theory test at

• Hands-On Review - Designed to work on most PCs, mobile phones and tablets.
• “test view” is similar to the screens in the theory testing center.

Use the button on the test page to switch between these two views.

The test has 50 questions and you need to get 43 correct answers. You have 57 minutes to do this.

You can review your answers at the end of the test and then take a second practice test.

You can also practice the Hazard Perception Test for free to see how the DVSA Hazard Perception Test works.

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Maintenance of the Alpha moped engine

In order for the motor to work stably and properly, it is necessary to carry out periodic maintenance. It is important to change the oil in a timely manner by choosing appropriate lubricants. The condition of the pistons is checked, the presence of carbon deposits on them. If dirt accumulates on parts, it negatively affects other systems, such as cylinder heads.

In order for the engine of the equipment to work properly, you need to fill it only with high-quality and proven oil. If fuel consumption has increased, there is a burning smell or other signs of improper engine operation, you need to perform maintenance or overhaul the engine. When servicing the engine, the following consumables are changed:

• Valve cover seals.
• Rubber seals.
• Spark plug.

You should also check the battery operation and replace the filters if necessary. If engine repair is required, it is dismantled together with the gearbox. This is a difficult task that is best left to professionals.

Front fork

I was thinking about changing the oil in the front fork on an Alfa, I looked on the Internet and found how much to pour (in the Alfa 120 ml, in the Delta 160 ml (in each leg)), but I couldn’t find any exact criteria about what kind of oil to pour there.
Questions: Have you changed the oil in the fork? Which one did you fill and how many ml? At what mileage did you decide to change the oil?

Added after 5 minutes

I’m also thinking about replacing the front drum brake with a disc brake, but since there is no mount for a caliper on the fork legs, I’m thinking of installing a complete fork or just the legs from Parton King 50. But I don’t know the size of the fork from King and whether it will fit into the Alpha yokes

There, as far as I know, the oil is not changed but topped up as needed. They suggested oil to me and 20. spindle in common parlance.

Added after 2 minutes

I’m also thinking about replacing the front drum brake with a disc brake, but since there is no fastening for a caliper on the fork legs, I’m thinking of installing a complete fork or just the legs from Parton King 50. But I don’t know the size of the King fork and whether it will fit into the Alpha crossbars [/ quote]

Take and measure the diameters of the pipes with a rod of both. And compare. But there is no reason to install a disk drive on 50 cubic meters. And then decide for yourself.

I changed it and barely opened the feathers. Clamped in a vice in a barbaric manner, removed the decor on the fork and clamped it in it. So I opened it. I temporarily filled it with 10w40, at least better than the original oil. I poured it to the edge in clamped fork. (This might be correct, but it’s temporary)

They also pour a transmission (a wide variety), there is a special one. oils for this, for example Motul fork oil expert of different hardness 7.5W 10W 15W. (Light, medium, hard)

Hydraulic oil MGP-10 TU U 00152365.111-99

Hydraulic oil MGP-10 is a composition of low-viscosity, low-solidifying petroleum oil, depressant, dispersant, anti-wear, antioxidant and anti-foam additives.

Intended for use as a working fluid in hydraulic shock absorbers of automobiles

Ensures shock absorbers operate over a wide temperature range.

Good anti-wear characteristics. Physico-chemical indicators: No. Name of indicator Indicator value 1. Color, CNT units, no more than 5 2. Kinematic viscosity, mm2/s at minus 20°C, no more than 1000 at plus 20°C, not less than 35, 0 at plus 50°С, not lower than 10 3. Pour point, °С, not higher than minus 40 4. Flash point, determined in an open crucible, °С, not lower than 145 5. Acid number, mg KOH/g oil, not more than 0.15 6. Corrosion effect on metal withstands 7. Mass fraction of water, %, no more than none 8. Mass fraction of mechanical impurities, %, no more than none 9. Change in rubber volume after aging, %, ranging from minus 6 to plus 6 10. Tribological characteristics on a four-wheel drive: welding load (Рз), N, not less than 2820 critical load (Рк), N, not less than 710 scuffing index (Iz), N, not less than 324 Added after 6 minutes

How to check the brake system

One of the mandatory components that needs to be checked during maintenance is the brake system. The wear of its components depends on driving conditions and driving style. If the rider brakes frequently, rides on dirt roads or off-road, the brake linings will wear out quickly. Therefore, system setup may be required much faster than indicated in the manufacturer's instructions. Also, if the components are damaged, the rider will have to buy new spare parts for the motorcycle.

Important! Regularly check the condition of the brake friction linings. If the thickness in any area becomes less than 1.5 mm, the brake pad must be replaced.

Front brake maintenance is carried out according to the following scheme:

• Loosen the adjusting nut.
• Adjust the cable length.
• Check the brake lever travel. It should be approximately 8-15 mm;
• Lower the lever. Remember that the wheel should rotate freely without touching the pads.

After the procedure, you need to check whether the adjusting nut is tightly clamped. It should touch the surface of the pin cylinder with its concave end. The rear brake is adjusted according to the following scheme:

• The adjusting nut is twisted.
• The cable length is adjustable.
• Check the travel at the end of the brake pedal. It should be 20-30 mm.
• The pedal is released. In this case, the wheel should spin freely without touching the brake.

After completing the above steps, the adjusting nut is tightened. In this case, it should be adjacent to the pin with its concave end.

Cornering

An equally important point is how to drive the scooter when cornering. There are many myths and misconceptions about this, while experts are more clear.

You should first visually calculate the entry trajectory and adjust the speed limit to the required level. At increased speeds, there is a high probability of a decrease in adhesion characteristics with the road surface, therefore, it is necessary to start the maneuver moderately. Compliance with this rule will ensure controllability during the turn. There are two ways to enter a turn:

1. tilting the body in unison with the tilt of the scooter;
2. Tilt of the vehicle only (applicable at low speeds).

The first method is the most common and universal. Experienced riders of both small and large motorcycles describe it as safe and comfortable. The second one requires more skill and is used to enter a turn with a reduced radius.

It is not recommended for beginners to use it for the first time. It’s also worth remembering that before starting this maneuver, you should definitely finish braking.

Following these simple but important rules will not only make driving a scooter easier and safer, but will also make any trip pleasant and comfortable.

How to choose the right oil for a moped?

After the driver has ridden the moped for 500 km, the oil in the crankcase needs to be changed. It is also necessary to periodically check the lubricant level in the crankcase. And to carry out this procedure, you need to place the bike on a level area.

After this, unscrew the dipstick, which is located to the right of the crankcase. It is used to check the oil level. There should be a mark on the dipstick, which will indicate the amount of lubricant. If there is less oil than necessary, you need to add a little liquid. The parameters of the oil used for the Alpha moped are as follows:

• Composition for a four-stroke engine.
• API SE, SF.
• SAE 15W40.

Please note that you should not mix different types of oils. Also, do not pour compounds for two-stroke engines into 4-stroke internal combustion engines. If fluid from one manufacturer was poured into the crankcase, but the driver wants to use a composition from another brand, the system must first be flushed. You can buy the necessary spare parts and high-quality components for maintenance in the online store.

In this post I will talk about technical issues. So, we rode on two Alfa mopeds (one, mine, is used, the second, Andrei’s, has just been tested for 600 km). Before the trip, we reassembled my engine so that there were no surprises on the road, changed the oil for both of us and drove off. The average speed over the passes was about 40-55 km/h, on the highway the cruising speed was 85-90 km/h (once we accelerated down a hill to 102 km/h - fire =)). As for the distance and time, at the beginning of the journey (from Krasnodar to Gagra) we covered 120-170 km per day. The passes are more difficult, so it took from 6 to 9 hours a day with breaks every 60 km to warm up.

In principle, it was difficult only on the second day (there is a separate video story about this on Instagram), when we drove only 160 km through the passes, but were wildly tired (experienced travelers suggest multiplying the kilometers in the passes by two in order to understand how the body will feel cope with such a load). We had already rolled into Abkhazia and the same 160-200 km a day was much easier. The longest distance we covered was from Grozny to Nevinnomysk on the way back - it’s 426 km! I’m scared to even write about this, because it was really hard, we spent 11 hours on the road, with minimal breaks. After that, driving 330-350 km a day no longer seemed unrealistic. We returned from Makhachkala to Krasnodar in three days. After returning from Abkhazia, in the Stavropol Territory, to be honest, driving was already boring - a straight road, only beautiful views of the mountains saved us. The advantages are that you can travel more kilometers and it’s easier, but... and this is the main thing, despite the loaded motorcycles, these are trucks and others who want to overtake you. It is clear that we did not pretend to drive in traffic, but many drivers do not always understand what aerodynamics are and how it affects other road users. The weight of our mopeds did not always allow us to stay on that trajectory when overtaking, so it was scary. However, one common mistake is to pull to the side of the road when overtaking. NEVER do this! Take a better lane and anyone who is not satisfied with your speed will be overtaken by changing lanes. There was another unpleasant fact - the wind. I envy the heavyweights, it was very difficult to control the alpha, because the wind sometimes blew it 1.5 meters to the side. And we also had windshields installed. Although I did see a benefit from installing them - when there is a headwind, your chest doesn’t hurt afterwards (the wind hit only your shoulders, which really hurt them). There have been many stories about the peculiarities of driving in Abkhazia and Chechnya/Dagestan, and here’s what you should know from our observations: 1. In Abkhazia, no one cares about the rules, there are no prohibitions or signs for them, if they want to turn through two solid ones, they do it will do. Make allowances for this and then it will be easier to assess the traffic situation, since she sometimes uses turn signals. However, drivers warned us about overtaking: 1 signal - I'm going to overtake you, 2 signals - hello. Despite the chaos, they still keep their distance when overtaking, for which many thanks to them. There are a lot of broken cars in this country, they drive recklessly with great pleasure. According to the stories of those who are less fortunate - if you get into an accident, then forget that they will compensate you or restore something, another country, its own rules and nevermind what you will prove to them. Take care of yourself and be careful. By the way, there are a lot of speed bumps in Abkhazia, but there are no warning signs. 2. The Stavropol Territory, like Dagestan, does not please with its roads, and at the same time there are no signs that could warn about this. Be careful, we had a lot of potholes at inappropriate times. 3. In Dagestan, in addition to bad roads, there are also fierce racers. I thought that driving was dangerous in Krasnodar, but no. We added a couple of gray hairs while moving around Makhachkala. “Checkers” is their favorite game, at high speed and with disregard for all the rules, just keep this in mind. 4. You can be calmer in Chechnya - discipline in everything. Good roads, driving according to the rules, distance between participants and other delights. I can guess that this whole order came from a large number of cameras in all courtyards and traffic cops at every traffic light (they actually work there). If you have anything to add regarding driving characteristics, write, I’ll be happy to read it.

Our consumption (my favorite) was 1.5-1.8 liters per 100 km. This is a huge advantage of driving a moped =) During the entire journey we spent approximately 109 liters for two over 3369 km =)

As for spare parts, we didn’t have any special problems. My head light went out a couple of times, the brake cable was replaced, the chain was tightened twice, the turn signal did not work (the contacts kept coming off), the spark plug and spark plug cap were changed (it was cracked from a collision, I can tell you later) and after Makhachkala I lost traction - the channel in the carbe (cleaned and moved on). Andrey’s moped coped with all the difficulties like a war horse; on his moped we only tightened the chain and adjusted the valves. Although one day, during heavy rain, the carburetor took in water and had to be drained. Fortunately, we took the spare parts with us, but we had to buy a candle - in Tuapse it cost us 350 rubles (we were completely crazy).

Butter, fuck it. There was no room to take it with us and we hoped to buy it on the road. We didn’t buy what we wanted and, naturally, it was more expensive. So, if you have the opportunity to take it with you, take it; it’s expensive to purchase on the road. Another point concerns tires - we didn’t take a tire with us, but it would have been nice. On Andrey’s new Alpha the tires turned out to be so-so and after 3000 the tread almost wore off. Not critical, but still. And as they say, “everything that you didn’t take with you from spare parts will definitely be needed,” so it’s a purely individual point.

To be continued…

Fuse blown

Another possible reason why your ATV won't start could be a blown fuse. If the all-terrain vehicle is small, there is usually only one fuse. It is located next to the battery. The suitability of this part for use can be assessed visually. The cost of the fuse is cheap, so it is better to have several of these parts in stock.

If there is no spare fuse, and the breakdown occurred far from home, you can insert a wire instead. This is a temporary solution that will allow you to get home. You cannot permanently replace a fuse with a wire. You can burn much more expensive elements of the system.

Let's start

The scooter engine start circuit is quite simple, understandable and universal, even in cases where the scooter starts when cold.
First you need to insert the ignition key and immediately turn it. Then hold down the brake lever. Give a little gas and press the start button. It is important not to forget to remove the scooter from the side stand, since on some branded and Japanese models, due to the unremoved side stand, a special sensor may be triggered when the engine starts, which will prevent it from starting from the starter. If the scooter is technically in full working order and it’s not very cold outside, then literally after a couple of seconds the engine should already be rattling peacefully, even if you start it when it’s cold - and you’ll be able to go about your business after just a few minutes of warming up the engine. Why is it important to wait? Because when driving when cold there is too much load, which is bad for the engine. [ads-pc-1]

How to decorate your scooter and make it stand out from the crowd?

A scooter in Russia is already a completely familiar means of transportation, often not evoking any emotions among other road users. But sometimes the owner of a scooter wants to somehow stand out against the background of a homogeneous flow of vehicles moving every day along the roads of our country.

How to do it? We will offer you several options for customizing your scooter.

Scooter airbrushing

Today, no one is surprised by the designs on cars, but they still attract the attention of pedestrians and motorists. Airbrushing is a surefire way to transform your vehicle. Why is a scooter worse than a car in this sense? It can also be decorated like a car. Of course, there is not much space for drawings on a scooter, but it is enough to realize your imagination. In addition, you can paint both the scooter and the helmet, and even the luggage case, if you have one, in the same style. In addition, airbrush services for a scooter, due to the small area for painting, will cost you much less than for a car.

Tuning features

Tuning an Alpha moped is a rather fertile topic. There are a lot of options for improving the qualities of the model, and the cost of tuning is much lower than for a Chinese scooter of the same price category. The simplicity of the structure makes it possible to improve both the engine itself and external elements at your discretion.

Tuning Alpha can be carried out in different directions and, before starting improvement, it is worth paying attention to those qualities that will be changed. This modification should not be confused with styling - it only changes aesthetic indicators and does not in any way affect the functional characteristics.

Tuning an Alpha moped with your own hands is a very interesting task, which over time can greatly captivate the owner. The ability to refine the characteristics implies making both external and internal changes that can improve the functionality of the model. Many hobbyists purchase an Alpha moped as a future base for realizing their own ideas.

Downloads

When braking and changing gears, you should ALWAYS try to sit as far away from the tank as possible, resting your knees on the tank. The landing helps load the rear wheel, which is unloaded by braking at the front, and helps the torque limiter work. If you are sitting in the back, the likelihood that the rear wheel will start jumping when shifting down is significantly reduced.

There are a lot of myths regarding gear shifting. Simple rules:

• the faster you shift, the less you wear out the clutch;
• the higher the rpm, the faster you shift;
• you can and should slow down with gears;
• you can move from 5th to first gear (understanding why this is necessary and what will follow);
• you can and should shift at high speeds;
• Shifting gears without a clutch causes minor wear to the fork and camshaft.

Switch down

In order to understand what you should be wary of when shifting down, do a simple exercise: accelerate in second gear and completely close the throttle, while braking the engine, depress the clutch and roll with the clutch depressed, you will see that the engine speed will drop to idle, now, if you release the clutch there will be a sharp push, up to the temporary blocking of the rear wheel - the motorcycle will try to spin the engine from idle speed to the speed at which the motorcycle is currently moving. If you raise the speed when you release the clutch, the push will be less noticeable, and if the engine speed matches the speed at which the motorcycle is moving in second gear, there will be no jerk at all.

When you shift down, you must either do it quickly with the throttle closed in order to prevent the engine speed from dropping, or use over-throttle - i.e. add gas when shifting down.

So - quickly depress the clutch, quickly click the gear down - quickly release the clutch. If you do it slowly, we recommend using over-throttle - i.e. at the moment when the clutch is depressed and the speed begins to drop to idle speed - briefly, sharply raise the speed and, shifting down, release the clutch. The goal is that the rpm at which the lower gear is engaged should be either the same or 1500 higher than the rpm at which you shift.

Replacing wheels

In order to install or remove the rear wheel of your scooter, it is not at all necessary to become a client of an expensive service. Moreover, the price there often bites quite significantly.

How to remove

Sooner or later, every motorcycle owner faces the need to remove a flat rear tire. The price of a service from a professional tire service can hit your pocket, so you can try to solve the problem yourself.

Removing the rear wheel from a scooter is somewhat more difficult: to do this, you will have to disassemble part of the equipment. If the price of the issue is too high, and the owner is not a professional, then it’s still not worth the risk.

How to install a wheel

Putting the rear wheel on a scooter will be quite simple for someone who understands the issue. Reinstall the rear wheel in reverse order, making sure that all parts are installed correctly.

Preparation for purchase

It is advisable to drive as many hours as possible before purchasing your iron horse – and not just on smooth asphalt. It is worth organizing rides along forest roads in order to learn how to stay in the saddle in extreme conditions. You will need to pass a category M license. Obtaining this category is allowed from the age of 16 on the territory of the Russian Federation. And you can go on your first trip on your own motorized vehicle.

Moped license – category M

The undeniable advantage when choosing a moped is its efficiency - consumption is about two liters per hundred kilometers, with a gasoline tank capacity of 4 liters this is quite acceptable. A definite plus when deciding to own an Alpha. And even if you have to ride throughout the warm season, the efficiency of a moped will allow you to partially save your budget. "Alpha" has five horsepower at a maximum speed of 7500 per minute.

Motor wheel

The motor wheel is a relatively new product on the domestic market. Having appeared a little later than the electric motor, the wheel motor has a number of enviable advantages:

• the design of the motor device is characterized by high efficiency;
• the motor wheel is quite easy to repair;
• the wheel motor has a high specific power;
• also the motor wheel has economical space;
• The price of the wheel motor is relatively low.

The current period can be called the second birthday of the wheel motor. More modernized motor models can be used for:

• electric bicycle;
• electric car;
• electric scooter.

The motor device intended for electric motorcycle equipment is a vertical brushless synchronous electric motor equipped with direct current. An armature is used as an axis, mounted on the engine housing using two bearings. The strator of the motor model is made of ultra-strong electrical steel.

Scooter wheel motor kit

The motor device is extremely reliable and, with proper care, can last for many years. The quality of the bearings determines the working life of the motor model. The type and power of the latest motor devices varies from 100 W to 15 kW. An excellent solution would be to purchase and install this know-how on your moped. The price of a model with a power of 500 W is about 17 thousand rubles.

SAE classification

The latest edition of the classification divides motor oils into 11 classes: 6 winter (0W, 5W, 10W, 15W, 20W, 25W) and 5 summer (20, 30, 40, 50, 60) viscosity classes. The letter W (Winter) before the number means that the oil is adapted to work at low temperatures.

Most motor oils on the market today are all-season, that is, they meet viscosity requirements at both low and high temperatures and have a double designation, for example in our case: SAE 15W-40 . The first number characterizes the pumpability of the oil at low temperatures. If you subtract 35 from the first digit, you get the minimum temperature at which a safe cold start of the engine is possible. The second number is an indicator of oil viscosity at 100 degrees Celsius. If you add 5 to the second digit, you get the maximum permissible air temperature at which the oil can be used.

It will be useful: Where is the frame number on a passenger trailer?

Lacks low end and traction power

You will have to disassemble the motor and change the technical specifications. Alfa moped engine tuning is provided with components of different prices and quality. A motor of this configuration is an exact copy of a Honda motor that has been produced for many years. There are clubs for moped lovers with this engine all over the world. Road races, enduro and off-road races are held. And, as a rule, where there is serious sport, there is civilian tuning. Forged piston and connecting rod, four-valve head with Ducati-style desmodromic mechanism, dry clutch, water cooling. The injection system is from Yoshimura... But since we are now talking about an Alpha moped, the price of which in the store is less than the cost of any of the listed components, our tuning option is more modest.

Alpha engine tuning

Engine tuning can be immediate aggregate or unit and stage-by-stage. On sale you can find engines with the same method of mounting to the frame, but with a volume of 110 cc, 125 cc or 150 cc. An increase in engine capacity will entail the need to register with the traffic police, but this is an organizational issue. The technical side will be as follows: the electrical wiring remains the same, a larger engine will require a different carburetor and a different exhaust pipe. Most likely, they will be found in the same place as the motor itself.

Alpha moped engine with increased volume

Nodal tuning of the Alpha moped

This process will require more knowledge and skills than unscrewing and screwing the motor. Starting with the installation of a larger volume cylinder-piston group, notice how small the inlet hole is. The heart of the engine can now pump more mixture, but it does not get it. The intake characteristics need to be improved. You don’t have to immediately buy another block head, but use a cutter to distribute the inlet hole from 12 millimeters to at least 16.

An example of increasing the diameter of a roller cutter

The carburetor now limits the power supply. For engine capacity 68-83 cc. It is optimal to install a carburetor with a diffuser size of 17.5 mm. The carburetor and the cylinder head are connected by the intake manifold. All the fuss about increasing the flow of the mixture will be in vain if the collector remains the same. The air filter can be left standard. In a four-stroke engine the filter is important, but not as important as in a two-stroke. The main thing is that stones do not fly directly into the engine.

Types of wheels

Scooter wheels are not only rubber, but also tires and rims. This also includes:

Scooter wheels, the price of which varies depending on the model and year of manufacture, are divided into:

The most common are alloy wheels. Their price is about two thousand rubles. The main material is aluminum.

Scooter wheel. Cast drive

Alloy wheels are installed on scooters made in Europe or China.

The price of a stamped disc is slightly lower. This model is less resistant to temperature changes and corrosion.

Scooter wheel. Stamped disc

An excellent choice for a large wheel is a spoked wheel. Its price is also low. In addition to a number of advantages, they also have a significant drawback: in case of deformation, it will be quite difficult to correct the problem.

Moped wheel with spoked disc

Tuesday, February 2, 2021

Electrical diagram of a Chinese 4t scooter 139qmb

Chinese scooter wiring diagram

Ignition wiring diagram for 4t scooter 139qmb.

In scooters with alarms, problems with ignition occur when the relay responsible for turning off the ignition fails. I had such a case. The scooter stopped starting. Using a brute force method, I replaced everything from the generator to the spark plug and the switch and ignition coil, but the spark never appeared. It turned out that the contacts of the same relay in the signaling system had burned out. To exclude this option, you need to remove one connector (the one with two wires) from the switch. On one wire relative to ground, the high-voltage winding of the generator should ring 350-450 Ohms. On the second one, ground-to-ground should ring when the ignition is off and not ring relative to ground when the ignition is on. This way you will prevent the alarm from breaking when you look for the reason for the lack of spark.

Connection diagram for a generator and a standard voltage regulator for a Chinese scooter

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