The IZH Jupiter-5 motorcycle was produced by the Izhevsk Machine-Building Plant from 1985 to 2008. In the USSR, it was a direct competitor to models from the famous Czech motorcycle manufacturer Java. Many of the cars produced are still on the roads of our country today. They are reliable and unpretentious, however, their technical characteristics and appearance no longer meet modern requirements. Tuning IZ Jupiter-5 helps correct the situation.
You need to redo it wisely
You can find a lot of materials on this topic on the Internet. But they should be treated with great caution. Some recommendations openly contradict common sense; the result of other alterations may be unpredictable. Let's try to help with advice to those who decided to do the tuning of Jupiter 5 with their own hands.
There are several directions for making changes to the design of the popular model:
- Correction of the appearance of the motorcycle.
- Modification or alteration of the suspension.
- Engine tuning.
Let's consider each of them separately.
Correction of motorcycle appearance
Changing your appearance can happen in different ways. Among the most common:
- Fairing installation.
- Replacing the fuel tank.
- Seat modification.
- Motorcycle painting.
Fairing installation. This is the first thing that many lovers of modifying the appearance of motorcycles undertake. Although it is possible to cope with such a task, it should be recognized that the development of such components is a complex task that requires specific skills. The enterprises employ entire groups of specialists engaged in the design of fairings.
Previously, plaza development methods were used for this, but today automatic design systems are used. Finished parts are blown in wind tunnels so that their behavior in air flow can be assessed.
A person who does not have specific skills, despite all his talents, will most likely receive a result of dubious quality. The surface of the fairing will be uneven, which is clearly visible in the 5 photos posted online illustrating Jupiter tuning. The aerodynamics of the motorcycle may not improve, but worsen. Take all this into account before you decide to start making and installing a fairing.
Replacing the fuel tank is a completely justified decision. But you shouldn’t try to make a complex part yourself. This is not an easy task even for enterprises with special technological equipment. It’s smarter and easier to choose a ready-made fuel tank from some other motorcycle model.
Seat modification. You can try to make a change to the standard structure by upholstering it with a new material like leather or a good substitute, and installing a new filler. But the original seat has a significant mass. To reduce the weight of the motorcycle, it makes sense, as in the case of the fuel tank, to select a part from other equipment.
Painting IZ Jupiter-5 is a good thing. Here you can let your imagination run wild. But the best results can be achieved if you know the laws of color combinations or consult with a professional designer. Otherwise, instead of a stylish combination of contrasting colors, you can end up with an eye-catching color scheme.
If you are interested in long-lasting paintwork, first apply a layer of high-quality primer and refuse to use nitro paint, preferring alkyd or polyurethane enamels.
Refinement and modification of suspension
The original suspension of the IZH Jupiter-5 motorcycle is reliable and has good maintainability. It is not difficult to restore it, but better results can be obtained by making some changes to the design.
Installation of adjustable gas shock absorbers. Today on sale it is not difficult to find gas shock absorbers with suitable parameters that can be used in the design of the rear suspension for tuning IZ Jupiter-5. Ideally, you can improve ride comfort and improve the stability of the car on the highway.
Replacing the front fork. This is also possible, but most likely will require reworking its fastening.
Installing another handlebar is not prohibited if it does not worsen the ergonomics of the rider's seat.
shock absorbers from Izha?
puf-fistik, Mane has IZh and Dnipro, when the question arose about replacing the unrepairable shock absorbers of the Dnepr, I glanced sideways at the Izhevskie ones, I thought so, and then I looked and realized that the Izhevskie ones had only the fastening of the lower part of the shock absorber not the same as that of the Dnepr (Ural), and the question disappeared on its own - they will last for a long time (plus if I’m not mistaken - one to one with the Volgovskys - but I could be seriously wrong - because I heard it out of the corner of my ear), BUT!
Let’s say you redo the mount on the pendulum, and then you want the “native” Dnieper ones back (if only because they are designed for the weight of the MT), and then you have to cook the pendulum - it’s not a lot of work, but... in general, it’s a mystery: open the manual for the IZH and we look at the movement of the rear wheel, and then open the manual for the Dnepr and look at the same thing - the answer will draw itself, but to believe all sorts of types (like me) - it’s better to weigh everything, learn to look for theoretical information first, analyze it and then ask based on what you know ...well, then I’ll tell you how it turned out for me (I had 2 pendulums - one of them welded the mounts for Izhevsk shock absorbers, installed...then removed...and then installed a pendulum with Chinese shock absorbers - because Chromie has new ones, and parts of the experimental pendulum went to unweld the pendulum for a wide caliso - buying pipes is more expensive than finding a used pendulum from MT). Why did I remove the IZhevskie ones at home - but this is only one of the unknown number of possible outcomes of such an installation - I’ll say that I had old IZH-Yu-5 shock absorbers, and the springs sank after 2 weeks (again, how to drive... on what roads ...what kind of oil is in the shock absorbers...the deterioration of the shock absorbers themselves in the hardware...well, how fast will you load it onto the rear wheel...in general, count, think and then...ask, otherwise you immediately want to know everything in advance without effort, you can just as well go to to a fortune teller, what would she throw at a question about shock absorbers, and would you believe it? Anyway, the springs of the maine sagged, but what about anyone else - I don’t know, I don’t want to do anything with the pendulum anymore, but what if I hang two bags on sides, and then I’ll sit down myself - although I’m not very heavy, the springs of the IZh “sit down” more than the MT-e... anyway, I realized that in order for me to decide whether to install shock absorbers on the IZH or not, I need 2 pendulums and new shock absorbers IZh and new MTs - install and ride with everyone, and then advise or not, but the experience with old shock absorbers from IZH “discouraged” the desire (to cook, clean, putty, prime and paint - well, everything turned out beautiful) and I install MT Dnepr (made in China or something in that area).
Engine tuning
The two-cylinder two-stroke engine with a working volume of 347.6 cubic meters was installed on the motorcycle. see most often has air cooling. The number of models released in recent years of production that used liquid cooling is negligible. The power that the engine develops is 24 hp. With. – can be increased by making some simple modifications:
- Increase the compression ratio by removing about 1.5 mm from the adjacent plane of the block head. But this will require switching to fuel with an octane rating of AI-95 and making changes to the design of the crank mechanism. First of all, replacing the crankshaft bearings. You will also have to select spark plugs with a different heat rating.
- Replacing crankshaft bearings. There is an opinion that only high-quality imported bearings can cope with increased loads. In fact, domestic developers have installed bearings with a large margin of safety. If you manage to purchase high-quality Russian analogues, they will do the job perfectly. Trying to change the size of the crankshaft journals is simply harmful. The thickness of their hardening layer is small and when more than 1 mm is removed from the surface of the journal, the service life of the part will sharply decrease.
- Replacement or modification of pistons. The stock parts aren't that bad. Don't rush to look for a replacement for them. To increase power, it will be enough to lighten the pistons by removing casting flash and excess material from them. Parts should be carefully adjusted according to weight. It is desirable that the difference does not exceed hundredths of a gram. Such simple engine tuning will be more effective than installing a zero-resistance air filter or a direct-flow muffler. Although it is, of course, possible to install forward flow on IZ Jupiter-5.
- Installing another carburetor. If possible, it's worth shelling out for a good Mikuni carburetor. Don't go for a large diffuser size. The standard diameter of 32 mm will be quite sufficient. But it’s definitely worth removing the protrusions on the intake and exhaust manifolds and polishing the internal channels of these parts. This will not only provide an increase in power, but will also help reduce fuel consumption below five liters.
- Replacement of the ignition system. Installing BSZ on IZ Jupiter-5 only makes sense if you intend to use imported components. Most likely, the quality of domestic components will reduce all the advantages of the contactless ignition system to zero and the rework will not give the desired result.
Do not forget that increased power will improve the acceleration dynamics of the motorcycle, but will not provide a significant increase in speed. To increase speed, you will have to change the transmission gear ratios, selecting different sprockets for the gearbox and rear wheel.
Shock absorbers IZH and the like - design and repair.
IZh shock absorbers are almost no different in design from the rear shock absorbers of other domestic motorcycles, with the exception of some small details, and therefore this article will also be useful to owners of motorcycles of other domestic models. And this article will describe in detail the design, maintenance and repair of Izhevsk rear shock absorbers, and I hope this article will be useful to beginners who own not only an IZH motorcycle, but also any other domestic bike.
The main advantage of shock absorbers (see photo 1) of Izhevsk or other domestic motorcycles is that these shock absorbers have a collapsible design, which means they are repairable and, with proper care, almost eternal. And new types of shock absorbers (for example, gas) which many have begun to install on IZhi, Java, and other domestic motorcycle equipment, although they are more advanced and comfortable shock absorbers, they are not collapsible (most models), and therefore are not repairable.
As was said just above, many of the more modern gas shock absorbers do not have a collapsible design, which means repairs will not be so easy, and sometimes even impossible, for beginners. In addition, most gas shock absorbers are produced in China and the quality (and resource) of many products leaves much to be desired.
And therefore, I think the good old models of Soviet-made motorcycle shock absorbers will remain relevant for a long time and will serve faithfully for many years, of course, with timely maintenance and repairs. But before moving on to repairing Izh shock absorbers and other similar domestic products, it will be useful to familiarize yourself with their structure, since knowledge of the device will make maintenance and repair much easier even for a beginner.
Well, anyone who knows how a domestic collapsible motorcycle spring-hydraulic shock absorber works can simply skip a few steps by scrolling the mouse wheel and go directly below to disassembly and repair.
Shock absorbers IZH - device.
Spring-hydraulic shock absorbers of Izhey, Ural, Dnepr and other domestic motorcycles have the same operating principle and almost the same design, see the photo above and the figure below. These shock absorbers also have a simple cam-type control device, which uses a movable cam and a fixed cam. For convenience, a lever with a ball at the end (indicated by a yellow arrow in the photo above) is attached to the movable cam of Izhevsk shock absorbers of the latest models (IZH Planet 5, Jupiter 5).
When the lever with the ball is turned, the movable cam moves relative to the stationary cam and thus increases or decreases the rigidity of the rear suspension of the motorcycle (depending on the condition of the roads and the load of the motorcycle). On older types of Izh shock absorbers (and on shock absorbers of other models of domestic motorcycles), there is no lever with a ball, and a special crescent-shaped wrench is used to move the movable cam and adjust the compression of the springs.
By the way, on the latest models of domestic motorcycles (for example, heavy motorcycles Ural, Dnepr), the shock absorbers of the latest models have a slightly improved design to increase ride comfort, and this design (shown in detail below in Figure 2) is similar to the design of the shock absorbers of VAZ and Moskvich cars.
Of course, the design of domestic shock absorbers is far from perfect and is inferior to most shock absorbers of foreign motorcycles, but I repeat once again that the main advantage of domestic shock absorbers is their easy maintainability and low cost of spare parts.
The basis of the design is a cylinder with a piston, to which a rod is attached, and on which the weight of the motorcycle presses. The weight of the motorcycle is resisted by springs and a hydraulic shock absorber system, which is filled with oil. Of course, the main purpose of the hydraulic system is to dampen vibrations of the rear suspension, but still the hydraulics help the springs a little to withstand the weight of the bike, cargo and driver and passenger.
A more detailed design of domestic shock absorbers of modern Izh, Ural or Dnepr motorcycles is shown in Figure 2 and they are similar in design, with the exception of some small details, and also differ only in the amount of stroke of the rod and the volume of fluid poured into the hydraulics (by the way, the shock absorbers of some domestic cars).
Shock absorbers of domestic motorcycles and some cars: A - compression stroke, B - rebound stroke. 1 - lower mounting eye, 3 - recoil valve nut, 4 - piston ring, 5 - restrictor plate, 6 - bypass valve spring, 7 - bypass valve plate, 8 - compression valve cage, 9 - compression valve spring, 10 - valve plate compression, 11 — compression valve disks, 12 — compression valve body, 13 — rod, 14 — cylinder, 15 — piston, 16 — rebound valve disks, 17 — rebound valve spring.
As was said just above, the main part is a cylindrical tank 2 (see Fig. 2) which is filled with shock absorber oil and to which the bottom and ring 1 for the rubber silent block are welded from below. A working cylinder 14 is inserted inside the main reservoir, and a plug 12 is pressed into its lower part, which serves as a housing for the compression valves. Well, inside the working cylinder 14, when the suspension is operating, a piston 15 moves, which is fixed in the lower part of the rod 13, and the upper part of the rod is connected to the motorcycle frame through a silent block.
The piston has 2 valves: the recoil valve is mounted at the bottom of the piston and the bypass valve is mounted on top of the piston. The bypass valve has a plate 7, which is pressed from above by a spring 6 and a restrictive plate 5, which is pressed against the piston 15.
The recoil valve consists of disks 16, which are pressed against the internal holes in the piston using a spring 17, the second end of which rests on the surface of the nut 3. And the compression valve has a plate 10 in which there are holes, as well as disks 11, spring 9, cage 8 and a housing 12 inserted into the bottom of the hydraulic cylinder 14.
Well, to seal the outer surface of the piston 15, an o-ring 4 is used. At the top, the working hydraulic cylinder is closed with a reservoir nut, which has a sealing device.
Work of shock absorbers Izh, Ural, Dnepr and the like.
The performance (for damping vibrations of the rear suspension) of the spring-hydraulic shock absorber of domestic motorcycles (and cars) is based on the use of hydraulic resistance, which occurs when hydraulic fluid (oil) flows from one cylinder cavity to another through special holes, which are closed at the right time by compression valves and returns.
When operating a motorcycle and when the rear wheel hits some obstacle (road unevenness), the motorcycle’s pendulum moves upward along with the shock absorber, and from this the rod, together with the piston fixed below, moves down in the hydraulic cylinder and at the same time a compression stroke occurs (see Fig. 4 a) . In this case, hydraulic fluid pressure is created under piston 15 and this fluid (shock absorber oil), overcoming the elastic force of spring 6, flows through the bypass valve into the cavity above the piston.
Well, at the same time, part of the liquid, bending the inner edges of the compression valve disks 11, flows into the main reservoir 2 (that is, into the shock absorber body 2). Well, if the compression stroke is carried out quite smoothly, then the hydraulic fluid pressure will no longer be enough to bend the inner edge of the disks 11 and this means that the liquid in the reservoir 2 of the housing will flow only through a special cutout of the upper throttle disk 11 of the compression valve.
After passing the unevenness, the rear wheel and the pendulum of the motorcycle are already returning back (that is, moving down) and the piston and rod are already moving upward and at the same time a recoil stroke occurs (it is shown in Figure 4 b) and at the same time, the pressure of the hydraulic fluid (above the piston) bends the outer edges of discs 16 of the recoil valve. In this case, the liquid already flows into the cylinder cavity under the piston.
Also, due to the decrease in pressure under the piston, at the same time part of the liquid from reservoir 2 (bending the compression valve disks 11 from the outside) also fills the space above the piston. Well, when the rear wheel and the motorcycle's pendulum move smoothly downward, hydraulic fluid passes through the side cutouts of the throttle disc of the recoil valve. It should be noted that the resistance during the compression stroke is several times less than during the recoil stroke, and this is useful for reducing the impact force on the motorcycle frame when the wheel hits an obstacle.
Shock absorbers IZH - disassembly and repair.
With intensive use of the motorcycle, some parts wear out and require replacement or repair. The most common malfunction is loss of seal tightness and leakage of hydraulic fluid. Well, when the fluid level in the shock absorber reservoirs drops, there can be no question of their normal operation (damping vibrations).
And therefore, when leaks are detected, you should not only add oil, but, of course, also replace worn (cracked) seals and other worn parts that can only be detected by disassembling the shock absorber and visually inspecting the internals. Well, how to disassemble IZH shock absorbers and the like will be described below.
Shock absorbers IZH - disassembly.
In order to disassemble the shock absorbers, of course, they must first be removed from the motorcycle. There is nothing complicated about this, we install the motorcycle on the central stand, or a motorcycle stand and unscrew the nuts on the frame and pendulum, remove the shock absorbers from the studs welded to the frame and pendulum.
Next, to disassemble the shock absorbers, you will need to compress the springs and remove the two support half rings. There are special devices for compressing shock absorber springs, for example, as in the photo on the left, or a homemade device described in this article.
But having an assistant, you can remove the support half rings by inserting two corners between the upper coils of the springs, resting the shock absorber itself on the floor and then pressing the corners down and compressing the spring. Well, at this time the assistant, using tweezers or pliers with narrow noses, removes the persistent half rings.
Having removed the half rings, the spring from the shock absorber, and the movable cam of the spring compression regulator, then you need to clamp the shock absorber in a vice, by the lower body of the silent block (we use cardboard spacers for the jaws of the vice) and then, using a 27 key, unscrew the upper nut 7 (see the picture above) of the body stuffing box assembly (on some shock absorbers a special wrench is required).
Now you should drain the oil and carefully (since there are still oil residues) pull the shock absorber piston outward by the rod.
Defects of parts of Izh shock absorbers and the like.
We inspect all the parts and the rod, there should be no scratches on it, otherwise the new oil seal will not last long, and the oil will escape through deep scratches or wear, if any. If there are small scratches, it is advisable to remove them by sanding 1000 - sandpaper and polishing on a felt wheel. If there are deep scratches or signs of wear (wear), the rod must be replaced.
Large wear on the rod usually appears when the seals are not replaced in time and dust sticks to the rod, which is constantly wet from oil, and thus the dust, mixed with oil, is an abrasive that wears out even the hard surface of the chrome-plated rod.
You can detect severe wear by touch and visually, and not severe wear can be determined using a micrometer by measuring the rod in the area of the oil seal with it, and then for comparison in the area of the piston (or in the area of the silent block body. And by the difference in diameters it is easy to detect even the smallest wear .
When the wear is up to 0.10 mm, the oil seal will still retain oil due to the elasticity of the working edge, but if the wear is greater, then it is advisable to replace the rod. Finding a new shock absorber rod for an Izh (and other motorcycles) on sale is not so easy, but a new rod can be ordered by a turner to be turned from hard and high-quality steel (for example 40X13) and after turning, it is advisable to chrome the new rod at the nearest factory (read about chrome plating here).
Some may say that why such troubles, you can buy a new shock absorber - of course you can, but firstly, a normal quality shock absorber costs money, and secondly, shock absorbers for older models of motorcycles may not be found on sale. Well, there is one more important argument - turning work on the production of new shock absorber rods, plus a set of new oil seals, can cost significantly less than buying new shock absorbers.
There is no point in looking at the seals, since once the shock absorber has been disassembled, a new seal should be installed anyway (after all, the kit is not expensive). To replace the seals, you should unscrew the rod nut, having first clamped the rod by the upper body of the silent block in a vice) and then remove the piston with valves, the stuffing box housing, the oil seal itself and the rubber bumper buffer from the rod.
Well, in order not to get confused later when assembling the shock absorber, where which part was, you should simply photograph the parts before disassembly, and when disassembling, place the parts on a clean sheet of paper in the same order as the parts were installed on the rod.
We carefully inspect all parts for wear and before assembly, be sure to wash them in gasoline, and of course, we also wash the hydraulic cylinders with gasoline, since traces of wear always remain at their bottom along with dirty shock absorber oil.
Having replaced the worn oil seals, we reassemble the shock absorber in the reverse order, and before screwing in the seal housing plug, do not forget to fill in 0.075 liters of MGP-10 shock absorber fluid or spindle oil.
But now it is not so easy to buy these oils of normal quality, and therefore I advise you to find an analogue of these oils from foreign manufacturers. By the way, foreign manufacturers also have synthetic-based shock absorber fluids, and therefore the oil service life is significantly longer than that of our spindle, or the same MGP-10.
And the last tip: a felt seal in the form of a washer is installed above the seals of almost all Soviet shock absorbers. So, if you want to significantly extend the life of a dry shock absorber and enjoy the absence of oil leaks for a long time, then I advise you to remove the felt seal and instead cut a thick leather seal of the same size.
When drilling the inner hole in the leather seal, ensure that the new leather seal fits snugly onto the stem. And by assembling your shock absorbers with leather seals, your shock absorbers will remain dry for a long time, even if the main rubber seal wears a little. After all, the skin tends to swell a little from oil, which means the density between the hole in the seal and the surface of the rod will be sufficient for a long time.
And finally, a list of parts for IZh shock absorbers or similar domestic shock absorbers of other motorcycles, which may differ in minor details, but the design and operation principle of any domestic spring-hydraulic shock absorber is almost the same.
- Silent block upper and lower.
- support half rings (2 pcs.).
- glasses (casings) were installed on older models.
- support washer.
- rubber buffer.
- shock absorber spring.
- stuffing box (stuffing box housing).
- felt sealing insert (it is better to install a leather one).
- rubber seal.
- hydraulic reservoir oil seal (rubber ring).
- spacer sleeve.
- shock absorber rod bushing.
- the rod itself with the tip.
- rebound spring.
- hydraulic valve limiter.
- valve disc spring.
- the rebound and compression valves themselves.
- shock absorber piston
- throttle disc.
- valve plate.
- bushings (2 pcs).
- spring.
- rod nut
- regulator
- shock absorber body.
- shock absorber hydraulic cylinder.
- pin.
- valve.
- lower valve body.
I hope that after reading this article, even novice motorcyclists will be able to independently repair the IZh shock absorber, or similar shock absorbers of other domestic motorcycles, good luck to everyone.
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