Do-it-yourself repair and modification of the VAZ steering rack


In VAZ 2109 cars, the steering rack is responsible for controlling the rotation of the wheels, converting the rotation of the steering wheel into the translational movement of the steering rod. Wear or breakage of parts leads to an increase in play, as a result of which the car’s handling deteriorates, the wear of car tires from uncontrolled “yaw” increases, and the movement of the car itself becomes dangerous on multidirectional turns. The owner of a domestic passenger car will be able to repair the VAZ 2109 steering rack with his own hands, guided by these detailed instructions and a diagram of this unit.
  • 2 Symptoms of malfunction
  • 3 Removing and disassembling the steering rack in a VAZ 2109 car
  • 4 Repair of the steering rack in a VAZ 2109 car

    4.1 Video: repair of the steering rack of VAZ 2108, 2109, 2113, 2114, 2115

Repair

The first thing you will need to carry out your own repairs is a repair kit.
They are available at almost any auto parts store. However, we strongly recommend that you buy only high-quality kits so that the result of your DIY repair lasts as long as possible. What you need for work

The proposed kits are incomplete and complete. You will definitely need the following kit components:

  • Needle bearing;
  • A pair of rubber seals for the bushing;
  • Support sleeve made of plastic;
  • Set of gaskets;
  • Spring;
  • Retaining rings;
  • Support bearing;
  • Drive gear;
  • Boot cover;
  • Rail;
  • Set of ties for the boot.

Repair kit Now that the kit is ready, the tools are available, and there is enough free time, you can get to work.

  1. First, remove the boot, end caps and stops. As you disassemble elements, even the smallest and insignificant at first glance, be sure to evaluate their current condition. If necessary, all worn-out elements will be replaced with new ones taken from the repair kit.
  2. Using an octagon, unscrew the screw plugs, which will allow you to remove the springs, retaining rings, and thrust bushings.
  3. Remove the bearing and check if it has any play. The repair kit includes a new bearing, so if the old component is in satisfactory condition, it is better to replace it immediately. It’s not for nothing that you took on such a complex process to get everything done 50%.
  4. Remove and inspect the drive gear. Next, you can completely remove the rail itself.
  5. Be sure to replace the support shaft bushing, not forgetting about the rubber bands. They are also included in the kit.
  6. Take your time to remove the rubber bands from the sleeve. First, insert the element into the crankcase, after which you can cut off the elastic with scissors or a sharp knife.
  7. The most difficult step is replacing the needle bearing. To remove it, you will need a special key. But you can do without it. In this case, arm yourself with a 1.5 mm drill bit and a drill. Using a drill, make a hole in such a way as to loosen the end of the bearing. Use a punch to knock out the old bearing from the crankcase.
  8. Before installing the new needle bearing, be sure to thoroughly clean the steering rack housing of accumulated debris and steel shavings from drilling.
  9. The hole made cannot be left. To eliminate it, you can mix metal filings with superglue. This mixture will harden quickly and give an excellent result.
  10. Lubricate literally everything that can be lubricated in the steering rack assembly. Experts advise using Litol 24 or other lubricants of similar quality. It wouldn't hurt to lubricate the CV joints.
  11. Reassemble the unit by following the reverse sequence of dismantling.

If you don’t have a key to remove the needle, repairing the steering rack yourself allows you to significantly save on replacement, plus gain a lot of experience in performing far from the simplest work related to your VAZ 2109. But you can do it easier, without taking any risks, by contacting a trusted car service center.

Unit in a vice

Checking status

Having completed the repair, you should not think that now the steering rack will serve tens of thousands of kilometers and will no longer cause you trouble. Like many other components, the condition of the rack must be periodically monitored.

What to look for

Your actions

Mounting nuts and bolts

These fasteners are subject to vibration after repair as they are used. Therefore, it is recommended to check and tighten them every 250-300 kilometers.

You can check it a little less often, approximately every 500-1000 kilometers, depending on the operating conditions of your car. Due to different quality, some anthers can last quite a long time, while others will require replacement after 10 thousand kilometers. The choice is yours which parts to use

The rack itself should be constantly monitored

Listen to the behavior of the steering mechanism, pay attention to the above signs of malfunction. As part of a scheduled technical inspection, be sure to include a check of the steering racks in the list of activities.

The repair cannot be called complicated, but it takes a lot of time

Plus, it is extremely important to perform all operations as carefully and efficiently as possible. Otherwise, the result will not last long and you will soon have to interfere with the design of the VAZ 2109 steering unit again

Repair kit contents

If the question you are interested in is “which one to choose,” then there will be practically no recommendations here, because the design of all mechanisms in VAZ car models is almost identical. So:

  • Just remember that you should beware of counterfeits when purchasing.
  • And one more thing you should definitely know before purchasing a steering rack repair kit is the fact that they come in different configurations
  • The simplest and, therefore, the cheapest repair kit includes only a washer, nut, and bearing, as well as fluoroplastic bushings, since bushings are consumables
  • The average-priced kit is the same kit, only complete with all bearings and shafts
  • And finally, the most expensive configuration option, which is used to perform major repairs, is equipped directly with a new steering rack

We have completed a detailed diagnosis of the problems, there will be another article about detailed repairs, so as not to search for it, it’s better to watch the repair video.

Sources:

https://luxvaz.ru/vaz-2109/366-regulirovka-rulevoy-reyki.html https://auto-self.ru/regulirovka-rulevoy-reyki-na-vaz-2109/ https://expertvaz.ru /2109/rulevaya-rejka-regulirovka.html https://nadouchest.ru/kak-podtjanut-rulevuju-rejku-vaz-2109/ https://masteravaza.ru/rulevoe/rulevaya-rejka-rulevoe/boltaetsya-rulevaya- rejka-na-vaz-2109-855

Signs of breakdown

By means of steering racks, rotational movements from the steering wheel through a rack and pinion mechanism are transmitted to the rotary levers, which turn the front wheels with rods.

If you find one of the symptoms listed below on your car, be sure to conduct a full diagnosis of the condition of the unit, and then repair it.

Signs of a faulty steering rack include:

  • A grinding noise is observed in the rack area when the steering wheel is rotated;
  • The steering wheel periodically sticks;
  • Lubricant begins to leak from the seals;
  • The steering wheel has noticeable play.

These symptoms may also indicate problems in other components of the steering mechanism, but first you must check the condition of the rack, disassemble it and decide whether to replace or repair it.


Node diagram

Fault diagnosis, initial inspection

Planned maintenance work will help significantly reduce the risk of an unexpected breakdown, but an unexpected situation can occur at any time. So what signs in the car’s behavior indicate a malfunction of the control mechanism?

  1. Rotation of the steering wheel has become difficult (tight turn) or it even gets stuck.
  2. Large steering play.
  3. When the steering wheel is rotated, something knocks or a grinding sound is heard in the rack area.
  4. Upon direct inspection, grease leaking from under the seals is noticeable.

Of course, the problem may arise in other elements and components, but, as a rule, the inspection begins with the steering rack. We are facing replacement of the steering rack of the VAZ 2109, or only repair of the rack - a detailed inspection of the structure will show. True, for this it will have to be completely dismantled. The process is not very complicated, but you should have plenty of time and patience to carry out such work. The repair will have to be carried out under the raised front end, so take extra care to securely secure the car with a jack and shoe. Although you can get by with an inspection hole or overpass.

Replacing the steering column of a VAZ 2107

Replacing a steering column is a rather difficult task, but it can be done independently if you have some experience in car repair. You will need the following tools:

  • Wrenches 17 (socket and open-end).
  • Socket heads for 17 and 30.
  • Handle with ratchet.
  • Mount.
  • Hammer.
  • Collar.

The column is removed in the following order:

  1. Disconnect the battery.
  2. Remove the steering wheel.
  3. Remove the steering shaft housing.
  4. Remove the wire block from the ignition switch.
  5. Remove the ignition switch.
  6. Remove the steering column switches.
  7. Remove the steering shaft clamped in the column.
  8. Using a 30mm socket and a powerful wrench, unscrew the steering column mounting nut. The tightening force here is significant, so the knob must be a fairly long lever. If you can’t unscrew it, you can lengthen the knob by putting a piece of pipe on it.
  9. Unscrew the 3 bolts securing the column to the body. The procedure is not easy - the distance between the parts and the body is too small, the bolts are difficult to keep from turning. A handle with a ratchet will come in handy here, which will speed up the process.
  10. Remove the column from the shaft. To do this, you need to knock the column off the tie rod splines using a pry bar. This must be done in jerks, resting your feet on the body.
  11. Unscrew and remove the shaft seal installed at the bottom of the column.

After dismantling the old column, it is necessary to clean the seat from dirt. Before installing a new column, you should check the condition of its hinge joints and needle bearings. If everything is in order, you can begin installation, which is done in the reverse order of removal.

When installing a new VAZ 2107 steering column, you must pay special attention to ensure that all fastening bolts and nuts are well tightened. Considering how important this unit is for driving a car, play, and even more so, slippage of the steering column splines can lead to tragic consequences

When installing the steering wheel, pay attention to the position of its spokes. After completing the installation of parts and connecting the wire block to the ignition switch, you can connect the battery

Column replacement completed

After completing the installation of parts and connecting the wire block to the ignition switch, you can connect the battery. Column replacement is complete.

Loosening the thrust nut

Often the steering rack knocks due to the loosening of the stop nut, which serves to adjust its movement inside the crankcase. The more it is tightened, the tighter the steering wheel will rotate, and vice versa. In other words, a nut that is loosened more than expected causes play to occur between the rack and the stop. This is what causes the knocking.

It is not difficult to check that the steering rack is knocking precisely for this reason, but for this you will need a special octagonal wrench for 17. You can buy it at any car store. Now you need to find the location of the nut. And it is located on the lower part of the rack housing in the area of ​​the vacuum brake booster. It is usually protected by a plastic or rubber cap that will need to be removed. When this is done, try using a wrench to tighten the nut by turning it counterclockwise. A normal tightening is considered when the nut is screwed in all the way and then loosened by 24 degrees. This ensures a gap between it and the stop equal to 12 mm.

Eliminating backlash

Of course, major repairs are not necessary in every case, and replacement of component parts is also not always necessary, because:

  • On the VAZ 2109, the steering rack is adjustable, and if you know how to tighten the steering rack mechanism, then you can remove steering knocks without any financial investment at all
  • This is possible, of course, if the knocking is caused by operational or factory control play
  • To adjust, you should use a trestle or inspection hole, find the adjusting nut under a layer of dirt, then use a special wrench “17” to tighten it

We disassemble the rack

When you have eliminated the play, but the knocking has not disappeared, then the steering rack on the VAZ 2109 must be disassembled and repaired:

  • Repairing the rack yourself will not be difficult, of course, if you know in what sequence the operations need to be performed
  • First, we remove the steering rack, and if everything is in order with the rods, then it is not necessary to remove them, just unscrew them from the unit and that’s it
  • Then we clamp it in a vice or in a special device for repair.
  • And then remove the clamps securing the protective cap, boot, right support and spacer ring
  • Subsequently, all other parts are removed (photo with diagram below), including complete pressing out of the bearings
  • Then the parts should be cleaned of dirt as thoroughly as possible, followed by washing them in kerosene
  • And after cleaning all the parts, they should be very carefully inspected for signs of tears or other damage.
  • If small scuffs can be easily removed with sandpaper, all heavily worn parts, and especially damaged ones, must be replaced
  • The same approach applies to bearing troubleshooting.
  • In their particular case, if there is the slightest doubt about the performance of these devices, parts should be replaced immediately
  • You should also understand that tightening the steering rack itself, the procedure, in principle, is not a difficult operation to perform with your own hands
  • But disassembling the steering wheel, and even more so replacing it, may require special skills from you; in addition, you will need competent instructions
  • When you have absolutely no time or desire to carry out such operations yourself, or you do not want to delve into all the intricacies of this process, then the best option for you would be to perform all repair work in a specialized automobile workshop
  • You, of course, understand that the price of specialist services will cost more than self-repair
  • Moreover, the amount of the invoice that you will receive may vary greatly.
  • For example, carrying out troubleshooting is one cost, but a complete repair is a completely different one.

Schematic structure of the steering rack, it clearly shows what is removed and then put back on

  • It is worth noting that the steering rack is not the cheapest component of a car, so few people dare to replace the whole thing right away.
  • Everyone starts by trying to repair the existing device.
  • It happens that it is enough to simply adjust it so that the malfunction disappears, or perform a partial repair by replacing the bearings
  • Of course, the diagnostic procedure, as well as subsequent repairs, is impossible without disassembling
  • Only by disassembling the steering rack will you get a complete picture of the condition of its parts, which parts require improvement (grinding, for example), and which should definitely be replaced
  • Repair in almost any case will be much cheaper than a complete replacement
  • And if you repair the rack yourself, you will also save on the cost of auto mechanic services
  • To carry out independent repairs, as has been mentioned more than once, you will need a repair kit, specific keys, as well as a set of bearings and grease.
  • Not a lot of money is spent on purchasing components
  • However, if you have replaced all the bearings, as well as seals and lubrication, and still have problems with the operation of the machine, then you will still need the services of specialists to determine the exact cause of the failure or replace the “serious” (major) components
  • The most remarkable thing is that in the conditions of the modern total “deficit” of finance, a complete replacement of the entire unit is resorted to only in extreme cases, when there is nothing left to repair in the old one

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Tighten the Steering Rack of VAZ 2109

We correctly pull the control rack on a VAZ-2114 with our own hands: tips and the process itself

No one disputes the fact that a working steering wheel in any car guarantees not only the safety of the driver and passengers, but also uninterrupted operation in principle. Regardless of the type of drive, be it worm gear, rack gear or non-assisted, they all require a lot of maintenance. The VAZ-2114 and all second-generation Samara generators received a fairly reliable and familiar mechanism for managing repairs and adjustments. It does not have hydraulic booster, so it is easier to maintain and adjust.

Why pull the rail on a VAZ-2114

Diagnostics of rail control and control mechanisms

Before you tighten up the control bus on your VAZ-2114, you should consider the preconditions that will tell you when it's time to start repairs or lifting.

First of all, this is a free game.

Basically, AvtoVAZ guarantees a fairly long service life of the steering mechanism, namely ten years . However, you must understand that these are ideal working conditions. This assumes a smooth asphalt road, a constant supply of high-quality lubricant in the trunk pan and a gentle driving style.

Under normal operating conditions, this period is practically unattainable. It doesn’t matter the roads, the quality of spare parts and the often harsh conditions of the car lead to the fact that the mechanism makes itself felt much earlier.

The first symptoms of a faulty steering mechanism on a VAZ-2114

The first symptoms of a rail malfunction or the need for tightening are obvious:

How to tighten the steering rack of VAZ 2115,2114,2113,2199,2109,2108

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How to tighten the steering rack on a VAZ. Nuances

to tighten the VAZ steering rack

2110 you will need a special octahedron key “in 17”, for a more modern one.

  1. Knock in the hood in the area of ​​the engine shield, especially when driving unevenly.

On a VAZ-2114, knocking when driving on uneven sections of the road can occur due to a loose nut on the bolt that compresses the cardan clamp

The latter can be considered a glaring fault and can cause serious traffic problems.

In this case, most likely the situation cannot be corrected by an elevator, but in order to draw conclusions earlier, you can try to fix it. There are two ways to do this. both on the car and with the rack removed.

Complete disassembly of the steering rack and replacement of the repair kit

In the second case, adjustment is made after replacing the repair kit and completely repairing the mechanism. We will try to overcome a little blood and simply adjust the gap when the strut is engaged , thus eliminating play and knocking.

We pull the VAZ-2114 rack with our own hands

Most often, everything is Raising the stand. This is just selecting the engagement game and setting up the helmet game . If the wear of the mechanism parts (bushings, the gearbox itself, gears, seals and saw blades) is critical, repair and installation of the kit should not be avoided. However, the easiest way to check this is. pull the rail directly onto the car.

To adjust the strut, you will need a special wrench that is inserted into the adjusting nut in the steering gear housing. You can make this key yourself, but it is sold in any store, costs a pretty penny, and never hurts to have it in your toolbox. In addition, this will greatly facilitate the work not only when adjusting, but also when removing the rail if necessary.

The VAZ-2114 rail is adjusted as follows:

  1. It is recommended to install the machine either on an overpass or on an elevator. You can adjust the guide from under the hood, but it will barely work.

Place the car on elevators or overpasses

Checking the steering wheel and tying the rod

Tighten the adjusting nut using a special wrench

Video about adjusting the steering rack

When choosing a backlash, we do not hide the tool, but conduct a test drive, during which we evaluate the operation of the steering mechanism. If the steering wheel rotates freely but is not there, the adjustment can be considered complete. If the steering wheel is too tight, it is better to loosen the adjusting nut by turning it a few degrees counterclockwise.

Conclusion

The steering rack requires no less care than the steering ends

Removing the steering wheel.

Probably one of the most significant elements in the steering circuit is the steering wheel. The steering wheel is usually removed to replace the shaft and contact ring of the horn switch.

Next, we will tell you how to remove the steering wheel and provide explanations with pictures. So, the tools you will need are a 24mm socket with an extension and a screwdriver. Before starting work, set the front wheels straight, and do not change position until the steering wheel is in its original place.

Pry up the decorative trim on the horn switch with your hand.

Take it off

I would like to draw your attention to the fact that when removing the lining you should be careful not to break it

The steering wheel hub and steering shaft should be marked so that their relative position can be determined in the future. The exception would be the case of a complete replacement of the steering wheel.

Attach the socket with extension and unscrew the steering wheel fastening nut

Disconnect the electrical wire to avoid damaging the steering wheel when removing it. Using a sharp blow from bottom to top, remove the steering wheel from the splines.

Unscrew the mounting screws and remove the horn contact ring.

Some batches of cars were produced with slight differences, such as a double cavity on the steering wheel hub, and a double spline at the upper end of the shaft. All this is to place the steering wheel in a strictly defined position.

After the steering wheel has been installed in place, you must ensure that it is in the correct position on the shaft. When the car is moving in a straight line, the steering arms must be in a strictly horizontal position. This is necessary for clear automatic switching off of the direction indicator.

When finally installing the steering wheel, tighten the steering wheel mounting nut in this position.

Hello, in this article you will learn how to replace the steering wheel on VAZ 2101, 2102, 2103, 2104, 2105, 2106, 2107 cars. Of course, removing the steering wheel is not a common operation, but it still happens that you have to remove the steering wheel to restore the audio signal wiring , or to replace the old steering wheel with a new one when it is very worn out, although now the steering wheel is more often changed to a “sports” one. To replace the steering wheel you will need a 24mm socket and a slotted screwdriver. Before you start replacing the steering wheel, you need to align the wheels and steering wheel straight, this is necessary so that when installing the steering wheel in place, you do not lose its normal position. Now take a slotted screwdriver and remove the plug in the center of the steering wheel

After this, use a 24mm socket to unscrew the nut securing the steering wheel to the steering shaft

But you shouldn’t completely unscrew the nut right away; first knock the steering wheel off the steering shaft, and then unscrew the nut completely, otherwise you can get injured when knocking the steering wheel out

Installing the steering wheel is done in the reverse order, the main thing is to make sure that the protrusions on the steering shaft lining align with the slots on the steering wheel

Avtochanel

From this article you will learn how to remove the steering wheel on a VAZ 2101-2107 car, what tools are required for this, and most importantly, how to avoid injury while carrying out this work.

Removing and installing the steering wheel can be done for several reasons:

  • replacing a conventional steering wheel with a new or sports version
  • After adjusting the wheel alignment angles (wheel alignment), you need to set the steering wheel to the correct position
  • it is necessary to remove the steering wheel to gain access to replacing other parts, for example, steering column switches

The procedure for removing the steering wheel:

  • Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery so that when working with the steering wheel you do not accidentally turn on the sound signal.
  • Use a screwdriver to remove the plug in the center of the steering wheel. (Fig. 1)
  • Using a 24mm socket wrench, unscrew the steering wheel mounting nut. (Fig. 2)
  • Remove the steering wheel. (Fig. 3)

Types of control systems

The steering design of modern cars can be of two types:

Almost all models of classic VAZs are equipped with the first. It is called a worm because the main element of the mechanism here is the so-called worm, which is a kind of continuation of the steering shaft. It is in constant engagement with a roller mounted on the shaft of the bipod, which, in fact, transmits force to the steering rods. This design allows the wheels to be turned at a large angle and perfectly dampens shock and vibration coming from the wheels.

Front-wheel drive VAZs of the Samara and Lada families are equipped with rack and pinion steering mechanisms. Their mechanism has a different design. Everything is a little simpler here. The end of the steering shaft is equipped with a gear, which, pressing against a special rack that has teeth on the upper side, forces it to move in a horizontal direction. This design is simple, compact and highly reliable.

Which steering rack to install on a VAZ 2109, when to replace it?

The original number of the steering rack is 21080-3400012-10, the average price is 3462 rubles.

  • Trialli CR 108 — 2451 rub.
  • Pilenga SR-P 1141 — 2436 rub.
  • BM SR 2108 — 2887 rub.

Replacement frequency - check at every scheduled maintenance. The average service life is over 100 thousand km.

First of all, we lift the front of the car to achieve full lift of both front wheels. Anti-slope bars should be placed under the rear wheels.

Remove the front wheels. At the same time, we check the condition of the anthers on the steering fingers.

Now you need to gain access to the steering rack mount. It is necessary to disconnect the gas adsorber, as well as the alarm siren, if available and installed in this particular location. We remove the terminal with the wires from the adsorber, and, as far as the hoses allow, we move them to the side.

After removing these components, access to the steering rack mount is free.

If you install a used steering rack, you should pay attention to the condition of the boot boot and steering rod silent blocks. Now set the steering wheel to a neutral position (when the wheels look straight)

Using a spanner wrench or a head to the universal joint, unscrew the bolt from the splined joint, which is located near the pedal assembly

Now set the steering wheel to a neutral position (when the wheels look straight). Using a spanner wrench or a socket to the universal joint, unscrew the bolt from the splined joint, which is located near the pedal assembly.

We clean the tie rod attachment to the car suspension struts from dirt.

After the fastening units are cleaned, use pliers to remove the locking pin from the joint.

Unscrew the steering tip nut.

Next we install the puller.

Tighten the puller nut and gently tap the puller from underneath with a hammer until the tie rod pins come out of the cone joint.

Now, back under the hood, you need to unscrew the nuts on the steering rack.

Using a screwdriver, pull the steering rack off its mounts.

We pull it out through the window in the wheel well.

Let's start installing the steering rack. In order to catch the required middle position of the steering rack, you must first install the steering pins in the racks, after which we install the shaft on the splines in the cabin. The steering shaft in the cabin has free movement, making it easy to install it in the required position. Be careful, there is a groove in the steering rack for the clamp bolt, and you need to install it so that the clamp is opposite the groove, this will allow you to install the bolt back without any extra effort.

Now we assemble the entire steering unit in reverse order.

More details about the rack and pinion mechanism

At first glance, the design of the rack and pinion mechanism may seem quite complicated. If we take into account only its main parts, not counting the steering wheel and column, then there will be more than twenty of them. The rack itself looks like it has been ground down to half the shaft.

On its upper part there are longitudinal teeth that engage with the drive gear. The rack is enclosed in an aluminum housing filled with a special lubricant. Its central part has holes for attaching the inner tie rod ends. In this place the crankcase has a cut, covered with a rubber boot. Inside, the rail is held in a certain position thanks to a support sleeve, usually made of fluoroplastic. To adjust its mobility, a special stop is used.

As you can see, in fact, there is nothing complicated about the rack and pinion mechanism. If you understand what all the elements are for and how they work, you can service and repair it yourself without any problems.

Removing the steering rack of VAZ 2109, 2110

The car must be immobilized - to do this, it is placed on the handbrake and stops are placed under the wheels.

Next, the front of the car is jacked up on both sides and the front wheels are removed.

Then the bolts securing the ball joints of the mechanism to the steering knuckles are unscrewed. Next, the supports need to be pulled out of their seats; a puller is used for this.

The next step is to unscrew the bolt securing the steering column to the gear shaft of the mechanism. It is located in the cabin near the floor, where the column shaft enters the floor. The bolt is completely unscrewed and removed.

Then you need to unscrew the bolts of the brackets that secure the mechanism to the rear wall. The staples are also removed. After this, you need to pull the mechanism down and onto the engine to remove the gear shaft from its seat in the column shaft.

Having disconnected the mechanism from the steering column, you can remove it through the technological hole in the fender liners through which the steering rods come out.

After removing the steering mechanism, it is clamped in a vice, then the bolts securing the steering rods are unscrewed and they are removed.

Support sleeve

Are the rack and pinions ok? Go ahead. We remove the fluoroplastic bushing from the crankcase. It is because of this that the VAZ-2109 steering rack most often knocks, or rather, because of its wear. If it is worn out or deformed, we replace it immediately, since it costs mere pennies. But it is best to buy not just one, but a repair kit, which also includes a stop with a nut and a spring, as well as a set of seals and gaskets. By replacing the bushing and all these small elements, you will get a completely working steering rack.

Adjustment methods

The steering rack can be adjusted in two ways.

Adjustment method

Peculiarities

If the rack is removed and adjusted, we are most often talking about repairing or replacing the unit with a new one. It is recommended to carry out such settings only in these situations

Without dismantling the unit

This method of adjustment is relevant if it is necessary to tighten the rack slightly, remove play, and get rid of knocking noises. Here it is quite possible to do without dismantling work, that is, to set up the mechanism directly on the car

Malfunctions

There are several typical steering rack malfunctions that VAZ 2109 owners encounter. In some situations, simple adjustments can be done, while in others, more detailed intervention in the design of the unit and its components will be required.

Steering rack breakdowns are as follows:

  • The steering rack fastenings are loose;
  • The rack itself or its gears have worn out;
  • Pair engagement is not adjusted properly;
  • The bushings at the junction of the rack and steering rods have worn out.

It is not always possible to adjust the rack to eliminate its incorrect operation. This occurs due to the fact that an impressive production of components is formed inside. This can only be determined by dismantling. Therefore, if the adjustment does not bring the expected effect, you will have to remove the rack from the car and check what is wrong with it.

Disassembly, general progress of work

Before starting repairs, be sure to check that you have a special repair kit on hand. There are two configuration options: full and incomplete. An incomplete set does not include a gear and rack, which will only require a major overhaul of the VAZ 2109 steering rack. A big advantage of the chosen car model is the relatively low cost of component materials, which means that repairing the VAZ 2109 steering rack with your own hands is not only a useful activity in terms of gaining experience , but also quite economical.

So, the painstaking work of disassembling and reassembling began.

Preparation for repair

Since we are talking about intervention in the steering system, suspension, special attention should be paid to preparation

  1. If you have a lift or inspection pit, you will be able to perform operations much faster and easier, which is the most important thing.
  2. Be sure to get a set of sockets and spanners. It is extremely difficult to work without them. In addition to the wrenches, you will need wire cutters, pliers, a hammer, a flat head screwdriver, and a tie rod end remover.
  3. To remove all fasteners that have been tightened for a long time, a can of WD40 will certainly not hurt. It removes oxidation from nuts and removes rust. In addition to the almighty WD40, buy graphite lubricant or grease. By treating the fasteners with them, you will be able to remove them much easier in the future.
  4. The presence of rags, a metal brush, fresh gasoline or solvent is welcome.
  5. Ask your friend to help you with your work. It's much easier to change steering wheels with four hands.

Be sure to remove the negative terminal from the battery in order to de-energize the car. We don't want short circuits or burned out wiring.


Repair kit

Hanging the axle

To safely and independently change the steering rack in your own garage, it is extremely necessary to correctly and securely hang the front axle of the car.

Sometimes this issue is not given due attention, as a result of which the car falls, this leads, at best, to damage to the elements of the car, and at worst, to injuries to the repairer himself.

In order to do everything in accordance with safety standards, you need to:

  • Place your VAZ 2109 on a level surface. Typically, garage floors are fairly level;
  • Install wheel chocks, shoes, bars or other similar means under the rear wheels. Block each wheel front and rear;
  • Pull the handbrake all the way to stop the wheels. Just make sure first that the handbrake works;
  • Set the steering wheel in neutral position;
  • Slightly loosen the fasteners on the wheels;
  • The front of the car needs to be raised. Here it is better to use two reliable jacks at once;
  • Near the jacks, additionally place metal stops that are adjustable. If there are no special devices, an ordinary block of wood, boards or some kind of stump will do. The main thing is that when you make contact with the body, when you pull or push it, the car does not tip over;
  • Remove the front wheels completely and begin replacing the steering racks.


Optimal working conditions

Dismantling

Before installing a new steering rack, you need to get rid of the old one. For this:

  1. Get to the place where the rack is attached in the engine compartment. To do this, you will probably have to remove the alarm and gas adsorber, at the same time dismantling the hoses.
  2. Disconnect the rack from the steering column shaft. Before this, the plastic casing is removed, blocking the path to the spline joints. The rack shaft is released by unscrewing one bolt.
  3. Next, remove the steering ends from the levers. Here haste can significantly harm you. Gradually brush the threaded connections, tip pin and mounting nut with a metal brush. Then apply WD40 to these areas. Give the product a little time to react. Then you can use pliers and a screwdriver to remove the cotter pin from the connection. Once the solvent has taken effect, the nuts should come off without much effort.
  4. If the tip is in normal condition, it is recommended to remove this element from the strut lever with a puller. A more barbaric method can lead to damage, so you will have to change the tips.
  5. Unscrew the rack fasteners using keys. It is better to treat them with WD40 in advance.
  6. After unscrewing the nuts, pry the steering rack with a flat screwdriver and remove it from the studs.
  7. Call a partner to work together to remove the element through the opening in the wheel arch.

Wear

Pay attention to the condition of the drive gear. Its teeth should not show any signs of mechanical damage.

If they are present, it needs to be changed. The same applies to the rack teeth. Place the gear on it and watch how they engage. If wear is evident, it is better to replace the mechanism. Repairing steering racks, which involves restoring them, is possible, but hardly justified. Even if we manage to do something, it won’t be for long. Over time, the malfunction will definitely manifest itself.

If the mechanism is worn out, there is only one way out - a new steering rack. The price of the assembled spare part is about 3,500 rubles. Agree, it’s not that expensive when it comes to safety.

When is VAZ 2109 rack repair required?

Steering rack repair may be required if certain elements of the mechanism wear out or fail. This can be determined by various symptoms, if identified, it is necessary to stop operating the vehicle and carry out repair work. Problems with the steering rack are indicated by:

  • increased steering play;
  • noise or knocking in the steering system;
  • steering wheel rotation is too tight.

It should be noted that the steering system is connected to some structural elements of the car, so during repairs it is necessary to check the condition of the steering rods, wheels, and also the steering column control unit.

So, if you are sure that your steering rack on a VAZ 2109 requires repair, you will have to first remove and disassemble the rack, and then carry out repair work and install the mechanism in place.

Post navigation

Many car enthusiasts are mistaken in believing that the steering rack on a VAZ is not adjustable and it is impossible to do it yourself. This is a misconception and adjustment of the steering rack on a VAZ car can be carried out by any car enthusiast independently. We will now explain how to tighten the steering rack on a VAZ-2115.

On the website of the official Moscow VAZ dealer, read the description of the entire model range, pay attention to the Lada Largus - what configuration the car is currently offered, with what engines and in what version. For each Lada Largus model, exact prices are indicated. Choose a new car!

Now let's tighten the steering rack:

see also

Comments 90

Well done! excellent work, and most importantly useful! and those who criticize are simply lazy, cross-armed))

Thank you)) Criticism is also important, it determines the desire to do better)

In principle, there are two eight-point slats and I’m thinking of disassembling them, replacing the repair kit, and assembling one rail, but with the same modification.

Be sure to check that the rasp is even, for some reason mine was crooked and wedged when pulled through

Yes, in principle, I think that out of two slats, a normal rasp will be found. No, I’ll start looking for the third one, long forgotten.

hammer) I also have to repair the rack, it also rattles like hell) you pull the rods with your hand, even this makes it knock) I thought I changed the tips first, but it wasn’t the problem with them.

The post helped a lot, I read it yesterday, I did it today, I rode everything perfectly, finally there was silence)))

What kind of lubricant should I put in the rail? I shoved litol - it’s tight in winter!

There is an answer somewhere below)) It seems like filol, or I think graphite lubricant will do!)

Wouldn't it be easier to buy a repair kit? 170 rubles, new rail

It may be easier, but the point is to do without money at all) But, however, there is an opinion that the new repair kit is enough for a short period of time, which is sad, and this “modernization”, even if the entire structure wears out, will absorb the impacts of the rack)

Wouldn't it be easier to buy a repair kit? 170 rubles, new rail

This modification is designed to last for many years, and the repair kit does not last long

new rack and that's it!

there's no point, the new ones don't last long either

Well, I don’t know, I’ve been driving for over a year and it’s fine. Of course, buy a cheap analogue. Of course it will break

How long did all the work cost? And then you have to do it too (((

I can’t even say, I did it slowly, was interrupted by other things, plus inexperience (it turned out that the rods don’t have to be unscrewed from the rack). With all the consequences, it took me about 4 hours)

How can the rods not be unscrewed from the rack? How then to remove it?

You remove the wheels, pull out the steering tips from the bipods of the struts, and unscrew the rack, then remove it through the hole on the side of the wheel)

So it’s easier to unscrew the rods from the rack) or am I wrong?)))

Not for everyone, and not always) I now think that it’s easier not to unscrew) If you don’t unscrew, then all that remains is to remove the clamps from the rack and pull them off the steering mechanism)

Hmm, I'll have to think about it) I'll probably do that)

I did the same thing from sewer pipes, I drove for 2-3 months, everything was fine, then I installed a new rail)

I just got a new complete rack assembly for free, I thought, why not change it))) To be honest, I thought I would immediately modify the new one so that I could forget about the rack altogether, but somehow I didn’t get around to it, I just lubricated it well and assembled it) It’s actually ok topic, while I went for these 2-3 months I didn’t find any negative consequences at all, everything was fine) Well done for not being lazy and doing it)

Well, yes, this guy actually expresses a lot of interesting ideas. He's actually a great guy, he's sorting out the engines on the grass in the garden. He also has a very interesting idea of ​​drilling holes in the pistons and chamfering the skirt. Reika is super revived, well done! They say it will be eternal after this - check it out)

We'll check it out, then I'll post it in my blog)

Good day, guys, once there was such a booze, tell me why the steering wheel is biting? I’ll explain in Kratsi, I bought the car used, but the owner had a fresh four, as soon as he left the showroom, he didn’t lubricate anything anywhere, didn’t tighten it up, drove for 9 months. When I picked up the car, the first thing I did was go !They dismantled the steering wheel and it was dry, he cleaned it off, he lubricated the rust from it, and installed it, and said after 1000 km, we’ll pull it up! At first, the steering wheel turned heavily, and as it approached 1000 km, it began to turn easily! I came to him again, he started to bite the steering wheel in one place, I tell him that you say the steering wheel is biting, he says that it will diverge over time! In general, I’ve already driven quite a bit, but it’s been biting and biting now, on winter tires it’s not so noticeable, but on summer tires it’s just crap! I don’t want to go back to the same master, or whatever you can call him differently (you never know, it’ll make it even worse)Author Sorry for being off topic! Credit for the work! 1! Help with advice

Maybe the bolts securing the rods to the rasp are long for some reason; when tightening, they rest against the body, and where there is a hole, they bite, but this is unlikely, most likely the worm mechanism itself)

IF it is a worm gear, then the entire rack needs to be replaced?

No, there is a repair kit that has everything, but the cost is almost half the cost of a new rack, so it’s up to you to decide)

thank you very much I'll think about it

I recently did this myself, only I used a 50mm sewer pipe as the material, one meter is enough. There is an effect, the beats are gone.

I also wanted to make it from a pipe initially, but I didn’t have any soft material on hand)

Literally the day before yesterday I also repaired (modified) the rack, this is the 3rd day of driving and I’m happy with the silence)

Prerequisites for knocking

Knock on the control rack - where does it come from? Let's find the root cause.

Yes, the control rack is a more common system than the outdated worm type.

As previously mentioned above, even in Russian cars it “goes” 80-100 thousand km, without causing any problems for motorists.

But the early knock, as annoying as it may sound, appears from time to time.

The prerequisites are:

  1. On a VAZ-21099, for example, a knock on the control rack is often caused by insufficiently tightened fastening bolts. No, they were tightened for the sake of it, it was our amazing roads, creating vibrations, that spun them over time. It's not difficult to remove the knocking noise - you just need to tighten all the fasteners.
  2. On the VAZ-2110 and all cars in the tenth row family, the support bushing on one side of the rack often wears out. Since the support bushings here are made of plastic, their rapid wear does not become a miracle when traveling along our impeccable, so to speak, roads. Convexities contribute to the appearance of free movement of this element, which is why wear occurs at an accelerated pace.
  3. The situation is much more serious when the covers protecting the control rack are torn. Then dust and dirt have access to its jagged surfaces, which without undue drama looks like a disaster. The rack will not work for a long time without protection, which is why the unfortunate knock occurs.
  4. Corrosion of a part is generally a fatal problem, since the control rack will have to be completely changed. It is not cheap, but not more expensive than money and, most importantly, life with health.
  5. Occasionally, but there is a manufacturing defect. Here the rack in most cases knocks already on a brand new car. Fortunately, if the vehicle is considered to be under warranty, then the replacement of a bad component can be achieved through the “establishment” of the manufacturer of the car. Damage at the factory, poor production quality are more common cases of manufacturing defects.
  6. Lath material. Typically, it is soft and designed for driving on high-quality roads. When driving through our pits and as a result of constant vibration, metal is removed from the surface of the rack evenly layer by layer, micron by micron, and this leads to premature wear of the support sleeve. In this case, the problem can be solved using 2 methods. Either purchase a new rail or order a similar one made from stronger metal. Usually people who do this will advise you on suitable material.

All motorists, without exception, would like to know how to preserve and extend the life of the control rack, because this is not just an expensive, but also an important component, the failure of which often turns into a disaster.

Boot rupture and mechanism wear

The rubber boot on the crankcase serves to protect the entire steering mechanism from dirt, dust and moisture. In addition, it prevents lubricant from leaking out of the crankcase. You've probably heard the phrase “steering rack is leaking.” So, this lubricant leaks out through the torn boot. Damage to it will inevitably lead to premature failure of the control mechanism. In addition to leaving it without lubrication, moisture and dust will seriously accelerate the wear process. If you discover that the steering rack is leaking in your car, immediately go to the store for a new boot. And don't forget to buy lubricant.

The cause of knocks from below can be faults not only in the suspension, but also in the steering of the car.

The condition of the steering greatly affects both the ease of driving and traffic safety.

The cause of knocks and vibrations on the steering wheel can be the condition of the ball joints of the steering rods and steering mechanism, and the condition of the car's wheels.

To check the steering, place the car on a horizontal platform, open the hood and perform the following operations.

1. Turn the wheels to the right until they stop. In this position, the left wheel tie rod ball joint becomes accessible, which can be seen from under the left wing of the car.

2. Check the integrity of the rubber protective boot of the steering rod joint.

3. Have an assistant rock the steering wheel from side to side and observe the connection between the ball joint and the telescopic strut arm.

There should be no visible play (play) in the ball joint.

Be sure to replace a tie rod end with a damaged joint boot or increased play in the joint with a new one.

When replacing tie rod ends, wheel alignment angles may be disrupted.

4. Check the condition of the right wheel joint in the same way.

5. A rack and pinion steering mechanism is installed on the front panel separating the engine compartment from the passenger compartment.

Ask an assistant to sharply shake the steering wheel left and right and watch the steering mechanism.

If the steering gear housing moves from side to side, it is necessary to tighten its mounting to the body.

Do not use excessive force when tightening the steering housing nuts as this may cause the studs to break and be difficult to replace.

The tightening torque of the steering gear housing mounting nuts is 15–19 Nm.

6. Pay attention to whether there are any gaps at the junction of the steering rods with the steering rack.

If the gaps cannot be eliminated by tightening the tie rod mounting bolts, then the rubber-metal hinges of the inner tie rod ends must be replaced.

7. Carefully inspect the front tires. Strong impacts from the road surface, especially when hitting potholes, can cause the cords in the tire carcass to delaminate and cause the tire to bulge ("bulge") or become misaligned.

A possible cause of vibration and shock in the steering wheel when driving at speeds above 70–80 km/h may be an imbalance of the front wheels.

Contact a car service center or tire shop to check the balancing of the front wheels.

If shocks and vibrations appear on the steering wheel when you press the brake pedal, contact a car service to replace the brake pads, repair or replace the front brake discs.

Knock on the control rack

Now we will talk about the situation when a knock appeared on the control rack, the prerequisites for this phenomenon and methods for eliminating them.

Rack and pinion control mechanism

A rack and pinion control mechanism is installed in most types of passenger cars.

Rack and pinion control mechanism

It is simpler in design and does not contain enough moving parts, which means it is more reliable.

The main elements of the rack and pinion control mechanism are the gear and the rack.

How does the control mechanism work?

Under impeccable conditions, the entire mechanism will be able to last up to 100 thousand kilometers of the car.

Also, the presence of a rack and pinion control mechanism significantly reduces the price of the car, which is also very important.

But nothing is perfect, and there are problems with the control racks that require both a professional and non-professional approach.

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