The Ural motorcycle does not start; there are reasons for the spark

First start

After a long period of inactivity, the motorcycle requires proper maintenance before starting for the first time. To understand why the bike does not start after winter, you need to remember the sequence of preserving the bike after the end of the season.

The first thing that is usually done in preparing a car for long-term storage without moving is to disassemble the battery. It must be stored in a cool and busy place. Therefore, before the start of the new season, it will be necessary to replace the battery. Sometimes the bike does not start after winter due to lack of battery charge. The battery may need to be recharged before replacing.

It is important to store the motorcycle with a full tank of gas, otherwise condensation may cause corrosion of the metal. Contrary to popular belief, the gasoline in the tank does not deteriorate and this cannot be the reason why a Ural or Honda motorcycle does not start.

In any case, before you start driving, you must carefully check the presence of antifreeze, brake fluid, and change the oil. Brake fluid is very sensitive to environmental humidity. When connections are leaking, it absorbs moisture, which leads to oxidation of the brake system and, in some cases, brake failure. And remember, your haste or carelessness can cause serious damage to your motorcycle, especially after a long period of inactivity.

Differences in testing methods for carburetor and injection internal combustion engines

To determine the malfunction, you need to check all the spark plugs individually. Often, an improvement in the spark occurs when replacing a set of spark plugs. But sometimes the reason may be different. At the same time, all SZs break down at the same time infrequently.

Checking these elements for cars with carburetor and injection engines is different. For the first type of car, it is enough to unscrew the spark plug, connect the wire and touch the ground with the metal part. Turn on the car ignition.

Checking the spark plug using wires, typical for cars with a carburetor engine

This method is not suitable for vehicles with fuel injection engines. These cars are equipped with many electronic devices. They may fail during such a test. Therefore, it is recommended to use a multimeter to diagnose the condition of the spark plugs. It will allow you to safely and accurately identify a faulty SZ.

Checking the spark plug with a multimeter, typical for cars with an injection engine

Does not start. What to do?

It depends on what symptoms you have and whether you have them;

If, when you try to start the engine, it kicks (there is kickback in the leg), then the ignition must be turned on later.

If the stock drops too easily, you need to look at the box. It could also be a socket or a torn wedge.

If there are no obvious symptoms, let’s check in order:

1. Is the engine switch turned off?
2. Is the tap closed?
3. Is there gas in the tank?
4. Do carbohydrates contain gasoline? (Press on the carburetor float. Hold until gasoline flows)
5. Is the air filter adjuster closed?
6. Is there a spark? (We unscrew the spark plug, place it on the ground, kick it. If there is a spark, move on to the second spark plug.)
7. Are the spark plug contacts dry?
8. Is there a leak between the cylinder head and the boiler? (Pour oil at an intersection, listen)
9. Are the thermal clearances on the valves set correctly? (Remove the valve covers, with one of the valves open, measure the gap between the rocker arm and the other valve (0.05 in the Urals, 0.07 on the Dnieper, 0.1 on the K-750, M-72, Dnepr -12))
10. Compression control. (Compressometer, or “by eye”)

Fixing problems:

1. Turn on.
2. Open. Set it to “reserve” if there is little fuel in the tank.
3. Pour.
4. Reset.
5. Open.
6. We observe a gap (0.6 for contact ignition), contact contamination. Adjust/remove. If there is no spark, we change the spark plugs (A14 with a short skirt or an analogue), if after that it does not appear and the coil goes to the coil (with a minimum of 8 volts for a 12 volt circuit and a minimum of 4 volts for a 6 volt circuit) we set the ignition, gaps in the ignition (0.4-0.6), spark gaps on the coil (8-9 mm) and clean the contacts. If there are no leaks at the coil and the battery is good, you can run the wire straight from the battery to the coil. If this does not help, we will try to replace the high-voltage cables. Again, this did not help, so the coil (or ignition) will need to be replaced.
7. Wipe dry with a clean cloth. Drain the mixture.
8. We retract it (if it doesn’t help, change the gasket).
9. We are exhibiting.
10. If the compression is low, pour 15-20 cubic meters of oil into the boiler through the hole in the plug. If the compression has increased, it is necessary to replace the rings; if not, the piston has burned out. Replace the rings or piston accordingly.

Possible options:

• Mots stayed for a long time (full resuscitation): change the oil, charge the battery, clean the carburetors from plaque and accumulated dirt, clean the gas tank from accumulated water, change the spark plugs, replace gasoline, check the valves, set the valve clearances, ignition, set the tilt angle in advance ( most likely not required) check the spark plug, clean the air filter. For the first start: 2-5 cubic meters of gasoline per candle in each boiler with a drop of oil.
• The Motz was recently repaired: the battery, water in the fuel system, sometimes the ignition coil, spark plugs fail due to moisture.
• Hot motz does not start, but starts cold: the valves are tightened.

Basic faults

Sometimes the motorcycle starts to work abnormally or does not start at all. Let's look at the most common engine malfunctions.

The engine does not start. Reasons: Fuel does not flow into the carburetors. Floods (especially when the engine is hot). The tap sump is clogged. There is no spark at the spark plug:

b) the gap between the breaker contacts is incorrect, the breaker contacts are oily or burnt.

c) there is no contact at the battery terminals

.d) the wire terminals are dirty. e) the ignition coil is not working. f) the low-voltage wires are broken. There is no or weak compression in the engine:

a) there is no clearance in the valve mechanism.

b) malfunction of the piston rings

.c) loose fit of the valves due to burnout of the valve plates or carbon deposits on them. The engine runs intermittently. Reasons: Lean mixture:

a) illegal supply to the carburetor.

b) the carburetor jets are clogged. c) water has got into the gasoline. The spark plugs are faulty. The terminals on the battery are not tightened properly. The breaker contacts are burned or the gap is incorrect. The capacitor does not make contact or is broken. The mixture is enriched due to the fact that the float chamber is overfilled with gasoline. a) the float needle valve is dirty or leaking fuel.

b) the float has a leak.

c) the carburetor jet is poorly tightened. The carburetor adjustment is disturbed. The engine knocks. Reasons: Incorrect ignition. (early ignition) Engine overheating. Breakage of piston pins, pistons, cylinders, main bearings.

Messages [1 to 20 of 34]

1↑ Topic from Uralchik 09/27/2014 18:27:13

• Uralchik
• Newbie
• Idle

• Registered: 01-06-2014
• Posts: 22

Topic: It's corny, but Ural won't start

Guys, the story is this: I left, drove about 500 meters and the bike stopped pulling itself (in a straight line), started shooting and sneezing, you know. Think immediately: suck out the air. And indeed, oil was seeping under the left cylinder head. There was an aluminum gasket, replaced with paronite. I set the valve clearances by eye, first setting them to TDC (arrow on the flywheel) and adjusting the left one, then returning the right cylinder to TDC. I had no experience with tuning a twin cylinder engine, so I asked my friends how it was done, and that's when I started exhibiting. It seems like everything is set up as before (the gaps feel the same), but the bastard won’t leave! Once I grabbed it once, I screamed at high rpm (for some reason only at high rpm) for about five seconds and it turned off. It didn't start anymore, it didn't even realize it. There is an excellent spark on both spark plugs, I did not touch the ignition carburetors, since before the breakdown they stood and stopped, but before the breakdown the engine flew and did not pass.

Tell me where to start choosing to understand what the problem is?

Eh, I almost forgot to clarify, the battery is fresh, only from charging, unless the bike was in the fresh air, where did the water come from?

2↑ Reply from RaaF37rus 09/27/2014 19:22:37

• RaaF37rus
• Pro
• Idle
• Name: Sergey

• Location: Ivanovo region, Kamenka village
• Registered: 07/27/2013
• Posts: 542
• Reputation: 63
• Motorcycle: IMZ 8-103-10

Re: It’s corny, but the Ural won’t start

Well, it’s better to place the valve not according to the mark on the flywheel, but “at the beginning of the closing of the intake, the exhaust is adjusted, and at the beginning of the opening of the exhaust, the intake is adjusted” the camshaft? Look.

3↑ Reply from Lerych 09/27/2014 19:47:12

• lerich
• Motorcycle dealer
• Idle
• Name: Valery

• Location: Yaroslavl region
• Registered: 01/18/2012
• Posts: 2,138
• Reputation: 215
• Motorcycles: Ural m66, Riga 22, Java 360, Ural 8.103

Re: It’s corny, but the Ural won’t start

so the reason for the dohar may be the carburetors, so they are not in a hurry, and, for example, gasoline may not come from the same tank. I have the same crap he's talking about, loaded and it was running fine and then all of a sudden it won't pull after 5K. The carbies were dismantled and out of breath! there are shock absorbers not of current production, but even gnawed right on the cylinder, which furrows as soon as the tank is clogged in order to pierce the nipples connecting the compartments with a nail. The ignition tends to unscrew, the camshaft bearing has the same property, while the notches no longer match and the valve timing shifts. the valves are usually adjusted strangely. As far as I understand, if you set it from the mark, then one cylinder and the second must be set at 180 degrees, and not from the mark; if not, then all the impacts will occur simultaneously on both cylinders, and this should not happen.

4↑ Reply from Starodumov 09/27/2014 20:39:10

• Starodumov
• WILD HUNTER. Moderator
• Idle

• Location: Permyak
• Registered: 05/16/2012
• Posts: 6,579
• Reputation: 508
• Motorcycle: Dnepr MT 10-36, Ural M 67

Re: It’s corny, but the Ural won’t start

Set the valve, as Seryoga said, check whether gasoline is flowing into the carburetor, then go into the cylinder, check whether the spark plugs are wet or not, check the oil level, one thing I don’t like is that I stopped pulling. Take a look at the ignition at least visually: I recently lost almost a thousand pieces, but it worked, I got lost in looking for the cause. And, of course, the tap needs to be cleaned at least every now and then.

5↑ Reply from SANYa pif 09/27/2014 21:46:37

• Sanya pif
• Elder
• Idle
• Name: Alessandro

• Location: Bely, Tver region.
• Registered: 06-02-2013
• Posts: 4,672
• Reputation: 254
• Motorcycle: Ural 8.103.10

Re: It’s corny, but the Ural won’t start

check if water has entered the carburetor, as it was on the road, unscrew the bottom cover of the housing, look

6↑ Reply from 14 23:39:59

• 666
• Technical support, materials scientist
• Idle

• Registered: 06-05-2010
• Posts: 6,591
• Reputation: 601

Re: It’s corny, but the Ural won’t start

Well, it’s better to place the valve not according to the mark on the flywheel, but “at the beginning of the closing of the intake, the exhaust is adjusted, and at the beginning of the opening of the exhaust, the intake is adjusted” the camshaft? Look.

I do not recommend this method to anyone, the most inaccurate adjustment method, only the most accurate by the TDC mark, if the factory mark is filled in correctly (this is easy to check).. So, we set the TDC, remove the valve cover, no matter which cylinder is left or right , look at the gap... (measure if necessary), an important point, whatever the gap is, we don’t adjust it (we remember), now we make a full turn (360 degrees) and set TDC again. we measure the space again, if the space is larger than the previous one, this is the exact position of the knee: we adjust both valves at the same time.. If the gap in the first version was larger, we will return to it by making another 360 degree turn.. That is, from two knee positions to TDC, we choose where the space is the most, and adjust it there.. Applies to both cylinders..

Reasons why a motorcycle won't start

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Problems with carburetors, reasons:

• Lack of fuel in the carburetor.
• Filling (especially when the engine is hot).
• The faucet cup is clogged.
• Incorrect fuel supply to the carburetor.
• The carburetor jets are clogged.
• Water getting into gasoline.
• The float needle valve is dirty or leaking fuel.
• The float is leaking.
• The carburetor jet is not tightened properly.

When the motorcycle is parked for a long time, it may not start. And they say: The Urals will not leave after winter. It may also have difficulty starting in cold weather. These reasons cannot be avoided, since this is an old motorcycle and everything is done according to the old system. There is still a solution to this problem: you just need to dig it well and then warm it up for at least 15 minutes. And in winter, do this from time to time. Then it will start better

Problems with candles. There may be no spark or vice versa.

When there is no spark at the spark plug due to:

1. Break the candle.
2. Incorrect marking of the gap between the switch contacts, oily or burnt switch contacts.
3. Lack of contact at the battery terminals.
4. Dirty wire terminals.
5. Ignition coil malfunction.
6. Broken low voltage cable.

Many people wonder: the Ural won’t start, but is there a spark?!

1. There is no play in the valve mechanism.
2. Defective piston rings.
3. Improper seating of the valves due to burning of the plates or the formation of carbon deposits on them.

1. Incorrect fuel supply to the carburetor.
2. The carburetor jets are clogged.
3. Water getting into gasoline.
4. The float needle valve is dirty or leaking fuel.
5. The float is leaking.
6. The carburetor jet is not tightened properly.

Also common problems:

• Low voltage at the battery terminals.
• Burnout or improper play of switch contacts.
• There is no contact or the capacitor is broken.

The reasons for this may be:

1. Incorrect ignition.
2. Motor overheating.
3. Broken pins, cylinders, pistons, main bearings.

Therefore, if any of the above motorcycle failure problems occur, you should pay attention to the overall performance of the motorcycle. Indeed, as a result, technical problems can not only lead to difficulties in driving, but also affect the driver’s safety.

Well, it doesn't want to start.

Good evening, comrades. I am writing in despondency, asking for your help, to indicate the reason that this unit needs to start.

I rode around in the spring and early summer, leaving behind a curtain of smoke. In July it went up for repairs. The repair lasted two months, because it was working and we had to wait a long time for spare parts by mail. I assembled everything, it was time for the first start (Saruman started it on the ignition system), it started with half a turn, but did not work for more than a minute, because... then it turned out that the optical sensor was defective ( https://cs319417.vk.me/v319417112/8ed5/ERQMD09WU0c.jpg ), okay, while I was waiting for a new optical sensor, I started it on the cams, but was not satisfied, and went to buy an DH from VAZ, you have to ride while the warranty opto-sensor is in the mail. I drove 50 km with the VAZ sensor, then again the LED on the switch did not blink, and therefore there was no spark, and besides, the generator started leaking ( https://cs304601.vk.me/v304601112/3c75/HJQncMzZEg8.jpg ), I went through everything, installed an oil seal from a Subaru, replaced the bearing with a new one, made in Slovakia, I couldn’t find better quality. But then an opto-sensor arrived by mail, but for some reason it no longer worked. I started installing the cams again to make sure that the generator was assembled and working correctly. Oops, everything started up, the generator was working, the lamp went out, charging was going on, but since I forgot to open the tap, it didn’t work for me for long either. Well, okay, I opened it, swung it, but then he declared a boycott. Further adjustment of the MH did not help. It's like he just died.

What are the reasons for the Ural motorcycle not starting?

Why is the Ural bike difficult to start? There are frequent breakdowns and ways to fix them. These bikes don't break down very often. But it happens that you have to completely redo the transport.

The first problem that occurs is that the bike will not start. Don't go to extremes right away. The likely cause is compression problems.

1. We pump gas into the chamber.
2. Turn on the ignition and start the bike.
3. We unscrew the candle. When it produces a consistent spark, it is in good condition.
4. We check the cylinder for leaks.

In the last step, plug the hole for the spark plug with your finger so that no air escapes. Air filters through your fingers - everything is fine with compression.

Why is there a weak spark on the spark plugs?

The spark can be weak for various reasons. The main ones are malfunctions:

• Spark plugs.
• Ignition coils.
• Battery.
• High voltage wires.
• Low voltage circuits.
• Electronic control unit.
• Distributor.

Sometimes the problem can occur due to loose connections between the wires and the vehicle's electronic equipment. Problems sometimes arise for other reasons. But the first thing you should do is check the engine compartment for moisture. Often it is enough to wipe them with a rag to restore the functionality of the candles. But on heavily used cars with high mileage, increasing spark power without some modifications is not always possible, even if the above parts and assemblies are in full service.

Faulty spark plug

Why the Ural motorcycle does not start - compression problems

Most often, the compression on a Ural motorcycle is too low. It does not pump fuel into the cylinder, so the mixture does not ignite. There are many reasons for losses:

• — Air is coming out of the valve.
• — Air is escaping from the seal.
• — Air is coming out of the rings.

Pass the pad: Pour water over the ribs and bubbles will appear. In this case, it is enough to replace the seals with Ural ones. If not, we take a syringe of oil from the engine and pour it into the cylinder, working with a special tool. We put it on with our finger. Has compression improved? So the answer to the question of why the Ural motorcycle does not start well should be sought in the rings.

If not, unscrew the lid, placing a liner under it. Note that the valve is in because the stem is a little out and they are not aligned. The one above is clamped. To adjust the gap, you need to loosen the valves on both the right and left. Gently press the valve with your foot. The valves are relaxed.

Check the distances using feeler gauges. Find 0.05 mm and enter the location where the rocker arm connects to the valve. If it doesn't hold up, the gap is too big. Look further. Unscrew the bolts and take the dipstick. We fix it between the valve and the rocker arm and slightly tighten it so that it holds the dipstick. We tighten the bolt and tighten the nut.

Why the Ural motorcycle does not start - other possible problems

If there is still no compression on the Ural motorcycle, do the following.

• — Unscrew the carburetor.
• — We pull out the knee with a hammer (wooden hammer).
• — Unscrew the nuts from the studs.
• - Let's get out of our heads.

How to clean valves? We buy lapping paste and add oils. We smear it on the valve, after making a crack (you will need a drill and a flat nozzle). We put pasta in it and insert the valve. The paste should flow under the valve. To do this, the valve was turned and raised. Dry the pasta with a cloth. A golden frame should appear.

Check the seal with the valve. We install the springs, screw in the spark plug and fill with gasoline to the brim. Everything should be dry. We install the head and adjust the valve. When removing a head with an aluminum gasket, you need to buy a new one (the old one will be flat and air will pass through it). The new gasket is slightly convex, which ensures a tight seal.

This will improve compression on the Ural motorcycle. If the Ural does not start, check the ignition. Unscrew the lid and take a look. Nothing should dissolve. Ignition should be medium. If the foot comes back with a strong kick, the ignition is premature. To turn it on later, you need to move the tab slightly counterclockwise. If the ignition is delayed, the motorcycle may also not start. Then you need to move your leg clockwise.