For stable operation of a motorcycle engine, only a few components are needed - a sufficient amount of gasoline and the timely appearance of a spark between the electrodes to ignite the fuel mixture. If the spark on a motorcycle is weak, occurs at the wrong time or does not reach its destination, there can be no question of normal engine operation and a smooth, fast ride on the motorcycle. And then, instead of traveling, you will have to disassemble the vehicle and look for the cause of the malfunction.
In fact, everything is not so scary and not so difficult. The main thing is to act carefully or go to the website and contact specialists.
Leave it to mechanics or install electronics
Perhaps not all older motorcycle models are running. The Ural motorcycle sits and rusts in my grandfather’s barn because it won’t start.
The wheels are spinning, the engine is not jammed. Maybe the spark goes into the ground, as they say. In short, you need to look at the spark generation system. But even a working motorcycle, with a contact ignition system, causes unexpected and unpleasant problems for its owner:
- won't start when you really need it;
- with new oil rings in the engine, the spark plugs become covered with soot;
- there is no required engine power when driving with maximum load;
- the maximum speed is not reached;
- The battery is slightly discharged and the engine does not start.
Tuning a Ural motorcycle with your own hands - this article will help you decide in which direction to modernize your Ural.
The contact ignition system creates a lot of problems, especially when the moving parts in it have already worn out, backlash has appeared, and the geometry of the elements has changed.
The solution is simple - all cam ignition is thrown out, a modern electronic non-contact type spark generation system is installed. You will no longer have to deal with the thankless task of cleaning contacts and endlessly adjusting the gaps in the breaker. All this is possible thanks to the simple, but quite reliable design of the motorcycle. For example, it is quite easy to set the thermal gap and adjust the valves in the Urals with your own hands, using only your own tools from the garage. This way you will gain valuable experience and save money on visiting the workshop.
Messages [1 to 20 of 29]
1↑ Topic by Gamez 03/16/2014 23:44:23
- Gamez
- Assistant
- Inactive
- Name: Pavel
- From: Ukraine Zhitomir
- Registered: 03-07-2013
- Messages: 213
- Reputation: 11
- Motorcycle: Dnepr 10-36
Subject: Lost spark
The spark on the motorcycle MT 10-36 suddenly disappeared. It was like this: I started it up, warmed up the carburetors (Min. 20), drove about 1 km and turned it off. I tried to start it, it wouldn't start (it tormented me for about 10 minutes), I removed the cap, I inserted the spark plug, I put it on the cylinder, there is no spark on the second one, the same thing. The current does not go to the coil (it does), but there is still no spark, I still don’t understand what the reason is, maybe someone connected. And yes, the contact was scraped with natfil.
(A huge request not to write something like BSZ, go there, no problem)
2↑ Reply from PATRIOT 03/16/2014 23:59:47
- PATRIOT
- Patriot IMZ
- Inactive
- Name: Ilya
- From: Krasnodar region, Krasnodar
- Registered: 18-02-2011
- Messages: 3 148
- Reputation: 176
- Motorcycle: No. Next will be the K750!
Re: Lost spark
That's right, all this is BSZ rubbish. All sorts of Sarumans, Shards.
In short, the most important thing is to check the current of the positive wire going to the coil (preferably with a test light) because you will see the strength of the current - the light will burn brightly or dimly. Maybe you have something wrong in the wiring, and the ignition simply doesn’t have enough current! Moreover, the contact current consumes a lot of current. We go further, if current flows to the coil, check the spark on the spark plugs - no, don’t rush to change the capacitor. Usually the capacitor produces a spark even if it is faulty. Also try setting the gap between the contacts smaller (by eye), maybe the gap is too large for sparking! Well, if you did all this and there is no spark, then you bought a shitty coil! Try another one, buy it, or borrow it from a friend. I also recently bought 2 new 6-volt ones. I put one on - no spark. I put the second one on - there is a spark. Good luck!
3↑ Reply from drakone 03/17/2014 11:54:58
- on drakone
- Elder
- Inactive
- Name: Albert
- From: Omsk region. Omsk city
- Registered: 07-12-2012
- Messages: 4 972
- Reputation: 125
- Motorcycle: Ural 8.103.10, GAZ 31029
Re: Lost spark
You came here for advice, and not to have bullshit shoved at you. You know what, check the simplest thing, maybe you have a blown fuse
4↑ Reply from ZED-m63 03/17/2014 14:55:48
- ZED-m63
- Pro
- Inactive
- Name: Evgeniy
- From: Amur region/Svobodny
- Registered: 10-03-2014
- Messages: 808
- Reputation: 39
- Motorcycle: URAL m-63
Re: Lost spark
5↑ Reply from Watto 03/17/2014 15:11:30
- Watto
- Elder
- Inactive
- Name: Vladimir
- From: Nizhny Novgorod region
- Registered: 22-09-2012
- Messages: 1 678
- Reputation: 236
- Motorcycle: ZiD-50, Honda CB750 Night Hawk, Dnepr MT 10-36
Re: Lost spark
The fuse, this is really probably the simplest thing - Gamez has probably already checked it. I'd also look at the battery. I had the following experience when operating the Pilot - a year-old battery (Chinese, of course) lost its charge literally before our eyes. Coming out of the garage, I started the engine with an electric starter, drove to the place, and after a short parking there was not enough charge even for the signal.
Edited by Watto (17-03-2014 15:14:49)
6↑ Reply from ZED-m63 03/17/2014 15:25:49
- ZED-m63
- Pro
- Inactive
- Name: Evgeniy
- From: Amur region/Svobodny
- Registered: 10-03-2014
- Messages: 808
- Reputation: 39
- Motorcycle: URAL m-63
Re: Lost spark
Yes, this can happen too.
7↑ Reply from drakone 03/17/2014 16:45:08
- on drakone
- Elder
- Inactive
- Name: Albert
- From: Omsk region. Omsk city
- Registered: 07-12-2012
- Messages: 4 972
- Reputation: 125
- Motorcycle: Ural 8.103.10, GAZ 31029
Re: Lost spark
apparently there was no mass
8↑ Reply from Gamez 03/17/2014 16:50:13
- Gamez
- Assistant
- Inactive
- Name: Pavel
- From: Ukraine Zhitomir
- Registered: 03-07-2013
- Messages: 213
- Reputation: 11
- Motorcycle: Dnepr 10-36
Re: Lost spark
Well, I tried it right away with the charger connected, I think if there was enough electricity, but I don’t have any for the fuse line
9↑ Reply from drakone 03/17/2014 16:52:14
- on drakone
- Elder
- Inactive
- Name: Albert
- From: Omsk region. Omsk city
- Registered: 07-12-2012
- Messages: 4 972
- Reputation: 125
- Motorcycle: Ural 8.103.10, GAZ 31029
Re: Lost spark
what about wire?
10↑ Reply from kilowatt3 03/20/2014 11:08:56
- kilowatt3
- Electrician
- Inactive
- Name: Alexander
- From: Belgorod region Alekseevka
- Registered: 24-03-2011
- Messages: 1 950
- Reputation: 197
- Motorcycle: Dnepr MT 11, but there were different ones and more than one!
Re: Lost spark
the topic is worn out to holes, there is even a video review so I’ll take it down soon, look for a plus on the reel or a dead reel or contacts can sit on the ground a movable cam there is no other option
11↑ Reply from Stierlitz 03/20/2014 18:22:24
- Stierlitz
- Elder
- Inactive
- Name: Sergey
- From: Tolyatti
- Registered: 21-12-2013
- Messages: 1 229
- Reputation: 126
- Motorcycle: Ural IMZ-8.1243 Voyage
Re: Lost spark
Regarding the purpose of the capacitor. It is not needed at all to create a spark on the candles, but just the opposite - so that the contacts do not spark or burn. So even in its absence, if other elements of the electrical circuit are in good working order, there will be a spark on the spark plugs, but the contacts on the cams will quickly burn out, and the resistance on them will increase.
12↑ Reply from Alexey2009 05/28/2014 14:32:03
- Alexey2009
- Newbie
- Inactive
- Registered: 28-09-2011
- Messages: 27
Re: Lost spark
The spark on the motorcycle MT 10-36 suddenly disappeared. It was like this: I started it up, warmed up the carburetors (Min. 20), drove about 1 km and turned it off. I tried to start it, it wouldn't start (it tormented me for about 10 minutes), I removed the cap, I inserted the spark plug, I put it on the cylinder, there is no spark on the second one, the same thing. The current does not go to the coil (it does), but there is still no spark, I still don’t understand what the reason is, maybe someone connected. And yes, the contact was scraped with natfil.
(A huge request not to write something like BSZ, go there, no problem)
Or maybe the wiring from the ignition switch just came loose?
Why the Ural motorcycle does not start - problems with compression
Most often, the compression on a Ural motorcycle is too low. It does not pump gasoline into the cylinder, so the mixture does not ignite. There are many reasons for leaks:
- – Air escapes through the valve.
- – Air escapes through the gasket.
- – The air escapes through the rings.
It passes through the gasket - pour water on the ribs and there will be bubbles there. In this case, simply replace the gaskets with Ural. If not, take a syringe of engine oil, pour it into the cylinder, using a special agent. We plug it with our finger. Has the compression improved? This means that the answer to the question of why the Ural motorcycle does not start well must be looked for in the rings.
If not, unscrew the lid, first placing a lining under it. Notice that the valve is tightened, because the rod is pushed out a little, and they are not level. The one that is higher is clamped. To adjust the gap, you need to relax the valves both right and left. Gently press the valve with your foot. The valves are relaxed.
Check the gaps with feeler gauges. Find 0.05 mm and insert where the rocker arm connects to the valve. If it doesn't hold, the gap is too big. Let's look at the next one. Unscrew the bolts and take the dipstick. We clamp it between the valve and the rocker arm and tighten it slightly so that it holds the dipstick. Fix the bolt and tighten the nut.
Generator and ignition sensor
You can check the generator and sensor without removing them from the engine.
We switch the tester to the AC measurement mode for the 2V range or, if your tester has such an option, for 200mV. With one probe we touch any metal part of the scooter or engine, with the other probe we touch the sensor wire (in the picture above it is labeled as a Hall sensor, but in fact it is an inductive ignition sensor). We turn the engine with the starter and look at the multimeter display. If the numbers are flashing on the display, it means the sensor is generating a signal and everything is fine with it. Otherwise, the sensor is faulty or the wire is broken.
If you know easier ways to check or something is not described in sufficient detail, write in the comments. I will be glad to improve the article based on your feedback.
URAL starter does not turn
If the control system of the above equipment does not turn on the starter when turning the ignition key to start, then the cause of the breakdown lies in the electrical equipment or electronic systems of the truck. The reasons may be the following:
- Faulty relay and fuse box
- Lack of contacts in electrical wiring connectors
- Truck main relay malfunction
- Failure of the ignition switch Failure of the starter
- CAN bus break or short circuit
- Lack of “mass”
- No supply voltage at the engine control unit
- Open or shorted wiring harness
- Starter solenoid relay malfunction
- Failure of the ignition switch
- Failure of the engine control unit
No spark causes and solutions.
When there is no spark after an unsuccessful attempt to start the engine, or the spark on the spark plugs suddenly disappears and, of course, the engine does not start, then some novice drivers do not know where to start to get rid of this malfunction. This article will describe the reasons why a spark may be absent or appear every once in a while, and will also discuss methods for simple diagnostics (troubleshooting) of the ignition system.
I have already written about repairing the ignition system and you can read about it in detail in this article. It describes in detail the testing of all components of the ignition system, both the modern contactless electronic and the more ancient contact ignition system.
But this article will describe when there is no spark, the reasons and specific actions to ensure that a spark appears on the spark plugs.
No spark causes and solutions.
- 1. Let's start with the simplest and gradually move on to more complex reasons. The first and most common reason is a discharged battery. Of course, this can be determined without a voltmeter, since a discharged battery will not crank the crankshaft with an electric starter of a car or motorcycle. But many drivers, after an unsuccessful attempt to start with an electric starter, try to start the car with a pusher, hoping that the energy of the discharged battery is not enough for the starter, but is quite enough for the ignition system. In most cases this is not the case.
And if the energy of a discharged battery for a contactless electronic ignition system in most cases is enough to cause a spark and a successful attempt to start the engine from the pusher, then for an older contact system, the energy of a discharged battery will not be enough to cause a spark (especially if the contacts are burnt, and this happens often) . Therefore, in order not to guess and not waste human energy on pushing the car, we simply bring the battery back to normal using a charger. Beginners can read how to properly charge the battery here.
- 2. Another simple and banal reason why there will be no spark on the spark plug is simply a failure of the spark plug or it is simply necessary to clean the spark plug (read how to check and properly clean the spark plug here). Of course, the spark plugs don’t all fail at once, and if one of the spark plugs fails, the four-cylinder engine will simply start to stall. Therefore, this reason is only suitable for single-cylinder motorcycle engines, but still it was worth mentioning, let’s move on.
But before checking and cleaning a non-working spark plug, try swapping the high-voltage wires and if a spark appears on a previously non-working spark plug, then the reason is not in the spark plug, but in the spark plug wire, which should be replaced.
- 3. The third reason for the loss of spark, which often happens on used cars and motorcycles, is there is no voltage at the ignition coil terminal after turning the ignition key. Using a tester set to voltmeter mode (measuring direct current), you should measure at the coil terminals whether a voltage of 12 - 13 volts is supplied to terminal B+ of the coil (see figure) when the ignition switch is turned on. If it doesn’t, then you should check the integrity of the wire going from the lock to the coil (or from the mounting block to the coil - GP wire in Figure 1), and also check whether the terminals are oxidized.
- 4. If voltage comes to terminal B+ of the coil after turning on the ignition switch, but there is still no spark, then you should check the integrity of the wire and the cleanliness of the terminals of the wire coming to the distributor from the coil (the black wire marked with the letter C in Figure 1) and in general check all the wires and terminals of the low-voltage circuit of the ignition system (check the wires marked with the letters G and K, as well as GC and K. It also wouldn’t hurt to check the operation of the ignition switch itself 8 and the ignition switch relay 7, which rarely fail but still fail. And of course, we check the integrity of the fuses responsible for these circuits (in general, I advise beginners to check all the fuses at the very beginning).
- 5. On a contactless electronic ignition system, use a voltmeter to check the presence of a voltage of 12 volts (after turning on the ignition switch) at terminal B+ of the ignition coil, as well as at terminal 4 of the switch and check the integrity of the wire marked with the letters GP in Figure 2. We also check the integrity of the wire and the cleanliness of terminals K of the coil and terminal 1 on the switch and the integrity of the control wire of the gearbox connecting them. We also check the integrity and reliability of the connection (cleanliness of the terminals) with the car body of the black wire marked with the letter H in Figure 2, which connects terminal 2 of the switch to the car body. What can happen on the car due to poor contact of a lot of other wires, I advise you to read this useful article.
- 6. Next, we check the integrity of the wires and the reliability of the connection between terminals 3, 5, and 6 of the switch and the Hall sensor (wires marked with the letters Z, P and BC in Figure 2). If the terminals are securely connected and not oxidized, and the wires are intact, then we check the functionality of the hall sensor itself (read how to do this here). Well, you can find out how to check the functionality of the switch and ignition coil by clicking on the very first link at the beginning of this article, in the article about repairing the ignition system).
- 7. Having checked the low-voltage circuit of the ignition system, as described above, if everything is in order and a spark has not appeared, then we check the high-voltage part of the system. If there is no spark on any spark plug, then first of all we check the central high-voltage wire G (see Fig. 2), connecting ignition coil 5 and distributor 1. The tips of this wire must be clean and must be tightly inserted into the mounting sockets of the distributor cover and the ignition coil . We check the wire itself for integrity using a tester set to ohmmeter mode.
- 8. If there is no spark on only one spark plug out of four, then we check the high-voltage wire of the non-working spark plug (you can swap the wires, as described above, or check the wire of the non-working spark plug using a tester). Also, having removed the distributor cover, we check it for integrity (there should not be even the slightest cracks) and the cleanliness of all contacts inside and outside the cover, and the integrity of the carbon (graphite cylinder) in the center of the cover.
Also pay attention to whether the contacts on the system with contact ignition are burnt (we clean them), also check the required gap between the contacts using a feeler gauge (more about this in the article about repairing the ignition system - link to the article at the very beginning of the text).
- 9. Another common reason for the loss of a spark is the burnout of the resistor in the slider (and the sliders are different, as can be seen from the figure just above), indicated in the figure by yellow arrows. To make sure that there is no spark precisely for this reason, you should check the integrity of this resistor with a tester (turned on in buzzer or ohmmeter mode - the resistance of a working resistor should be approximately 5 - 6 kOhm). For those who don’t have a tester on the go, and also need to somehow get home, you should simply wrap the resistor with a piece of foil and insert it into place. If a spark appears, then of course the problem is in the resistor.
- 10. It happens that the spark disappears (or appears every other time) due to the failure of the capacitor (installed on the breaker of the oldest cars or domestic motorcycles). This can be easily treated by replacing the capacitor. I wrote how to check the capacitor in the same article about repairing the ignition system (the very first link at the beginning of this article).
- 11. On the latest injection machines, the engine will not start due to the failure of the crankshaft sensor, but we read how to replace or check it here, and also here. Also, a loss of spark occurs when the ignition module (ECU) fails, which fails quite rarely. In this case, you will have to look for a working unit and install it to replace the faulty one (buy a new one or look for it at disassembly).
That seems to be all the nuances, when there is no spark, the cause and methods of eliminating them on your own, good luck to everyone.
suvorov-custom.ru
What does the contactless ignition system on the Ural and Dnepr motorcycle provide?
- No headaches for the motorcycle owner when operating it;
- Starting the engine in wet and cold weather;
- Failure-free operation of the ignition system;
- Increased driving characteristics of the motorcycle as a whole;
- Increased candle life;
- Starting the engine when the battery voltage drops to 6 volts;
- Constant, not changing over time, ignition timing;
- The ignition coil cannot overheat.
- Powerful, required color, sparking.
Does not start. What to do?
It depends on what the symptoms are and whether they exist.
