Why does a Ural engine sneeze? (Page 1 of 3)

The essence of the problem

Most often, loud pops in the muffler of two-wheeled vehicles are heard when a lean mixture is supplied to the engine. The reason for its formation may be the use of low-quality gasoline, saturated with water and non-flammable impurities, or incorrect adjustment of the intake system. The air-fuel mixture burns only partially - its remains splash out into the hot muffler, where they explode with sharp, unpleasant sounds. A symptom of a lean mixture is popping sounds in bursts, which intensify as the speed increases.

In powerful motorcycles, the completely opposite problem is more common, associated with the supply of an excessively rich mixture. There is not enough oxygen for its combustion, which leads to the deposition of gasoline condensate on the walls of the muffler. When the “critical mass” is reached, the fuel outside the engine ignites, resulting in one loud bang. If the problem is not corrected, within 1–2 months the contents of the muffler will simply burn out and it will turn into a “direct flow”.

Incomplete combustion of the mixture may be caused by a malfunction of the ignition system. In the absence of a spark, the cylinder misses a power stroke and the full amount of gasoline enters the muffler. Loud sounds are most often heard in this case at high speeds. The problem is also fraught with complete burnout of the muffler from the inside. Misfires are often accompanied by beautiful visual effects - when the engine is overloaded, jets of flame fly out of the exhaust pipes.

Another option is a lean mixture in the intake system caused by air, dirt or water getting into it. Naturally, the fuel does not burn completely and drops of gasoline form on the walls of the muffler, burning with a sharp, characteristic sound. In any case, the motorcycle malfunction must be repaired as soon as possible so as not to encounter more serious repairs.

Messages [1 to 20 of 42]

Lover of the Urals
Newbie
Inactive

Registered: 22-09-2011
Messages: 10
Reputation: 1

Topic: Why does a Ural engine sneeze?

Yesterday I started it normally on the old woman!! no matter what, everything works great!!!! Today I installed a new 6 volt crap, it doesn’t plow, it sneezes and it doesn’t pick up speed! I installed the old one and during installation I turned the coil itself where the wire is wound! and now she's sneezing! So what’s the problem, not really the babain?

OLEG72
Assistant
Inactive
Name: Oleg

From: Novosibirsk region.
Registered: 21-05-2011
Messages: 157
Reputation: 16

Re: Why does a Ural engine sneeze??

Apparently it wasn’t the reel...
IMZ-8.103.10. (1993)

Messer_SS
Moderator
Active

From: Tambov
Registered: 05-09-2010
Messages: 3 763
Reputation: 305
Motorcycle: There are a lot of them…………..

Re: Why does a Ural engine sneeze??

Or maybe the engine has caught a cold??????………..
PS I answered my own question

A heavy motorcycle is like fine wine. The older you are, the more expensive………….

kilowatt3
Electrician
Inactive
Name: Alexander

From: Belgorod region Alekseevka
Registered: 24-03-2011
Messages: 1 950
Reputation: 198
Motorcycle: Dnepr MT 11, but there were different ones and more than one!

Re: Why does a Ural engine sneeze??

breakage and breakdown in the body
I own a BMW 525, it quickly eats a lot))))

MaCS
passerby
Inactive
Name: Max

From: Tyumen region, Vagai village (Yuzhn)
Registered: 24-01-2012
Messages: 9
Motorcycle: Ural IMZ-8.103-40 tourist

Re: Why does a Ural engine sneeze??

Hello, I have a problem with the Urals. We rode all summer in the Urals as a tourist, everything was a bundle, but somehow a bolt came loose on the box and the motorcycle stood up, we threw the box over and then started to start it, it farts sneezes, they climbed into the valves, they were all bent, they changed them, they wiped them, but they didn’t let them through, they started to start, the Ural started sneeze into the carburetors, set the ignition as it should, the other day they started to start it, it slammed into the pipe, the pipe was knocked out and caught fire. However, tell me what’s wrong, thanks in advance))

Ghost Rider
Ghost rider
Inactive
Name: Roman 34RUS

From: Volgograd region. Krasny Yar.
Registered: 15-01-2012
Messages: 3 608
Reputation: 108
Motorcycle: M-72, Stels Skif 50 2T, VAZ 21113.

Re: Why does a Ural engine sneeze??

Well, it can sneeze for two reasons - after all, the ignition is not set correctly, or the mixture is lean...
The engine roars, piercing the night, I am able to overcome the earth's magnet. I step on the gas, I'm about to take off. I'm lucky, I'm always lucky!

mexanik62
Mechanic from the 30s.
Inactive
Name: Uncle Vitya

From: Evpatoria
Registered: 03-08-2011
Messages: 10 832
Reputation: 1 149
Motorcycle: 12-volt K-750, ZAZ Sens Hatchback

Re: Why does a Ural engine sneeze??

Hello If there was no knocking from the flywheel, then the front main bearing or its housing was broken. If it was the rear one or both
... nothing can stop this Soviet motorcycle, not even its own brakes...

MaCS
passerby
Inactive
Name: Max

From: Tyumen region, Vagai village (Yuzhn)
Registered: 24-01-2012
Messages: 9
Motorcycle: Ural IMZ-8.103-40 tourist

Re: Why does a Ural engine sneeze??

”'Ghost Rider/' writes:

Well, it can sneeze for two reasons - after all, the ignition is not set correctly, or the mixture is lean...

The ignition is normal, everything is done, but the mixture... the dinner mixture is what do you mean the gasoline is diluted?

PATRIOT
Patriot IMZ
Inactive
Name: Ilya

From: Krasnodar region, Krasnodar
Registered: 18-02-2011
Messages: 3 148
Reputation: 179
Motorcycle: No. Next will be the K750!

Re: Why does a Ural engine sneeze??

I mean, is it rich or poor in oxygen?
I like to give a lot of gas in the Urals with direct flow, so that passers-by’s shoelaces come undone, and leaves fall from the trees….

mexanik62
Mechanic from the 30s.
Inactive
Name: Uncle Vitya

From: Evpatoria
Registered: 03-08-2011
Messages: 10 832
Reputation: 1 149
Motorcycle: 12-volt K-750, ZAZ Sens Hatchback

Re: Why does a Ural engine sneeze??

Hello Well, the valves are bent for some reason. The reason was not indicated (not found?)
... nothing can stop this Soviet motorcycle, not even its own brakes ...

Ghost Rider
Ghost rider
Inactive
Name: Roman 34RUS

From: Volgograd region. Krasny Yar.
Registered: 15-01-2012
Messages: 3 608
Reputation: 108
Motorcycle: M-72, Stels Skif 50 2T, VAZ 21113.

Re: Why does a Ural engine sneeze??

A lean mixture is a significant excess of air.
That is, there is less gasoline and much more air. This is accompanied by “shots” in the carburetor and engine overheating. A rich mixture is the opposite. Adjustable with screws on the carb. One of them is air supply, the other is gasoline. The engine roars, piercing the night, I am able to overcome the earth's magnet. I step on the gas, I'm about to take off. I'm lucky, I'm always lucky!

MaCS
passerby
Inactive
Name: Max

From: Tyumen region, Vagai village (Yuzhn)
Registered: 24-01-2012
Messages: 9
Motorcycle: Ural IMZ-8.103-40 tourist

Re: Why does a Ural engine sneeze??

thank you very much for the help

kilowatt3
Electrician
Inactive
Name: Alexander

From: Belgorod region Alekseevka
Registered: 24-03-2011
Messages: 1 950
Reputation: 198
Motorcycle: Dnepr MT 11, but there were different ones and more than one!

Re: Why does a Ural engine sneeze??

and what about the shots in the carbs, actually the shots when the ignition is early
I have a BMW 525 in my possession, it quickly eats a lot))))

partizan
Elder
Inactive
Name: Andrey

From: Lamborg
Registered: 22-12-2011
Messages: 1 179
Reputation: 59
Motorcycle: URAL-solo

Re: Why does a Ural engine sneeze??

he described something incorrectly, does the guy just want to chat? , but similar situations happened to friends, due to poor core drilling of these screws. And if suddenly (the bolt securing the rear flange of the crankshaft), then you are a “SCHUMACHER” friend?!

Ghost Rider
Ghost rider
Inactive
Name: Roman 34RUS

From: Volgograd region. Krasny Yar.
Registered: 15-01-2012
Messages: 3 608
Reputation: 108
Motorcycle: M-72, Stels Skif 50 2T, VAZ 21113.

Re: Why does a Ural engine sneeze??

Shots into the carb are correct - they ALSO happen with early ignition.
But when the mixture is lean, it burns for a long time, and even when the intake valve opens, it, let’s say, “burns out,” hence the shots in the carb(s). The engine roars, piercing the night, I am able to overcome the earth's magnet. I step on the gas, I'm about to take off. I'm lucky, I'm always lucky!

Alexey#18
Participant
Inactive

Registered: 31-05-2011
Messages: 38

Re: Why does a Ural engine sneeze??

probably caught a cold

MaCS
passerby
Inactive
Name: Max

From: Tyumen region, Vagai village (Yuzhn)
Registered: 24-01-2012
Messages: 9
Motorcycle: Ural IMZ-8.103-40 tourist

Re: Why does a Ural engine sneeze??

Today we drove in the Urals, it was a blast, we drove all day and in the evening we drove, a bolt on the flywheel came loose and we didn’t go anywhere and now we have to start all over again ((((

Ghost Rider
Ghost rider
Inactive
Name: Roman 34RUS

From: Volgograd region. Krasny Yar.
Registered: 15-01-2012
Messages: 3 608
Reputation: 108
Motorcycle: M-72, Stels Skif 50 2T, VAZ 21113.

Re: Why does a Ural engine sneeze??

No luck...
The engine roars, piercing the night, I am able to overcome the Earth's magnet. I step on the gas, I'm about to take off. I'm lucky, I'm always lucky!

Vsadnik
Participant
Inactive

Registered: 30-06-2011
Messages: 57
Reputation: 1

Re: Why does a Ural engine sneeze??

And when the breather sneezes during a very long drive, is it the pistons that are at fault?

mexanik62
Mechanic from the 30s.
Inactive
Name: Uncle Vitya

From: Evpatoria
Registered: 03-08-2011
Messages: 10 832
Reputation: 1 149
Motorcycle: 12-volt K-750, ZAZ Sens Hatchback

Re: Why does a Ural engine sneeze??

Hello There is no overheating of the rings and the ignition is every once in a while
...nothing can stop this Soviet motorcycle, not even its own brakes...

Why does the Ural or Dnepr motorcycle not start?

It is not uncommon for your “iron horse” to function differently than the manufacturer intended, or even worse, to refuse to work at all. However, “doesn’t work” is a rather collective concept, or as they say, a motorcycle won’t start “every family is unhappy in its own way...”. The Ural or Dnepr motorcycle won’t start, what should I do? In this regard, let's look at various types of problems regarding engine malfunctions.

Reasons why a motorcycle won't start

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Problems with carburetors, causes:

Lack of fuel in the carburetor.
Flooding (especially when the engine is hot).
Clogged faucet sump.
Illegal supply to the carburetor.
The carburetor jets are clogged.
Water getting into gasoline.
The float needle valve is dirty or leaking fuel.
The float is leaking.
The carburetor jet is not tightened properly.

When a motorcycle sits for a long time, it may not start. And they say: the Ural won’t start after winter. It may also have difficulty starting in cold weather. These reasons cannot be avoided, since this is an old motorcycle and everything in it is done according to the old system. There is still a solution to this problem - you just need to dig it thoroughly and then warm it up for at least 15 minutes. And do this in winter from time to time. Then it will start better

Problems with candles. There may be no spark or vice versa.

When there is no spark at the spark plug due to:

Candle breaking.
Incorrect marking of the gap between the contacts of the breaker, oiliness or burnt contacts of the breaker.
Lack of contact at the battery terminals.
Wire terminals are dirty.
Ignition coil malfunction.
Broken low voltage wire.

Many people ask the question: the Ural won’t start, but there is a spark?!

Then it’s worth addressing the situation with no or weak compression in the engine:

No clearance in the valve mechanism.
Faulty piston rings.
Looseness in the fit of the valves due to burnout of the plates or the formation of carbon deposits on them.

It is not uncommon to experience interruptions in engine operation, where the main reasons are:

Illegal supply to the carburetor.
The carburetor jets are clogged.
Water getting into gasoline.
The float needle valve is dirty or leaking fuel.
The float is leaking.
The carburetor jet is not tightened properly.

Also common problems:

Weak terminal tension on the battery.
Burnt or incorrect breaker contact gap.
There is no contact or the capacitor is broken.

The carburetor adjustment is incorrect. Knocks in the engine.

The reasons for this may be:

Incorrect ignition.
Engine overheating.
Breakage of piston pins, cylinders, pistons, main bearings.

Thus, if any of the above problems of motorcycle breakdown occur, you should pay attention to the functioning of the motorcycle as a whole. Indeed, as a result, technical problems can lead not only to driving difficulties, but also to affect the driver’s safety.

Ural video won't start

Shooting into the muffler with one cylinder.

Motor k750.
Suddenly there was a popping sound in the muffler as gas was being discharged from the left boiler. Then there were interruptions in the left cylinder. The problem grew worse over 10 km, then went away. Then I stood for a day, came to the garage, started the engine - the same symptoms - periodically shooting into the left silencer when releasing the gas and sneezing when working at idle. If you pull the cable of the right boiler, the set of revolutions is excellent and correct, if the left one, there is a set of revolutions, but with dips and sneezes. I turned the spark plug out - it’s new, the carbon deposits on the electrode are gray. Just in case, I installed another one - there was no improvement. By the way, the deposits on the second boiler are the same. I disassembled the distributor and cleaned the contact on the cover - it didn’t help. I started it on the right boiler, put a spark plug on the left one - the spark was stable and strong. I disassembled the carb without removing it from the motorcycle - the needle was at the top all the way, the jets were turned out and blown out. It didn't help either. 65e carbs. I tried to close the damper in the air vent - both boilers remained unchanged, I tried to leave the suction on the left boiler - the same thing. I don’t really want to try swapping carbs - it’s a bummer, has anyone encountered this? I bought an ICS today - I’ll try to look at the flashes in the boilers and the presence/absence of gaps. Could a lean mixture cause shots in the jammer? I don't think so. I also have a K750m, the same problem,

Fuel level in the float chamber, float hanging, gap and condition of breaker contacts and condition of distributor contacts

No, that’s not it - if you drown the float to the limit, the situation does not improve, the breaker does not, because The second one works well, the distributor seems to have been cleaned.

"HELP - BUG." Maybe graduation is late?

Shkolnik, still look at the distributor: if the contacts are close, there may be gaps in one cylinder because there are two cams on the shaft and therefore one cam can normally lift the moving contact and the other cannot. Try increasing the gap in the contacts a little, that should help.

To check the distributor, you need to plug a high-voltage switch from a poorly functioning boiler directly into the coil and try to start it on this boiler, right? If the work becomes normal, then we will pick at the distributor - is that what you mean?

The same nonsense on a 650 cc engine. The candles are black. Replacing the coil, cams and spark plugs did nothing. Can anyone give me some good advice on where the legs grow from?

Source

Quick diagnostics

Since in the future the problem of popping noises in the muffler can lead to breakdown of the engine and other important components of the motorcycle, it needs to be solved as quickly as possible. You should consistently check the performance of systems such as: intake, ignition, exhaust. All damaged parts are replaced with new ones, connections are sealed. It is also better to temporarily replace tuning components with “stock” ones to check how the engine will perform with factory settings. If all else fails, the motorcycle should be inspected by a professional mechanic, who will find the cause and tell you how to eliminate it at minimal cost and without reducing the life of the power unit.

A motorcycle shoots into the muffler - problem solving

Owners of motorcycles not only made in Russia, but also of foreign cars often face the problem of “shooting” from the muffler. This happens due to improper care of the air-fuel mixture ignition system. The motorcycle shoots the muffler in several cases:

when using low-quality gasoline;
malfunction of the electronics system responsible for fuel supply;
gasoline does not enter the combustion chamber in pure form;

In such cases, you don’t need to wonder why the muffler on a motorcycle shoots. Poor quality gasoline has a very high combustion temperature due to the addition of water, so it does not ignite completely. The remaining drops fall on the walls of the heated muffler . Their ignition creates pops.

The motorcycle also shoots into the muffler when releasing the gas. The lower the pressure created in the internal combustion chamber, the more droplets enter the muffler. On some bikes, fuel accumulates in the muffler, followed by rare but very loud bangs.

Most often, but not always, owners of the Russian motorcycle industry face this problem. For example, a Ural motorcycle shoots into the carburetor. This occurs due to direct clogging of gasoline in the carburetor itself. To avoid this problem, it is necessary to constantly clean the filters and change the consumables responsible for cleaning the engine. Proper operation of your bike will not only ensure good engine performance, but will also maintain factory specifications.

Reason and solution

The easiest way to get rid of pops on a carburetor motorcycle is to simply move the needle valve to a different position, changing the degree of saturation of the mixture with gasoline. It is better to entrust this operation to a specialist, since not everyone can fine-tune the carburetor. If there is electronic fuel injection, it is impossible to change the gasoline supply parameters yourself - the control unit will have to be flashed at a specialized service station.

It happens that the motorcycle shoots into the muffler and carburetor - this is often found on domestic Urals and imported choppers with a large cylinder capacity. The problem is a clogged air-fuel mixture at the inlet. To eliminate it, it is worth changing the filters and sealing gaskets, and also checking how tightly the pipes fit to the inlet fittings and whether there are any large cracks in them.

Why does the VAZ muffler shoot?

Domestic AvtoVAZ cars often suffer from similar shortcomings. If there is serious mileage at idle, shots in the muffler may indicate problems in the carburetor. The way out is to regulate the shaft play, replace the toggle switch or vacuum corrector already in the ignition system. But why does it shoot into the muffler when releasing gas in VAZ models?

The reason may well lie in a malfunction of the exhaust system itself. For example, low-quality atomizers oversaturate the cylinder or there is a lack of air in the fuel mixture. In both cases, replacement of functional elements - atomizer and filters - is required. If possible, it is worth trying to regulate the supply of the combustible mixture, but if similar phenomena are observed in normal mode, then the problem is obviously technical.

shoots at the jammer

Sathyros Sun, 08/07/2012 — 23:28

Good night! I'll write here. Same problem. The engine just doesn't want to work properly!!! Before the capital, I slammed into the carbs, now into the muffler. So, the initial data: 650 engine, IMZ forged pistons, aluminum cylinders - piston mileage - 700 km. carbs K68U Pekar Russia, 2nd season, everything is standard, GTZ - 190,

UKTUS-2 ignition.

Popping sounds appeared in the muffler when the gas was suddenly released after a good release of gas, and flames were already escaping from the muffler. It happens especially often when driving, when the speed drops slower after releasing the handle. The muffler is KBMTS stainless steel - essentially direct flow. Maybe this should be the case with direct flow? I’ve never dealt with it before... there’s no resistance. and with a sharp release of gas, a shitload of fuel is still spat into the combustion chamber, and the ignition is already delayed at low speeds. Or vice versa, the speed does not immediately drop, as happens when driving, but the throttles are closed and a rich mixture is drawn. although thinking like this, I don’t understand why there are no pops at all during normal operation)

Everything would be fine. but a week ago the compression in the left cylinder dropped - 6 instead of 11 as on the right. the chamfer on the exhaust valve burned out, I had to grind it in. And the heads are new, I ground all the valves together with installing the piston, i.e. We ran 700 km. I tightened the head, now the compression is 11 here and there. But it still shoots into the silencer!

Valve clearances are 0.05 when cold. I tried it on while it was hot - 0.18! This is probably due to the aluminum cylinders. What kind of clearance is needed with them?

Go ahead. The carbs are tuned, synchronized, brick soot, and turns black at idle. The needle is in the lowest position. XX and quality were adjusted with IKS-1: the screws were turned out about 1 or half a turn after the orange flame transitioned to blue. The only thing is that the gaskets are 1.5 mm paronite. I think the carbs are overheating quite a bit. But it doesn’t seem like they’re getting rich - there’s brick soot, I’m very pleased with the consumption.

The ignition is set to the mark. Yesterday I tried to do it earlier - I twist it even all the way to the right - there are still pops, but less! I left it a little early.

Why is it shooting??? The valves are ground in, the left one was literally 3 days ago. Ignition is normal. The carbs also work fine. True, the shots did not appear immediately. At first, I just didn’t do any sudden throttle changes at all. So I couldn't hear those pops. I remember noticing them for the first time after synchronizing the carbs. Well, as per the manual - with the rear wheel hanging out and the speeds equalized by the speedometer. Before this, it was synchronized by simultaneously opening the throttles by touch with your fingers. Although I don't think that's the reason...

Yes, a KBMTS classic paper air filter, if that matters too.

What do the shots affect?

Problems with the ignition system do not bode well. In such a situation, with prolonged engine operation, not only the aesthetic impression can deteriorate. A dirty carburetor or low-quality fuel will eventually disrupt cylinder compression, which in turn will lead to engine failure.

To understand why a Ural motorcycle shoots at the muffler, or any other bike, you should check the problem areas. Here are possible ones:

not tightness of the pipes that can suck in air, or the exhaust tract;
faulty spark plugs;
dirty air filters or carburetor;
difficulty in supplying fuel;

However, the problem may also be with the racers' rev limiter. The spark plugs do not charge continuously, causing most of the mixture to go straight into the exhaust system, where it hits the hot metal and ignites, creating a loud bang. A clear example of such a process is a motorcycle equipped for special show programs. On such bikes, some of the fuel mixture ignites directly in the exhaust pipe, which is why you can see a flame coming out of the muffler.

Under no circumstances should you install forward flow if you experience popping noises. This will only increase the noise in the exhaust system. This happens due to an even greater depletion of the fuel-air mixture and a “gutted” muffler.

In conclusion, we highly recommend watching a competent video about problems in the engine, where, among other things, the issue of shots into the muffler is covered in sufficient detail.

Popping sounds in the scooter carburetor - the main reasons

You can often notice popping noises coming from the carburetor, which may indicate a violation of the mixture formation and some problems with ignition. In any case, for normal operation of the scooter engine, the problem must be eliminated. Let's look at all the reasons in more detail.

Why do popping noises appear in a scooter carburetor?

So, we started the scooter, started adding gas and heard popping noises in the carburetor. Note that we are not talking about the exhaust pipe.

Popping noises in a scooter's carburetor usually indicate a lean mixture. Why did the mixture become lean suddenly, with the engine running normally? There may also be two reasons for this.

The first, and most common, is clogging of the carburetor, as a result of which air is supplied in the same amount, but much less gasoline, since the channel or nozzle is already blocked, although not completely, but still. Testing this theory is quite simple: close the inlet of the air filter by half the diameter. If after this the claps stop or become less intrusive, the reason for the depletion is obvious.

Another reason for a lean mixture in this case is air leaks. Additional air can pass through the connection of the pipe with the carburetor and damage the integrity of the pipe or filter. This theory is tested in the same way as with a clogged carburetor, the effect is the same.
The second reason for popping noises in a scooter’s carburetor is early ignition. Since the ignition on modern scooters is not regulated, this phenomenon is extremely rare, but it still occurs.

Knowing these main causes of popping noises in a scooter’s carburetor, you can correct the breakdown in a timely manner and prevent further malfunctions due to a lean mixture. And this, as a rule, means overheating of the engine and much more serious malfunctions, including jamming of the piston in the cylinder.

You can also read other articles on the topic:

The problem is common! The carbs are K-68u. This is why the right cylinder shoots into the carburetor. But the shooting is strange! You give it gas, it seems like it’s not noticeable, it rips, it works, but if you put it on the foot and engage 4th gear, pick up a speed of 50-40 km/h, approximately, turning off the right pot, the left one works like clockwork without interruption, and when the left one takes off the candlestick , then the right one starts shooting at the carb, but trying to gain speed and the pops are not strong, but because of this it doesn’t pick up speed right away, and it turns out that at the beginning when you accelerate, not much resonance is created, but at traction and at speed it is, of course, very good you can feel it! I tried the ignition, it doesn't help! Valves are adjusted! But I didn’t check for them to pass through! I tried setting the jets to 125 and 165, no change! I changed the diffuser tubes from 165 to 178! The needle was raised and lowered! The fuel screw was changed (screwed in, unscrewed). Write.

More precisely adjust the synchronization of the carburetors.

Instead of chewing the ignition, it would be logical to do something that has not yet been attempted, namely:

yes, I will need to unhook the cradle to remove the head and immediately change the head gasket! But not because of this. It’s better to ask who has encountered it))))

and synchronicity. I can’t achieve synchronization because it shoots into the carb.

Then think about what might cause the shooting, you are closer there. Put back all the old jets that you removed. The caburators must be the same.

Well, it doesn't want to start.

Good evening, comrades. I am writing in despondency, asking for your help, to indicate the reason that this unit needs to start.

I rode around in the spring and early summer, leaving behind a curtain of smoke. In July it went up for repairs. The repair lasted two months, because it was working and we had to wait a long time for spare parts by mail. I assembled everything, it was time for the first start (Saruman started it on the ignition system), it started with half a turn, but did not work for more than a minute, because... then it turned out that the optical sensor was defective ( https://cs319417.vk.me/v319417112/8ed5/ERQMD09WU0c.jpg ), okay, while I was waiting for a new optical sensor, I started it on the cams, but was not satisfied, and went to buy an DH from VAZ, you have to ride while the warranty opto-sensor is in the mail. I drove 50 km with the VAZ sensor, then again the LED on the switch did not blink, and therefore there was no spark, and besides, the generator started leaking ( https://cs304601.vk.me/v304601112/3c75/HJQncMzZEg8.jpg ), I went through everything, installed an oil seal from a Subaru, replaced the bearing with a new one, made in Slovakia, I couldn’t find better quality. But then an opto-sensor arrived by mail, but for some reason it no longer worked. I started installing the cams again to make sure that the generator was assembled and working correctly. Oops, everything started up, the generator was working, the lamp went out, charging was going on, but since I forgot to open the tap, it didn’t work for me for long either. Well, okay, I opened it, swung it, but then he declared a boycott. Further adjustment of the MH did not help. It's like he just died.

yeah what the. ignition

The time has come for me to unsubscribe in this section: It was like this, in the morning I happily stomped into the garage, after tinkering with the motorcycle a little, my friend and I decided to go for a ride on the outskirts of our city, he took his Dnieper with a cradle, I also hooked the cradle and we set off, In the end, about 50 km were covered, and the last 10 km I fucked with my Ural as best I could