Engine 164fml 200 cc valve adjustment

Engine 162 fmj repair

Hi all!
My name is Albert, I live in a small village in the Lipetsk region. Due to the (relatively) free time I have, I decided to start my own blog, it will mainly be dedicated to motorcycles. I love technology of any kind, be it a motorcycle, tractor, airplane, etc. I love driving fast outside of traffic regulations, I follow traffic rules and respect other road users. I constantly make things with my own hands. I will be glad to see everyone who is interested on my channel. About the video: I was recording the engine assembly on a GoPro3 Silver; during filming it turned off without any sound notification. We were only able to film the installation of the halves and the right housing with the clutch. Since I was assembling the engine late at night, I already wanted to sleep, and missed tightening the nuts on the cylinder. After many attempts to push start the bike, it started. The valves were knocking a little, I thought, I’ll drive for a while and then I’ll adjust them again. I drove this way for more than 40 kilometers. I noticed it only when I started the motorcycle a week later - smoke began to come out from under the head, and the entire cylinder was covered in oil. The valve clearances were more than a millimeter. So far this has not affected the operation of the engine, I hope everything will work out in the future.

Assembly takes place from 0:00 to 2:30, then a short trip to the nearest village.

Thanks to those who read to the end) See you again!

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help me please

help me please

20 Apr 2014, 19:23

Good day! Please help me deal with the problem. After removing the cylinder head (I drilled out the stud for fastening the exhaust elbow), with the cylinder head removed, I turned the piston a little to the top to clean it, then I put everything back in place and the infection does not start (there is a spark, the fuel is flowing) what could happen before removing the cylinder head, it started normally

Checked the valve clearance and it was normal.

Moto Eurotex Wing 150 engine 162fmj

Re: please help

20 Apr 2014, 20:17

Re: please help

21 Apr 2014, 05:47

Re: please help

21 Apr 2014, 08:18

Have you checked the compression? Check it out, you might be surprised. her absence. Damn, buddy, there are NO unnecessary parts in the motorcycle! The studs are important because they assemble the “crankcase-cylinder-head” package into a single whole. The absence of one of them will easily result in weakening of the joint, resulting in loss of compression.

Photo report: Adjusting valves on the 162 FMJ engine

On the vast majority of Chinese-made two-wheeled dump trucks, the camshaft drive is implemented by a chain. I don't know what this is connected with. Maybe with some canons of Feng Shui known only to the Chinese... Or maybe this drive scheme was not chosen by the Chinese by chance, but in order to reduce production costs or for fundamental reasons. I don’t know, and I have no particular desire to argue about this.

For me personally, as a person who is constantly involved in repairing this kind of junk, timing chain drive is not a very preferable technical solution. The chain is always a problem. I'll explain why. During engine operation, the chain gradually stretches due to which the valve timing shifts by a significant angle, which at one “wonderful” moment can reach a critical value and the piston, while the engine is running, will hit the valve with all the consequences...

Also, there are often cases when the chain simply breaks or jumps over the teeth or falls off, which in most cases also leads to the piston hitting the valve. In addition, the mere fact that to replace the chain you will have to remove and disassemble the entire engine or, for example, when removing the cylinder head you will have to re-install the valve timing, causes me great irritation.

But time passes, and to my great joy, small-capacity “Chinese” engines began to appear in our area, equipped with a 162 FMJ engine in which the valve drive is implemented by rods from two lower camshafts. Many will say that this scheme is a classic of the automotive industry, and therefore outdated, inert, etc. One cannot but agree with this, but only that this drive is outdated and inert. In everything else, including reliability, durability and ease of maintenance, it has never been and probably will not be equal.

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Adjustment

Preparing for work

Before starting the adjustment, let the engine cool for a couple of hours or roll it into a warm room if it was left in the cold. Blow dust off the valve cover connector with a blow gun and wipe it clean with a rag. On the left side of the motorcycle, unscrew the plugs on the generator cover - there are two of them.

Remove the valve cover. The valve cover is located immediately under the gas tank and is attached to the head with three 8mm bolts.

Setting the piston to top dead center on the compression stroke

We insert a key or a 14mm socket into the hole in the generator cover and slowly turn the engine counterclockwise (to the left) until the rod actuating the intake valve opens it.

Why is this necessary?

The fact is that this engine does not have marks that show us the position of the camshaft. In turn, the camshaft rotates somewhat slower than the crankshaft and becomes in the position we need: at the end of the compression stroke, when the valves are completely closed - every second revolution of the crankshaft.

Therefore, we crank the crankshaft until the intake valve opens. The intake valve opens at the beginning of the intake stroke, followed immediately by the compression stroke, and after the intake valve opens, we turn the crankshaft to the left until the mark on the generator rotor next to the English letter “T” is exactly in the middle of the upper inspection window in the generator cover. This will be the position of the crankshaft and camshaft we need when the piston reaches its highest position during the compression stroke.

Let's repeat the algorithm again

1. Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise
2. We control the moment when the rod comes out and opens the inlet valve
3. After opening the intake valve, we turn the shaft until the mark on the generator rotor next to the English letter “T” is strictly in the middle of the inspection window of the generator cover.

Engine 150cc 4t. 162FMJ CG-150cc timing rod 5sk (62x49.5) Motorcycles set

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Honestly, I don’t know where to ask this question, so I’ll create a new topic. The question itself is as follows: when riding in 5th gear, the motorcycle begins to either twitch or kick, and this happens when the gas is open to more than 40% of the throttle. That is, if you drive in 5th gear with gas from 0% (engine braking) to 30/40%, then nothing twitches and everything is absolutely smooth, but if you give gas in the same 5th gear more than 50%, then problems begin, and it seems like I noticed The more gas you give, the more often the bike kicks. I don’t even know how to describe these “kicks”: you’re driving, roughly speaking, with the throttle fully open, and somewhere around 8-15 seconds, it’s as if the traction disappears for a split second, which is why at speed the bike starts to slow down with the engine and you get a strong blow, although Maybe it’s something else; I couldn’t fully understand the specifics of this phenomenon. Moreover, this is observed ONLY in 5th gear, in all others you can drive it at least until the cutoff and nothing will twitch or kick. I don’t even know what to do with this anymore. There was a version with a lack of fuel in the float chamber of the carb, but it disappeared because in the same 4th gear the speed is much higher but nothing twitches there. Next, I was more suspicious of the gearbox, or rather the gears of 5th gear, but this option also seemed to have disappeared because when braking with the engine and when driving in 5th gear with low gas, everything is fine. Well, the last thing that came to my mind was the clutch, I don’t know what could be wrong with it, but I don’t seem to have any complaints about it, so I don’t know what to think. And I also think it’s worth mentioning strange sounds when engine braking, if you start engine braking in gears from 3 to 5, then some kind of clicking (grinding) occurs, sometimes it’s louder, sometimes quieter, but this always happens if you brake with the engine in 3, 4 and 5 gears, for some reason this doesn’t happen in 1st and 2nd, I don’t know if these problems are related to each other, but I couldn’t help but mention this problem because this clicking noise really bothers me. In general, I described it as best I could, I’m counting on your help because I’m not very good at this myself. Thank you in advance!

Good evening riders =)

disassembled the 162fmj 150k engine. it's time for assembly, I changed the crankshaft but ran into the same problem, I can't figure out where to put the spring, it's the same as on the adventure speed mechanism, only the diameter is smaller and stiffer..

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Motorcycle Pengcheng PC150-3B (No. 252)

The Pengcheng PC150-3B motorcycle (Batch No. 252) is manufactured in China by Ningbo Dongfang Lingyun Vehicle Manufacturing Co., Ltd. The company is located in Ningbo (Zhejiang Province, China).

General information

Manufacturer information

Specifications

Pengcheng motorcycle

• Pengcheng motorcycle
• Engine: 1P52FMH-V
• Displacement, cc: 107.0
• Power, kW: 4.6
• Number of places, people: 2
• Gross weight, kg: 155

• Pengcheng motorcycle
• Engine: 162FMJ-V2
• Working volume, cc: 149
• Power, kW: 8.2
• Number of places, people: 2
• Gross weight, kg: 282

• Pengcheng motorcycle
• Engine: 162FMJ-V2
• Working volume, cc: 149
• Power, kW: 8.2
• Number of places, people: 2
• Gross weight, kg: 282

• Pengcheng motorcycle
• Engine: 162FMJ-V
• Working volume, cc: 149
• Power, kW: 8.2
• Number of places, people: 2
• Gross weight, kg: 260

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• Power, kW: 7.8
• Number of places, people: 2
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• Engine: 162FMJ-V2
• Working volume, cc: 149
• Power, kW: 8.2
• Number of places, people: 2
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