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Bosch BR28-N1 voltage regulator.
Bosch generators are equipped with a charging regulator (voltage regulator Bosch BR28-N1 F00M 144 123) which is a single unit with carbon brushes (integral relay)
application in cars
BOSCH — F00M144123 — Generator regulator MB Actros 613 D614 D615 D616 D (668.331668.332)618 D818 D818 DA 4×4810 DT812 DT (670.398)813 D814 D815 D816 D (670.331670.332 )813 DA814 DA 4×4815 DA816 DA 4× 4 (670.431670.432)O 810O 814O 815 (670.373670.374)
BR28-N1, F 00M 144 123 for generator 4892318, 4892320 BOSCH engine Cummins 4ISBe185, 210, 285, 300.
Bosch - F 00M 144 123 - EL. VOLTAGE REGULATOR F 00M 144 123
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The regulator relay (RR) suddenly died + replacement
On June 1, a clear day finally arrived, after the crappy weather. He didn’t think for a long time, he cheerfully jumped onto the moto and slowly drove off wherever his eyes were looking.
I took a ride to the village of Yarskoye, which is on the border of the Tomsk and Kemerovo regions. The view is excellent, the sun is shining, the breeze is blowing, the motor is grumbling, I was rolling 60 km/h in 6th gear, looking around, taking pictures, in short, enjoying it.
Not on the way back, I began to notice that after stops (there were often), the starter no longer turns so happily, the main thing was that there were no prerequisites for this, everything always worked smoothly, in terms of electrics there were no complaints at all, not even my motorcycle) I corrected all the shortcomings even during winter preparation. Okay, I think the question is bullshit, I turned off the headlight, I think it might recharge, since I really stopped every 5 km, maybe the starter was drained... I got back without stopping, in the city I also went to a couple of places to stand and enjoy myself 
I went to the garage, casually decided to go pick up some samsa from my sunny friends from Uzbekistan, I got out, started it, yak-yak-yak, and the starter relay chirped. That's the trouble! - I thought. IT'S NOT SIMPLE! I ask 2 students to accelerate, 2nd, clutch, we stand. Not enough. Take two, acceleration, 1st, clutch, started! The students were a little stunned, but it’s not my fault! Chinese “silencers” are to blame. I arrive at the garage, charge the battery, while it’s charging, I eat Samosa and watch TV. I put on the tester, the voltage at idle is 12.6v, 5000 rpm 13.1v. and all this without any load. I turn off the switch, inspect the wiring, everything is ideal on the RR output chips, minus the frame norms, the contacts on the battery are fine, what does it need? I'm betting on resistance, everything on the generator coils is within the resistance tolerance, the only thing that confused me was that the insulation of the wires to the generator chip began to “slip” and the chip in the middle part became slightly yellow. So, the battery is charged, it shouldn’t harm my brain, so I start it. 2 minutes at idle, it is impossible to touch the regulator relay, the wires from the genes begin to heat up. And such a smell came, I sniffed it, and it smelled of mist on my grandmothers... :)))) Holy shit! For what?!!! I've been licking you all winter. Frustration, despondency... I took the battery and went home. I put the battery on low-current charging, since it was necessary to take it for testing, otherwise there was a possibility that the relay would take it with it. During testing, everything turned out to be normal, the starting current exceeds 200A, the voltage at rest is 12.85 V. The search for RR began, I picked it up from the catalog, price tags 12+t.r. It became even sadder. The next day we went for a ride on a scooter with some music, and somehow fate brought us to a familiar biker with a biker wife. After listening to my whining, she said, why the fuck are you brains, in Novosibirsk there are trusted dudes who sell ready-made products, or Another option, in the same place, but others also solder the homemade iron without any complaints. At first I made a face, because I had already placed an order on Moto-all.ru, for Relyukha TOURMAX RGU-114, just for the injection bird 99.00. But there was no call back for 3 days. But summer won’t wait, time is ticking! I took the risk of making a phone call, I didn’t want to take a completely unclear pig in a poke, what was they soldering from?! Idk! when trying to find out at least which components the relay is assembled on, or to find out their characteristics, we ended up with the phrase “trade secret”... This means that the option disappears, since you can make a self-propelled gun yourself and at several times cheaper, and you can buy it yourself and be sure of it. Fortunately, a friend talks about this topic; he has already converted a generator on a scooter to a shunt RR of his own manufacture; it has been working for 5 years without any complaints. The only option left is “factory Novosibirsk relays”, warranty, technical. support, everything... I'm calling, oink, I need a relay!...... no question! what a spendthrift?, throw in some money, I’ll send it in a day. UUUUUFFFF... but the situation may get better, the price tag is 3500 rubles, the relay is designed for 1 kW, delivery by express bus AT THE MANUFACTURER’S EXPENSE))) well, that’s okay! I threw off the money, the next evening I already held it in my hands for 2 hours, and the relay works on the motor! More on this later...
The relay completely matches the overall dimensions and fits BOLT ON, but for me aesthetics almost comes first in this matter. I will describe the process of installing it according to the instructions from the “manufacturer”, with some of my changes and additions and dubious improvements. The relay is made well, the wires have a very large cross-section. Covered with rubber (similar to PlastiDip) to prevent corrosion. There is a bundle of wires from it, three phases, plus, minus.
To begin with, we try on the relay in a standard mount, roughly think about how and where the wires from it will be laid, in what places there will be connections.
Yaroslav (I bought a relay from him, I’ll leave a link below) advised me to do the following, remove the chips from the generator and solder them directly, plus to the input contact of the starter relay so as not to pile up the positive terminal of the battery, for which I already soldered an eyelet on the positive wire, well and minus, respectively, to the minus battery.
I was not happy with this scheme that the input chip with the RR in the wire would remain idle, why not use it as a backup? cut off the chip from the burnt RR
Again, disputes arose with Yaroslav about connecting the wires; I planned to solder the wires + crimp them on top with a copper tube in order to eliminate the detrimental effect of vibration on the soldering area. I was firmly convinced that I was doing crap. Since it was Sunday and the stores were closed, I decided that I would really just get by with soldering.
Without breaking the main wire, I wound up the cut chip from the old relay.
Let's solder it! The 100W soldering iron coped with this task with some difficulty.
Then it was heat-shrink, the little blue one was of crappy quality, I had to do it in 2 layers.
It was a pity to cut the negative wire to length, so I extended a branch to the (-) terminal of the battery and ran the main one to the negative terminal of the frame. It won't be redundant. More contact, better protection from trouble.
I found insulation from old wiring from scooters, borrowed wires, terminals, etc. The result is something like the following.
Estimate the difference in the cross-section of the wires, the thin ones are standard ones from the generator, the thick ones are from the “Novosibirsk” relay
Everything is according to the old scheme, heat-shrink, with electrical tape on top.
Since there were more terminals on the terminals, to save nerves when screwing the bolts into the battery terminals, I made spacers for the nuts so that everything would be screwed in easily and without nerves.
Just in case, we check the battery again before installation. 12.85 is still there, it hasn’t gotten any less.
To be sure, I polished the terminals on the wiring.
I connected the terminal from the RR between the standard ones for the wiring and the power one for the internal combustion engine. I brought the positive one through the standard case.
Based on the placement of wires and relays, the following picture is obtained.
The original feature was hidden behind the relay.
We start the engine, the only load is the dimensions, and everything else for the operation of the injection system. 14.41 single. (1100 rpm)
At five thousand 14.37V more than a beat! We turn on the load, after 15 minutes, the relay is barely warm. (Yarik! I’m writing for you!!!! IT’S BARELY WARM!)
Now this spectacle is not for the faint of heart, labor electricians should close their eyes! This does not fit into any feng shui. I found a working computer cooler in the garage, 60x60mm, and hung it on clamps so as not to leave traces of its presence for a possible future.
After the installation, I went for a drive (for one thing and to test the device), the bell rang, Yaroslav called to ask how the installation went and how the relay worked, in vain I said about the fan, how many sarcastic comments I heard from him, and convictions that it is needed urgently remove it, that it does not need it, everything will become clogged with dirt, the cooler will stop, dirt will get on the contacts, etc. No matter how I tried to explain that this was exclusively my choice, my desire, he did not want to listen and understand me, supposedly if someone saw his relay with a fan, the entire reputation accumulated over the years would go to waste... :))) I did not deviate from my own, it will hang until the cooler dies. It will be 40 degrees hot, cooling is definitely not too much! Less wear on components. But this is all theory, DO NOT do it like I did! if you don’t want to look like a handyman in the eyes of professionals! It cost me a boil for the whole evening and night.
That's all! everything works, everything lights up, the signal has become louder, I will watch how it works, and soon I plan to install a voltmeter on the panel.
Good luck to everyone on the roads!
P.S. who has problems with PP, please contact https://vk.com/flysl - Yaroslav! Ask for the phone number yourself. Special thanks to him!
