Quite often, motorcyclists encounter this problem: the steering wheel bends after a fall. Some fans of driving with the breeze, as well as auto mechanic specialists, believe that it is impossible to properly align the part on their own; other drivers are of the opposite opinion. The article discusses whether it is possible to solve a similar problem on your own.
- Is it possible to bend the handlebars of a motorcycle?
- How to straighten the steering wheel yourself Video: Straightening the steering wheel after a fall
- What could be the consequences?
Is it possible to bend the handlebars of a motorcycle?
It is, of course, undesirable to bend the steering wheel. But not everything depends on the driver, and hardly anyone does it at will. The most common cause of such a problem is a vehicle fall. This is especially true for cross-country motorcycles or enduro-type cars.
Did you know? At motorcycle racing in Northern Ireland, in the event of an accident, doctors on motorcycles are the first to come to the aid of the victim. Their average speed is 290 km/hour.
It should be said right away that the curvature of a part can be completely different - it’s one thing when only the steering wheel is deformed. In this case, you are allowed to straighten it yourself; the chances of a successful operation are quite high. A completely different option, in which, as a result of an impact, the fork legs and yokes are bent. If you can straighten the second part in a garage, then putting the first part in order on your own is an extremely difficult task, bordering on impossible.
The essence of the problem
Most often, loud pops in the muffler of two-wheeled vehicles are heard when a lean mixture is supplied to the engine. The reason for its formation may be the use of low-quality gasoline, saturated with water and non-flammable impurities, or incorrect adjustment of the intake system. The air-fuel mixture burns only partially - its remains splash out into the hot muffler, where they explode with sharp, unpleasant sounds. A symptom of a lean mixture is popping sounds in bursts, which intensify as the speed increases.
In powerful motorcycles, the completely opposite problem is more common, associated with the supply of an excessively rich mixture. There is not enough oxygen for its combustion, which leads to the deposition of gasoline condensate on the walls of the muffler. When the “critical mass” is reached, the fuel outside the engine ignites, resulting in one loud bang. If the problem is not corrected, within 1–2 months the contents of the muffler will simply burn out and it will turn into a “direct flow”.
Incomplete combustion of the mixture may be caused by a malfunction of the ignition system. In the absence of a spark, the cylinder misses a power stroke and the full amount of gasoline enters the muffler. Loud sounds are most often heard in this case at high speeds. The problem is also fraught with complete burnout of the muffler from the inside. Misfires are often accompanied by beautiful visual effects - when the engine is overloaded, jets of flame fly out of the exhaust pipes.
Another option is a lean mixture in the intake system caused by air, dirt or water getting into it. Naturally, the fuel does not burn completely and drops of gasoline form on the walls of the muffler, burning with a sharp, characteristic sound. In any case, the motorcycle malfunction must be repaired as soon as possible so as not to encounter more serious repairs.
How to straighten the steering wheel yourself
So, if only the steering wheel itself is bent, you should try to solve the problem yourself. There is an opinion that to do this it is enough to remove the seat, tank and handle on the side on which the steering wheel is bent. Next, using a fairly long and strong lever (for example, a fork leg from another motorcycle), placed on the part from the deformed side, try to align the part.
But it should be said that with this approach, by eye, it is very difficult to achieve an acceptable result. You may be able to restore the part in such a way that visually it will be perfectly smooth. However, this does not mean that the steering wheel will actually become balanced - the slightest misalignment (0.5–1 cm) is enough for you to feel a significant imbalance in control when driving.
Due to a fall or impact of the motorcycle, the following situation may arise: the steering wheel is level, in a neutral position, and the wheel is turned to the side. This circumstance can cause the fork legs to rotate in the yokes. To correct the problem, you need to loosen the traverse bolts and set the wheel straight, strictly perpendicular to the steering wheel. If, after completing the procedure described above, you come to the conclusion that only the steering wheel is skewed, it should be straightened.
Important! There should be notches at the point of contact between the steering wheel and the racks to prevent the part from turning in the mount. If there are none, wrap the clamp area with a thin strip of sandpaper
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this contributes to a more stable fixation of the part.
Removing the part may vary slightly on different motorcycle models, but in general it looks like this:
- Remove all remote controls and controls. Usually it is enough to loosen a few bolts on the reverse side. You don’t have to completely unscrew them, just loosen and tighten the device or mechanism. Various wires and hoses do not need to be disconnected.
- Lay a thick cloth on the tank, on which you will need to place the dismantled components and mechanisms so as not to leave marks on the paint. Then you need to unscrew the racks.
- Next you need to remove the handles. Difficulties may arise when dismantling the left one: since it simply sits on the pipe, sometimes it is secured with glue. Often this is a fairly strong connection; simply twisting and tightening is not enough. You will have to use a knife or a thin screwdriver, which must be inserted between the pipe and the handle, and thus try to break the connection.
- Remove the steering wheel and try to visually determine the bend location. Inspect the item carefully. Most likely, you will be able to detect a crumple zone.
- Secure one side in a vice, and put a lever on the other and bend the steering wheel, trying to give it its original configuration. Take your time and perform the operation in several stages.
- After each bending, check the bending of the part in this way: place a bench square on a flat surface so that the scale is vertical. Place the steering wheel with its frontal plane on the table so that the center of the edge of the part pipe is next to the square scale. Measure the distance to a millimeter first on the undeformed side, then bend the curved part until the same indicator is obtained.
- When the part becomes smooth, it needs to be installed on the motorcycle. The procedure is the reverse of what you did when dismantling it.
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Video: Straightening the steering wheel after a fall
What could be the consequences?
First of all, it should be said that driving with such a steering wheel is very uncomfortable. In addition, depending on the degree of curvature of the part, it is unsafe. The point is not only in the unusual procedure for driving the vehicle - driving with a skewed control mechanism, especially on a two-wheeled vehicle, is simply dangerous. The usual feeling of the steering wheel is lost, and therefore the reaction to a possible obstacle is lost. So the problem needs to be corrected immediately after it appears. You can, of course, hear the opinion that you get used to everything, such riding is possible, it just requires certain skills. But it’s better not to get used to this, the maximum you should go to with a deformed steering wheel is to a garage or service station.
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BMW F650 ST - PROS AND CONS
The most invaluable advantage of this motorcycle is its simplicity. Almost everything can be fixed “on your knees”. The use of two carburetors and two spark plugs per cylinder does not significantly complicate its design, but increases reliability due to overlapping systems. In all other respects, it is as simple as three kopecks - chassis, engine, electronics.
This is one of the most economical motorcycles of this capacity - even if you puke on the ground in second gear at full throttle, the consumption will not exceed 4.7 liters. The tank is enough for at least 350 km. A very large reserve reserve - for 70-100 km of economical travel. Bezin is 92nd, that is, there will be no problems with fuel anywhere in the world. You can drive the 95, but I didn’t notice any significant improvements in engine performance. The 76 is difficult to digest, starts poorly, pulls poorly and vibrates a lot, but still goes. Oil consumption - for me personally it was about one hundred grams of Motul per 10,000 km. Consumption, again, depends on the brand of oil - automotive semi-synthetic Total 15W50 is not consumed at all during the period between changes (10,000 km). By the way, the engine works noticeably better on semi-synthetic automobiles. The air filter is made of ordinary fine oiled foam rubber, hidden under the sidewalls in a place hard to reach for dirt and water, and does not get splashed when moving along the hub in water. In almost any conditions, it can be replaced with anything, even an oiled rag or women's tights. The clutch is mechanical, on a cable, adjustable with a wheel located near the handle - very convenient. The light is beyond praise, it can be adjusted in a minute using a thumbwheel under the fairing. It is better to immediately install a high-brightness lamp, such as a standard-power Philips Vision. The tank is plastic, that is, it will never become clogged due to rust, and if damaged, it can be easily soldered with a soldering iron or a hot nail without degassing, even in camping conditions. There is no fuel pump, which means it will never clog or break. A sufficiently powerful generator (alternator) - even at idle, the battery will not discharge when the fan is running and the high beams are on. When idling for a long time, the engine does not overheat. The motorcycle has a very quiet exhaust - you don’t get tired of the noise when riding for a long time at a speed of 120-130 km/h. The rear shock absorber is very reliable. Adjustable with a thumbwheel near the engine. The ass of the motorcycle can be loaded like Sidorov's goat. The fork is moderately stiff, despite the small stroke compared to rally enduro ones, and in 18 thousand of operation it has never broken through. The fork seals are not leaking, I think that at least one more season I don’t have to look at them. It’s better to immediately put the corrugations on the fork, which fit perfectly from the ZiD “Owl”. As for driving performance: the dynamics are very decent, allowing you to keep up with the “big” BMW 1150 GS in traffic. The motorcycle easily gets into the spark plug from the gas, which, thanks to the “dry” sump, has no consequences for the engine. When you fall, there is also no oil starvation. The chassis is simply ideal and will not yield to any “serious” endura bike - the bike holds the road perfectly and “forgives” getting into asphalt holes at speed, which would inevitably destroy the alloy wheel. On an unbroken dirt road you can maintain a stable speed of “over a hundred”; on a wet, broken road – about 70 km/h. At least on the dirt road, of the three motorcycles (Yamaha XT-600, Yamaha TDM), the BMW was the fastest. It’s better not to get into outright shit - the bike, if anything, is quite heavy, but on “evil” tires it will go anywhere. Unlike the GS, it has a low saddle, and the saddle is so comfortable that the third point does not irritate or hurt. You will appreciate its "lowness" if you drive on gravel or on a muddy clay dirt road when you have to "beat" with your feet. It steers very easily, it’s just as easy to get to the footrests, and in general it behaves very predictably, even under heavy overload, when the center of gravity shifts up and back, and this is very important for traveling.
Here are the weak points of this motorcycle that I noticed: When shifting into high gear too early, the engine makes a rumble, very reminiscent of the sound made by a connecting rod when the bearing is destroyed and it seems that the motorcycle will immediately fall apart, but do not be alarmed ahead of time - this is the normal operation of a single-cylinder Rotax engine, the transmissions are just very “short”. What do you want from a single-cylinder 650 cc motorcycle with a KAMAZ-sized piston? At first I was also scared and turned to my friends who had the same motorcycle - they smiled and said: “Get used to it, it’s a BMW.” The engine itself is quite noisy (the sound at idle is reminiscent of a small helicopter), so it requires the use of high-viscosity oil - the manufacturer recommends 20W-40, however, it is not always possible to get such motorcycle semi-synthetics. The engine also clearly does not like Motul - after nine thousand kilometers the oil became completely black and more deposits appeared on the magnetic drain plug than usual and the gearbox began to work intermittently at the fifth thousand - this defect immediately disappeared after replacing it with Total 15w-50 automotive semi-synthetic . Carburetors are the weak point of the Estehi: the idle speed floats for almost everyone, and removing the line of two carbs is very difficult (but possible) without removing the hefty air filter receiver, removing which means disassembling half of the motorcycle. Adjusting the idle speed is also not an entirely simple task - the mixture quality screws on Mikuni carburetors are located in deep vertical wells, which can only be accessed from below by touch, I even had to make a special L-shaped screwdriver from an 8-centimeter nail. True, the good news is that the speed (amount of mixture) is regulated simultaneously on two carbs with a bolt on a cable dangling near the frame, and if you get the hang of it, you can do this with your left hand, without even getting off the motorcycle. And don’t believe those who tell you that poor idle is due to the fact that the synchronization has not been done - the carbs are designed to work at different ranges of engine operation, and their “synchronization” will lead to the fact that the motorcycle may not run at all . Two carburetors per cylinder, this, in addition to elasticity of operation throughout the entire speed range, also allows you to get anywhere if one of the membranes breaks; after all, this is a “professional” touring motorcycle at its core. In short, with carbs everything is quite simple - you remove it, check the membranes, blow it out, unscrew both idle speed screws 3.5 turns from the fully screwed position, check the integrity of the rubber inlet pipe, reassemble, set the screw to 1400 rpm, and go. Gas tank - unlike the GS, it is located according to the classical layout, i.e. on top, not under the seat. This increases the center of gravity of the motorcycle, but this is not the main problem. The jamb is the system for communicating the tank with the atmosphere; it easily becomes clogged, most likely because the tube going down from the neck of the tank is often pinched. Dirt accumulates in a narrow place, and the already small hole becomes blocked, especially after moisture gets there. This appears after driving in heavy rain or after refueling if gasoline gets into the plastic fitting protruding next to the tank neck on the seat side. If your motorcycle suddenly stalls and a spark kills the elephant and the tank is switched to reserve, the most likely reason is a clogged tank ventilation system. This is easy to check by opening the gas tank cap, because gasoline flows into the carbs by gravity. Therefore, it is good to install an additional transparent gas filter (preferably a diesel one, it has a higher throughput and does not become clogged with water) in the area of the fuel tap - and everything will be immediately visible. Blowing with high pressure helps clear the blockage for a while, but it is better to find this tube and clean it and at the same time the fitting and valves on the gas tank cap, otherwise you will have to drive with the cap open and breathe in gasoline vapors. Bearings - this is where BMW engineers clearly decided to save money. Nothing has caused me as much grief as they have. You must always remember that the service life of the original wheel bearings is 15-20 thousand km, the service life of the star support bearing is not much longer. If the rear sprocket begins to dangle, this already gives reason to pay attention to this bearing, otherwise the dangling sprocket may jam the chain that is a little short, as was the case in my case. If the star support bearing begins to crumble, the bushing on which it is mounted also wears out, which cannot be treated without a lathe, and this is already serious. Therefore, these units need to be carefully monitored, and it is better to always have a pair of wheel bearings and support bearings in stock, at least of Russian production. By the way, when we pulled out the wheel bearings, the inscription “RUSSIA” proudly appeared on them. Experts said that in fact these bearings are Chinese, and I was about to punch the motorcycle seller in the face until I read on the website faq.f650.com that American BMW owners who bought new motorcycles and had them serviced by an official dealer also encountered the same bearings . Apparently, the fault lies with the manufacturer itself - the BMW company, so you need to either “butt heads” with them, or immediately replace all the bearings with normal ones. By the way, absolutely all bearings on this motorcycle have Russian counterparts. The electronics are all very reliable, with the exception of the side stand sensor, which I tore off after 2 thousand km. I just shorted the wires, wrapped them with electrical tape and I drive to this day without any problems or hassles with the ignition. The rear light - it fell off almost immediately for me, since the motorcycle is loaded with increased vibrations, which are only amplified by the mud shield located under the light. I replaced the flashlight with another one of a similar shape, installing it through a centimeter-long foam rubber gasket. You can also further strengthen the mud shield by screwing a metal strip to it from the inside for rigidity. It is better to immediately rewind with electrical tape and collect all (all!) wires into bundles, especially the wires going under the seat from the alternator to the switch, and even better to throw out the connecting block at the same time, soldering the wires, since a large current flows through them, causing heating and melting pads, which can cause the commutator or alternator windings to burn out - I won’t say what consequences this may have. It is also better to wrap all the engine hoses properly with electrical tape, since they rub against the plastic and frame during vibrations - you can unexpectedly catch problems out of the blue. Plastic - if we are talking about using a motorcycle under travel conditions, that is, about long runs on different types of roads at different speeds, then it is worth thinking about its reliable fastening - all the bolts securing the sidewalls and fairing to the tank must be seated with thread sealant, otherwise they will unscrew due to vibrations. It is better to coat all overlapping plastic joints with silicone sealant, otherwise the paint will wear off due to vibrations. Fastening the windshield is a separate issue: BMW engineers clearly did not think this through, since the bolts that attach the windshield to the fairing are inserted into nuts covered with rubber and inserted into large round holes in the fairing. When the bolt is tightened, the rubber compresses and bulges out from the back of the plastic. This system is disposable, since the rubber breaks after two or three glass removals; in addition, it wears out from vibrations and the glass may simply fall out. In addition, dirt and sand get between the glass and the dashboard visor, and since everything vibrates, the windshield at the mounting points wears out and becomes dull - again, it is better to lubricate everything there with transparent silicone sealant. Mirrors - God forbid you lose your own branded mirrors - whatever you put in place will fall off and break, again, from vibrations. However, I have not tried iron mirrors. When there is an increased load (passenger or cargo), it is necessary to tighten the rear shock absorber as tightly as possible, otherwise, due to the huge travel of the rear suspension, the plastic trough under the seat can easily be rubbed with rubber, and the chain guide will also fall apart in this case. The standard windshield does not protect a driver above average height from either the wind or the midges that cover the helmet visor; it is better to immediately change it to a tall, tuned one or install an additional screen. Standard arches do not protect the plastic from falls. Arcs from third-party manufacturers that I have seen are also so-so. I made the arches at the factory, where they welded me “ears” that covered the sides of the plastic; when I fell in place with the side bags on the motorcycle, there was not a single scratch. Without these “ears” the plastic would inevitably crack. Well, spare parts - try to buy anything for a BMW, except consumables, even in such big cities as Moscow and St. Petersburg.
I think the cross-country run brought out the good and bad qualities of this bike quite well. In general, to be honest, I didn’t find the more “enduristic” GS to have any special advantages over the “road” “Esteha”, at least according to my feelings. All my impressions of the BMW F650 ST can be expressed in one phrase - it is optimal for tourism on asphalt and dirt roads without driving into shit, in terms of rationality and practicality and a combination of driving and consumer qualities, it rivals all the vehicles that I have driven before.
Is it better to go to a service station?
Naturally, if damage to the steering occurs, it is better to turn to professionals. As already mentioned, you should try to fix the problem yourself only if the steering wheel is bent. But quite often this damage is accompanied by deformation of the feathers or traverses, sometimes both.
In such a situation, it is more advisable to trust the experts who deal with such breakdowns professionally. The point is not whether you can eliminate the deformation yourself, but the fact that such damage requires the highest quality solution. The steering mechanism is the most important system of any vehicle, not to mention a motorcycle - after all, when driving a two-wheeled vehicle, the slightest mistake can cost your life. In addition, incompetent intervention may lead to the fact that it will no longer be possible to correct the deformation and you will have to buy a new part.
Is it worth buying a new steering wheel?
The decision about whether purchasing a new steering wheel is necessary can only be made on a case-by-case basis. If the damage is minor and has been repaired correctly, this is not necessary. If the curvature is severe, you tried to fix it yourself several times, but as a result did not achieve the desired result, you may have to purchase a new steering wheel. The reason for this is the formation of microcracks in the metal, which form during intense and frequent deformation that occurs in attempts to align the part without the proper skills.
Before installing the painted steering wheel, the paint layer, which should be under the gas handle, must be cleaned and polished, and then lubricated with machine oil.
If the steering wheel becomes bent, you can try to straighten it yourself, but only if the deformation is insignificant and the reason is only in the steering wheel (the fork stays are intact). If the damage is more serious, then it is better to contact a service station that deals with such things. Do not forget that a motorcycle is a rather unsafe form of transport and there cannot be any trifles here, especially in matters related to control.
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Reason and solution
The easiest way to get rid of pops on a carburetor motorcycle is to simply move the needle valve to a different position, changing the degree of saturation of the mixture with gasoline. It is better to entrust this operation to a specialist, since not everyone can fine-tune the carburetor. If there is electronic fuel injection, it is impossible to change the gasoline supply parameters yourself - the control unit will have to be flashed at a specialized service station.
It happens that the motorcycle shoots into the muffler and carburetor - this is often found on domestic Urals and imported choppers with a large cylinder capacity. The problem is a clogged air-fuel mixture at the inlet. To eliminate it, it is worth changing the filters and sealing gaskets, and also checking how tightly the pipes fit to the inlet fittings and whether there are any large cracks in them.
Very often, popping noises appear after replacing the muffler with a non-standard one or cutting holes in it to eliminate resistance to escaping exhaust gases. Particularly unpleasant sounds appear when installing a “direct flow”. The reason is the creation of a strong vacuum, which leads to a lean air-fuel mixture. Powerful imported motorcycles often use an exhaust gas afterburning system, which reduces their toxicity - after removing the standard muffler, its operation becomes clearly audible. To eliminate shots after changing the silencer, you must:
- Reconfigure the carburetor or reflash the control unit;
- Install filters with a different capacity;
- Disable the exhaust gas afterburning system.
On sports motorcycles whose engines run at high speeds, the problem with shots may be related to the speed limiter or crankshaft speed limiter. When a certain indicator is reached, the fuel supply may remain unchanged for some time, while the number of flares is reduced. Accordingly, a huge amount of gasoline enters the muffler, which explodes with a jerky sound, forming a “machine gun burst.” It can be heard especially well when releasing the gas after active acceleration. It is impossible to eliminate such a problem without reducing the life of the engine - you have to change your driving style so as not to irritate yourself and others with unpleasant loud bangs.
It is worth paying attention to the ignition system - missed flashes may be due to its malfunction. Carefully inspect the high-voltage wires - there should be no cracks or peeling of the insulation on them. After unscrewing the spark plugs, check to see if there is a specific deposit on their surface that appears when using low-quality gasoline or when the ignition timing is set incorrectly. If the motorcycle is equipped with an electronic ignition system, the problem can often be solved by reprogramming the control unit. Some motorcycle owners decide to make drastic changes by installing a new control unit with preset sport settings - this solves the problem of shots in the muffler, and also increases engine power and improves dynamic characteristics.
