The Stels brand appeared on the Russian market back in the last century. Initially, the company assembled bicycles, but since 2007 it has expanded production to motorcycles. Some parts are ordered in China, but the main components are assembled in Russia. The range of products offered to consumers is constantly expanding. In 2006, the developers introduced the Delta 150 model.
A road bike with a good power reserve, good performance and an affordable price.
Specifications
According to the passport data, the maximum speed is 100 km/h.
But according to user reviews, the figure can be increased at least twice by installing other “stars”. But after 100 the motorcycle loses power and accelerates further very reluctantly.
Fuel consumption
Fuel consumption during city driving does not exceed 4 liters.
This largely depends on the quality of the canvas and driving style. Basically the figure is around 3 liters .
Acceleration to hundreds (dynamic performance)
Speaking of dynamics, it is worth noting that the motorcycle is assembled for city driving in compliance with all traffic rules.
But according to reviews, you can accelerate to 100 in 6–9 seconds.
Advantages and disadvantages of the model
The Stealth Vortex 150 has a number of advantages and disadvantages that you need to familiarize yourself with before purchasing the equipment. The advantages of a scooter include:
- Good dynamics.
- Reliable braking system and soft suspension.
- Availability and low cost of spare parts.
- Cheapness of the technology itself.
- Small dimensions and weight.
- Many additional useful features included in the basic package.
The scooter also has disadvantages, however, there are not many of them. Some drivers consider the equipment too capricious and disobedient, others complain about the fragility of the plastic and the short warranty period (about 10 thousand kilometers). In general, the model makes a positive impression, notable for its unpretentiousness, maneuverability, low fuel consumption and build quality.
Dimensions and weight
The light weight and compactness of the motorcycle are a huge plus for driving around the city.
External characteristics are shown without mirrors, for which, due to the inclination, it is difficult to indicate the maximum height. The motorcycle has:
- length - 2061 mm;
- width - 725 mm;
- height - 1119 mm;
- seat height - 781 mm.
Ground clearance and wheelbase are 144 and 1320 mm, respectively.
Motorcycle weight:
- dry - 110 kg ;
- equipped - 120 kg ;
- With a maximum permissible load of 270 kg .
Flaws
The original head optics shine frankly poorly; many people immediately install a headlight from a Ural.
According to many owners, there can be no shortcomings here, but design features can cause problems.
- The first thing that is noted is its light weight . On a bridge or in a strong crosswind, it is very difficult to maintain a straight line. The gyroscopic effect is in many cases small,
- In second place is weak light . If the seller immediately offers to replace the light bulb in the headlight, you need to agree. At the same time, developers do not recommend installing LEDs or xenon. Electrical circuits are not designed for this, and if something shorts out, it will not be considered a warranty case.
- Fuel quality . Despite the Russian assembly, it is not recommended to fill gasoline below 95.
As with any purchase, you need to check that all bolts are present and the wiring is secure in place.
and dignity
In general, “Stealth” shows itself to be worthy both in dynamic driving around the city and in long-distance driving.
The advantages of Russian technology, as a rule, include efficiency
- With a small tank, the driver can travel up to 200–250 km .
- Price . The cost of maintenance and repairs is well balanced. Russian production implies a choice of components, and the relatively old age of the model is their availability even in remote areas.
- Convenience . Regardless of a single rider or with a passenger, short or long distance, the saddle is quite comfortable. But the absence and impossibility of installing wind protection is often noted.
Hi all. I’ll get ahead of myself, and for the haters of Chinese technology, I’ll immediately write: IT WAS GIVEN TO ME and I didn’t buy it. Now the review itself. I wrote it in the middle of the season, that’s why it comes first, but at the end there will be the results of the season. The purpose of this story is to quickly share impressions (good and not so good) and information for those who want to buy such equipment. Backstory: I got into a car accident, and therefore my beloved Ruff was sold to good people, and I was left without a two-wheeled friend, I can’t buy anything in return yet, opportunities don’t allow it. I walked and grieved. Here in September 2014, my father-in-law’s friends, football players, chipped in and for some reason gave him a brand new Stels Tactic 150 scooter from the store. My father-in-law is an active guy, an athlete, he doesn’t sit idle, but motorcycling is not his thing at all, + you need a license, but the category is not open, and there is no time to ride. As a result, this Stealth stood for a year in a warm box without moving at all, and in September 2015 it was given to me as a gift at the very end of the season. I’m not a fan of scooters and especially Chinese technology, but I won’t hide it, I was happy, despite the lack of fish and cancer, it’s a fish, and besides, 150 cubic meters, for a moped that’s not a bad cubic capacity, and besides, it’s completely new, they only started it in the showroom when they bought it. Okay, I'll endure it and fall in love. If you don’t like it, I’ll take him to the dacha with my son for a ride. I’ll omit the hemorrhagic moments with compulsory motor liability insurance, diagnostic card and registration; I’ll write to those who need it separately. The scooter was manufactured in '13 and sat in the showroom for a year before it was bought for my father-in-law, hence the need for a diagnostic card. I’ll still get distracted by its manufacture, there’s a lot of money here, from 1200 to 3000 rubles, in the end I went myself to the point where maintenance is carried out and for 250 rubles I got it after officially passing a technical inspection, they actually only looked at lighting devices, first aid kits, etc. need to. Yes, I registered him, he’s wandering around the gates, this is not my topic, especially since I have rights. There was quite a bit of equipment; among the mopeds there was a half-dollar Honda Dio long ago, of which we have extremely good memories as a reliable and reliable friend. I have an absolutely equal attitude towards Chinese technology, neither good nor bad, I drove a lot from a friend’s BM Motard without any difficulties, that is, I have no prejudices about Chinese and not Chinese. I myself love Japanese equipment for its honesty and repairability, I am friendly with hands, I usually service all my equipment myself, with rare exceptions. While the moped was overwintering, I read a lot on the Internet, what and how... Everything is as usual here, whoever writes what, one lasted for five years, the other immediately fell apart. OK let's see. So: Stels Tactic 150. Appearance has never been the main criterion for me, it’s not for everybody. So everything is ok, the only thing I could change is the headlights, which look like the surprised eyes of a Mikimouse, but oh well. The brother of this Tactic called Stels Vortex 150 or other design options from their Benelli is more to my liking. In general, it does not cause rejection, everything is in its place, and the remote controls are normal, the tidy, handles, seat and everything else. The instrument panel is digital, it has everything you need, speedometer, tachometer, voltmeter, fuel level, clock. It has a blue backlight (in the photo that I posted it looks bright, it’s better in real life), which for me would be better if it were green, but it doesn’t irritate the eye, and it’s easy to read, everything is visible, I looked at it and everything is clear. It's obvious that the guys who designed it or copied it worked on it. I was shocked at the resourcefulness of the Chinese (or ours) that on the side stickers where 150 is written, a unit is carefully cut out, which is peeled off so that people think that it is not 150, but 50. They probably think that the Motobatovites are stupid and do not see the size of the variator and engine, oh well, it’s not relevant to me, and in principle it doesn’t matter what’s written there. I was pleased with the mirrors in which I see what I should see, and not myself, I was also pleased with the “toilet”, into which I could fit a first aid kit, a raincoat, a locking cable, a bottle of water and my bundled set of tools (not the factory one). I also liked the high ground clearance, this is important for me. The kit comes with a cover, which is also useful, and a trunk case, I removed it, I don’t need it yet, there is enough space under the seat, maybe it will come in handy later when going to the dacha. Externally, the moped is much larger than our former DIO, probably one and a half times larger, both the wheels and itself. I liked that it had two footrests, a side one and a central one; on the ruff I suffered from the fact that there was only a side one. There is some kind of alarm system with a siren, but we haven’t gotten around to it yet, but it works. The moped was kept in a heated box all the time. Before the season, he changed his oil, as the book says for semi-synthetic 10-40, filled it with Motul. The manual says to replace it in the first 300 km, but since it had been standing for three years, I thought it wouldn’t hurt. A little less than a liter fit. It changes simply. Down in the traffic jam, of course, I found some metal particles, let’s chalk it up to the fact that it’s “new.” I haven't touched the CVT yet. I tried the bolts and nuts, everything seemed to be tightened. (As it turned out later, not all of them) The bolt that holds the front load hook to the frame was loosened and pressed the front plastic, tightened. In general, the inspection did not reveal any special jambs, except that it was poorly assembled, at the bottom left, where the plastic legs were placed at the junction. I was surprised that after so much storage time, more than one tire did not go flat. The kit includes two ignition keys (clamshells), both of them have bolts that hold the key blades, which are barely screwed in and can be unscrewed. I glued the whole mess with Poxypol, traditionally I put on my own long rope, which I used on all my motorcycles. According to tradition, he gave him a name...... at first he wanted to call him Chakhlik, but then he changed his mind and renamed him Styopa or Styopka, after all, he is not Chakhlik. In general, in the process of communicating with this product, I came to the conclusion that everything that was assembled in China itself is good, but what was done here is completely different. After charging the battery, it started from the starter with half a turn. When I sat on it after Ruff I thought I was going to be sick, I was unaccustomed to the stool and I don’t like sitting like that. The gas handle is not adjusted at all, the free movement is half an arm's length. The bolt at the bottom of the remote control, which the cable secures, is not screwed in there according to the thread, okay, I cut a new one. I adjusted it and it got better. The scooter has a good suspension, energy-intensive, even with my 90 kg, it doesn’t break through, it’s dense. With it and the wheels, DIO is no longer afraid to drive along the side of the road, it doesn’t break through, it doesn’t touch the belly. Also, the brakes are not bad, I even liked them, they were clear and understandable. I’ll make a reservation right away, I understand that there is better technology, and brakes from R1 and Yamaha T-Max, etc. but there is a question of price and expectation, when you get on such a Chinese device after Japanese technology, you constantly expect problems, not only in breakdowns and failures, but in everything, like there are no brakes, no suspension, the seat is squashed, but it’s like you wanted it China for three kopecks, but here they managed to surprise me, I hope that the number of good surprises will exceed the number of bad ones. Japanese technology has taught us not to break down, we will have to get used to it. It turned out that the front brake hose does not hold in the fastenings where the fork leg is and a little higher, I tightened the fastenings, everything is ok. I disassembled the plastic from the front and assembled it as it should, but at the bottom left it still doesn’t sit straight. Then it will be necessary to remove it all and hang it again. The plastic itself is normal, molded not badly, fastening into the mount, everything is fine, but the screws... are different, it’s clear that they came to hand, so they tightened it. The same problem with fastening the plastic toilet bowl, four bolts, the ones on top where the seat lock is, are the same, and the lower ones are one short, the other long, one of the upper ones has a bad thread, I re-threaded it, everything was screwed in. A few words about the bolts, I’m used to Japanese ones, here they are different, most of them seem to be entirely covered with chrome, all are soft, you’ll tear them off at any moment, you have to twist them very carefully. So, I started to slowly break it in. This is masochism, the book says that up to 300 km you need no more than 25-30 km per hour, then increase it a little and so on up to a thousand km. This is a nightmare, but I’m trying to keep it safe, there won’t be another one for now. I pour gasoline 92. Speed Maximum 30 km/h...hard, increases self-discipline by the way))). I just violated the regulations once, bgg, I accidentally pressed the button on the dashboard that switches from km/h to miles, I’m driving, and I think it doesn’t show much, but I feel like I’m not going slowly. I don't know when this will all end, since I've driven 130 km in total and through these runs I now know all the minor roads. I tried not to drive on big roads; with a threshold of 30 km/h it’s dangerous. It feels like from a standstill DIO fired like a rocket for its 50cc, but this one rides differently, while it seems to me either the same as it or slower, it’s still a four-stroke. But then it goes easier, the cubic capacity still makes itself felt, the sound is better, it doesn’t crackle like a fifty-kopeck piece. The variator is not poorly tuned. I am already beginning to understand many of my friends who have switched to maxi-scooters, conveniently. Last time, after driving it for 20 km, the weather was great, I returned to the garage, turned it off and decided to drive again, started it up... and it started stalling, stopped idling, started up with dips... Actually, even since my first VAZ 2108. I didn’t like this word Carburetor, only Honda in the person of DIO and my CB400 made me understand that this unit can also work well and flawlessly, especially DIO, I didn’t even know that it existed there, but the leaders in the hemorrhoids of this component were 2108 , my IZH Planet 5, and the first place is URAL SOLO, I don’t even want to remember it. Now there’s a moped, I hope that my former Ural will remain in the lead. I must say that here the carburetor lives its own life, works without failures, holds the speed, but they float, from 1400 to 2400, on their own, I don’t know the reason for this yet, we need to figure it out. I disassembled it, pulled out the carburetor, took off the covers, washed it with carb cleaner, assembled it, and put it in place. I downloaded the manual from the Internet and read how to adjust the carb. In mine, for some reason, the mixture quality bolt was turned out almost all the way. I adjusted it according to the book, it seems to be normal. I unscrewed the spark plug, it was normal. We need to buy a spare one, so be it. I noticed that the cap was not completely put on and latched. At the same time, I adjusted the throttle cable on the carb again, now almost like on a ruff. I adjusted the clamping clamps on the tubes; one of them was not on, hanging in vain; at the same time, I routed them with the throttle cable as required. It works, but the speed is still floating. I repeat that it seems that the units themselves, which come assembled, are quite normal, but everything connected with further assembly here has a number of difficulties, which is a problem, screwdriver assembly, low salaries, disinterest of the staff, it’s difficult to judge. So, every trip ended with a loss of speed and the scooter stalled, and it did it strangely, then it worked normally, then convulsions began for no reason, among other things, these convulsions had an apotheosis finale, when leaving the garage it simply stalled and flatly refused start up. It’s good that it didn’t happen somewhere out there, but nearby. I pushed him back, I was pretty tired of this topic (I’m politely trying to choose words, the expression should be different). I started looking for the problem and dismantled the floor of the scooter. The wire going to the ignition coil has fallen off, the connector is simply put on and removed, jumping off freely, it’s tin. My coil is mounted below the floor, not as written in the manual. I tightened the connector, now it’s holding... Then I began to feel everything there that I could. The vacuum tubes that go to the gas tank valve came off freely from the tee, even despite the clamps, and dangled; naturally, no vacuum was created there, the valve did not open the fuel supply. I tightened everything up, put it on properly, everything seemed to work ok, I tested it, it rides, I hope there are no surprises in the future. But apparently this was only the beginning of surprises. Then things got more fun, something strange started happening with the fork, maybe I got used to it and began to pay more attention. I took it apart, the left pen is completely empty, the right one has two drops of something gray. Just in case, I added a little fork oil there, which I had left over from my previous equipment, I don’t know if it’s correct or not, maybe it’s not needed there. Then a terrible squeak appeared, it’s the central stand that creaks on bumps, whatever I did to it, I removed and lubricated it and swapped the bushings and sharpened the burrs on a knife, it still creaks, not much, but still. It’s not the season yet. , I’ll take it off and try again to figure out what she needs. Outsiders were also extremely surprised by the sounds from behind. When I went to look, I was shocked to see that in the upper shock absorber mount there was no thread in the nut and the bolt was held on by one cotter pin... I cut off the nut and tightened it with a regular one. At the same time, I covered it with a film of diamond chips (it was inexpensive in our store on sale, it came in handy), exactly in the color of the scooter itself, so as not to be scratched, and if you remove it, it will be like new later, but that’s how it is, digression. I patiently carried out the entire run-in as it was written in the book. I put oil in the engine, in the variator, kept the speed everything as it should be. I adjusted the valves, the exhaust was clamped. The carburetor caused the most trouble. I didn’t do anything to it, and tested the solenoid valve, everything was ok , but I still bought a new one, it didn’t help, I washed, cleaned, adjusted, it didn’t help, I checked everything possible right down to the inlet pipe and pipes. It doesn’t reflect on the spark plugs, it’s poor, maybe it’s sucking air somewhere and I can’t find where . Sometimes it drives normally, sometimes it just stalls, sometimes it picks up the revs almost up to 4000 for no reason, it lives its own life, at the end of the season it ended up driving very poorly, gaining momentum with dips, possibly due to the cool weather. This is where the season ended. Having run it in, I allowed myself to spin it a little, once or twice I even reached 80 km/h, but decided not to drive it like that, only in extreme cases. As I wrote above, the scooter is a forced topic for me, and its seating position + wheel size + chassis do not give me any confidence at speed, so I’ll make do with average city speeds. In terms of dynamics, after running-in it doesn’t go badly, it allows you to start briskly from a traffic light, overtaking many cars, it’s also pleasant to drive through traffic jams, the variator + not a lot of weight, and yet 150 and not 50 cubic meters are driven quite cheerfully. I only drove 1680 km. Taking into account the running-in, these 1680 km seemed to me like I had driven 10 thousand) After the season. The garages are warm and there is room for repairs. As a result, I first ordered a carb repair kit there (it already comes with a metal piston inside with a needle that is adjustable, unlike the standard one), replaced it, it didn’t seem bad, there were no more failures, but it’s still difficult to adjust the quality of the mixture, or rather not gives in. After reading some guys on the Internet, I decided to order another carb there. As it is written on the website, my Corundum PD24J carburetor is a copy of the outdated Keihin VE, and it can easily be replaced with a more modern version CVK 24/26 with an accelerator pump, etc., supposedly the Japanese themselves install them on 150 cc, and the Chinese For some bureaucratic reasons they don’t do this, perhaps this is so, I won’t argue. I ordered the Chinese CVK26, it arrived, but what is called the bolt-on did not fit, it has a larger lower part and where the accelerator pump is, and on the other hand, with all this equipment it rests at the bottom and does not fit. In order for it to fit, as I understand it, you need to replace the inlet pipe with one for the 26 inlet and a size larger so that it does not rest against the bottom, also change the studs to long ones, the standard ones are not enough for such an inlet. At first I decided to put it off to “think about it”, then I finally decided to buy a new regular carb, the same one I have now, the price is 1700 rubles. It won’t fit my pocket, but I’ll still think about that CVK26, against the background of what was there, maybe it won’t be superfluous, maybe I’ll install it. The one I bought now, supposedly from Motoland, comes in a box. It’s assembled better than my original one, it already has a standard metal piston, different hoses, not like mine, which don’t hold on at all, bolts, etc. But I’m still I also understand that this is, of course, roulette. It also turned out that my Stels Tactic 150 is equipped with a 158QMJ motor, as they say, it is similar to the 157QMJ motor, but at the same time it differs in many ways, and the most common one is 157, perhaps if someone decides to buy such equipment, it is better to choose something something with a 157 engine, you can find much more for it, but for 158 it’s rare and mostly at dealers. I, as a normal person, in my heart hope for the best, and sincerely wish that this product, having overcome all these jambs and shortcomings, will become my faithful, reliable friend, like my Japanese cars and former motorcycles. What surprises me most about this whole topic is that these things are sold to everyone as a finished product. People with hands and capabilities are one thing, the average person in the street is another thing, I don’t understand what to do in this case. The best option for those who are not good with their hands is not to hope for the best, but simply refuse to buy, and for those who are good with their hands, but still decided to opt for such things, then buy it disassembled in a box, and take your time to assemble it clearly and efficiently. I would not like to see in the comments what someone would take and what is better, this is everyone’s independent choice, everything has its own nuances, but of course you need to be aware and keep in mind information about what to expect, clearly understanding what you are getting into. Let's see what happens next, there is not much optimism anymore.
Photo gallery (little things in detail)
Back view.
Close-up of the chain tightening mechanism. Not very good, since often the iron at the place where the bolt is attached begins to bend.
Front brake disc.
Compared to a moped.
Rear brake disc and brake caliper.
All photographs are editorial (author's).
