Subtleties of oil change
As you can see, there is no oil filter here. This will negatively affect the life of this engine.
Basically, all economy class pit bikes come without an oil filter. This means that the replacement process boils down to unscrewing the drain plug, jumping on a pit bike, waiting for the oil to drain, and filling in new oil. That's the whole point of this article in one sentence. But there are subtleties.
Irbis TTR 125, RegulMOTO 125, MotorLand 125 and other analogs that are created in this likeness - there is no oil filter.
Choosing engine oil
Specification in the instructions for the RegulMOTO pit bike.
You have to be careful here, most pit bikes come with 4-stroke engines, the instructions for pit bikes say that the oil should have a viscosity of 10W/40 . There are no exact recommendations regarding the type of oil. I use semi-synthetic oil , but you can use fully synthetic oil.
Replacement timing
If you look at the photo above, the manufacturer recommends making the first replacement after 10 engine hours , all subsequent ones every 30 engine hours - regardless of the presence of an oil filter.
Manufacturers
The pouring of Mobil 1 and Motul products is considered a special hype. It may make sense, but such oil costs 800 rubles per liter. I uploaded KIXX - it cost 310 rubles. I didn't feel much difference. Plus - Made in KOREA !
Front side.
Backside.
Manufacturer - KOREA!
Oil specification.
Petrol
It is always best to look at what brand the manufacturer recommends using and fill it with that brand. But most likely, if you do not operate the bike under extreme loads and do not participate in races, you should not bother with the choice: both brands are suitable for most models (both 92 and 95), and you can fill the tank with AI-92.
But there are other tips on the forums. The first, common one is that pit bikes are filled with 92nd gasoline if the engine capacity is less than 140 cubic meters, and 95th if the engine capacity is larger. And the second one concerns compression in the engine. You can find it out either from the technical documentation for your model, or measure it with a compression meter. If the indicator is above 10, then you should refuel with AI-95, if less, then 92 will do.
Pit bikes with oil filter
The seat and the oil filter itself are in the photo.
The steps for changing the oil are similar, only a couple of points are added.
- Before unscrewing the drain plug, remove the oil filter.
- After draining the oil, insert a new oil filter. Follow the sequence, different models can be arranged with a spring. We recommend that you treat the oil filter cover mounting bolts with a special liquid that will prevent them from being unscrewed.
What oil is best to put in a pit bike?
Today, the pit bike has become almost the most popular vehicle among motorcycle equipment. They sell like hot cakes on the market. But there is no such equipment that you can just buy and ride all your life.
Pit bikes need timely maintenance, such as changing the engine oil. This procedure is very important, since the four-stroke engines produced today are more advanced and powerful than earlier models. Excess or lack of oil negatively affects the operation of the pit bike, so you must know the exact volume for the engine of a particular model. As a rule, this is 800-900 ml.
In order to change the engine oil, the first step is to unscrew and remove the dipstick, which also acts as a filler plug. This is necessary so that some air gets inside, which will make it easier for the oil to exit through the drain hole.
After this, you need to slightly unscrew the drain bolt, which is located at the bottom of the crankcase. This can be done with an open-end wrench size 17. The drain bolt is visible through the hole in the crankcase protection.
Before completely removing the drain plug, it is better to place a 1-liter container under the engine. You can take a 5-liter water bottle with the neck cut off or a canister. The main thing is capacity.
Only after this can you unscrew the plug completely. During this time, try not to splash yourself with oil or drop any part such as a nut or bolt into it.
In this position, the pit bike should be left for half an hour so that all the used oil flows into the container without any residue. You can slightly rock the pit bike in different directions so that there is no oil left anywhere. By tilting the motorcycle to the sides several times, you can make sure that a lot of old oil remains on the walls. When the oil has been completely drained, the drain bolt can be replaced and tightened.
Which oil to choose is up to everyone to decide for themselves. For example, for highly accelerated engines it is best to use synthetic oil; for engines with high mileage, mineral oil is excellent because it provides a thick film layer and restores compression.
In general, the best option for pit bikes is semi-synthetic oil with a viscosity of 10W40. You should ask the manufacturer exactly how much to pour so as not to disrupt the operation of the engine. After the required amount of oil has been poured in, you need to insert the dipstick and plug into place without tightening it yet. You need to make sure that the motorcycle is level, without distortions, then remove the plug and dipstick. The correct oil level is in the middle of the ribbed surface. After this, you can tighten the plug with the dipstick completely and go for a ride. It must be said that after turning on the pit bike, the oil level will drop slightly, but this is normal, since it is evenly distributed throughout the crankcase.
And you definitely need to change the oil in a timely manner, forgetting that how long your pit bike will serve you largely depends on it.
Single-barreled gun requires good oil
Single-cylinder engines of enduro and even more so cross-country motorcycles are demanding on the quality of oils. One of the most important parameters that should be monitored when operating a motorcycle is the oil temperature, but alas, as a rule, there are no oil temperature sensors on motorcycles.
Air-cooled engines are more susceptible to oil overheating, which is why Honda XR engines begin to smoke. Overheated oil loses its properties, cokes the oil scraper rings and oil waste appears, and the lack of proper lubrication finally kills the engine, the owner ends up with major repairs and a lot of money. Off-road driving also has a negative impact when speeds are low and dirt covers the engine and it stops cooling properly.
Water-cooled engines handle oil temperature much better, but be careful because coolant temperature is not the same as oil temperature! The difference can reach several degrees, which can be critical for lubricating properties.
Car oil for motorcycle
We hear the question: “Is it possible to put car oil into a motorcycle?” It is difficult to answer this question unambiguously. On the one hand, car oil lacks the necessary additives necessary for the operation of a motorcycle clutch. On the other hand, the composition of automobile oil is hardly different in other respects, and if the clutch does not slip, then it turns out that it can?
A rider from our team decided to help us answer this question and conducted an experiment on his Yamaha YZ250F. Now, instead of the recommended one, he fills with automotive Lukoil, which costs 2 times less. We will report additionally on the results of the experiment and the condition of his Yamaha engine.
Hi all.
In this post I’ll tell you about my first impressions of riding through the forest on my bike, the first oil change and observations on the operation of a Chinese motorbike. There will be some photos. So, I’ve already ridden for more than 10 minutes or about 150 km on the Kayo 125 motorbike. Why about more than 10 hours? Yes, because the Chinese motor-computer works strangely. In tachometer mode it regularly and stably shows the revolutions, but in the hour-meter mode it periodically forgets to count them. For a 2.5 hour trip I only clocked about 1 hour. During the last ride at 1h 42m I clocked 0.9 hours. Why - who knows, the speed is constantly shown, there is no loss of signal. Therefore, I’m ready to hear options for a budget-class motorcycle computer that is inexpensive (up to 1000 rubles), works stably and has a little more functions than an hour counter + engine speed. I buy from Ali quite often. Average runs/rides take from 20 to 50 km and take from 1.5 to 3 hours. The average speed in motion is about 20 km/h. Not far from the garage there is a forest with a large number of paths, dirt roads/ruts of varying degrees of passability (from “I drive with the wind in 3-4 gear”, to “I drive along on foot in 1st gear.” The engine has enough power. It jumps into most hills in second at medium speeds. I like the torque of this engine: it pulls almost at idle without being out of breath, like a tractor. I really enjoy the rides. Maybe over time the euphoria will pass. I visited different places within a radius of 20 km, which I would hardly have seen without a moped. The driveability of the pit may be worse than that of a full-size cross, but it is clearly higher than almost any ass, and even with a cross, the issue is debatable. If you can’t drive straight (deep, chacha, I don’t want to be up to my ears in mud), then you either go around next to him or carry him in your arms. Many times I used the latter method when I reached a dead end and there was no room for a normal turn. You take the bike by the tail and turn it around on the spot. From the maintenance since ownership: 1. I changed the oil at about 5.3 m/h (at the beginning the m/h meter worked more adequately). I drained the old oil (it was not very dark, but a slight metallic sheen was visible in the light/bright light, like a small pearl), and filled in new Lmolli 10-40. 2. Tightened the chain a little after 10 m/h. At first, the buzzing of the chain on the roller/slider was a little annoying, but apparently the chain was a little overtightened. After a couple of rides, I decided to set the tension according to the manual - it turned out that it had increased exactly according to the manual: 22 mm from the mark on the pendulum. The chain makes less noise/buzz and only when “rolling up”. A “path” of output from the chain appeared on the slider. I also noticed that the chain “ate” the paint a little just below the slider of the pendulum itself. I haven’t noticed any progression yet, I tightened the chain and will continue to monitor it. 3. The yoke nut was not tightened from the very beginning. It also attracts the motorcycle computer bracket. I couldn’t pull it up myself, since the location is such that not a single key can fit in there. I twist it periodically by hand, as it will unwind no more than a quarter of a turn. This is how I live for now. 4. There is no running water in the garage and there are no car washes nearby. But not all rides, even taking into account the desire to return clean, end perfectly. The problem is solved with a screwdriver (for cleaning the ribs of the head and cylinder) + a brush with plastic bristles. Since the mud usually dries out well by the end of the trip, it falls off quite well. Therefore, 10-15 minutes after a ride (if everything is dry), or before the next ride, brings the moped to a relatively clean appearance. There is one tendency. After buying this bike, I spend nice fine days in the forests, and not on the asphalt. I think that this is temporary and a balance will be found. Even and not very dear to everyone!
Where did Motul come from?
So why are Motul oils so popular? Perhaps because of high consumer qualities, or is it just well-promoted marketing stuck in the minds of ordinary people? To answer this question, let’s go back a few years and remember the history of Motul’s formation in the Russian market.
Those who are older should remember that Motul appeared suddenly, boldly and very aggressively, advertising flashed at all auto and motorcycle competitions. This memorable bright red sticker with white lettering was everywhere, on the banners of racing events, on every racing car or motorcycle. Gradually, an opinion began to form that there was simply no alternative to oil for sports. And as you know, what is used in sports sooner or later flows to ordinary consumers. Everyone wants to use the best, what the champions use will definitely not let you down. But no one tells consumers how often athletes change their oil, and red stickers do not mean that this is the oil in the engine, sponsorship, a slippery business.
Thus, year after year, Motul conquered the Russian market and now every schoolchild knows that motor oil 5100 has a regular golden color, 7100 is red, and 300v is poisonous yellow-green. And if previously the price of Motul was quite affordable, now, thanks to the fact that they buy well, prices are kept at such a level that you can buy any other oil much cheaper.
