You asked: What kind of oil should be poured into a delta moped?

Operating manual for Delta moped

Technical characteristics of the Delta moped

Moped device

The location of the moped elements and control handles is shown in Fig. 1-3

Fig 1.

1-Passenger footrest, 2-Electric starter, 3-Running footrest, 4-Rear brake pedal, 5-Frame number, 6-Trunk

Fig 2.

1-Seat, 2-Fuel valve, 3-Gear shift pedal, 4-Footrest, 5-Central step, 6-Side step, 7-Passenger step.

Fig 3

1-Headlight switch, 2-Instrument panel, 3-Light switch, 4-Front brake handle, 5-Throttle handle, 6-Ignition switch, 7-Horn button, 8-Turn signal switch, 9-Clutch handle, 10-Fuel tank cap.

Moped operating instructions

Engine starting

To start the engine when cold, turn the fuel valve to the “ON” position. Then insert the key into the ignition and turn to the “ON” position. Set the gear shift pedal to the neutral position. Close the choke on the carburetor and gently press the kick starter lever several times, and then start the engine with a sharp press.

Allow the engine to run for approximately 1-2 minutes and then return the choke to the open position. You cannot start driving with a not warmed up engine.

Starting a warm engine

Performed in the same sequence as when cold, but without closing the air damper. It is recommended to start a warm engine using an electric starter.

Start of movement

Depress the clutch lever and set the gear shift pedal to 1st speed. Slowly increase the engine speed, and at the same time smoothly release the clutch lever. The moped will start moving slowly. Increasing the engine speed, accelerate the moped, then, reducing the engine speed and squeezing the clutch lever, engage 2nd speed by pressing the front gear lever down. By repeating the procedure described above, you can switch to 3rd and then 4th gear. Choose the optimal speed depending on the situation on the road.

Braking

By turning the throttle control away from you, reduce the engine speed. Squeeze the clutch lever and simultaneously depress the front wheel brake lever and the rear wheel foot brake pedal with equal force. After stopping the moped, shift the gearbox to neutral, then release the clutch lever.

When braking a moped, use both brakes at the same time. By gradually increasing the force on the lever and brake pedal, you can ensure the most effective braking. Braking with only the front or rear wheel may cause the moped to skid or fall, so be extremely careful. When driving on wet or slippery asphalt, operate the braking system carefully and gently to prevent falling.

Stop

To stop the moped, turn the throttle control handle away from you to reduce the engine speed. Squeeze the clutch lever and simultaneously depress the front wheel brake lever and the rear wheel foot brake pedal with equal force. Shift the gearbox to neutral, then release the clutch lever. Turn off the engine. Place the moped on the kickstand.

Do not park the moped on a slope or soft ground to avoid it falling. To avoid burns, do not touch the hot exhaust pipe.

What kind of oil to pour into a delta moped. What kind of oil can be poured into an alpha moped?

To choose the right oil for a moped, consulting a salesperson in a store is not enough.
Moreover, many of them have only superficial knowledge of the characteristics and properties of motor oils. Motor oils should be selected depending on the engine installed on the motorcycle.

It should be remembered that in the regulatory and technical literature there is no special term “scooter oil”. However, in the store you often find oils specifically designed for motorcycle and moped engines. You can purchase them with confidence, paying attention only to what type of engine they are suitable for: two-stroke or four-stroke.

How much oil is in the delta shock absorber?

122) TIPS FOR CHECKING THE MOPEDA CHASSIS __________________________________________

123) INTERCHANGEABILITY OF GENERATORS __________________________________

124) THE CHAIN ​​FALLS ON DELTA (ALPHA). WHAT TO DO?? _____________________________________________________

ATTENTION! First of all, you need to change bearing 6203, which no one pays attention to.

125) CATALOGS OF ENGINE PARTS WITH THEIR NUMBERS AND CORRECT NAMES OF PARTS ________________________________________________________________________________

126) MAIN TYPES OF BATTERIES ____________________________

Motorcycle batteries are mainly divided into three types:

*sealed (MF) motorcycle batteries (gel) *instant use motorcycle batteries *flooded batteries (general batteries). New sealed batteries do not have an acid bottle and have a strip of red aluminum foil on the surface of the battery.

New flooded (common) batteries usually have a bottle of acid and a series of plastic sealing plugs on the surface of the battery.

2. How are different types of motorcycle batteries suitable for different types of motorcycles?

*Motorcycle batteries with a capacity of less than 6V12Ah are suitable for lighting, ignition, speakers of lightweight motorcycles, but not for starting; *Motorcycle batteries with a capacity of 6V12Ah or 12V12Ah are suitable for starting, lighting, ignition, speakers of mid-size motorcycles; *Motorcycle batteries with a capacity greater than 12V12A are suitable for starting, lighting, ignition, heavy duty motorcycle speakers; *Reference formula for choosing starter batteries: Capacity (Ah) x 8 x 8 ≥ motorcycle starting power (W)

3. Can motorcycle batteries be used on electric bikes?

No, motorcycle batteries can only be used on motorcycles and not on electric bikes or other vehicles.

4. How to add acid and activate flooded batteries (general batteries) before use?

engine's type

When buying oil for a motorcycle, you need to pay attention to its classification, as well as the content of special additives.

To choose which oil to put into your scooter, first consider the engine type: products for two-stroke engines are not suitable for four-stroke engines, and vice versa. The fundamental difference in operation: oil for two-stroke engines is mixed with gasoline in a ratio of 1:25 or 1:50, depending on the manufacturer’s recommendation. Lubricant replacement in four-stroke engines occurs by draining the old product from the oil tank, washing and filling with a new one.

The choice between mineral, semi-synthetic or synthetic oil for mopeds and scooters is not difficult. For economy class mopeds and scooters, mineral or semi-synthetic is perfect. Mineral varieties are the cheapest, so they are more often purchased by poor scooter owners. But when using them, you should remember that they are chemically unstable, so the timing of their replacement must be strictly observed. Semi-synthetics are preferable to mineral ones, but are noticeably more expensive. Synthetic oil is intended for high-speed boosted scooters, whose engines place increased demands on oil quality. It preserves engine life better, has better viscosity, lower volatility, and a wider range of operating temperatures. For inexpensive mopeds, synthetics are just an unnecessary luxury.

Special attention should be paid: mixing mineral, semi-synthetic and synthetic oils is strictly prohibited!

Return to contents

So, we continue the series of articles. Here is a description of 2009-20013 and 50cc, move on to 120cc

I received my license back in 2004, and from the age of 14 I rode a Karpaty-2 Sport moped (I’ll write more later). But until 2013 there was nothing over 50cc. And so in 2012 I began to look for something cooler than 50cc.

Among the contenders were the Chinese. I had experience in operating them with Chinese motorcycles, it’s okay, all I had to do was choose one to my liking and according to the money. To avoid holivar: Japanese technology is nicer, better quality, but more expensive. I’ll survive with my runs.

All winter I watched videos, went to salons to sit. Of the contenders, I liked the Stealth Delta 200 for its comfortable fit, but in the spring everything went up in price. In terms of traction characteristics, I liked the Orion 125, which was cheaper. I didn’t like the Stealth Flaim 200 for the fit and the abundance of plastic (but you can install roll bars and a trunk), Yobrik is more expensive. And on May 1st I took Orion. And a year later - Stealth Delta 200, which I drove to Crimea. But more on that another time.

They collected it at the salon, handed it out and off they went. Refueled. While running in, there was no traction, I could barely drive. But I always try to roll it in gently, so I endured it, for which I later received a good pull. And it's nice to drive. It drives at low speed (4th speed at 30 km/h) and gives incredible pleasure.

There were problems with registration (I need travel legality to travel). The moped is assembled in the Bryansk region and Krasnodar region. If the motor is assembled in the Krasnodar region (like mine), then the manufacturer provides the title on behalf of the Bryansk region. The traffic police found fault with this. I had to go to the dealer, who gave me a certified document that the Krasnodar division has the right to issue PTS for the Bryansk region. After which I registered the motel. The traffic police looked at how much he eats, how much he rushes, “well, he’s normal for a dacha,” and issued a license plate.

I drove it on the Moscow-Dacha road. I did a 300 km maintenance (at the dealer for a guarantee) and a 1000 km maintenance (by myself, the problems would have come out at the 300 km maintenance, but there is no point in paying further). On the TO-1000, I stretched everything again, adjusted the valves, the chain, replaced the oil with car oil (holivar-holivar, is it possible to pour car oil? It’s possible! If you do it wisely). And I use the bike with a complete sense of satisfaction. A little later I bought a case. Although the first 1000 km are considered a break-in period, the bike rides better with each km and I think it’s realistic to break in up to three thousand. It was like this on the Stealth Delta, but on the Orion the mileage is still 2800.

During operation, I went to Kolomna, rode around the dacha and around Moscow. You can already drive around Moscow (50cc in Moscow traffic is terrible). Moreover, driving through Moscow traffic jams on the Orion turned out to be more convenient than on the Stealth Delta 200 (but on the Moscow Ring Road it is very difficult and here the Delta is better; on highways outside the city it doesn’t matter). As a result, by the middle of 2015, I had driven 2800 km (no, there were no breakdowns, that’s 2800 km in total; on such runs, equipment breaks down only for those who don’t take care of it and drive it in the tail and mane).

Among the clearly expressed features: traction and suspension are optimal for primer, the tank is only 8 liters, it blows away on the highway at 80 km/h. There are no brakes . Drum brakes. The bike is very light, which is a huge advantage for leisurely driving on unfamiliar roads.

Although the motor is called Orion 125, it actually has 120cc and 6.9 hp. Oh, I also received tax for 2014: 47 rubles

So, I’ll summarize for you the moped motorcycle moped version “PRO” Orion 125 City. What can you say about it, if you don’t stupidly retype the performance characteristics from the instructions with a mileage of 2800 km? That's what:

1. PTS. It is legal to travel to the Moscow Ring Road and the Highway.
2. The traffic police of Moscow and the Moscow Region turn away when they see him (from afar you can see him as a moped). But in some regions it is better to have a number and insurance; traffic cops specifically catch them, because it is a reason for a fine.
3. 80 goes, even 90. Some school-age kids go 120 in the Abibas and make a 10-horsepower Yobra (Anton-Arkady Nedobaykerov confirms ). But in general the comfort speed is up to 70. And up to 50 in the fields is his element.
4. The engine characteristics, chainrings and suspension are ideal for the village. But you shouldn’t be under any illusions, although the frame there is better than the usual Alfa one, it’s still a moped. Well, the bike is lightweight, which is a minus on the highway, but a plus in the fields.
5. It uses little gasoline, and maintenance costs are minimal.
6. You can drive 70 along the highway while keeping them on the speedometer. I drove 350 km in a day - everything was fine. But 500 km per day, I think this is the limit (like 780 on Delta 200, but this is all a risk). In short, for travel, count on 400 km per day.
7. The seating position is quite comfortable, but sometimes I want the steering wheel to be higher and closer.
8. Drum brakes, Chinese tires. So don’t forget to think with your head, brake with your engine, and use your equipment. 80 km/h is no joke, no matter what those same school-aged boys say.
9. Spare parts are cheap, and there’s nothing special to break. Everything is done in the field.
10. Inconvenient: there are no chain adjustment marks and the intake valve has a gap of 0.03 mm - you will have to look for such a feeler gauge.
11. The motorcycle has a trunk and a place for attaching side bags. This is good.

Here's a moped that looks like a moped, but rides better. This is not a motorcycle, this is a PRO moped. I recommend it for the country house or as an inexpensive motorcycle. But in 2014 I went to Crimea on the Delta. Although Orion would have gotten there too. What to go to the south in 2015: Orion or Delta - I haven’t decided yet. Orion is light, which is sometimes a big plus - you can go somewhere. Well, there is already a trunk and side fastening for bags

Quality Standards

Motor oils have various specifications indicating their quality: API, JACO and others.

The oil standard is indicated on the canister. After the letters API there is a letter designation of oil quality: from SA to SM. The S scale indicates that the oil belongs to gasoline engines; the quality scale is indicated by letters from A (low quality) to M (high quality). A total of 11 quality classes are provided: A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H, J, L and M. Products with specifications from SA to SE are currently almost never produced and are only suitable for older equipment manufactured in 80s or 90s. Modern mopeds and scooters consume oil of at least SF quality, but it is better if it is SH, SJ or SL.

Marking and viscosity

SAE recommended viscosity table.

Engine wear is affected by the oil viscosity parameter . The required viscosity depends on the operating temperature of the engine and is usually specified in the operating instructions. The generally accepted standard for designating viscosity according to the American SAE method: 5W40, 5W30, 10W40, 10W50 or simply SAE 40, SAE 50. Moreover, the first number indicates the viscosity of the oil in a cold engine, the second - in one warmed up to operating temperature. The letter W indicates that the oil belongs to winter or all-season varieties. Summer varieties do not have this letter and the first number (SAE 30, SAE 40). The lower the first number, the better the engine starts in cold weather. But if there is no need to ride a moped in winter, there is no point in using liquid oil. In warm weather, high viscosity provides better lubrication of power unit parts, the oil film on rubbing surfaces is not destroyed, and dry friction, overheating and destruction of parts are prevented.

For summer, viscosity 10W40, 10W50, SAE 30, SAE 40, etc. is more suitable. The higher the viscosity of the oil when hot (second number), the better suited the oil is for hot operating conditions. In mid-latitudes, SAE 30 or SAE 40 is quite suitable. In hot countries, SAE 50 and even SAE 60 are used.

Oil for four-stroke engines

In the main part of four-stroke engines (and the Alpha’s engine is four-stroke), oil is poured into the engine crankcase and does not lubricate the rubbing parts either by splashing (due to the introduction of rotating engine parts) or under pressure (which is done by the oil pump). Oil also helps cool the engine. What oil to fill in VAZ-2114 8 valves: choice. Therefore, the oil in a four-stroke engine must withstand a couple of years of operation at high temperatures.

Some owners ask: “Do I need to add oil to gasoline?” Alfa moped, replacing the air filter "Car" oil in a motorcycle. Remember: for Alpha mopeds (Delta, Sabur, Vento, etc.) there is no need to add oil to gasoline!

Front fork

I was thinking about changing the oil in the front fork on an Alfa, I looked on the Internet and found how much to pour (in the Alfa 120 ml, in the Delta 160 ml (in each leg)), but I couldn’t find any exact criteria about what kind of oil to pour there.
Questions: Have you changed the oil in the fork? Which one did you fill and how many ml? At what mileage did you decide to change the oil?

Added after 5 minutes

I’m also thinking about replacing the front drum brake with a disc brake, but since there is no mount for a caliper on the fork legs, I’m thinking of installing a complete fork or just the legs from Parton King 50. But I don’t know the size of the fork from King and whether it will fit into the Alpha yokes

There, as far as I know, the oil is not changed but topped up as needed. They suggested oil to me and 20. spindle in common parlance.

Added after 2 minutes

I’m also thinking about replacing the front drum brake with a disc brake, but since there is no fastening for a caliper on the fork legs, I’m thinking of installing a complete fork or just the legs from Parton King 50. But I don’t know the size of the King fork and whether it will fit into the Alpha crossbars [/ quote]

Take and measure the diameters of the pipes with a rod of both. And compare. But there is no reason to install a disk drive on 50 cubic meters. And then decide for yourself.

I changed it and barely opened the feathers. Clamped in a vice in a barbaric manner, removed the decor on the fork and clamped it in it. So I opened it. I temporarily filled it with 10w40, at least better than the original oil. I poured it to the edge in clamped fork. (This might be correct, but it’s temporary)

They also pour a transmission (a wide variety), there is a special one. oils for this, for example Motul fork oil expert of different hardness 7.5W 10W 15W. (Light, medium, hard)

Hydraulic oil MGP-10 TU U 00152365.111-99

Hydraulic oil MGP-10 is a composition of low-viscosity, low-solidifying petroleum oil, depressant, dispersant, anti-wear, antioxidant and anti-foam additives.

Intended for use as a working fluid in hydraulic shock absorbers of automobiles

Ensures shock absorbers operate over a wide temperature range.

Good anti-wear characteristics. Physico-chemical indicators: No. Name of indicator Indicator value 1. Color, CNT units, no more than 5 2. Kinematic viscosity, mm2/s at minus 20°C, no more than 1000 at plus 20°C, not less than 35, 0 at plus 50°С, not lower than 10 3. Pour point, °С, not higher than minus 40 4. Flash point, determined in an open crucible, °С, not lower than 145 5. Acid number, mg KOH/g oil, not more than 0.15 6. Corrosion effect on metal withstands 7. Mass fraction of water, %, no more than none 8. Mass fraction of mechanical impurities, %, no more than none 9. Change in rubber volume after aging, %, ranging from minus 6 to plus 6 10. Tribological characteristics on a four-wheel drive: welding load (Рз), N, not less than 2820 critical load (Рк), N, not less than 710 scuffing index (Iz), N, not less than 324 Added after 6 minutes

Source

How often should you change the oil in your moped?

Choosing oil for the Hyundai Solaris engine The engine is the part of the car that especially needs lubrication. How to choose the right oil? After all, the assortment is so wide. Store shelves are practically lined with various canisters and not cans. What kind of oil should I put in Hyundai Solaris? There are two ways to answer this question. Option one. Here-.

What kind of oil to pour into the Alpha moped engine.

Many questions arise from people who are servicing a moped themselves for the first time.

The operating instructions require the use of oil for four-stroke engines, API SE, SF, viscosity SAE 15W40.

Let's try to figure out what this means.

Oil for four-stroke engines

This phrase means that you cannot fill the engine with 2-stroke engine. The fact is that two-stroke engines have a completely different principle of engine lubrication: they mix oil with gasoline in certain proportions (either in the gas tank or using a special oil pump), and then, together with gasoline, enter the engine crankcase, lubricating the crankshaft bearings and connecting rod, as well as a cylinder mirror. The mixture then enters the combustion chamber, where the oil burns along with gasoline and is removed from the engine through the exhaust pipe. In this case, two-stroke oil is not intended for long-term use.

, it's "disposable".

In most four-stroke engines (and the Alfa four-stroke engine), oil is poured into the crankcase and lubricates the cloth parts either by spray (due to the rotating parts of the engine) or under pressure (which creates an axial pump). In addition, the oil helps cool the engine. Therefore, the oil in a four-stroke engine must withstand a long service life at high temperatures.

Some owners ask: “Do I need to add oil to gasoline?” Remember: for Alpha mopeds (Delta, Sabur, Vento, etc.) you do not need to add oil to gasoline!

Can I put car oil into an Alpha Delta moped?

If you want to make money on YouTube, then click here Help with the development of mine.

Next letter. oil generation symbol. The designation is in alphabetical order, that is, the further the letter is from the beginning of the Latin alphabet. that oil generation is higher (performance is better).

Currently, API categories API SA, SB, SC, SD, SE, SF, SG are considered invalid, category SH is considered conditionally valid. Therefore it is recommended in the instructions for moped categories SE

also

can’t find SF Then what oil should you buy? The answer is to buy any, following in alphabetical order (SJ, SL, SM, SN), it will in any case be no worse than the recommended one.

Synthetic, semi-synthetic or mineral water?

It is generally accepted that synthetic oils are of the highest quality and almost extend the life of the engine. On the other hand, as I wrote above, now any oil that has been certified in accordance with the API standard is suitable for use in the Alpha moped engine.

I have chosen a golden mean for myself: I introduce semi-synthetic imported manufacturers into the moped; The price of a liter of semi-synthetic oil is not much different from the price of petroleum products.

But only now it is rarely found on the shelves of semi-synthetic 15W-40. Mostly mineral oils are sold under this designation. Therefore, I fill the engine with 10W-40 oil as closest to the manufacturer's recommendations.