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Humor on the topic: If a Russian person decides to do nothing, then he cannot be stopped.
A lot of questions arise from people who are servicing a moped themselves for the first time.
The operating instructions require the use of oil for four-stroke engines, API SE,SF, with a viscosity of SAE 15W40. Let's try to figure out what this means.
Gearbox oil
The instructions say what kind of oil should be poured into the engine, but there is not a word about the gearbox. Although we are all accustomed to the fact that transmission oil is poured into the box, usually thicker than in the engine.
Owners of Alpha mopeds (and the like) need to know that the gearbox, engine and clutch are located in the same (common) crankcase and are lubricated with the same oil . This way you don’t have to think about what kind of oil needs to be poured and where. It is one!
engine's type
When buying oil for a motorcycle, you need to pay attention to its classification, as well as the content of special additives.
To choose which oil to put into your scooter, first consider the engine type: products for two-stroke engines are not suitable for four-stroke engines, and vice versa. The fundamental difference in operation: oil for two-stroke engines is mixed with gasoline in a ratio of 1:25 or 1:50, depending on the manufacturer’s recommendation. Lubricant replacement in four-stroke engines occurs by draining the old product from the oil tank, washing and filling with a new one.
The choice between mineral, semi-synthetic or synthetic oil for mopeds and scooters is not difficult. For economy class mopeds and scooters, mineral or semi-synthetic is perfect. Mineral varieties are the cheapest, so they are more often purchased by poor scooter owners. But when using them, you should remember that they are chemically unstable, so the timing of their replacement must be strictly observed. Semi-synthetics are preferable to mineral ones, but are noticeably more expensive. Synthetic oil is intended for high-speed boosted scooters, whose engines place increased demands on oil quality. It preserves engine life better, has better viscosity, lower volatility, and a wider range of operating temperatures. For inexpensive mopeds, synthetics are just an unnecessary luxury.
Special attention should be paid: mixing mineral, semi-synthetic and synthetic oils is strictly prohibited!
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Oil for four-stroke engines
This phrase means that you cannot fill a moped engine with two-stroke oil. The thing is that two-stroke engines have a completely different principle of engine lubrication: they mix oil with gasoline in certain proportions (either in a gas tank or using a special oil pump), and then, together with gasoline, first enter the engine crankcase, lubricating the bearings crankshaft and connecting rod, as well as the cylinder mirror. The mixture then enters the combustion chamber, where the oil burns along with gasoline and is discharged from the engine through the exhaust pipe. Thus, two-stroke oil is not designed for long-term use , it is “disposable”.
In most four-stroke engines (and the Alpha's engine is four-stroke), oil is poured into the engine crankcase and lubricates the rubbing parts either by splashing (due to the rotating parts of the engine) or under pressure (which is created by the oil pump). Oil also helps cool the engine. Therefore, the oil in a four-stroke engine must withstand long service life at high temperatures.
Some owners ask: “Do I need to add oil to gasoline?” Remember: for Alpha mopeds (Delta, Sabur, Vento, etc.) there is no need to add oil to gasoline!
Two-stroke engines
This is often oil for a motocross motorcycle (enduro, pit bike) or for the old Soviet Izh. Also, two strokes are often enough to quickly accelerate a 125cc scooter or motorbike. There are cheap synthetics and very high-quality synthetics that are worth filling, for example, for motocross or other intense wear. For example, 800 2T Factory Line Off Road Motul.
What quality indicators are required for such fuels and lubricants? First of all, this is resistance to soot formation, as well as the amount of smoke emitted during combustion, because the gasoline-oil mixture burns along with the fuel.
There is a division of oils into categories, here are the labels suitable for them:
But there is also a Japanese classification, according to which they distinguish:
Why shouldn’t you pour 4-stroke engine oil into such engines? Because they usually contain a large amount of additives that burn poorly in the fuel tank, leaving carbon deposits. This pollutes your device a lot, but, of course, you will be able to travel 100-200 km.
API classification
API is a quality classification system for automobile oils. The oil designation in this system consists of Latin letters.
The first part can be either S (Service) - oil for gasoline engines, C (Commercial) - oil for diesel engines, EC (Energy Conserving) - energy-saving oils.
The next letter is the designation of the oil generation. The designation is in alphabetical order, i.e. The farther the letter is from the beginning of the Latin alphabet, the higher the generation of oil (better performance qualities).
API categories SA, SB, SC, SD, SE, SF, SG are currently recognized as invalid, category SH is considered conditionally valid. Thus, oil of the SE and SF cannot be found on sale now. What kind of oil should you buy then? The answer is to buy any one that is further down the alphabet (SJ, SL, SM, SN), it will in any case be no worse than the recommended one.
Marking and viscosity
Engine wear is affected by the oil viscosity parameter
. The required viscosity depends on the operating temperature of the engine and is usually specified in the operating instructions. The generally accepted standard for designating viscosity according to the American SAE method: 5W40, 5W30, 10W40, 10W50 or simply SAE 40, SAE 50. Moreover, the first number indicates the viscosity of the oil in a cold engine, the second - in one warmed up to operating temperature. The letter W indicates that the oil belongs to winter or all-season varieties. Summer varieties do not have this letter and the first number (SAE 30, SAE 40). The lower the first number, the better the engine starts in cold weather. But if there is no need to ride a moped in winter, there is no point in using liquid oil. In warm weather, high viscosity provides better lubrication of power unit parts, the oil film on rubbing surfaces is not destroyed, and dry friction, overheating and destruction of parts are prevented.
For summer, viscosity 10W40, 10W50, SAE 30, SAE 40, etc. is more suitable. The higher the viscosity of the oil when hot (second number), the better suited the oil is for hot operating conditions. In mid-latitudes, SAE 30 or SAE 40 is quite suitable. In hot countries, SAE 50 and even SAE 60 are used.
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SAE classification
The latest edition of the classification divides motor oils into 11 classes: 6 winter (0W, 5W, 10W, 15W, 20W, 25W) and 5 summer (20, 30, 40, 50, 60) viscosity classes. The letter W (Winter) before the number means that the oil is adapted to work at low temperatures.
Most motor oils on the market today are all-season, that is, they meet viscosity requirements at both low and high temperatures and have a double designation, for example in our case: SAE 15W-40 . The first number characterizes the pumpability of the oil at low temperatures. If you subtract 35 from the first digit, you get the minimum temperature at which a safe cold start of the engine is possible. The second number is an indicator of oil viscosity at 100 degrees Celsius. If you add 5 to the second digit, you get the maximum permissible air temperature at which the oil can be used.
Viscosity and classification of motor oil
We use the American SAE designation system, which is most commonly used throughout the world. Nowadays, products are not divided by season, they are usually called non-seasonal, so it must remain sufficiently liquid during cold starts, and also not spread too much (be viscous) at high temperatures. In order to understand exactly what composition is in front of us according to these indicators, we use markings with the letter W and numbers. Those values that appear before the letter indicate the minimum possible temperature, and after - the maximum permissible. Example: 5W40, 10W30, 10W40 are not very viscous compounds that are well suited for those who like to ride in extreme conditions when the snow has not melted from the asphalt everywhere. This is a great option for pit bikes. But for heavy bikes and sportbikes, the more optimal ones are 10W50, 10W60, 15W50, 20W50 with increased viscosity.
Synthetic, semi-synthetic or mineral water?
It is generally accepted that synthetic oils are of the highest quality and almost extend the life of the engine. On the other hand, as I wrote above, now any oil that has been certified according to the API standard is suitable for use in the Alpha moped engine.
I chose the golden mean for myself: I pour semi-synthetics from imported manufacturers into my moped, because... the price of a liter of semi-synthetic oil is now not much different from the price of mineral oil.
But only now you can rarely find semi-synthetic 15W-40 on store shelves. Mostly mineral oils are sold with this designation. Therefore, I fill the engine with 10W-40 oil as the closest to the manufacturer’s recommendations.
Scooter with two-stroke engine
If the scooter engine is two-stroke, then the oil for it must be 2 tons. This type of scooter eats oil and is added in small doses to gasoline (in modern 2T scooters, oil is no longer diluted with gasoline thanks to a separate engine lubrication system). Therefore, the oil must be such that it mixes well with gasoline and does not settle at the bottom and clog the carburetor. 2t oil copes well with this.
What kind of oil to pour into a 2T scooter depends on your riding style. If you drive slowly around the city or on the highway, then semi-synthetic and mineral oil are suitable for you. But if you have severe frosts and bad weather conditions, or you are always moving at full throttle, then you need synthetic oil. It does not change its properties down to -35C. Of course, under such conditions it is not recommended to ride a scooter; in this case, a car would be more suitable. It is recommended to fill a scooter with a two-stroke engine with oil from the following manufacturers:
- Motul
- Mol Dynamic
- Castrol Power
- Castrol Act Evo
- Repsol Moto (Sintetico 2t, Off Road 2t, Racing 2t, Competicion 2T)
- And other quality oils.
And even if you have an old twenty-year-old scooter, do not neglect quality oil. It doesn’t matter whether the scooter is new or old, everyone is required to ride it.
How often should you change the oil in your moped?
In the operating instructions, the first oil change (on a new moped) is after 500 kilometers (TO-1). The second replacement is at 1500 km (TO-2). The third replacement is at 3000 km. (TO-3). Then every 2000 km. But there is an indication that if the moped is operated under increased loads and in dusty conditions, the oil needs to be changed (maintenance) more often.
Personally, I change the oil every 1500 km.
How much oil to pour into an Alpha engine?
The owner's manual says to fill the crankcase with 0.9 liters of four-stroke engine oil. In practice, it may turn out that not all of the old oil has left the engine. I usually do this: fill in 0.8-0.85 liters of oil, control its level with a dipstick and top up if necessary.
Where to fill oil in Alpha mopeds?
When faced with servicing a moped for the first time, many owners look for a separate oil filler neck on the engine. But in fact, the engine developers acted very wisely: oil is poured into the engine through the hole with the dipstick. It is located on the right side of the engine. To avoid spilling oil on the engine, I usually use a small plastic funnel bought at a hardware store; it makes filling quick and clean.
Write in the comments what oil you chose for your moped/motorcycle.
Rating of motorcycle oils by best brands
Brand awareness is not the most important indicator of quality. Below we will present a list of specific models and give a few words about them. We recommend basing your choice on the individual characteristics of the motorcycle. If you don’t know what composition is best to put in your bike, you can seek advice from the online store tvoymoto.ru; they offer a wide range of products and employ competent specialists.
LUKOIL MOTO 2T
Russian production. Very favorable price (from 139 rubles). Suitable for 2-stroke vehicles, mixed with gasoline in a ratio of 1:50. There are practically no fakes.
MANNOL 4TAKT PLUS 10W40
German brand. The composition is intended not only for motorcycles, but also for any four-stroke internal combustion engines. Semi-synthetics perfectly protect cylinders and pistons, as well as the transmission. Cost – from 350 rub.
Motul 300V Factory Line Road Racing 10W40
High-quality synthetics that protect even under extremely high loads. Suitable for sports bikes in racing conditions. The only downside can be the price - 1320 rubles per liter. The highest place in the ranking is 5 points.
REPSOL MOTO RACING 4T 10W40
The brand is completely specialized in motorcycles and takes into account all the operating features. It is 100% synthetic. Another advantage is good cleaning characteristics. Price – 1100 for 1l. The downside is that it is not available in all stores.
LIQUI MOLY Motorbike 4T 15W-50 Street 4 l
Let us note the versatility of the German expensive product (more than 2,000) - it is suitable for motorcycles, ATVs, and even motor boats.
MOTUL 7100 4T 10W-50
One of the special merits of fuels and lubricants is a very effective reduction of friction, due to which the heating of parts occurs much less, and their service life increases. Unfortunately, it can be difficult to find a product even in Russian online stores.
Eni/Agip i-Ride Scooter 2T
Italian version for two-stroke engines. Plus – low sulfur content. This leads to the fact that mixing with gasoline occurs quickly and homogeneously, and during use there is practically no formation of soot.
IDEMITSU 4T Max Eco 10W-30
This is a mineral product from Japan with very high efficiency. The low oil consumption is especially noticeable over long distances. Users also note a decrease in vibrations and noise.
ZIC M9 4T 10W-40
South Korean lubricant suitable for high loads. Additionally, it protects against oxidative processes and friction.
ELF HTX 3818 SAE 5W-30
Very versatile, but most suited to race track bikes. Viscosity is maintained so well at high speeds and, accordingly, friction. The price for it is really high - from 1000 per liter. If you find it cheaper, most likely it’s a fake; there are a lot of them.
ELF MOTO 4 ROAD 10W-40
Due to the effect on the pressure inside the engine, the dynamics improve. Most people note that road and motocross bikes start to go faster. At the same time, the wear resistance of spare parts also increases.
MOBIL 1 Racing 4T 15W-50
High-quality synthetics with additives for equipment with increased power. Finnish lubricant is considered one of the best in terms of engine starting in cold weather conditions.
CASTROL Power 1 Racing 4T 10W-40
Semi-synthetics, which move very quickly along the highways, guaranteeing a high speed of acceleration. Friction and oxidation do not interfere. There is a drawback - cold starting is problematic, it should be used in the summer.
KAWASAKI Performance Oils 4-Stroke Engine Oil Semi Synthetic SAE 10W-40
Produced by a famous motorcycle brand, the product is of course recommended for the entire Kawasaki four-stroke line. It is positioned as resistant to wear, prevents rust and is very gentle on rubber seals.
Eurol Motorcycle 10W-40
Good protection at sub-zero temperatures - the oil film remains in a strong layer throughout use. But the Netherlands hasn't made enough provisions for friction-reducing additives.
What kind of oil to pour into the engine of an Alpha moped. : 10 comments
Thank you very much, I read all your articles and more and study them. In October 2021 I’m taking an alpha like 110, with a mileage of about 3 thousand km for 12 thousand rubles. At a friend's place. I am 28 years old, this will be my first motor. Previously it was 21099, I changed the clutch myself and cleaned, washed and adjusted the entire carbure. But I sold it because I didn’t drive it. Previously, I studied to be an auto mechanic, by the way, with honors... But for 10 years now I haven’t even read a single article about internal combustion engines and auto moto... I have gone very far from auto moto... I FORGOT EVERYTHING... And nostalgia has taken over. But still, having experience, albeit long-standing and theoretical, having ridden the alpha and studied it, I realized that the moped is affordable and normal for the money. And with proper care, it will please you. I decided to take it. At the same time, I’ll ask something about my future moped in your corresponding thread... I’ll wait for an answer. My name is Pasha.
Tell me, if the mileage on a moped is 70 km, and a year has passed, should the oil be changed?
I did not find any direct instructions in the instructions about changing the oil on time. And in theory it should be enough for 500 km. running-in. But oil loses its properties over time, and no one knows what kind of oil was originally poured. Therefore, to be sure, you can change the oil, especially since a liter of semi-synthetic now costs about 300 rubles.
If on the canister you filled it it is written that the expiration date is 1 year, then yes it is necessary.))))) If not. Then roll on some more kilometers...)
The fact of the matter is that there is no canister; with a mileage of 70 km, the oil must be filled in from the factory (or from the store where the moped was assembled). And what was poured there, and how long ago it was poured, no one knows. Of course, the oil lasts much longer than a year, but if in doubt, it’s easier to replace it and forget about it. Moreover, the replacement price is about 300 rubles + 30 minutes of time spent. Although I don’t think that if you don’t replace it, something terrible will happen in the 430 km remaining before replacement.
Scooter with two-stroke engine
If the scooter engine is two-stroke, then the oil for it must be 2 tons. This type of scooter eats oil and is added in small doses to gasoline (in modern 2T scooters, oil is no longer diluted with gasoline thanks to a separate engine lubrication system). Therefore, the oil must be such that it mixes well with gasoline and does not settle at the bottom and clog the carburetor. 2t oil copes well with this.
What kind of oil to pour into a 2T scooter depends on your riding style. If you drive slowly around the city or on the highway, then semi-synthetic and mineral oil are suitable for you. But if you have severe frosts and bad weather conditions, or you are always moving at full throttle, then you need synthetic oil. It does not change its properties down to -35C. Of course, under such conditions it is not recommended to ride a scooter; in this case, a car would be more suitable. It is recommended to fill a scooter with a two-stroke engine with oil from the following manufacturers:
- Motul
- Mol Dynamic
- Castrol Power
- Castrol Act Evo
- Repsol Moto (Sintetico 2t, Off Road 2t, Racing 2t, Competicion 2T)
- And other quality oils.
And even if you have an old twenty-year-old scooter, do not neglect quality oil. It doesn’t matter whether the scooter is new or old, everyone is required to ride it.
Preparation
In order to throw the oil glass away from the engine, everything else. engine
Before changing the oil, it must be thoroughly warmed up. Or what would be better. Start changing the oil immediately after a 5-10 km trip.
The second preparatory step is that we need to prepare a level platform in advance on which the scooter should be installed in the flattest position and prepare a suitable container for waste oil.
The tools you use also play a strong role. Don't skimp. buy a new head with a collar. You only need two parts: 17 and 10. Those who ignore this point. then he pays a lot out of his own pocket.
How to change the oil on an alpha moped
1. Unscrew the bolt on the bottom of the crankcase 2. Wait for oil
will merge 3. Fill in a new one 4 Rejoice)))
While the oil is draining. go to the right side of the scooter. unscrew the control probe and the oil filter plug located at the very bottom of the engine.
We put a good head on the plug on the plug, turned it and pulled it out of the engine with all its contents.
This is an oil filter. Immediately after twisting it, while the point is yes. throw all this garbage into clean gasoline, have a good chat there, and then blow and dry.
After the oil filter plug has been removed from the engine. To dislodge any remaining engine oil, bleed the engine several times using a kickstarter.
After this we will wait about five minutes. wipe the drainage holes dry, for greater reliability we place sealant on the plugs and screw them into place.
Quality Standards
Motor oils have various specifications indicating their quality: API, JACO and others.
The oil standard is indicated on the canister. After the letters API there is a letter designation of oil quality: from SA to SM. The S scale indicates that the oil belongs to gasoline engines; the quality scale is indicated by letters from A (low quality) to M (high quality). A total of 11 quality classes are provided: A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H, J, L and M. Products with specifications from SA to SE are currently almost never produced and are only suitable for older equipment manufactured in 80s or 90s. Modern mopeds and scooters consume oil of at least SF quality, but it is better if it is SH, SJ or SL.
SH - products for engines manufactured after 1994. SJ - for engines manufactured after 1996. SL – for engines after 2000. SM – for engines after 2006.
API-TA is required for two-stroke moped and lawn mower engines. For large capacity two-stroke engines of low power - API-TB standard. For powerful large-capacity two-stroke engines - the API-TC standard.
The Japanese JASO standard is intended for models of mopeds and motorcycles with a “wet” clutch, that is, a clutch operating in an oil bath. With this design, the power unit and clutch use the same oil. Accordingly, changing the transmission oil on the scooter will occur simultaneously with replacing the engine oil. Therefore, using a high quality, low friction product may cause this clutch to slip. JASO is suitable for motorcycles manufactured before 1994 or copied models of that time. For modern mopeds and scooters, you should choose JASO MA, JASO MA-1 with a high friction coefficient. The JASO MA-2 standard has an even higher coefficient of friction, but is intended for sports mopeds and scooters. JASO MB has a low coefficient of friction and is not suitable for wet clutch vehicles.
For two-stroke engines, the JASO standard has completely different designations. JASO FA - intended for use in developing countries. JASO FB is the minimum quality standard for Japan. JASO FC is a smokeless oil for a wide range of two-stroke engines made in Japan. JASO FD – for two-stroke engines with increased requirements for the quality of motor oils.
The European ACEA oil quality designation standard is often found. Grades ACEA A1 to ACEA A5 are intended for four-stroke gasoline engines (two-stroke engines are not produced in Europe). Moreover, category A2 denotes the lowest quality oil, and A4 - the highest quality. For engines with normal operating characteristics, category A2 is recommended. Category A3 is recommended for use in motors with high performance. Category A4 is used in motorsports. Certain categories A1 (with particularly low viscosity) and A5 (the latest oils) are not suitable for all engines and are used only in cases where this is directly specified by the manufacturer.
Mopeds and mokicks made in China. Design, operation, maintenance. Delta, Musstang, Leader, Dingo, Sagitta, HongDou, Jianshe, Loncin, Simple, Zip Star, Alpa, Farmer, Dino Eriskay. >>
Maintenance of the moped. Changing the engine oil.
Bykov K.P., Shlenchik T.A.
Changing the engine oil
The engine oil is changed after 1,000 km, and then every 2,000 km.
Changing the engine oil is done on a hot engine in the following order (Fig. 18): remove the oil dipstick (Fig. 18.1) and unscrew the nut to drain the oil (Fig. 18.2); drain the used oil (Fig. 18.3); After checking the condition of the sealing gasket of the oil drain nut, tighten the nut (tightening torque 2.3 kgcm); pour approximately 0.7 liters of oil into the crankcase through the hole for the oil dipstick (Fig. 18.4); reinstall the oil dipstick; start the engine and let it run for a few minutes at idle speed, stop the engine; Check the oil level and, if necessary, bring it to normal.
Rice. 18. Changing engine oil
How to understand modern oil labeling?
Recently, many brands of motor and transmission oils from various companies have appeared on sale: SHELL, BP, CASTROL, MOTUL, NESTE, MOBIL, TEXACO, ELF, TEDEX, VALVOLINE, TEBOIL, etc. How to make sense of all this abundance and understand the principle of oil selection ? All oils have many indicators indicated in the technical specifications, but we, as buyers, should be interested in only two of them: quality level (will it suit my motorcycle) and viscosity (is it suitable for the upcoming season and in general for this climate). The answer to these questions is contained in the labeling of any commercial grade - the globally accepted indexing system for motor oils.
Viscosity is determined and indicated according to the method of the American Society of Automotive Engineers SAE (SOCIETy OF AUTOMOTIVE ENGINEERS). The letters SAE on the label mean that the subsequent numbers characterize the viscosity of the oil. Only viscosity, and nothing more! The letter W (WINTER - winter) is placed in the designations of winter varieties (SAE 5W, SAE 15W), while summer varieties do not have any letter (SAE 40, SAE 50). In all-season varieties, in the viscosity marking, after the letters SAE, the winter indicator first follows, and then the summer indicator. Between the two designations there is usually a hyphen or fraction sign, and sometimes nothing at all. For example, SAE 15W-40, SAE 10W/40, SAE 15W40. An example of motor oil marking is shown in Fig. 16, and the manufacturer's recommendations regarding the use of motor oils for gasoline engines are given in Table. 4.
Table 4. Classification of the quality level of motor oils no API.
| Designation | Application |
| For gasoline engines | |
| For designs from 1980-1988 | |
| For forced engines, production of which began in 1989-1994 | |
| For forced engines, production of which began in 1994-1996 | |
| For forced engines, production of which began in 1996-2000 | |
| For forced engines, the production of which began in 2000-20006 | |
| Newly introduced highest quality class for petrol engines | |
| For diesel engines | |
| Engines produced since 1988 | |
| Improved CD-II performance for two-stroke engines | |
| Engines manufactured since 1994. Improved CF-4 performance and stricter exhaust emission requirements |
Now about assessing the quality of the oil level. Here, the qualification system developed by the American Petroleum Institute API (AMERICAN PETROLEUM INSTITUTE) has become the international language. The Institute regularly tests all motor oils and, based on their results, assigns a quality index in accordance with the requirements of car designers. The letters API on the label precede the quality class symbols. There are two of them: S scale - use in gasoline engines; scale C - use in diesel engines. The steps of the quality level are indicated by Latin letters. The API system has 11 classes for gasoline engines (A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H, J, L and M) and 7 classes for diesel engines (A, B, C, D, E, F , G).
For gasoline engines, oils with the designations SF, SG, SH, SJ and SM are currently used, and for diesel engines - CD, CE, CF and CG. Oils of old brands - from SA to SE and from SA to SS - have passed the stage and are no longer produced. The container may be marked with the index SG-CE or SF-CD, allowing use in gasoline and diesel engines. Often on the packaging there are certificate numbers from car manufacturers, who assign them after factory tests. Examples of viscosity and oil class markings are shown in Fig. 19.
Rice. 19. Designation of motor oils: 1 - viscosity; 2 - quality class.
A lot of questions arise from people who are servicing a moped themselves for the first time.
The operating instructions require the use of oil for four-stroke engines, API SE,SF, with a viscosity of SAE 15W40.
Let's try to figure out what this means.
Checking the oil level
The oil level is checked as follows: pour the first portion of oil into the engine approximately 600-700 ml, wait a few minutes until the oil spreads evenly onto the crankcase without twisting, insert the dipstick into the neck, pull it out and look at the level.
The oil level should be in the control section.
- If the level is less. add some oil
, wait a couple of minutes and take a measurement. - If the oil level is higher than normal. drain it or better yet. pump it with a syringe with a tube from the neck.
The control section is indicated by red arrows. In my case, the oil level is exactly in the middle of the control section and is indicated by a blue arrow. Ideally, the oil level should be in an area outside the control interface. But this is ideal, but in practice. the average level is quite acceptable and does not affect the reliability and durability of the engine.
Changing the oil of a four-stroke scooter engine
Author's article Tron Igor
General recommendations for scooter maintenance Proper running-in of the scooter Adjusting the scooter valve clearances Centrifugal clutch - removing, installing, replacing pads Is the flying season over? It's time to think about preserving your scooter Spring delights or How to start a scooter after winter Instructions on changing the engine oil of a scooter Instructions on changing the transmission oil of a scooter Instructions on cleaning the air filter of a scooter Checking and replacing a scooter's variator belt Replacing a scooter's variator belt without disassembling the variator Scooter tires Maintenance of cables, locks and other scooter mechanisms Replacement of wheel bearings and brake disc Repair and maintenance of chain scooter transmission
Tools and materials: 17 (or 19) socket wrench, 1 liter container, preferably wide so as not to tip over, funnel, some gasoline, rags.
Although there is nothing supernatural in this, we will describe the process for beginners.
First you need to warm up the engine for 5-10 minutes. This will thin the oil, making it easier to change, and will also lift and mix dirt (if any) with the oil.
It is also advisable to clean the area around the filler and drain holes of any dirt. The filler is located on the left side, next to the generator flywheel. There are usually two drain holes - one at the bottom of the engine, the other on the side, on the left (see photo).
Unscrew the cap (also the dipstick) of the filler hole. Without this, the oil will not drain. Next, slowly unscrew the drain hole nut. It is better to unscrew the bottom drain to rinse the metal filter. Be careful, there is a spring on the nut that can jump, and a filter, don’t lose them. Remember how they are located. You'll have to get a little dirty, it's not fatal)). While the oil is draining, wash the nut, filter and spring with gasoline. As soon as it drains, you can still rock the moped to the sides and drain it a little more.
Tighten the nut with the filter and spring. Let's start filling in new oil.
Using a funnel, fill the crankcase with oil. Be careful here - you need to pour slowly, and of course, leave room for air to escape. At the same time, we make sure not to overfill the crankcase. The first 700 ml can be poured safely, then more carefully - different mopeds require from 800 to 1000 ml of oil. It is necessary to eliminate both shortage and excess of oil. Excess can be removed using an empty tube of gear oil - these tubes, as a rule, have a long spout, which is just suitable for our case. Check the level using the dipstick.
Ready. Check the level periodically, top up if necessary.
Motorcycle oil must be used for four-stroke engines. Viscosity depends on the engine and time of year. Read more about scooter oils.
See the manual for replacement intervals. If it is not there, usually the first oil change is done after the first 300 - 500 km. The second after 1000. Then every 2000 - 4000. (On my Baotian every 3000 km).
General recommendations for scooter maintenance Proper running-in of the scooter Adjusting the scooter valve clearances Centrifugal clutch - removing, installing, replacing pads Is the flying season over? It's time to think about preserving your scooter Spring delights or How to start a scooter after winter Instructions on changing the engine oil of a scooter Instructions on changing the transmission oil of a scooter Instructions on cleaning the air filter of a scooter Checking and replacing a scooter's variator belt Replacing a scooter's variator belt without disassembling the variator Scooter tires Maintenance of cables, locks and other scooter mechanisms Replacement of wheel bearings and brake disc Repair and maintenance of chain scooter transmission
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#1 Alexander
24 April 2010 18:42
Tell me, is it possible to use car oil, I have a Chinese four-stroke irbis
#2 chondray
19 May 2010 21:42
My Honda Dio is filled with Spectrol semi-synthetic, but in the future I want something else semi-synthetic, the question is, do I need to wash everything if the semi-synthetic is mixed with semi-synthetic? Anyone who knows a lot about this, please give an answer. Thank you.
#3 zagirych
09 July 2010 15:03
Tell me, the Nexus Matrix has a mileage of 500 km. Today I changed the oil on the engine, drained the old oil exactly 550 ml, but I don’t know how much to fill and how to check with a dipstick, but I read that you need to fill 800 ml, and on the dipstick on the old oil a trace of oil showed above the mark when unscrewed. Maybe someone can explain ????
#4 vagan
18 July 2010 23:18
At the end of the probe, as a rule, there are maximum or minimum marks, or convolutions from 3 to 5 cm. There is a space between them. It doesn’t depend on how much you need to fill according to the instructions.
#5 Next-M
21 July 2010 18:29
Pour between the marks. After draining the waste oil, oil remains in the engine. So it will fit less than according to the instructions.
#6 Anton
29 July 2010 11:38
please tell me I bought a 150cc Vulcan and where is the oil filter located, they say it needs to be washed
#7 Rustam
05 August 2010 09:19
Tell me how to change the engine oil on a 2-stroke Honda, I couldn’t find a drain bolt or a place to fill it from
#8 zagirych
07 August 2010 11:28
Thank you very much for the advice vagan and Next-M!!!! Happy riding everyone)))))
#9 Lekha
10 August 2010 00:23
Rustam on a 2-stroke Honda does not change anything, only the oil in the transmission is changed
#10 Rustam
18 August 2010 17:26
Lekha Thank you
#11 DRoN
23 August 2010 23:44
Guys, tell me, if the oil is not dark, but light brown, it needs to be changed? and the mileage is 2500 - the oil was changed once every 500 km
#12 Victor
24 August 2010 20:38
I had the oil changed at the service center after 300 km, then after 1000 km they started changing it. There was another technician and he didn’t find a filter in the drain hole of the scooter under warranty, but he didn’t install anything, what can I do? Can I ride?
#13 sem
29 August 2010 17:07
hello, I have a 4-stroke afterburner supermoto 50, the oil was changed after 400-600 km (I don’t know for sure, there is no speedometer), the oil was changed, but I don’t know: was the oil filter cleaned (I did it at the service station) I drove on this oil last August and 2 months this season (about 20 km a day) now the oil is dark brown (in the oil tank), but one thing alerted me: when unscrewing the drain bolt on the cylinder, black waste oil began to flow, the question is: could the oil filter become clogged during this time so much so that oil does not circulate in the engine, but the pistons run on the same oil?
#14 Max
27 October 2010 17:19
How to change the oil in a Keway scooter? When is it better to change the oil, in winter or spring?
#15 goos
10 November 2010 13:35
Removed (censored)
#16 Ivan
08 February 2011 11:38
As soon as it drains, you can still rock the moped to the sides and drain it a little more.
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It’s better to “pump” it with Kickstarter - it’ll be more useful!
#17 Igor
15 April 2011 22:43
What happens if you don’t clean the metal filter before changing the engine oil?
#18 Andrey!!
16 April 2011 18:32
Guys, how do you check the oil in a four-stroke scooter? Should you screw in the dipstick or not???
#19 Igor
21 April 2011 20:41
The oil level is approximately half the dipstick.
#20 Fox
21 May 2011 15:55
There is no need to tighten the dipstick when checking the level.
Before checking the level in 4-stroke engines, wait a few minutes after stopping the engine - allow time for the oil to drain into the sump. The scooter must stand strictly vertically. Unscrew the dipstick and wipe it dry with a rag or paper towel. Insert the dipstick into place without tightening the thread, and remove it again - the oil trail should end at its grooved part.
Home Scooter maintenance Changing the oil of a four-stroke scooter engine
Changing the gearbox oil
At the very bottom of the engine on the left side of the road. we are looking for a drain plug and plug. The jam is on the side or top, and the drain is always on the bottom.
We replace the drain plug container, we unscrew both plugs.
We wait about ten minutes until the old oil drains from the gearbox.
Clean the drain hole and plug, apply sealant to the plug and screw it into place.
We take oil. I take a liter container so inexpensive and enough for about 10 replacements. If you change your oil infrequently. Buy a special tube of patented scooter gear oil. This is more than enough for one replacement and without additional headache, punch it with a special spout into the filled hole.
For those who prefer to save money. There is only one thing left: pump the oil in the gearbox in small portions using a regular syringe. Otherwise, unfortunately, the oil in the gearbox cannot be drained because the filling hole is too small.
Checking the gearbox oil level
We pump the same control into the filler hole. oil exactly until it starts to flow out of it. As soon as the oil starts flowing. Stop pouring and wait a few minutes until the excess flows out and wraps around the plug.
On some scooter models, there is no way through which we can determine the required oil level, and instead there is a boost jumper and drain. In this case, the recommended oil level should be indicated on the engine crankcase. This makes the job easier: measure the required amount of oil and pour it through the filler hole in the gearbox.
