How many types of motorcycles are there? How are they all different from each other? First things first.
So, you decided to get yourself a motorcycle, a two-wheeled stallion, or you were just interested in learning more about the world of bikes. So we warn you right away, there are many types of iron horses and each of them is good in its own way.
However, first, let's go back a little to the past, or rather the 19th century. It was then that the first device was built, which gave impetus to the development of the world of motorcycles - the Daimler Reitwagen. It was a 260cc car with only half the horsepower. And yet it was he who pioneered the era of new vehicles.
(Daimler Reitwagen © Wikipedia)
Now let's look at all these modern representatives of this world. Next you will see a breakdown by class, examples with photographs and prices. This is not the entire list, since there are a huge number of categories, and new custom-made models with a unique design are constantly being released. Plus, all motorcycles can appear in several groups at once (we will explain this point later in the article). But we tried to collect for you a description of the main types of bikes, but even among them there are very similar to each other. So let's get started!
Motorcycle controls
They control the motorcycle using the steering wheel, levers and pedals, as well as electrical buttons and switches.
The location of the controls on the steering wheel is identical for all motorcycles: on the right is the rotary throttle control handle (gas handle) and the front brake lever, on the left is the clutch lever. Location of motorcycle controls:
- 2 — gear shift lever;
- 5 — direction indicator switch;
- 6 — sound signal button;
- 7— headlight switch;
- 8 — starting enrichment shifter;
- 10 — engine emergency switch;
- 11 — front brake lever;
- 13 — rear brake pedal;
Using the throttle handle, you control the rotation speed (in common parlance - revolutions) of the crankshaft of a motorcycle engine. To increase them, turn the throttle handle toward you; when the handle is released, the spring returns it to the idle position. Pulling the clutch lever to the steering wheel with your fingers disconnects the engine from the transmission, and using the front brake lever brakes the front wheel of the motorcycle. To apply the rear brake, press the pedal located near the right footrest with your right foot.
Some motorcycles also have a decompressor drive lever and a rotary lever (shifter) of the enrichment device installed on the steering wheel. The decompressor facilitates starting by communicating the cylinder combustion chamber with the atmosphere. It is driven by a cable connected to a lever on the steering wheel. Some foreign motorcycles have a mechanism for automatically turning on the decompressor when starting with a kick starter.
The enricher lever (also called a fuel corrector, on foreign motorcycles it is designated Choke) connects the lever on the steering wheel with a cable to the mixture enrichment system in the carburetor. This system is used when starting a cold motorcycle engine, when a richer mixture is required. On many motorcycles, the starter enricher is activated by a lever mounted directly on the carburetor.
The fuel valve, which controls the supply of gasoline to the engine, is located under the fuel tank. It has three positions in which: the main fuel supply is turned on (On); Reserve enabled; fuel supply is turned off (Off).
The ignition switch is most often located on the dashboard or in the headlight housing. Different key positions correspond to the activation of various circuits in the electrical system (On, Off, Park) or the steering wheel lock (Lock). On the steering wheel handles there are buttons and switches for the electrical system: on the right - a light switch, an electric starter button (if provided) and an emergency engine switch (Stop); on the left is a switch for direction indicators and headlights (high-low) with a horn button.
The foot start lever for a motorcycle engine (kick starter) can be located either on the right (all foreign motorcycles) or on the left. When starting the engine, press it down vigorously with your foot.
The gear shift lever is located on the left side of the engine or gearbox (if it is made in a separate housing from the engine). The order of gear shifting on all motorcycles is the same: 1st gear - lever down, all others - up. To engage each gear, the driver presses the shift lever all the way. Only engaging neutral gear ("neutral"), in which the engine is decoupled from the transmission, requires a "half" shift of the lever. Modern foreign motorcycles have 5 gears (less often 6) and one “neutral” (between 1st and 2nd gears); most Russian (as well as Czech, Ukrainian and Belarusian) have 4 gears.
Motorcycle control instruments are located on the dashboard in the driver’s field of vision. These include: speedometer, tachometer, coolant (oil) temperature indicators, fuel quantity, battery charge. In addition, the lamps on the instrument panel indicate a low battery, low oil pressure or insufficient oil quantity; about turning on: high beam headlights, “neutral” in the gearbox, direction indicators. The speedometer shows the speed of the motorcycle, the tachometer shows the rotation speed of the motorcycle engine.
ATTENTION – reprinting of this article is PROHIBITED, posting the original article on other resources will be suppressed! Author © Kravchenko Dmitry https://pride-u-bike.com/
What is an ape hanger steering wheel?
Ape hanger steering wheel (ape hanger) is what is most often meant when talking about a high steering wheel on a chopper. This type of handlebars got its name from the resemblance between a biker and a monkey sitting on a motorcycle - the arms are raised up and extended forward. The issue of convenience, of course, is relative, and depends on the specific motorcycle, the specific handlebar, the height of the motorcyclist and the length of his arms. If you want to install an ape hanger steering wheel on your chopper, then you should immediately think through all the key points. Firstly, no matter how trite, you should be comfortable. Sit on the motorcycle, using your hands to measure where your palms will be. Comfortable? Fine. Now imagine that in this position you will drive, perhaps for many hours in a row. Still comfortable? Great! It is worth paying attention so that your palms are not much higher than your shoulders. Of course, such a landing will look impressive, but the blood will drain from the hands, and they will simply numb. The most comfortable handlebar height for most ape hangers is one in which the palms are at shoulder level or slightly higher, in which case the hands will not become numb due to the outflow of blood, and at the same time the incoming air flow will support them while driving.
The width of the steering wheel is also a strictly individual matter.
A typical apehanger handlebar can be of any width - whatever is convenient for you personally. The author of these lines, for example, likes high chopper steering wheels - they are both comfortable and beautiful, but with a wide steering wheel I personally find it uncomfortable, since at the extreme points of rotation of the steering wheel I have to reach for it. If the steering wheel is narrower, then this problem does not arise. The width of the steering wheel affects handling, but not much. More precisely, with a narrow steering wheel, regardless of its width, it becomes much more difficult to move it statically while standing still, but it is still convenient to control while moving. And you can get used to everything, so there won’t be any problems with it. If you decide to install an ape hanger for yourself, then keep in mind that some minor modifications will be required. Firstly, you will need to install longer cables, either purchasing them or making them yourself from a couple of donors. Secondly, you will have to increase the wiring running along the steering wheel, if there is one, of course. Thirdly, the brake hoses will need to be replaced. The last point, by the way, is a good reason to immediately kill two birds with one stone and at the same time upgrade the brake system of your motorcycle by installing reinforced brake hoses. Yes, all this will require some effort, but the result will undoubtedly please the soul of any chopper lover.
CHAPTER 2. MOTORCYCLE SETUP. Spend time on your bike
Few people can tune a bike better than Jeremy McGrath, which makes it seem like he's putting no effort into it on the track.
Over the past ten years, technology has advanced by leaps and bounds, and along with this, the importance of proper motorcycle setup has increased. In addition to routine maintenance, the motorcycle must be customized for a specific person, taking into account his height, weight, physical condition and riding style. But you also need to take into account the weather and the characteristics of the route. In general, the number of settings options is difficult to count, and their need is difficult to overestimate.
Experienced riders are one with the bike, flowing through the terrain rather than fighting it. A motorcycle should be an extension of your body, which means it should fit you like a glove.
Proper setup is absolutely essential. The better the bike suits your needs, the more fun you'll have. In the photo, Steve Hatch adjusts the position of the brake and clutch levers in his home workshop in Scottdale, Arizona. In an attacking stance, the arms are angled at the same angle as the arms, or slightly lower. A good start for your own research
Tuning is not a one-time event, it is a process that takes hours and days, even if you ride the same track and the same conditions. Therefore, it is very important to keep a log that records all the measures taken. In this chapter you will find general recommendations on the basis of which you can find your own settings.
Steering wheel
It is very important to choose the right steering wheel. On sale you can find a large number of steering wheels of different heights and widths.
In general, tall drivers prefer tall handlebars, while less vertically gifted riders prefer low handlebars. However, personal preferences may vary, so try a few options.
To figure out which steering wheel you need, do the following: Loosen the steering wheel and turn it so that it is as far away from you as possible. Then place the motorcycle on the platform, sit in the saddle as you usually sit when riding, and close your eyes. Now reach out and grab an imaginary steering wheel. It will be the most suitable one for you. All that remains is to adjust the real steering wheel to the imaginary one.
Turn the steering wheel back and tighten the bolts. Sit back down, close your eyes and grab the steering wheel. It is possible that the steering wheel will not be in the ideal position. Try to adjust the steering wheel to your imaginary ideal. If this turns out to be impossible, find yourself another one. It is best to take the old steering wheel with you to the store and compare it with the new ones. This makes it easier to choose a model that will be higher or lower, closer or further away, etc.
The stance affects your preferences when choosing a steering wheel. The stance will change as you become more proficient, so check periodically to make sure the handlebars are still comfortable for you.
The latest fashion in the design of handlebars is to make the lower part of the tube very thick. The Renthal Twinwall and Answer Protaper are renowned for being the strongest handlebars on the market. Unfortunately, they require special clamps, and in some cases special traverses
Regardless of your preferred steering wheel shape, you should choose aluminum models because they are stronger. Steel ones are cheaper, but they are also easier to bend. Aluminum handlebars, especially high-quality ones, will make up the difference in price after a few minor falls. In addition to regular steering wheels, Renthal produces a very popular line of models, tested on the tracks of world and national championships.
Answer Product's ProTaper handlebars are barless and, as the name suggests, taper to a point. At the base, which is attached to the upper traverse, the steering wheel is very thick. ProTaper costs about $180 and does not include mounting hardware. If your bike has removable clamps, you'll just need to buy wider ones for $50, but if not, you'll have to fork out for a new top clamp for $150. But these expenses will pay off very quickly, especially if you are one of those daredevils who constantly bend the steering wheels.
The width of the steering wheel can also vary. Crossmen and rally raid participants use standard handlebars, 30-31 inches wide. In country cross and enduro, the handlebars are narrower, 28-29 inches, because on a narrow motorcycle it is easier to get through the trees in the forest. Remember that the narrower the steering wheel, the more difficult it is to steer, because the leverage is less.
But now you have bought a steering wheel of a suitable shape and width, all that remains is to choose the angle of inclination. Most riders prefer to mount it parallel to the ground, but some, like Ricky Carmichael, mount it much lower, with a strong angle. It looks awkward, but for the aggressive riding of the short Carmichael it is what is needed.
Composite handlebar clamps
This upper crossbar features removable handlebar clamps made for Twinwall or Protaper handlebars. The clamps can be rotated, thus changing the distance between the handlebar and the rider. Some companies make clamps of different heights to increase the adjustment range
In the early 90s, composite clamps appeared on the market, allowing you to change the location of the steering wheel. It became possible to place it closer or further from the rider. Some models allow you to adjust the mounting height. Some motorcycles are already equipped with rubber-mounted handlebar clamps. They can be turned 180 degrees to change the distance between the handlebars and the seat. As a rule, the range of adjustments is not very wide, so the possibility itself rather belongs to the area of fine tuning.
Racing teams order sets of clamps of different heights in 1mm increments for uncompromising customization for the individual rider. Many companies make composite triple clamps, but the most well-known products are from Pro Circuit, Factory Connection, RG3, BPR and Applied Racing.
Handles
Handles come in a variety of shapes and sizes, and are made from different types of rubber. They cost no more than 10-15 dollars, but greatly affect handling. So don't be afraid to experiment
In stores you can find a variety of handles for every taste and budget. To avoid blisters, many riders cut off several layers of rubber. However, these grips become more slippery, which is especially bad in wet racing conditions. Crossmen prefer softer handles, endurists prefer harder handles because they wear out less.
Not a single serious racer can do without a special wire. In addition to bolts and nuts, it is also used to fix handlebars on the steering wheel.
The handles must be glued to the steering wheel with special glue and additionally secured with wire, otherwise there is a possibility that they will come off the steering wheel during the race and get lost.
Levers
The brake levers must be within reach regardless of the rider's position on the motorcycle. If they are fixed too high, they are inconvenient to use when riding while standing, and if they are fixed too low, then when riding while sitting.
The brake and clutch levers should be 10 mm shorter than the steering wheel, then they will be less likely to break when dropped. To measure, simply press the lever against the steering wheel
First, loosen the levers and sit on the motorcycle. Rotate the levers so that they are in line with your hands when you sit in the attack position, and tighten them according to the manufacturer's recommendations. In a normal stance, your fingers should rest comfortably on the levers. If your arms are in the correct position (elbows raised), the levers will be rotated forward. When adjusting the levers, ensure correct body position.
The ends of the arms should be approximately 10mm from the ends of the handlebars, otherwise they may break if dropped. ASV and ARC produce their own levers that bend forward when dropped. They cost $60 each, but racers love them for their incredible reliability.
The clutch lever and clamp for the late Honda CR125 or CR125R will fit perfectly on other motorcycles as well. Honda clamps allow you to perfectly adjust the force on the levers and can be used with many models of motocross and off-road motorcycles.
Clutch lever clamp
Clamps from third-party manufacturers, unlike factory ones, have some interesting features. The most advanced ones are equipped with a nylon liner that is attached between the clamp and the steering wheel. Thanks to it, the clamp holds tightly, but rotates when dropped, protecting the lever from breaking. Modern clamps allow you to change the distance from the lever to the steering wheel, which allows you to adjust them to different palm sizes. They also make it easier to tighten the clutch cable, which can now be done even during a race. Owners of four-stroke motorcycles should pay attention to clamps with an integrated choke lever (hot start lever), they allow you to clear space on the handlebars.
Seat
The seat also needs to be customized to suit the rider, either by using a cover or changing its padding. Although most athletes are quite happy with factory saddles, you can find seats on the market with padding of varying firmness. The covers are made from more frictional materials, which eliminates all unwanted fidgeting during the race. They work especially well when seated correctly, with the rider gripping the bike with his knees.
If you are tall or have knee problems, make your saddle taller by adding foam under the padding. Shorter riders should reduce their saddle height by cutting off the foam with a large kitchen knife. For supercross, the saddle is cut off at the tank, allowing for the correct cornering position. In any case, do not cut off too much, otherwise the plastic base of the saddle will knock off your butt.
Gear shift lever
Thanks to the fact that the seat on the axle is cut with fine teeth, the lever can be adjusted to suit any rider. Non-original levers differ in shape from factory ones and, as a rule, they are cheaper. They are made of steel, so although they are heavier, they are stronger than the original aluminum ones.
To begin, place the gear shift pedal at the same level as the footrest.
The lever should be installed so that it is flush with the footrest. If you like, you can set it a little higher or lower, as long as you can change gears both sitting and standing.
Brake pedal
The brake pedal is usually installed slightly below the footrest.
Her position is no less important. To begin, install it so that it is at the same level as the footrest. Then try placing it higher or lower. The goal is to ensure that you can brake effectively both sitting and standing. Once you find a suitable position, check to see if the pads are biting. Since the pads expand when heated, run the rear brakes hard for a few laps and then recheck their position.
Tires
If you have seen circuit racing, you probably understand the importance of choosing the right tires. Of course, factory teams use custom tires, but mere mortals can choose tires to suit their tastes. First, take a closer look at what tires the experts use on tracks like yours. The choice is always yours, because even manufacturers give only the most general recommendations.
Take your tire selection seriously. Tires from Bridgestone, Dunlop, Metzeler, Michelin and Pirelli are the best on the market. Pattern and compound are very important, but it is even more important that the tires are not worn out. As soon as the edges of the checkers are rounded, they lose adhesion to the ground
Remember that worn tires perform poorly in all conditions. The ground edges of the checkers impair grip. Professionals change their tires before every race, you should decide how often you will do this. You can extend the life of tires by rotating them 180 degrees on the rim, you just need to understand that this will worsen braking. The front tire usually lasts much longer than the rear. Different conditions require different tires. Always remember that rounded blocks reduce traction.
Most tires are rated at 12-15 psi (0.85-1 atm). The lower the pressure, the greater the grip and the greater the likelihood of a puncture.
In order not to be afraid of punctures, you can put a spacer between the rim and the tire, made of special foam. They are made by Michelin and Moose Racing and cost between $100 and $130. Dunlop make something similar, only their spacer has an air chamber inside.
Unfortunately, such a spacer is not easy to install; special tools are required. It wears out very quickly, especially when heated. Manufacturers are constantly working to extend the life of such spacers.
A motorcycle on wheels with spacers behaves differently than on regular wheels with tubes. This is why Dunlop spacers use an air chamber, it allows you to control shock sensitivity.
Suspension
Suspension tuning is the most important and difficult part of tuning. Spring stiffness, fork oil, internal valves, rebound and compression, preload and, most importantly, the type of motorcycle - all this directly affects handling. It is impossible to explain all the subtleties in a nutshell. Read the motorcycle's instruction manual and the Motocross and Off-Road Motorcycle Performance Handbook, there's a lot written about it. Although you can write a separate book just about adjusting the suspension of a motocross motorcycle.
If you decide to change the factory suspension to a tuning one, consult with advanced riders and athletes; they do this immediately after purchasing a new motorcycle. Find out what's on the market for your bike and your favorite trails. Hundreds of companies offer their products in the United States, and each has its own opinion about pendants.
Fork leg height
You can influence the handling by raising and lowering the fork in the yokes. The higher the chainstays, the better the bike steers, but the worse it behaves on straight lines. Lower the seatstays and there will be stability, but then the handling will deteriorate. The crossbar in the picture is equipped with clamps for the handlebars, allowing you to change its position relative to the rider
As a rule, riders raise the seatstays by 5-10 millimeters. For aggressive steering, they can be raised higher until they rest against the steering wheel. The price for handling will be deterioration of stability on high-speed straights and shaking of the steering wheel. Conversely, if you place the stays lower so that the edge is flush with the top of the crossbar, you will improve stability but reduce handling.
Protection
Powerful chain guides ensure no interruptions in the supply of torque to the rear wheel. In addition, with them the chain moves more evenly, which means less wear.
There are a great many devices that protect your motorcycle from damage when dropped. As a rule, they are used to a minimum in cross-country, and to the maximum in off-road. Works Connection is the most popular manufacturer in this segment. The high quality of its products has won the loyalty of many professionals.
Engine protection
There are a great variety of devices that protect your motorcycle from damage due to falls. This Works Connection pan is built for motocross. It attaches with a few bolts in 10 minutes and protects the bottom of the frame and the engine crankcase. Larger trays are used in offroading and protect the engine covers, frame down tubes and water pump.
This is a thick aluminum plate that is mounted under the engine. As a rule, it protects the crankcase and frame. There are larger versions that protect the water pump and even the exhaust pipe. Large pallets are usually used in off-road, but cross-country riders prefer the first type, it is lighter.
Exhaust protection
If you plan to ride off-piste, your pipes are required by law to be equipped with spark arrestors approved by the US Forestry Department. The model pictured is for track use only.
It is used in off-road applications and protects the front part of the exhaust pipe from dents.
Frame protection
Used in both motocross and off-road to protect the lower part of the frame where the swingarm is mounted. The right products also protect the rear brake cylinder from damage. Combined with engine protection, it can greatly extend the life of your motorcycle frame.
Front brake cylinder protection
This is a small plate made of aluminum, used both in cross-country and off-road. Compare its price and the price of the cylinder and you will understand what the secret of the popularity of this device lies.
Radiator protection
Radiator protection is used both in cross-country and off-road. In addition to protecting against flying stones and other debris, the protection makes the radiators stronger and they do not bend when dropped. A new radiator costs from $250, and protection $70. Do simple calculations yourself
It has long been used in off-road, but recently it has been gaining popularity in motocross. A double aluminum plate with holes protects the super expensive radiator from stones, branches and other troubles. For a pair of radiators you will have to pay $600, protection is ten times cheaper.
Bark buster
This metal hand guard is used for racing through the forest. It also makes the steering wheel stronger.
Hand protection
Plastic guards are attached to the handlebars to protect the rider's hands from flying stones, dirt and other debris. As a rule, they are used in off-road applications. An additional bonus is that when it rains and in cold weather, your hands get less cold. There are models with spoilers, they protect your hands more effectively.
Front brake disc protection
As a rule, it is plastic, but it can also be made of aluminum. Protects the disk from damage. Often found in stock configuration.
Rear brake disc protection
Because of its shape it is called a shark fin. Made of metal, usually aluminum, it protects the rear disc from damage.
What is the easiest way to tune the engine? Replace rear sprocket! Add an extra tooth and the bike will accelerate better, although the top speed will drop. Conversely, reduce the number of teeth and your top speed will increase, but throttle response will become sluggish.
Tips from the Experts Jeremy McGrath - I experiment a lot with gear ratios. It's amazing what an extra tooth in the rear sprocket does to a bike. Without the right sprockets, the bike will never reach its full potential, and you will have to learn to compensate for its shortcomings. On the track you will always feel like you are "driving between gears" and using the clutch too much.
Steve Lamson - Don't forget to take care of your brakes often. I pump them often to get rid of even a hint of flakiness.
Mike Lafferty - I like to keep the controls like new. For example, I often lubricate the clutch cable, and change it to a new one as soon as the lubricant stops working.
John Dowd - Replace the clutch lever and clamp as soon as play appears. You will always feel like you are riding a new bike.
Mike Healy - When I buy a new bike, the first thing I do is find the right handlebars. Ergonomics are very important, you need to find a model that feels most natural to you.
Ty Davis - For off-roading, I put reinforced hoses forward. They are stronger than usual.
Mike Healy - I'm replacing the stock running boards with beefier ones, I don't want a bent running board ruining my day. I especially like the wide models from Pro Circuit.
Ty Davis - On tight, slippery trails, I use a heavier flywheel, which changes the power characteristics of the engine and prevents it from spinning up too quickly. As a result, the rear wheel slips less often and traction improves.
Mike Kiedrowski - To increase braking dynamics, I put a larger disc up front.
Dick Burleson - It is very important to understand the bike's workings. Study, study and study! For example, knowledge will be useful to you when you need to quickly fix something during a race right on the side of the track. And in general, those who know the materiel have enormous advantages in our sport.
Ken Faught - Your bike rides great today. But don't think that it will always be like this. It needs to be adjusted day by day and from track to track. Every day I evaluate the behavior of the bike and think what else can be improved. Sometimes enormous progress can be achieved by changing the spring preload, or slightly raising the feathers in the fork. I'm a big believer that the more you experiment, the better tuned your bike is.
Jeremy McGrath - It's amazing how little importance motorcyclists place on suspension tuning. Factory settings are designed for the maximum range of operating conditions. But the suspensions are equipped with so many adjustments that you can adjust them to any track. Be sure to do this!
Motorcycle handlebars: its types and names
- Motorcycle handlebars: its types and names
- Motorcycle steering wheel
- Types of motorcycle handlebars
- Video: Types of motorcycle handlebars
- Tracker
- Straight
- Clip-ons
- Short
- Moto
- High
- Mustache
- Window
- Monkey
- Video: Motorcycles with Ape hanger handlebars
- Keystone
- Zed-Bar
- H-shaped
- Frisco
- Chumps
- Motorcycle with steering wheel
The handlebar is the most important part of a motorcycle, on which not only the comfort of sitting while riding depends, but also the ability to perform complex maneuvers. Today, the market offers a huge range of this part, which includes models from different manufacturers, differing in material, color, and functionality. However, the main characteristic that you should pay attention to is the type of steering wheel, or rather its design, and then you will find out what they are like.
Independent exercise No. 3
Learning to drive a motorcycle The name of the exercise is correct! Don’t drive yet, just lead him “by the horns”, behind the wheel. Having removed the motorcycle from the stand, we make sure that the gearbox lever is in the neutral position and, slightly tilting the motorcycle towards us, slightly push it forward, holding the motorcycle with both hands on the handlebars, and drive it around the yard or area. First, we practice moving in a circle counterclockwise - this is easier to do, since the motorcycle is slightly leaned on top of you. Then we make circles clockwise. When driving a motorcycle, we learn to stop at the intended object using the handbrake handle. Do this exercise until you feel that the motorcycle no longer wants to fall, and its behavior is completely under your control.
Motorcycle steering wheel
The motorcycle steering wheel is the base on which all the main controls are installed, such as clutch and brake levers, gas handle, turn switches, etc. The safety of both the biker himself and the other participants will ultimately depend on the correct choice of the type of steering wheel. road traffic.
All motorcycles have almost identical controls:
- on the left is the clutch lever;
- on the right is the gas handle (rotary throttle control) and the brake lever.
The motorcycle handlebars are mounted to the stand using a standard mount. By the way, when replacing the steering wheel, you can install the most suitable mount, which will help you adjust the desired height. For example, a tall person may need to raise the height when installing a stock steering wheel. To do this, use special devices that extend the standard racks.
Also on the steering wheel handles there are switches and buttons for the electrical equipment system. On the right side there is an emergency engine switch, an electric starter button, a light switch, and on the left there are switches for turn indicators and headlights, and a horn button.
Independent lesson No. 6
We start with a gesture and stop. Now we learn to start and stop. When starting off, you need to disengage the clutch and engage first gear. At the same time, you will feel the motorcycle jerk forward slightly. This indicates that the gears in the gearbox are engaged. But the clutch discs are still disconnected and therefore the torque from the engine is not transmitted to the drive. Slowly release the clutch lever and listen carefully to the engine (or watch the tachometer if your motorcycle is equipped with one). When you engage the clutch, the revs will begin to drop and the motorcycle will pull forward. Feeling this moment, disengage the clutch and move the gear lever to neutral. Do this exercise several times, achieve the ability to accurately determine the moment of engaging the clutch and starting. Having mastered and consolidated this exercise, we move on to the next stage. Having “caught” the moment of engaging the clutch, hold the lever in this position and slightly increase the gas. The motorcycle will begin to move forward slowly. Place your feet on the pegs and slowly release the clutch lever all the way. To stop, you need to disengage the clutch, reduce engine speed and slow down. Next, be sure to place the transmission lever in neutral and place your feet on the ground. When mastering starting from a standstill, several typical mistakes are possible. If you hold the clutch lever in a fixed position for a long time, the motorcycle will move forward slowly with the clutch slipping, and this will significantly reduce its life. In addition, at low speeds it is very difficult to maintain balance and the motorcycle will fall on its side, and you will constantly push off the ground with one foot or the other. It is possible that you release (engage) the clutch too quickly, but do not rev the engine enough. In this case, the motorcycle will jerk and the engine will stall. If you managed to get going, but you added too many revolutions to the engine, the motorcycle may stand on its rear wheel and take you to the first obstacle or throw you out of the saddle. A typical mistake for a novice motorcyclist may be the situation when, after stopping, you forgot to turn off the gear, but released the clutch lever. In this case, the motorcycle will jump forward sharply and it’s good if at that moment there is no one or anything in front of it. To avoid these mistakes, repeat starting from a standstill, even if you succeeded the first time, until all your actions are brought to full automaticity. Don't rush into second gear. Once your brain has memorized the sequence of hand-foot interactions as the Lord's Prayer, move on to mastering the shift into higher gears.
Types of motorcycle handlebars
The design features of the steering wheel depend on the class of the motorcycle. Typically, manufacturers install this important part in such a way as to make it as convenient as possible. This takes into account the posture of a person of average build. Many buyers are quite satisfied with the steering wheel on the purchased bike, which seems quite comfortable, but there are those who, due to anatomical features, find it completely uncomfortable to ride and begin to look for an alternative.
Today it is quite possible to choose a model that will not only satisfy the ergonomic component, but will also meet the required aesthetic qualities, because modern motorcycle tuning is increasingly gravitating towards non-standard options, when the bike becomes a striking object of movement.
Video: Types of motorcycle handlebars
Such a steering wheel has a rather simple, at first glance, shape, a small height and, nevertheless, is in considerable demand among the range of steering wheels without a jumper. The best model can be called Fatbar from the manufacturing company Renthal. The central part of the steering wheel has a diameter of 28.6 mm, but closer to the handles it tapers to 22.2 mm. Such “steering wheels” are installed on production models of KTM and Suzuki.
The shape of the steering wheel with a straight pipe is most suitable for sports motorcycles, although such steering is also installed on Jupiter-5 and some other, more or less modern motorcycles produced. The straight handlebar clearly distinguishes the technical device from other representatives of the motorcycle world, but the functionality decreases.
For ease of operation under normal conditions, it is necessary to reform the rest of the part by installing a semi-sitting landing mode, and this is quite difficult to do. The straight steering wheel is convenient to use when the driver is in a recumbent position, and this is typical for sportbikes.
Instead of a standard, fused into one design, handlebars on motorcycles often use clip-ons, which make it easier to repair or replace deformed parts (if a regular handlebar bends when dropped, replacing it is quite problematic). Clip-ons are a small, separate design that is easy to install and does not require much time.
On touring motorcycles, clip-ons are attached to the fork cups above the crossbar, which provides a comfortable sitting position. It is typical for sportbikes to be mounted under the crossbar - this method ensures ergonomics, since the pilot needs a more recumbent position.
It is worth noting that clip-ons add some aggression to the appearance of the vehicle, which is why city riders often install them on their maneuverable city motorcycles.
The type of steering wheel that does not stand out as anything special, but, nevertheless, is quite comfortable for both city driving and sports driving. It can be found on Cruiser motorcycles intended for long trips. Such vehicles are produced by various concerns, including Suzuki, Honda, etc.
One of the simplest and at the same time popular models. The handlebar is great for both mini motorcycles and sports bikes. Moreover, they are more typical of the latter, since they have a jumper for rigidity, which serves to ensure that the handlebar arms are less deformed when the motorcycle falls. Basically, such handlebars are installed by manufacturers of serial motocross motorcycles, such as the Honda CRF 450.
The design of a high steering wheel is similar to a low one. The main difference is its elevated position, which allows people with a height of 170 cm and above to feel comfortable while traveling, as well as to stand up during maneuvers. Often such handlebars can be found on choppers, as well as on cross-country and enduro pit bikes.
Whiskers are a type of motorcycle handlebars that will fit classic models, such as the Honda CB 400, designed for daily city trips. The steering wheel provides minimal load on the driver’s hands and back, and is comfortable for both beginners and experienced motorcyclists.
The name of the steering wheel fully corresponds to its external design: the high rise and crossbar at the level of the handles really form a kind of window. In addition, the cross bar greatly strengthens the structure, which has a greater chance of remaining without global damage during a fall.
The Ape hanger handlebar is perhaps the most popular for choppers. It got its name because of the external resemblance of a biker sitting on a motorcycle to a monkey, since the pilot’s arms are raised and extended forward. The height of the steering wheel reaches 25–30 centimeters or more. The comfort of driving with such a steering wheel depends, first of all, on the anatomical features of the driver, in particular, on his height and arm length.
When installing the mentioned steering on a motorcycle, attention should be paid to the choice of height and width. It is advisable that when driving the driver’s palms are at shoulder level or slightly higher (then the air flow will support the hands). The width must be chosen so that during maneuvers you can easily hold the steering wheel at the extreme points of turns. Such rudders were manufactured and installed on choppers in the 50s and 60s of the last century.
Video: Motorcycles with Ape hanger handlebars
The Keystone steering wheel, with its sharp, angular shape, cannot go unnoticed. Its design is designed to give the bike aggressive and, at the same time, stylish features. The fairly wide handle span of 70.5 cm makes control more convenient. The model is perfect for motorcycles Harley, Yamaha, Suzuki, Chopper, etc.
The Zed-Bar steering wheel attracts with its strict straight shapes, in which the Latin letter “Z” is clearly visible. At the same time, it is very comfortable, as the curve of the handles allows you to relieve stress from your wrists.
The steering wheel has a high, rather narrow rise and a crossbar in the middle, therefore, in general, it is similar to the letter “H”, from the upper points of which the guides of the massive handles extend. This steering wheel is designed for everyday travel and provides a comfortable horizontal seating position. In addition, the central lintel gives special strength to the structure.
The Frisco handlebar is somewhat similar to the Zed-Bar, but its design attracts with smooth transitions to the handles, making the appearance of the motorcycle less aggressive.
The Champs motorcycle handlebar is characterized by a wide base, which then flows into the handles with smooth curved lines. The fairly wide span of the handles allows the driver to easily perform various maneuvers on the road.
Road
First of all, all devices belong to two large groups. Let's start with something closer to us - with motorcycles for riding on good asphalt roads. The name does not mean that they are not suitable for moving over rough terrain, but these bikes perform best on high-quality specialized trails.
Standard, Classic or Roadster(Standard Motorcycle/Naked Bikes/Roadster)
The standard type of motorcycle is the most common due to its simple design and suitability for any purpose.
(Naked motorcycle Suzuki GS500E)
Ergonomics (driver's seating position) is quite neutral, there is no pronounced forward or backward tilt. The seat height is closer to the middle of the range, around 80 cm, and suits almost everyone. The device can be equipped with a luggage compartment/bag, different seat options, and a straight or slightly curved steering wheel. These things combine to make it a good first all-round touring bike. It usually does not come with a large protective fairing on the front.
There are also motorcycles in the Neoclassical category - these are modifications of old cars in a modern way while maintaining the original design.
(Ural in retro style)
The Ural with the photo above can also be classified as a Naked Bikes group. Devices of this category do not have special protection that would hide their motor and all other internals; they are simply naked (Naked). Another distinctive feature is the round headlight.
As for the power characteristics, the motorcycle of the classic group has engine displacement variations from 125 cubic meters (some sources set the initial bar at 50, since up to this point the equipment applies only to mopeds) to 1000 cubic meters. The drive is standard, V-shaped. If we talk about internal combustion engines, then both 2- and 4-stroke engines are often used. Weight varies from 75 to 250 kg.
You can buy Ural on Avito at completely different prices. The average cost of a motorcycle is about 100,000 rubles. But you can find an option for both 10 thousand and 900 thousand.
(Electric motorcycles: City Slicker and Zero SR)
With electric versions everything is more complicated, and this applies to all classes that will be presented in the article. The field is only developing, and it is difficult to single out any specific strength indicators. Now the power reserve of each individual model varies greatly and depends on the price: the more expensive the bike, the better and larger the battery. For example, here is our story about comparing two motorcycles: City Slicker for $2,000 and Zero for $16,000. We can only say that the maximum speed of such devices currently reaches 250 km/h.
Cruiser
The Cruiser (or as some call the Cruiser) is made in the style of American cars from the 1930s to the early 1960s, such as Indian and Harley-Davidson, the latter largely defining the category.
(Harley-Davidson Street)
Most motorcycles are equipped with a V-shaped engine with a large volume of up to 1000 cc, although there are other configurations. The motors are tuned for low torque, which makes them less demanding to drive because they don't need to be accelerated as often.
The rider positions himself on the bike with his feet forward and his arms raised high enough so that his back is straight or slightly leaned back. At low and medium speeds, the Cruiser will be more comfortable than other motorcycles. However, riding for long periods of time on the freeway can become tiring due to trying to resist the force of the wind, which hits the rider directly in the chest. The vehicles are limited when turning due to insufficient ground clearance.
(Honda Shadow VT 750)
A well-known representative of this group is the Honda Shadow 750 (pictured above). On Avito this Cruiser can be bought at an average price of 250 - 300 thousand rubles.
Chopper
Choppers are a type of Cruiser, so named because they are a "cropped" or truncated version of the "parent". Choppers are most often custom designs made to order or "bespoke", which results in the bike being modified according to the owner's desires and, as such, is a source of pride and achievement.
(Big Dog's Chopper)
These devices have a stereotypically forward fork, a small fuel tank and a high handlebar.
These motorcycles were popularized in the Peter Fonda film Easy Rider. Being designed primarily for visual effect, Choppers are not the most efficient machines to drive.
A popular model in the category is the Honda Fury1300. You can buy a Chopper on Avito for about 550,000 rubles.
(Chopper Honda Fury 1300)
Power Cruiser
Power Cruiser - This name is used to refer to bikes in the Cruiser class, which have a significantly higher power level. They often come with upgraded brakes, suspensions and ground clearance, as well as superior surface finishes and more exotic or unconventional styling.
(Ducati Diavel)
Bobber
A bobber, originally called a "bob-job" from the 1930s to the 1990s, is a style of customized motorcycle that is made to fit a specific individual. The bob-job itself originated from an earlier type of American "Cut Down" bike that appeared in the late 1920s, and was based on the Harley-Davidson "J" series with a V-twin engine.
(Harley-Davidson JDCB 1925)
A typical Bobber design is a stripped-down front fender and a shortened rear fender, with all unnecessary parts removed to reduce weight.
Unlike Choppers, these bikes are simpler to manufacture and design because the creators tried to make the models as cheap as possible. The Bobber's front wheel has the same diameter as the rear, while Choppers have a larger diameter. The second usually has a lot of chrome parts, and the first is more often found in the “Rat Bike” style.
(Rat Bike)
A chic representative of the class is the brainchild of Honda. On Avito you can buy a Honda Steed 400 Bobber for about 200,000 rubles.
(Honda Steed 400 Bobber
In the next season of the Russian TV series “Major 3,” Pavel Priluchny drives a BMW K1100 Cafe racer. Cafe racers are not exactly Bobbers. On a “cafe” bike, the handlebars are slightly lower and the number of engine cubes is smaller.
In general, the name Cafe racer appeared due to the fact that some drivers pretended to be professional racers and stopped on these motorcycles near coffee shops.
View this post on Instagram
Posted by Pavel Priluchny (@bugevuge) Sep 2, 2021 at 7:58 PDT
(Pavel Priluchny on BMW K1100 Cafe racer)
Touring
While any motorcycle can be equipped and used for touring, the Tourer is specifically designed for long-distance touring.
These cars have large engines, fairings and screens that provide good protection from wind and bad weather, and also have spacious fuel tanks and vertical seats. Passenger space is excellent, and extensive luggage space is par for the course for this class. Such bikes in “wet” weight (that is, taking into account liquids, battery and driver) start from 390-410 kg and reach 590-640 kg.
(tourist Honda Gold Wing GL1800)
Bagger, Full Dresser, Full Dress Tourer or Dresser are different names for Tourer motorcycles that are remakes of the original. Most often these are custom designs, but there are also serial models that can be classified into one group or another.
(BMW K 1600 B Bagger)
(Kawasaki VN 1700 Vaquero)
On Avito you can buy a Honda GL1800 (a couple of photos above) at completely different prices. It all depends on the year of manufacture. A more or less new budget version costs up to 1 million rubles. From the store, a touring motorcycle costs about 2.5 million.
Sports Tourer
This class combines the attributes of sports bikes and touring motorcycles. The driving position is less extreme than in the sport version, which provides greater comfort over long distances. The same goes for passenger accommodations. Of course, the luggage has been increased relative to the racing model. Being lighter than a regular Tourer, it weighs 250-330 kg. The motorcycle is often equipped with a more powerful engine, suspension and brakes, and also has improved cornering maneuverability, making it more aggressive on twisty roads.
(Honda ST1300 Pan-European)
The distinction between a Tourer and a sports Terur is not always clear, as some manufacturers list the same bike in both categories, but in different markets. For example, the Honda ST1300 Pan-European (pictured above) was marketed by the company as a sports car in the United States and Australia, but as a touring car in Europe. This is exactly the option when one motorcycle can fall into different groups, purely based on the manufacturer’s statement.
You can buy a sports tourist Honda ST1300 Pan-European (pictured above) on Avito for a price of 400,000 rubles.
Sports Bike
This luxurious range stands out for its top speeds, wild acceleration, confident braking, handling and grip on paved roads. As a rule, these characteristics are achieved at the expense of a reduced level of comfort and increased fuel consumption. Sportbikes have highly efficient engines supported by a lightweight frame. Four-cylinder and V-twin engines dominate the category, with the occasional appearance of other configurations.
(Suzuki GSX-R sport bike)
The brake systems of these devices combine more efficient pads and multi-piston calipers. The suspension is widened for improved stability and durability. Most sports motorcycles are equipped with a fairing, often completely enclosing the engine. There's also a windshield that successfully deflects air at very high speeds, or at least reduces overall drag.
(Yamaha R1)
On sport bikes, the rider's legs are positioned high, closer to the body, to improve ground clearance when cornering. The hand controls are moved away from the driver to position the body and center of gravity forward over the fuel tank when riding. At high speeds, the wind supports the rider, but at low speeds, significant stress is placed on the arms and wrists, causing fatigue.
You can buy a Yamaha R1 sports motorcycle on Avito for an average price of 400,000 rubles.
Streetfighter/Streetfighter
The category is derived from sports bikes, with the difference that motorcycles do not have fairings and the handlebars are higher. Since the 1990s, production versions of the machines began to be produced. As with the Cruiser or Tourer, the name streetfighter is used to indicate a mixture of elements from both sports vehicles and classic ones.
(Ducati Streetfighter)
On Avito, the Ducati Streetfighter costs an average of 600,000 rubles. Prices for younger options will be approximately 900 thousand.
Dual Sport(also known as dual purpose)
The Dual Sport bike is officially a street bike, but it's also capable of going off-road. Typically, lights, mirrors, signals and instruments are added to a motorcycle based on an off-road chassis to obtain a license to ride on public roads. They are larger than other street bikes, with a high center of gravity and seat position that allows them to navigate rough roads well.
(BMW R1200GS dual-sport)
You can buy a BMW R1200GS on Avito at a budget price. A motorcycle before 2015 will cost you about 600,000 rubles, while newer options cost closer to a million.
Supermoto/Supermotard
These motorcycles were designed to compete in three different genres: road racing, track racing and motocross. Such a popular type of bike often falls into the Dual-Sport category, but manufacturers install smaller wheels on them in combination with road tires. The Supermoto is quickly gaining popularity as a street vehicle due to its combination of light weight, durability, relatively low cost and sporty handling.
(Suzuki DRZ400SM supermoto)
Minibike
A minibike, sometimes called a minimoto or pocketbike, is a miniature motorcycle. Most of them use two-stroke engines and a chain drive.
This type also includes a monkey bike, Welbik, mini Chopper, pitbike, and ATVs.
A minibike can be bought mainly from someone else. On Avito, the cost of a Honda Monkey motorcycle starts at 50,000 rubles. But there are also more expensive ones, the price reaches up to 300,000 rubles.
(Honda Monkey)
At the time of writing, the average price of a minibike on Avito is 30,000 rubles. The most expensive motorcycle costs 100,000 rubles.
In general, this is a very funny type of motorcycle. Here is an example of an interesting review by a Russian blogger on a bike from this class:
Scooter or Scooter
Some will argue that the scooter is not a real motorcycle, but it will no doubt carry you around safely just like its larger siblings. This bike is best suited for city riding that does not involve high speeds. Scooters are lightweight and closer to the ground, which allows them to easily navigate the streets of a populated area without much effort. The scooters are offered with a small fairing and small storage for a few items, making them a good option for short-distance travel.
(Honda Dio scooter)
The engine capacity of models with internal combustion engines starts from 50 cubic meters and reaches 250, but as always there are exceptions that reach as much as 800 cubic meters. Fuel consumption on such a vehicle is low, about 4 liters per 100 km, which is why many people like this type of transport.
The cost of the popular Dio scooter from Honda (photo above) on Avito averages 100,000 rubles, but as always, you can find a budget option for 25-30 thousand.
(electric scooter MIKU MAX)
When it comes to the range of electric scooters, things aren't looking so good yet. The range averages from 50 to 100 km, which is however sufficient for city driving. Also good news is that some firms, such as Honda and Panasonic, are now experimenting with fast charging and battery swapping services.
The Chinese electric Miki Max (pictured above) can be bought for 89 thousand. We have already made an article about it, in which you can find a link to an official dealer in Russia.
We think that in this category it is also worth mentioning tricycles or simply three-wheeled scooters, because this is where they have found the greatest popularity. In developing countries, this type of transport is very widespread and is used everywhere, and is called a rickshaw or tuk-tuk. Such transport is very convenient for transporting goods or people.
Most tricycles use gasoline engines, but there are more and more companies that produce electric versions. For example, a very interesting model is RAPIDE 3 from Gaius. The battery installed on it allows you to travel 105 km at a time. It may not be much, but due to the lithium titanate battery, you can restore 80% of the capacity in just 15 minutes. You can read more about this scooter in our article.
(electric scooter Gaius RAPIDE 3)
Moped
A moped is a hybrid of a bicycle and a motorcycle. It is equipped with a small motor (usually a two-stroke engine up to 50 cc, but sometimes an electric motor) and a bicycle transmission. The driving force of a car can be the engine, the pilot, or both. There are also sport mopeds, a type that resembles a sports bike.
The most popular model in Russia is Alpha. The cost of a moped on Avito varies greatly. The average price for Alpha will be about 30,000 rubles. As always, you can buy a moped at the best price for you.
(moped Alpha)
Motorcycle with steering wheel
A motorcycle with a car steering wheel deserves special attention. This phenomenon will cause considerable surprise to many, since it is unlikely that anyone could see such a miracle of technical progress on the roads (with the exception of home-made technical means). Still, there are similar developments where the steering wheel of a car acts as a steering wheel.
For example, an interesting model was presented by the American company Lit Motors - an electric motorcycle of a closed type. For now, this is only an experimental sample that is being finalized, but a certain interest in it has already flared up. In general, the motorcycle is more similar to a small car; it has a completely closed body, side windows and a windshield that extend into the roof. And of course, one of the main features is a car steering wheel.
The vehicle maintains its balance thanks to the presence of powerful gyroscopes. The electric motorcycle can accelerate to 190 km/h, while charging lasts for 350 km.
Looking at all of the above, we can safely say that bikers today have great opportunities to endow their “iron horse” with a special aesthetics by replacing the steering wheel. However, in pursuit of beauty, do not forget about the ease of fit and control, as these factors play a significant role in traffic safety.
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Reading → Motorcycle controls
The topic is very broad and interesting. Of course, you can turn all this into a book, but I will try to present the material briefly, clearly and understandably.
In this article I will start smoothly. You will be immersed in the world from a brief design of control levers to their features and subtleties of use. This material is aimed entirely at new people in the motorcycle culture and its main goal is to make people understand that a good Japanese motorcycle is the limit of perfection. Visually we divide the motorcycle crosswise into two parts - front and rear.
To the front we will include the controls:
1. Front fork 2. Steering wheel or clip-ons 3. Steering damper (it is not visible in the diagram, since it can be either inside or outside, I will describe it separately later in the article) 4. Brake mechanism 5. Clutch 6. Gas
Clip-ons are handles that a rider holds with both hands and shouts YYYHAAAA. :).
Why are clip-ons called clip-ons?
