Transmission oil
While reading various manuals for the Urals, I noticed that in the gearbox it is recommended to fill in engine oil with a viscosity of about 15w40. The question arose, why not transmission oil?
for Bazz
: This is a factory joke, the sooner you kill the gearbox, the sooner you’ll buy a new one. In my opinion, this is nonsense, they pour transmission gear everywhere, but in the Urals they pour motor gear.
I don’t know, but I tried all types of oils, even nigrol. And I came up with one rule: my gearbox works best with TAD17 or TAP oil
. Korbka and Bridge - they only drink TAD -17. That's it, dropped the topic.
for skyfox2002
:So that’s what we’re talking about in life: the gearbox uses the transmission and, according to the FACTORY INSTRUCTIONS, the engine.
for Bazz
: I honestly borrow a Mobil 1 80w90 transmission at work, it’s a fairy tale. and in the Mobil 1 5w30 mineral water engine, after 5000 km I remove the pan perfectly, even there is no residue, and after the M8V recommended by the factory, it was possible to stick a spoon into the muck formed in the pan
If you carefully study the factory's recommendations, you will see that you can pour transmission oil into the box, but... Because its film formed on the metal is stronger and all that, the synchronizers in the box wear out much faster, especially for those who like to drive fast with frequent shifts. Therefore, the instructions recommend pouring motor oil. But there is an ambush here too. An old box will not withstand good quality liquid motor oil and will pee all over the road. Therefore, M8 is usually poured into older boxes because it's thick. Besides, what's the point of pouring good oil? The gearbox unit is almost eternal and usually survives more than one engine capital.
it is liquid and cannot be compared with the transmission TAD-17 and other transmissions. And secondly, WHERE Where did you see SYNCHRONIZERS in the box of domestic oppositions. What are you? I didn't even bother to read the factory manual. and you took it apart. in some other topic you are talking about the same thing - synchronizers in a box. Well, they're not there. I want to believe that this is a typo
Unlike some, I don’t have the opportunity to borrow Mobil type oil, and therefore I use Luxoil 80w90 or 85w90. Although if the cardan fork seal is bad, then even with thick oil the box will rub against it
Nevermind, wow, the factory recommends putting TAP 15 or TAD 17 into the box. And there are definitely no synchros in the box.
I read the information on the IMZ website and this is what the Tech Department says about this: “The use of engine oils of the 10W/15W API viscosity class in the gearbox is due to the design features of the secondary shaft gear lubrication system.” Now I’m thinking about either “finishing off” the gearbox with a motor, or hammering it in and using transmissions.
That is, the bushings are there. but on old boxes they are worn out, and oil will get in there anyway, even if it is thick, there will be enough clearance. and in new bushings, spiral grooves must be made, apparently, for oil.
Yes, there is an oil catcher right there that collects oil splashes and directs them to the secondary shaft channel. PS//damn, they will soon put an oil pump there.
Fuck knows, I asked questions about this at the factory conference. Factory answer: 15w40 in the engine and the same engine in the gearbox. Only in the transmission gearbox, why they didn’t really explain. https://www.uralmoto.ru/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=116 https://www.uralmoto.ru/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=116&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=15 like this. But I definitely won’t drive 10,000 km on oil, and I won’t change it to a motorboat.
I asked them a question in the IMZ conference: What is the reason for the use of MOTOR oil in the gearbox?!
And here is their answer: Technical Department The use of engine oils of the 10W/15W API viscosity class in gearboxes is due to the design features of the secondary shaft gear lubrication system.
PS Although I still prefer the transmission. In my version it is liquid moth.
strange people. The factory recommends it, but they again do their own thing. and then they say the Urals are crap and fall apart as they go. There's one in the motorcycle who wrote that his cylinders are falling off. I wonder how it is? Doesn't he screw them on?
for SHTRLZ
: And why? A. The transmission has qualities similar to those of automobiles. The extreme pressure and other qualities of transmission oil are much higher. I think it’s a bummer for the plant to conduct recertification/new tests. By the way, I don’t consider the Urals to be shit, and it’s not falling apart, but I want the cattle to live longer.
The same applies to the use of synthetic/semi-synthetic oils.
for SHTRLZ
: What are you pouring yourself? For some reason it seems to me that it’s not a motorboat. I had never even heard of a motorboat in a box until this top. Lil se transmission, but rejoiced.
Read the factory booklet (Technical description and operating instructions). It's written there. Although I agree that the transmission is better in the box.
1. There are a lot of people around who know the Russian alphabet. Read less and you will sleep more peacefully. 2. for Bazz: pour a spindle, a motorboat, or a SPRITE if you don’t mind your device, and if you don’t mind, then read point 1
The plant recommends oils that have been produced since the opening of the plant itself. In my opinion, the quality of M6 oils
The M8 will not stand up to modern demands. And therefore, the standard recommendations of the plant are caused by the reluctance to study the market for high-quality oils and test them in their units; rather, this is caused by the critical condition of the plant. I personally checked by pouring M8 into the engine of my father’s UAZ; the pressure, even at an outside temperature of -35 on a well-warmed engine, did not rise above 2; the flickering of the emergency oil pressure indicator at idle was also killing it. After filling in semi-synthetic oil from LUKOIL, the pressure rises to 3.5, and I forgot about the emergency oil pressure indicator; another thing is the scoop gaskets, which cannot withstand the cleaning properties of oils and constantly snot, but this is a side effect that does not play a role. I can say the same about the Ural gearbox and M8 oil, and what will happen to its viscosity when the transmission warms up well. Followed by; Now in most manuals these oils are listed as recommended out of despair with the note “it is possible to fill with other oils of proper quality.” And you choose the quality yourself.
Transmission oil!
People, please tell me what kind of oil to fill in the Ural gearbox? Some people say put 15w40 or 20w50 in a TNK engine. Tell me what you think, who knows what. Or do you need to put TAD in there?
The instructions recommend pouring motor oil. I haven’t decided for myself yet to trust the instructions or the advice of experienced people (the engine is still flooded).
