My own Harley-Davidson. How a Bobruisk resident assembled a chopper from Izh

The IZH Planet 5 motorcycle, despite its age, is still in service and is often found on the roads of the country. Its first owners purchased this model for its beautiful appearance, good engine and versatility. The model turned out to be so successful that its owners could go to work every day all week, and on the weekends they could attach a stroller and take their family out of town or take building materials to their home. Nowadays, the role of this model has changed little; it is still a workhorse and a pleasant motorcycle, suitable for relatively short trips. Alas, Planet 5 also has its drawbacks: low speed, outdated engine and appearance. That is why the owners are tuning the IZH Planet 5 motorcycle. Below, you will find out how you can update the bike with your own hands, refresh or transform the appearance and make it a little faster.

Styling

The choice of where to start tuning is entirely yours; we recommend that you first pay attention to the appearance of the motorcycle. Now there is a long list of various styles and directions for which these motorcycles have already been converted. This is a cafe racer, retro style, rat bike, cross enduro, chopper, sport. Planet 5 is being remade into these and many other styles; the entire Internet is filled with ideas, and we decided to share the most popular ones with you.

In another of our instructions, you can learn how to tune IZ Jupiter 5 with your own hands.

Retro style

Nowadays the fashion for old and vintage cars and motorcycles is actively developing. Models from 30 to 50 years ago are kept in barns and distant villages to be restored to their original form. The idea of ​​this style is a complete or partial restoration of the motorcycle to its factory appearance. The closer and better the work is done, the better the tuning of IZH Planet 5 with your own hands looks photo:

Do not think that it is so simple, because even for such a relatively new model, it is becoming increasingly difficult to find original spare parts. Particularly expensive are fragile dashboards, original trunks and dented gas tanks. You'll have to hunt for these details. It will be very expensive to restore Soviet chrome and paint all chips and scratches. This style is suitable for true connoisseurs of the brand and those who prefer to spend hours and days in the garage.

Cafe Racer

The style largely repeats the previous one, because it consists of giving the motorcycle an appearance similar to the British models of the 60-70s. A distinctive feature of such motorcycles is the special shape of the seat and tail. For our modification model, we will have to work on the rear part and replace the tank with a more streamlined one. You will also have to change a number of details in general, these are:

  • round mirrors;
  • one round device instead of a panel;
  • monochrome, dim color of the main elements;
  • no stickers;
  • an abundance of chrome parts (switch feet, turn signals, possibly fenders).

Motorcycle appearance

This motorcycle turned out to be very interesting in appearance , but the technical part of the motorcycle has not changed much.

And yet, IZH Junker is probably one of the most remarkable models of the domestic motorcycle industry.

The designers tried to give their creation an American style , and they did it well.

If it were not for the “IZH” marking on the side covers, it would be difficult to recognize a domestically produced motorcycle in the Junker.

An advanced fork, a small headlight, a high bent handlebar, a low driver's seat and a teardrop-shaped tank give this bike a good resemblance to foreign choppers .

The designers and engineers really did a good job on the appearance. They had to slightly change the geometry of the frame to ensure a low landing, but the frame design itself is the same - tubular, with welded seams.

The tank on the IZH Junker actually consists of two small halves, between which they installed an instrument panel consisting of a speedometer and a window for warning lights.

But the design of the speedometer and windows was not changed, although something original could have been invented. These same tanks also cover the electrical wiring, which is traditionally attached to the frame.

The motorcycle received a stepped seat, consisting of two parts ; the rear seat also has a backrest, which is already included in the base with the motorcycle. The rear light was placed on this backrest.

In the modern world, children's ATVs running on gasoline are very popular; descriptions and characteristics of some models can be found here.

A sports model of an ATV for the entertainment and development of the younger generation: https://themoto.net/atv/kvadrotsiklyi-dlya-detey/ryis-125-sport.html

Chopper

One of the popular options for tuning an IZH Planet 5 with your own hands is to turn it into a rocker motorcycle. The constant attributes of this style are:

  • long front fork;
  • small rear wheel with wide tires;
  • wide seat;
  • “sofa” seating;
  • high steering wheel;
  • plenty of dark color and chrome.

This option is not suitable for most, mainly due to its complexity. Here, first of all, manipulations with the frame are implied, which means it is necessary to have a high-precision slipway and a number of other equipment to maintain the geometry of the frame and the alignment of the wheels.

Happy holidays everyone! With your permission, I present another post about the work of our workshop, because it lives not only by restorations. Here I will tell you how we built a bobber, so that: “Cool, inexpensive and from what we have.” Carefully! Lots of letters and photos!

About the work done -

One day in the spring of 2012, a man contacted me by email to find out how much it would cost to paint a gas tank... The price suited him, and off we went. A week later I already have a disassembled Izh-Jupiter of the 5th model, not in the best condition, a couple of blanks, two boxes of various spare parts, a frame from a Pannonia motorcycle digested a thousand times by “Ashots from the service station” (this is not welcome) and another carload of ideas. I didn’t want to take a lot of money, and they didn’t give me any, and besides, I don’t have much experience in making frames... Therefore, the only advantage of this work was that it was slow. Deadline: “I would like to ride this season” suited me (approx. 5 months) Task: Build a motorcycle in the form of a bobber, based on a Pannonia frame, Izh U5 engine and using a large amount of handmade items. All this had to be done without a slipway, since I didn’t have one yet... I warned the customer about the imperfect geometry of such a frame, but he didn’t mind. Show-off is more valuable than money.

Here is a general list of the hardware from which they danced. (For those in the know)

— Engine IZH Yu5 — Rear wheel from JAVA, 18 inches — Driven sprockets from Pannonia and JAVA — Gas tank from Minsk M1, as well as from IZH 56 — Fork IZH-PS — Front brake with wheel from IZH, 18 inches — Headlight from Bulgarian loader) - Electrical equipment from Yu5 - Side step from IZH-49 - Pannonia mud flap - Pannonia frame (I wouldn’t cut the old frame, but it had already been thoroughly damaged before me, so there was little value in it)

I'll tell you the list:

Engine. An autopsy showed that the engine was going “for sale”... As they say: “It hasn’t been run-in yet.” And I wouldn’t have passed! The cylinders are very deeply raised, into which various new pistons are inserted; apparently the engine on them was not even started. Placed backwards, by amateurs. The flywheel is tightened as if with pliers (This is with a required force of 180 Newton per meter! Exactly this, I was not mistaken) The crankshaft covers and main bearings are loose in the seats (indirectly the fault of those who like to hammer crankshafts by “slightly pushing down with a mallet with a sledgehammer”) and others little things)) (And so almost every engine, if it has already been opened after the factory!)

After such repairs, there can be no question of the reliability of our motorcycles, so many end up “after capital”. Although sometimes she drives around in this state.

I apologize for the lyrical digressions, because it got boiling. In general, the shafts were straightened, a special shaft-sleeve clamp was used to restore the normal fit of the loose components, the cylinders were replaced, everything was assembled humanly.

Next are the wheels. We tightened the dead spokes and changed the wheel bearings. We adjusted the brakes to the drums. Due to cramped working conditions (gaps throughout the motorcycle), I subsequently had to cut off all the teeth of the Java star on a machine, and press and weld the crown of the Pannonia star (the difference is two teeth), since the chain reached the oil tank under the seat. The fact is that a bobber must be a very compact motorcycle, with as short a wheelbase as possible, hence the requirement for small clearances everywhere. For example, the chain from the fender, battery tank and oil tank runs 8-12 mm. When driving, the chain swings (a crappy, illegally made chain with different pitches contributes to this) and sometimes hits the above-mentioned parts. A simple proprietary chain + fluoroplastic plates in the impact area are corrected. But I didn’t have to do this because of the financial side of the issue. They asked for a centimeter - I made it! (although without a slipway, keeping all these gaps in the air and head is still a lot of work)

Other gaps: The front wheel, with the fork compressed, does not reach the frame by 10 mm, the motor cannot be removed with the heads on, the seat, with the springs fully compressed 2 mm, does not touch the rear fender. In some places inside the wing, with the wheels inflated to 2.5 atm, the tire-wheel gap is 5mm. The kick passes 10 mm from the footrest. And so everywhere! This is a very big difficulty.

Gas tank. The rare tank was purchased by the customer for its small volume of 9 liters, typical for pipe-bobbers. I needed to make a neat little plug. Welded it. The plug itself is made of stainless steel, with a tricky “anti-vacuum” hole.

And also two fittings to install a hose and you can control the fuel level on the go. A handy thing, especially for such a small tank. Immediately made other fastenings

Fork. The autopsy showed the way to non-ferrous metal. A serious condition, almost irreparable. Huge wear and missing many parts. But the customer, for the above reasons (show-off is more valuable than money), said that if it doesn’t fall apart along the way, we’ll leave it. The owner is a gentleman. The holes in the Izhevsk traverses were bored to 35mm. They installed corrugations so as not to spray oil on those around them.

In the headlight I adapted a regular lamp for low and high beam. The light is normal.

The rear turn signals (front ones are not provided) are chic, obviously homemade, very heavy, high-quality chrome plated, it will be extremely difficult to break. The heaviest turn signals I've ever seen. The wires for them are inside the frame.

The stop signal is temporary, the customer promised to put something very cool there himself.

The mud flap (wing) was mercilessly cut before me, but I cut it to a minimum. The fender struts are made from granny's bag cart, which consists of valuable, chrome-plated and thin tubes and rods. The gap with the wheel, as well as the deliberately invisible front fender, completely destroy all attempts to drive it anywhere, even on an “almost dry road.”

Unit “Anli fo veri, veri fain vise”

Next we will describe the handicrafts...

A wonderful oil tank, machined from a pipe, is divided in half by a partition. In theory, one half should carry oil to mix with fuel, so as not to carry an unfashionable canister in your backpack. You can also make automatic chain lubrication)) The tank lid is made of brass. In the other half, there is a charging relay, a lock, wires, and toggle switches. Such an improvised panel. Personally, I like it.

We didn’t find the third red glass (We decided to make them all red). Therefore, there are only 2 finished photos so far.

The battery tank contains the battery itself and the fuse. The side support bracket is also welded to it.

The footrests are made of stainless steel, knurled.

The seat, neatly curved from an ordinary 3mm sheet, springs on springs bought from eBay. Lepota. Made in pindostan. The customer promised to cover it himself, so I had the chance to ride without covering.

Silencers. 4 pipe bends, 1.5 meters of pipe, flanges of original elbows and some electrodes. In fact, they are direct flow, but the trick is that a plug is welded at the very end. The back feels like there are no holes at all. And they are there, but from below, in a row. (Patented) As a result, it’s crooked, but we shoot a lot of birds with one stone at once. Short length, like on the right Triumph bobbers. There is no such thing, but there is gas resonance, but since the volume is small, the pickup comes out a little higher than idle, which resembles 4t. On medium and high, big appetite. The volume balances on the verge of proper customization and throwing objects at the driver in the late evenings. Anyone who thinks that the sound at 2t of this volume would be better if it didn’t sound at all can listen to the video (Meat at the end). To be honest, I myself did not expect such a rich sound from such a motor. (Better live)

Steering wheel: I bent an ordinary stainless pipe with a pipe bender into such a simple shape. Cheap and cheerful.

Frame for number. Why write about her, the frame is like a frame))

Milled plates for the rear axle Well, and all sorts of little things, turned from stainless steel and brass.

Applying paintwork

My wife has been doing airbrushing for a while now, but she’s making progress. The inscriptions Jack Daniels (drawn through a stencil, under varnish) and the painting style were chosen by the owner. In general, not bad, but if I did it for myself, I would do it differently.

Frame…

The frame is a different story. The more I worked with her, the more I realized that she was clumsy, spoiled and did not suit us. Pipe after pipe was cut from it. As a result, there was only one left, a transverse one, in which there were threads for the running boards. The steering column was welded from the mud. In general, everything turned out quite smoothly, but a lot of nerves went away. New pipes were welded into powerful ones with a thick wall, which had a very positive effect on rigidity, as if the motorcycle was generally monolithic. However, this frame, with an oil tank, weighs significantly more than the Ural one without a pendulum.

The impression of others when they saw such a thing: “how compact!” ))) funny, but true. For greater contrast, he was saddled by a not skinny dude.

Very short. Low, quite comfortable fit. It drives smoothly, even without using your hands. The only thing that spoiled the impression was the inconvenient gear shift foot, but I foresaw this moment and made guide bushings to transfer the mechanism. But because of the customer, who wanted to start riding as soon as possible, seeing only half the result, this mechanism was never made for him. Well, there is also the financial side of the issue. In general, there were difficulties with the customer.

He promised to put cool tires on it, with white piping, upholster the seat, make cool handles, engravings, and finish all sorts of unfinished things. (For example, an oil tank valve) But after a large amount of time it did nothing. It's his business... Maybe he didn't expect SUCH a motorcycle.

The bike definitely has character. Engine that requires attention, difficult gearbox, sharp handling. But the main thing is that the gear ratio of the chain is such that if on good, smooth and dry asphalt, on a straight line, being in third gear, you sharply open the gas at low speeds, this is followed by an inevitable and, you should notice, spectacular slipping of the narrow rear wheel. The maximum speed is no more than 80 km/h, according to GPS, but on a vehicle without rear suspension, with such a narrow wheel, you don’t need more on our roads. Long-distance travel is not an option, but around the city it’s very dynamic, so that’s it. It's my opinion. The customer was apparently frightened by such agility and offered to change the engine to a calmer one: a Planetovsky one. But this is impossible with this frame, since in order to put this engine in the frame, you have to remove the cylinder heads, and the Planetovsky one is much higher. If he gets more motorcycle experience, he might be able to ride. I did well, and in general I had a blast when I was skating. I flew out of some turns with the rear slipping, like a real drifter. A very bright spendthrift, overflowing with emotions. I took it to the customer in a neighboring city, under my own power, without having any documents. This is proof that the unit is fully operational. I made my way through traffic jams, it was great, better than a 50cc scooter) This is a personal opinion, but it handles no worse. I could have worked on it a little more, seat, tires, gear shifting and it would have been just a super bobber. And of course it’s damp. It’s a pity to part with such a device, but it’s work...

Here is a review of my own creation.
Thank you for your patience with my graphomania) Smooth roads everyone!

Do-it-yourself engine tuning for IZH Planet 5

Having figured out what the tuning of the IZH Planet 5 motorcycle will look like, the rider may find the power insufficient. So it is, because the factory ones are 20 - 25 hp. The original engine is enough for tight streets, but on the highway the engine stops the speedometer at 120, beyond which it is quite difficult to get out. That is why, the next step is to tune your engine. The first step is to conduct a complete audit of the main elements that affect power: ignition, air filter, carburetor, exhaust. 50% of success lies in the correct setup and maintenance of these “capricious” motor components. If everything is in order, but there is still not enough power, then there are two further options:

  • The first is modification of existing units;
  • The second is a comprehensive tuning of the IZH Planet 5 engine with replacement of parts.

The first option is suitable for those who are trying to maintain the factory condition of their bike. Then, to drive a little faster, you can clean the exhaust, which inevitably becomes clogged with oil residue. The next step may be to install higher flow jets on the carburetor. At the same time, we inspect the filter element; it should fully cope with its task; monitor the oil level. The last item will be replacing the spark plugs and fine-tuning the ignition. With the right approach, you can get the most out of your engine. The maximum speed will not increase, but the engine response will definitely improve. Some models have a “traction” drive sprocket with a large number of teeth; if you replace it with a “high-speed” one, you can add at least 10 km/h to the maximum speed. Riders who are primarily concerned about the sense of speed should prepare to study a lot of specialized literature, because in order to noticeably improve the engine's power, its main components will have to be replaced. It’s worth starting with an audit of the cylinder-piston group. It is best to immediately replace the crankshaft with bearings, connecting rod and piston with rings with analogues from Japanese models. New spare parts will be stronger and lighter than the old IL Planet 5 tuning will significantly improve the engine, allow it to spin up more easily and preserve its service life. Next we replace the intake system, this is a new, more efficient carburetor. Behind it is installed a low-resistance filter and another important intake element - a reed valve. The exhaust should also be replaced. Only part of the knee will remain from the old spare parts, and a special resonator will be welded behind it (diagrams with dimensions can be found on the Internet).

Due to the characteristics of 2T engines, the exhaust cannot be direct-flow; it must provide a reverse impulse, which will prevent the air-fuel mixture from splashing out of the combustion chamber. After the resonator, a muffler is installed, which in general may be absent if you prefer a loud roar of the engine. Last but not least is the ignition system. It is better to immediately replace it with an electronic one, because the contact one almost always gets lost and has to be adjusted very often. The electronic system eliminates the need for regular inspection of the mechanism and allows you to maintain the power and torque curve at any speed.

Specifications

The power plant is a two-cylinder, in-line, water-cooled, but its technical characteristics do not differ from conventional IZH models.
But this can also have a positive effect; repairs to the Junker will not be expensive .

In front of the cylinders, a cooling radiator is mounted on the frame, which is protected from damage by safety bars on the sides.

Engineers have not yet come up with a starter for a power plant of this design, so the power plant is started by a foot kick starter located on the left side. The exhaust system is double, one pipe for each cylinder, with outlets on both sides of the motorcycle.

Engine lubrication is still the same, together with fuel.

The gearbox and drive are standard Izhevsk ones. Gearbox is a 4-speed manual equipped with a semi-automatic clutch. The drive is chain, located on the right side.

For ease of entry, the driver's footrests were moved forward , and to make it possible to conveniently control the gearbox and rear brakes, their pedals were lengthened.

The front of the Junker is already equipped with a hydraulically driven disc brake, but the rear has the same mechanically driven drum brakes.

The front suspension of the Junker consists of a hydropneumatic telescopic fork, which has a good ride . But the rear suspension is the old “Izhevsk” pendulum with two shock absorbers, but they are already positioned at an angle.

Well, IZH Junker looks fresh and unusual, like a domestic motorcycle.

And although it does not shine with technical indicators, the power plant together with the gearbox has long been time-tested and are reliable , and if it breaks down, repairing it will not be a problem due to the simplicity of the design and the general availability of spare parts, since IZH Junker has unified many design elements with motorcycles of the IZH family.

The technical characteristics of this motorcycle are summarized in the table:

Technical characteristics Characteristics of IZH Junker
ParameterUnit change Index
Lengthmm2400
Widthmm900
Heightmm1520
Wheelbasemm1600
Ground clearancemm175
Power pointtype2-cylinder, in-line,
Working volumecube cm. 347,6
Powerhp24,5
S-ma coolingtypeliquid
Start datetypekick starter
Transmissiontypemech, 4-speed,
Drive unittypeChain
Speed ​​max.km/h115
Average consumptionl/100 km5,7
Volume of the tankl2x7.5

Improved ride quality

The icing on the cake, and in our case the final touch of tuning, is the improvement in driving performance. Some of the tuners approached this issue earlier when they sawed the frame of their motorcycle or raised the tail of a future crossover. For the rest, first of all, you should get rid of your original tires. Among its advantages, only wear resistance can be noted, for which you pay with your safety. It is both universal and useless. The lugs are practically useless; if they get into a mess, under normal conditions on the highway it is noisy, but relatively holds the road, turning into a killer on a wet highway.

Therefore, without hesitation, we throw it away and purchase road, cross or all-purpose tires, based on your requirements. The second point is the suspension. If everything is generally clear with the rear shock absorbers, they are extremely reliable and, in addition, have stiffness settings, then the front fork does not leak only for those who have chosen a different brand. There are two ways to get out of this situation. The first is to add thicker oil. The second is to carry out a complete overhaul of the feathers and replace all parts. Both options do not last long, so the most demanding owners simply change the fork to an imported one, while the rest endure all the shortcomings of their iron horse.

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