It would seem that this is happiness: buy a new piston at the nearest dealership, quickly disassemble the engine, peel off the old scabs from the parts, put everything back together and enjoy unsurpassed drive. But no guys, it’s not that simple. If everything were so simple and easy, the masters would have already become rich long ago and would look at you with contempt, and not with lust as they do now.
The first sign that something is wrong with the engine is poor starting and poor traction. All your attempts to adjust the carburetor or ignition for the hundred-fifty-thousandth time will lead to nothing. Because poor starting and weak traction are 100% a symptom of weak compression in the crank chamber and in the combustion chamber. Today's case confirms this.
Why does the Ant scooter not start, reasons?
The scooter won’t start, a new carburetor was bought, the spark is good from the magneto, it seems to be trying to start, but it doesn’t work, what could be the problem?
Judging by the question asked, only the carburetor was replaced. Therefore, we do not touch sparking and early-later issues.
“If it grabs, but doesn’t chew and won’t work, the reason could be low compression or a misadjustment of the carburetor. Or "oversucked".
Compression, in the absence of a compression gauge, can be checked “by touch”. Plug the spark plug hole with your finger and turn the crankshaft. If the pressure “knocks out” from under your finger, we will consider it normal.
Carburetor. Screw the quality screw all the way and unscrew it 1.5-2 turns, this is a preliminary adjustment, it is adjusted while the engine is running (after it has been running.)
The “Ant” scooter runs on a fuel mixture and has a two-stroke engine.
The proportions of gasoline and oil when preparing the mixture were not maintained.
Recommended proportions are 400-500 grams of oil per 10 liters of gasoline.
That is, a poor-quality fuel mixture is the reason that the scooter does not start.
Or an old fuel mixture, if it has been poured into the tank for a long time, then it is better to drain it and fill it with fresh one.
Problems with the spark plug, the gap is not set (it is better to set the gap with a feeler gauge,
Poor (low) compression in the combustion chamber.
The air filter is completely (tightly) clogged, and the scooter may not start.
There are problems with the carburetor; at a minimum, it needs to be cleaned and adjusted.
No fuel is getting into the carburetor.
You haven’t started your scooter for a long time; for example, it’s been sitting all winter, try starting it with a pushrod.
I had such a problem, we changed the piston on the engine, cleaned the carburetor and tried to start it for 3 days. There was no way at all from the pedal, and I tried to grab something else from the pusher, but still they couldn’t start it.
You take out the spark plug, it seems to be wet, you calcine it with a burner, there seems to be a spark on the body, but it doesn’t start, somehow it tries a couple more times after calcination, but then it goes out.
They also sinned with a large fuel supply or even thought that the new ring had burst.
But the problem turned out to be in the spark plug itself, they installed a new one, they just started it with the pusher for the first time, probably the piston was filled, and then after applying the gas it started starting with the pedal.
Source
In this sequence because
Electronic ignition costs me. There is a settling, I filmed a video on the channel about what I did and so on, the hall sensor is worth it for the ignition of the Lada. If you don't plan on grinding or doing anything to the flywheel rotor, here it is. This is the glove and you don’t have to take it off, you don’t have to unscrew it, it’s very easy to take it if you repeat, if everything is fine there, it’s not soured on a regular bar, the outflow is good for the bow at 17, like this, and just with a sharp blow on the collar, you don’t need a hammer, because here’s the person’s hand everything unscrews like this, like this, you don’t have to pull out the washer, just let it come out there along with the rotor; take it off; there’s also no point in screwing it in until the very end, right there; you don’t have to do any of this; it’s enough to just make you worry, because there’s a cone there and we you just need to use Yumi in order to rip it further from the cone, you just need to pull it out with your hands, I will use the other side as the other side, the back side of the knob, which means if you pay attention, do it as briefly as possible here so that the knob is bent and dad is all this little thing is interfering with my . The case will probably have to be removed, this is because I have a mount here, it interferes with removing the impeller, I removed it so that it doesn’t interfere, this is all, everything is removed, the connection is removed, I’ll remove the brushes with the commutator, everything is in order, I cleaned the exhaust, there is, but it’s not catastrophic, but I don’t know This is what the collector will look like [music]. Now I’ll remove the brushes and then I’ll show you in more detail what and how it’s done. So the positive brush is attached to one point; the negative brush is attached to two springs, and I also pull it out. Because they are also very important, let's go. On the workbench, look at what the topic means, these are the brushes that these brushes that I took off, they were torn off here but. You can consider any plus or minus, the essence is the same, they have these here. Tents, that is, I don’t know what to call them correctly, but let them have habits, but that is, this conductor that leads is connected to the winding and the brushes themselves are thinner than we take here. I have a brush that, well, another brush on my grandmother is also lying around here, but it’s also visible visually that this brush is thinner, so I measured it with a caliper, about half a millimeter thicker, then here’s the plus brush, take this one and lift it up, it’s generally very visible, look at this one that was standing on the counter food that I don’t have on the farm I found an old one here it’s quite thin here it’s much thicker compared to. With the brushes that I bought for a pretty penny here, it turns out almost twice, too, you see, this can play a key role in general because the current-voltage flows. Through this conductor there should be a fairly good wire, that is, a sufficient cross-section. I also want to say that the material from which the brushes are made is very important. The brushes should be copper-graphite, there are smart people who call it, they say it’s a copper-copper-graphite brush, it rubs the commutator and in general the commutator wears out faster, well, guys Yamz control din secret, as soon as you start the engine it starts to wear out, so if you have such views, don’t start it the engine look at it simply and everything is in the starter brush it is always copper graphite but the whole heap of bright life did not meet at the start the roar of free brushes so perhaps the carbon brush will work but not for long means what I want to do I want to try to install first the old molotov brushes these brushes also, like this, if you look like this, yes, like this, that is, here is the old brush, it is wider than this, I had to bend the mother’s brush holders, these brushes did not hang out, and so on, I want to try first, try to install the old brushes, maybe something like this What's the difference between the brushes and see here like this, the wire is inserted, this brush I think is original, that is, it was on the scooter, why because I got these brushes from the scooter, we got them from the scooter, they were in a green package like this, I think this is it from this package there are brushes and on the above-mentioned website of motor scooters in the search engine, if you are interested in the beta of Soviet motor scooters, you will be taken to the site on the website of the motor scooter. su so the knowledge base is collected there like this. To say that, that is, these guys put brushes like this, in general, these brushes are some of the worst in the blue box, they seem to be normal, which means what I want to do now I want to do now, you can see here the brush should look like this, but it’s sealed like this I must be jumping here to solder here. Because it’s unknown what kind of contact there is and put in old brushes, put in old brushes, try with them, if it doesn’t work with them then I’ll cut out a new one [music]. The bedroom should look something like this. Let me remind you, look, this is how it was, I think the difference is noticeable, I gave part and soldered the second and then I will try by the way. So, what else I want to say is that it’s possible that the brushes were changed because the wire was unsoldered from the brush; that’s why we decided to change it, so brother, that means look, I installed old brushes, that is.
Best answers
Andrey Chivotin:
This is most likely a design feature
Is the ignition set correctly? Does gasoline flow from the carb into the engine?
Alexander Terios:
the ant, or rather its engine, is a prehistoric, extremely capricious design. You need to watch everything. Is the ignition original or does it have a magneto?
Lara Kovman:
Squeeze a couple of spoons of gasoline into the cylinder through the hole for the spark plug, and start it. If it starts, then the oil seals on the crankshaft need to be changed, they siphon and do not allow gasoline to get into the cylinder. Or maybe the ignition is set incorrectly.
Ivan Ivanov:
How did you determine that the spark plug was working?
Vadim Neshcheretny:
If the above does not help, change the spark plug. in practice it was - the spark plug works on atmosphere in the cylinder no
There is practically no information about this on the Internet
Nothing except the scooter site. su there it means this problem is described in detail it means it’s not on YouTube anywhere else this is not a problem, that is, well, it’s not described so I really want to say, brothers, if you don’t have such a tool like this puller, then in general, you shouldn’t even go in here with any of it with pry bars, screwdrivers, and so on, you don’t need to try to disassemble this thing that you are only breaking anti, so you definitely need a puller like this, you can buy it on the Internet, pull them out yourself and there were options [music]. In my case, I'm parsing this one.
Symptoms
The engine starts with great difficulty, there is practically no traction. The owner swears and swears that everything was installed new (you know the symptom too).
In such cases, first of all, you need to check the spark, the ignition timing, the carburetor, the rubber gaskets under the carburetor (the gaskets often burst and thickly and begin to suck air through the cracks) and, just in case, the air filter. If nothing suspicious is found in these devices, measure the compression in the combustion chamber and if it is below 8 kg/cm, feel free to open the piston
In our case, the piston is new, so we will not measure the compression, but will immediately remove the head and see how things are going there. But things here are neither bad nor good: new parts are so disgusting that you need to think three hundred times before buying them.
The new head turned out to be crooked and a fair amount of compression was lost through it. The matter was further complicated by the fact that the cylinder liner was pressed flush with the cooling jacket. Over time, the sleeve warped a little, literally by a tenth of a millimeter, due to which the already crooked head began to rest on the shirt in one place and a decent gap formed between it and the sleeve.
The presence of oil under the head can indirectly indicate depressurization of the combustion chamber. You can see for yourself how much oil there is... How can you drive like this and still wonder why the engine won’t start? How can it start if all the compression has escaped through leaks.
The white holes around the sleeve show how much the head fits onto the shirt and fits decently: in some places by 6 mm
Dark spots on the plane of the head indicate leaks. It was siphoning through them. The problem is actually not that serious: we grind the head and forget about the problem forever
This simply means that they
They are located in one box further, this is very clearly visible here in my example of how I did it, that is, one diode is related to charging, a Schottky diode, or rather a charging relay, everything is related to starting, this is what it is, that is, here you can see it, here it is clearly shown that something in general is There’s no way with each other at all, these are different parts, so people start talking about starting and smoothly flow into charging and tries to do it all, since it’s done by one device, the Dina starter is trying to link it all together, don’t try to link it all together, because the Dina starter, its device is not like that I want to go into the weeds and try to tell us something that no one will understand, but just understand that when necessary, it works as a starter, when necessary, it works as a generator, everything but it takes a long time to explain this, you need a separate video, do you tell how it works at the start, that’s the essence of this video it was just a brief answer that these are different systems and need to be decided first.
It turns out that ants don’t like to work at all, scientists have found
Owners of motorcycles not only made in Russia, but also of foreign cars often face the problem of “shooting” from the muffler. This happens due to improper care of the air-fuel mixture ignition system. The motorcycle shoots the muffler in several cases:
- when using low-quality gasoline;
- malfunction of the electronics system responsible for fuel supply;
- gasoline does not enter the combustion chamber in pure form;
In such cases, you don’t need to wonder why the muffler on a motorcycle shoots. Poor quality gasoline has a very high combustion temperature due to the addition of water, so it does not ignite completely. The remaining drops fall on the walls of the heated muffler
. Their ignition creates pops.
The motorcycle also shoots into the muffler when releasing the gas. The lower the pressure created in the internal combustion chamber, the more droplets enter the muffler. On some bikes, fuel accumulates in the muffler, followed by rare but very loud bangs.
Most often, but not always, owners of the Russian motorcycle industry face this problem. For example, a Ural motorcycle shoots into the carburetor. This occurs due to direct clogging of gasoline in the carburetor itself. To avoid this problem, it is necessary to constantly clean the filters and change the consumables responsible for cleaning the engine. Proper operation of your bike will not only ensure good engine performance, but will also maintain factory specifications.
Well, you can use this one
To check this switch, that is, you connect it, look and the sister is there, which means the switch is fine, this is a very convenient thing, that is, if your sensor is not returned, you can get there and again, it’s convenient for your wife to be delivered, everything is signed here, this is not an advertisement, I’ll just tell you what this is under that video here, answering the question, this is such a thing, emergency ignition m d 1 a for 1, so now I’ll probably assemble it, I’ll probably try the final launch, I’ll show you like this and the final one. The shot yesterday didn’t work out because I had mudflows 0 on the switch, which means the villagers really have a big hole, he’s been there for more than one day, and that’s why it means I charged them, I put them on charge, the current consumption turned out to be 2 amperes for two batteries, that is, they were really discharged, so let’s try I don’t care about the engine being absolutely cold now, I haven’t started anything beforehand, I’m just wondering how it will start, so I’m not pumping up anything, let’s see how it turns. So, but you heard how he got it, that is, he turns it without any problems at all; I repeat, there is something to argue about, he says, he proves that there are two batteries from an uninterruptible power supply, but they are charged and they are not old. Further, I want to briefly answer there, it means a person.
The first reason has been dealt with
The second reason is leaky crankshaft oil seals or a broken flange on which the dynostarter stator is installed. Indirectly, there is little evidence of a leaky oil seal on the cooling fan volute. If you see oil dripping from the cavity of the dynostarter, immediately remove it and see what’s wrong there.
The inside of the snail is covered in oil: a sure sign of a dead seal
That’s right: the cavity is full of oil, the oil seal is dead, the flange is not screwed to the crankcase. Here’s your “capital”...
The spring is either original, or it was found in a trash heap and then stuck here - it’s not clear. Another thing is clear: the spring should stand on the cuff, and not hang snot on the shaft
Behind the flange it’s the same story: a broken spring
The flange was unscrewed and something like Niagara Falls was siphoning through it... This is evidenced by the presence of oil on the gasket
Another point: a new crankshaft was installed in the engine. Naturally they took the Chinese shaft, but there were no others. How is this shaft working? The bad: the keyway on this one was broken. Most likely, the metal from which this obscenity is made is raw and the cone is machined incorrectly. If you decide to buy a new crankshaft, it’s better to buy a used Soviet one, restore it, and don’t mess with this crap
The brushes that were originally on it, well, I do
I suppose they were standing to forge, I want more not in thickness, they are shorter because they have a working out, but they have thicker wires, these ones, which means they weren’t soldered, I soldered them, that is, two brushes, that’s where the wire was soldered in, they weren’t soldered, let’s let's see the result, I'll just take a look now and the key, I won't tighten anything just for the sake of experimenting so that how it turns and whether it turns so that later you can immediately remove it and install other brushes if anything and what else I wanted to say is that I must degrease all the brushes that I touched with my hands I degrease the fuel oil with a solvent, this is a mandatory procedure because so that your collector doesn’t drain and something like that ends up like that. So, look, I don’t even twist it, let’s try to get out of it and that’s the result. Yes, you see that the batteries cost me the same, these are 7 amp batteries from an uninterruptible power supply, so I’ll put this thing together in a heap and I’ll watch how it starts, well, it’s clear and I won’t show the assembly, well, the assembly is in reverse in reverse order on what else I wanted to draw your attention, brothers, to how to tighten it, so if you do this often, it makes sense to make a key, that is, the key will look like this crescent and two.
Magneto, or in search of a spark
how to find a spark from the magneto of the EFCOLEO petrol trimmer
Magneto is a magnetoelectric alternating current generator that creates electrical discharges between the electrodes of the spark plug to ignite the working mixture in the cylinders of internal combustion engines.
The operation of a magneto is based on the principle of electromagnetic induction.
The essence of induction is as follows: when a magnetic field is crossed by a closed conductor, an electric current arises in this conductor. When electric current passes through a conductor, a magnetic field is created around that conductor.
Magnetic field is the space around a magnet in which magnetic lines of force (or magnetic flux) pass. These lines are located denser between the poles of the magnet.
Alternating current can be excited in a conductor by rapidly changing the direction of the magnetic flux crossing it, for example, by turning a magnet around a wire coil. The operation of a magneto with a rotating magnet is based on this principle.
As the magnet rotates, the magnetic flux passing through the rod changes in magnitude and direction; As a result, an electric current arises in the winding, first in one direction and then in the other.
The capacitor serves to improve the operation of the magneto. With a capacitor, a strong spark is formed, without it, a weak spark is formed.
A capacitor is connected in parallel with the breaker contacts in order to reduce the sparking that occurs when the primary current is interrupted at the breaker contacts.
When the magnet rotates, it excites a current in the primary winding, which is short-circuited by the contacts of the breaker.
When the current in the primary circuit reaches its maximum, the breaker contacts open. Because of this, the primary current is instantly interrupted. The magnetic field that was created by the primary current also disappears. This sudden change in the magnetic field excites a high voltage current in the secondary circuit, which can break the gap between the electrodes of the corresponding spark plug. Further rotation of the magneto rotor causes the formation of a new spark, etc.
What can you drive on a dynastar dash if
You opened if you opened the starter, unscrewed the original old brushes and saw that they have 10 pine and if the brushes are dented, you don’t need to run and buy brushes, just solder them and perhaps I will repeat, perhaps because there are still a bunch of others that I talked about in the Andes which for whom it may turn poorly at the start, and perhaps everything will be fine for you, that is, just solder the brush electronics and radio engineering the science of contacts, so that’s all, all the best, see you again, repair your dyna starter and goodbye [music]
Answers from experts
Vladimir Frolov:
Hello Boris. I see problems with the ant again. The spark plug is wet or dry after trying to start it. If it's dry, there's a problem with the carburetor. If it is wet, then there are problems with installation and ignition timing. And the spark plugs also spark at the contacts or on the side. Perhaps they are damp.
if you try two strokes directly into the gasoline cylinder and try to start it.
No fuel or no spark. Who asked you to change the bobbin and capacitor? Try to drop gasoline into the cylinder if there is a spark. The capacitor and bobbin form an oscillatory circuit, therefore any change in the system leads to a drop in voltage and, accordingly, spark energy. That is why the mixture may not ignite.
Lord Iron aka CyberDemon:
Let us say that all ants are not very good at starting up when it’s cold. To start them, use the starter lever on the steering wheel. I usually start it with the following sequence: Start the trigger lever all the way clockwise (the cable is pulled tight and opens the channel to create a rich mixture). I press the float button on the carburetor and hold it until gasoline drips from the carburetor drain hole, release it and make a few pumps with the starter. Again, once I hold the float button on the carburetor until gasoline drips from the drainage hole, I release it and give it a few pumping strokes and then after two pumpings, I turn on the ignition and start it. As soon as the engine started rattling, the starting lever was in place.
If the ant has been standing for a long time - a month or more - you need to disassemble the carburetor and wash it. When left standing for a long time, gasoline evaporates from the carburetor, thickened oil remains behind, which clogs all channels and prevents the normal fuel mixture from forming. If the compression is bad, then starting is easy. with a normal piston and rings, the clearance is normal, the resistance of the crank is clearly felt by hand when the piston goes to the top point
to start when cold, I give advice from personal experience, before starting, unscrew the air jet on the carb (above the fuel) half a turn, choke it and try to start. Start right away and it works like a hot one, but after a couple of minutes after warming up it starts to choke, screw the jet back and drive quietly I always do this in cold weather or fall, Also adjust the flow (fuel bolt) Good luck
I turn the two bolts and insert them like this
Here I keep it simply and then. Here you don’t need to pull so that your eyes pop out, why because it’s cooler, don’t you have to pull until the end, in general, all the points are there, in my opinion, all the points should be there in the repair book. So, if suddenly, God forbid, the rotor gets unscrewed, you hear it, the sound will be like the main bearing knocking, then there will be a dull sound, repeating itself again more carefully, why because if you tighten this thread until you stop, you can leave it there, it will bend and break off, now I’ll assemble it and try to start it starter, guys, don’t you dare, I’m not going to start this thing yet, now try it and let’s try how it will turn the flashes and all that [music]. [music]. But you heard that’s how it starts. Not manipulated by how cold it became, I opened the enrichment, pulled and it started up, which means that a small whistle appeared from the side and a small whistle appeared on the starter, I don’t know whether it will be audible on the video or not, but it’s there, it’s very good, it was also audible when I checked it was done without winding up, checking, I just cranked it, that's what the whistle is, most likely it's the brushes that aren't ground in, I didn't ruin the springs, otherwise then it's disgusting to put new ones in there, then they don't fit, and that is, I didn't tighten them, I don't have the standard as they were, they are. but nevertheless, such a sound appeared.
Why can't an ant live alone?
Entomological scientists from Switzerland conducted a study on Middle Eastern carpenter ants, trying to find out what would happen to them when left alone.
It turned out that nothing was good, the loners died quickly. The ants were divided into a number of groups based on quantitative characteristics. The first group had ten ants, the second group had two, and the third group had one. They tried to plant larvae in the solitary ones. The entire experiment was filmed with video cameras.
Results: if an ant sat alone, it lived for about 6 days, while in a group they lived for about 66 days. In company with larvae, ants live 22-29 days.
Scientists have determined that it's all about the behavioral factor. Solitary ants move more and do so randomly. It is precisely this disordered activity that leads to digestive problems and subsequent exhaustion. Singles only have enough strength for 6 days.
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Then first one then the other
Because they are trying to somehow find some kind of relationship, there is no relationship, with the exception of a reservation, with the exception of the brushes that I changed on the dynastar body, these brushes affect both the carbon brushes do not wear out quickly, they produce dust, that is, if you I often use the scooter, you will install carbon brushes and I don’t know how long after I didn’t install them and I don’t even want to try, but very quickly you will have dirt and dust there, you will stop charging, we will stop starting, but and so on, that means the goal has been achieved, the repair is simple, I’ll tell you showed what these brushes mean. This is somewhere, this is some kind of brush. Which you need, although outwardly they look like everything else, that is, when you buy, you won’t understand until you put them on, look at the thickness of this wire because it is through this wire that a large current flows. The thinner the conductor, the greater its resistance, so high resistance will not allow the eye to leak and it will get warm, and so on, in general, I advise you to read Ohm’s law, it is used everywhere in electrical engineering, in radio engineering, Ohm’s law is, well, how would it be needed? colors, if you understand this, you will repair I showed you everything that I didn’t solder the brushes here, I soldered those old brushes and he turns the oil for his dear soul and so on.
Treatment
- Lapping the head
- We cut out a head gasket from thin paronite (0.6-0.8 mm) (using it we will forever eliminate the gap between the liner and the head), smear it with lithol, wait 30 minutes until the gasket becomes limp, put it on the cylinder and tighten the head
- We install a new oil seal
- With strict adherence to all the canons of Feng Shui, we screw the flange to the crankcase
- Let’s pull the “drain stick” and enjoy the flawless operation of the engine
Why doesn't the engine run in the heat?
Graph of air density as temperature increases (kg/cubic meter)
To understand why the engine begins to pull worse when it heats up, it is enough to understand the conditions of fuel combustion. The fact is that at low temperatures the amount of air in one cubic meter is greater (the air density is higher), and as the temperature increases, its mass decreases. For example, at a temperature of –20°C, the mass of air in one cubic meter is about 1.4 kg, and at a temperature of +30°C, the same mass is 1.16 kg. This means that as the air temperature increases, the car begins to “suffocate” and traction decreases slightly. This is true for all gasoline engines, including fully functional ones.
But if the thrust disappears significantly on a hot engine, then it is worth looking for the reason in the fuel system or ignition, and not in the process of fuel combustion itself.
We measure the voltage at the starter relay but
Maybe there is a red wire, I saw a pink one, there is a white wire, but the thickest wire that comes out of the dino starter is the thickest on it there is one, that's where this wire is screwed on, we are there to measure the voltage at the time when we when you turn the key to then put it spinning and look how much the voltage drops and measure the voltage at the terminal. How much does the voltage drop in the battery, so if there is a big difference in these measurements, for example, let’s say there, I don’t know, well, two volts is an example. Look for a problem in the starter relay, that is, it means either the contacts are burnt or something else, that is, if your voltage is the same, nothing gets hot, then everything here is similar. The problem means I will repeat why I am linking to the scooter site. soup because there a lot of information was collected on the motor by Lehr on repairs and maintenance and so on, specifically on Soviet roller skates, both Thai Slipper and Vyatka, so one person there had a similar problem, that is, the plug-in starter did not rotate well at the start, but it was about kim nim, but he had a goat in the starter windings, this happens very rarely, but it does happen, but basically with such a problem it doesn’t rotate well, there are a few options: 1 bad contact, which I told the weaklings more precisely, and 1 weak battery, 2 bad contacts, third, thin wires, fourth burnt contacts of the starter relay, well, and then we were already climbing the boat to get up and dug for the very last brushes, that is, you saw the purchase, yes, I installed the brushes now I’ll bring it to the silence, I would have bought these brushes in the same way and would not have suspected anything that we were brushes and the brushes are new, all for the sake of quality, it looks like everything is there, but when you start to delve into the question, that is, what it is made of, but it seems to be copper graphite, that is, you can see that there is such a thing, like red on it, and so on, when you start measuring, it means this is this thickness Well, these brushes are about a millimeter smaller, why is it because I had to hold or press the first time, but I figured it out, I looked, I think maybe the holders are positioned incorrectly and the brushes hang, sometimes the brushes hang, and the table brush doesn’t come out back, that’s why it doesn’t pedal well, so when you start to delve into the question that this flagellum of wiring turns out to be thinner, this also has a big effect, that is, but it doesn’t let through the flow, roughly speaking, from which it is necessary and that’s all, plus people said that these are these. The brushes are in green boxes; they are not good; however, the charger did not charge.
