Indicators of physical and chemical properties
Characteristics of Fork Oil Factory Line 7.5W:
High performance hydraulic oil for all types of telescopic forks. 100% Synthetic, Ester Technology.
Application Hydraulic oil for use in high-speed competitions. Specially designed for KAYABA, SHOWA, OHLINS, WP forks and all other types of telescopic invertible and conventional forks.
Characteristics Internal friction, in particular between the dip tubes and the connection, is reduced thanks to the exclusive anti-friction additive complex developed by MOTUL. Very high and stable performance from the first revolution of the wheel. High non-foaming characteristics prevent air movement and degassing in the air chamber, thereby maintaining suspension characteristics. Increased anti-wear qualities and superpressure qualities. Anti-corrosion. Connection protection.
Recommendations for use MOTUL Fork Oil Factory Line fork oils can be mixed with each other to achieve optimal shock absorption effect. Use in quantities recommended by the manufacturer.
Hence, kinematic viscosity is important to us.
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Motorcycle suspension care.
Another short and obvious article, this time about caring for motorcycle suspension. There are a lot of well-known points, but overall it’s a good read.
Typically, suspension maintenance, in addition to basic things like cleanliness and periodic visual inspections, is not available to the average motorcycle owner in a garage environment, however, it is necessary to understand that shock absorbers, progression and other suspension components are the same motorcycle parts that require periodic maintenance . For adequate operation of a motorcycle suspension, it is still necessary to sometimes turn to professionals for its maintenance.
Wear on a motorcycle's suspension is not always obvious. It usually happens gradually, so most motorcycle owners simply don’t notice it.
Probably the most important factor affecting suspension performance is the condition of the oil. Optimal damping characteristics are achieved when it is fresh. In addition to lubricating all internal elements of the shock absorbers, the oil allows you to achieve the same suspension characteristics regardless of temperature.
The main reason for “oil waste” is its heating during operation. Heating breaks large oil molecules into smaller ones, which, as a result of reaction with oxygen, are in turn converted into heavier particles that precipitate and clog narrow channels. Oil's job is to convert impact energy into heat, which is why it has a limited service life. In addition, no matter how careful you are, moisture will still, sooner or later, seep inside the shock absorber, mixing with the oil and changing its structure. In the end, it will not lubricate the rubbing surfaces as effectively, which will significantly affect their wear.
In order to maximize the life of your motorcycle suspension, you need to:
Keep the fork and rear shock absorber clean.
Keeping your motorcycle suspension parts clean will prolong their service life. Do not leave dirt to dry on shock absorbers, as moisture can eventually deteriorate the chrome plating of the shock absorber stays and rod, and dirt can shorten the life of the seals and boots. At the same time, cleaning the anthers with an oil-soaked sponge will create an additional barrier to moisture, but it is better not to pressure wash them.
Assess the condition of the suspension for wear.
Any wear on the working surfaces of suspension parts leads to loss of control and precision when driving the motorcycle. Worn front fork guides reduce control accuracy; progressive play negatively affects cornering accuracy, and also impairs control of the rear wheel.
Metal surfaces wear out during friction, but the higher the viscosity of the oil, the slower this happens. The suspensions of a number of motorcycles require the use of low viscosity oils due to the design of the forks. Remember that when using oil of low viscosity, it will need to be replaced more often.
Carry out regular maintenance and oil changes.
To understand when it's time to change fork oil, you need to remember that its main function is to convert impact energy into heat.
Already after 50 km. after changing the oil, it loses color, although its properties, of course, do not deteriorate at such a distance. An alarm signal is deteriorating damping characteristics. This means that the oil has lost its viscosity and it’s time to change it. The main reason oil loses viscosity is heat. Therefore, if you apply high heat in a short period of time, for example, during an intense workout on the track, it may be that the oil needs to be changed after each such workout. Although we admit that this is not practical...
Therefore, for road motorcycles, we recommend a fork oil change interval of once every 12 months, or once every 15,000 - 20,000 kilometers. For cross-country motorcycles, it is enough to replace every 40-60 hours of not very intense training.
The rear shock absorber is a slightly different matter. But in fact, if you decide to change its settings, you will inevitably face the need to change the oil in it. If you take part in competitions, the service interval is reduced and depends on how intensively you use the suspension.
Never serviced for 40,000 - 60,000 km. suspension mileage? Does it stink of cat urine and rot? As a rule, this means that everything is so bad inside that other suspension parts need to be replaced.
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Izh motorcycle engine - how much oil to fill
Izh 2.673 Cornet
Izh Cornet is a mini-motorcycle with a ground clearance of 195 mm. Characteristic features of this model are a high steering wheel, disc brakes and chrome parts. The lining is plastic, the footrests are moved forward. Thanks to its compact dimensions, the motorcycle is maneuverable and economical. It is equipped with a two-stroke 2-cylinder engine with a carburetor power supply system and air cooling. The lubrication system is combined (oil mixed with fuel). The estimated speed of the Izh Cornet motorcycle does not exceed 50 km/h.
Year of manufacture: 2001
Two-stroke 2-cylinder, carburetor, 50 cc. cm, 2.21 l. pp., oil volume – 20:1, approval: API-TC
Izh 6.113-020-05 Junker
Izh Junker is a recreational motorcycle with a ground clearance of 175 mm. It is made in the American style, and its distinctive features (compared to its predecessors) are a high steering wheel and a streamlined teardrop-shaped tank. The instrument panel is mounted on the tank.
The developers managed to ensure the comfort of passengers by installing a two-level saddle, which can accommodate just two. In addition, the Junker is equipped with a front disc brake, and a “drum” is installed at the rear.
An updated intake and exhaust system is installed, which is relatively quiet and provides higher thrust at low speeds than previous models. The total production volume of the Izh Junker motorcycle was 6,000 copies, including modifications for special services.
Years of production – 2000-2005
Two-stroke 2-barrel, carburetor, 347 cc. cm, power – 24 l. pp., oil volume – 20:1, approval – API-TC
Izh Planet 7
Izh Planet 7 is a middle-class motorcycle, the successor to the successful Planet 5 model. Owners positively evaluate Planet 7, which has a rather interesting original design, a powerful and economical engine and has high maintainability.
However, there are also disadvantages: low reliability of rear wheel bearings, insufficiently efficient air cooling (especially in hot weather), poor quality assembly and weak traction in versions with a trailer. The Izh Planet 7.107 modification periodically experiences strong engine vibrations.
Next, we note the main improvements compared to its predecessor (Planet-5): a lightweight 4-stroke engine of smaller volume but similar power, an electric starter for starting, a narrower gas tank, new instrument panel and optics with turn signals, electronic non-contact ignition, improved clutch, separate lubrication and five-speed gearbox. The improvements made had a positive effect on the dynamic qualities.
Years of production – 1987-2008
4-stroke, 2-cylinder, 250cc cm, 20 l. pp., oil volume – 2 liters, tolerance and viscosity: API-SG, SH, SJ; SAE 10W-40
What you need to know about the oil that is poured into shock absorbers
The main function of a car shock absorber is to eliminate and reduce various types of vibrations during driving, as well as smooth out road unevenness in relation to the car body. For this function, most of these units use in their design a special substance poured into them, which essentially allows for a reduction in active vibrations of the car body during active driving.
But we’ll talk below about how it affects the sensations and behavior of the car itself and how to change the oil in the shock absorber and show everything clearly in the video.
Functions and Features
Despite the wide range of products offered, there are many discrepancies and uncertainties in their designation and parameters. Thus, the operational requirements for fork oils include:
- Ensuring optimal fork damping and stable performance over a wide temperature range.
- Independence of oil performance from fork design.
- Prevents foaming.
- Elimination of corrosive effects on metal parts of the shock absorber and fork.
- Chemical inertness of the composition.
Lubricant inside the shock absorber
The oil product contained in a car's shock absorber directly affects its ability to reduce body sway. Depending on the oil model and its characteristics, the behavior of the entire shock-absorbing element will also depend.
For example, if high-viscosity shock absorber fluid is filled, the shock absorber will be quite slow, will prevent the car from rolling well, will keep the car stable at high speeds, and will hold the car well when entering a turn at high speed.
But it will perform poorly on rough roads with potholes, where the key point is the speed of reaction of the entire suspension of the car to a wheel that has fallen into a hole or shock absorption of a pothole.
It is also worth noting that the lubricating fluid for car shock absorbers can be with a minimum viscosity, then the shock absorber becomes fast, but it wears out on oil with low viscosity and high fluidity much faster than on thick oil.
How to choose the oil that can be poured into the shock-absorbing element of the machine
For example, a lubricant with a rating of 30W will be significantly less viscous and have greater fluidity than 60W oil
For example, if you live in the northern regions, then you do not need viscous oil, because it will thicken even more in the cold, it would be more logical to use a very liquid oil product with a low viscosity, for example, 75W, since it will thicken in the cold at the initial stage driving until it warms up a little from work and friction, about 30W and gradually increases to 75W while driving with increasing temperature of the shock absorber.
Therefore, here we can say with confidence that the liquid for the car’s shock absorbers should be chosen taking into account the climatic conditions where you will use the car most.
For example, popular shock absorber oils with low viscosity
It is not recommended to fill shock absorbers with any kind of oil, especially with a large number of unknown additives, which can ultimately corrode the rubber and silicone sealing rings of the shock absorber, which will lead to oil leakage and, accordingly, to the non-function of the shock absorber.
Izh Planet-5 gearbox diagram
In order to properly handle the device, you need to know not only the principles of its operation and operating rules, but also the circuit diagram of the unit. This is especially true when you need to independently repair any component of the motorcycle. This is also true for the gearbox. The Izh Planet-5 checkpoint diagram looks like this:
Each part will be described according to its number.
- Primary shaft of the gearbox of the Izh Planet motorcycle.
- Gear (gear) required for 2nd gear.
- Stop washer.
- Ring for installing elements.
- Gear (gear) for 2nd and 3rd gears.
- Primary shaft assembly.
- Washers.
- Additional shaft with bearing.
- Sprocket for secondary shaft.
- Lock washer.
- Nut for secondary shaft.
- Nut cap for secondary shaft.
- Ring.
- Intermediate shaft.
- Gear (gear) for 3rd gear.
- Installation ring.
- Gear (gear) for 1st and 4th gears.
- View of the gear (gear) of the 1st gear in a complete assembled set.
- Intermediate shaft with gears.
After studying the diagram and its components, you can begin to analyze the checkpoint itself.
Important! Although the diagram looks simple, for effective repairs you need to know the rules and instructions for assembly and disassembly. This is the only way to ensure the quality of the work performed.
How much fluid to pour into the shock-absorbing unit of the car
Here it is impossible to say unambiguously how much oil should be filled in for car shock absorbers, since it depends specifically on the shock absorber model itself. But speaking on average, these are usually volumes from 100 ml to 250 ml. It all depends on the diameter of the shock absorber and its design solutions.
When filling the shock absorber, it is important to strictly follow the norm for this particular model of shock-absorbing device, since underfilling and overfilling will significantly reduce the life of the shock absorber and at the same time may deprive it of some functions - for example, such as anti-breakdown when not filling the shock absorber with enough oil. We will describe specifically how to correctly and accurately calculate the amount of oil required for filling in this article.
By the way, the price of a shock absorber Hyundai Santa Fe 2006-2010, which is more or less acceptable for installation, starts at a price mark of $70.
And our post of liquid for pouring into shock-absorbing elements of a car has come to an end, if you have something to add or share something interesting, we will be glad to see it in the comments.
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Installation of the cylinder-piston group
It is not advisable to remove the gearbox cover until the sealant has dried; there is no need to rush in this matter. It’s better not to rush things and install the cylinder while the sealant dries.
Add some motor oil:
- into the upper head of the connecting rod
- lower connecting rod head
- into both oil channels of the crank chamber
To improve lubrication, it is advisable to drill holes in the piston bosses. But you don’t have to drill - it depends on your desire.
Install the piston pin retaining ring into the boss. Before installation, it is advisable to bend the locking ring a little and be sure to check how it fits after installation:
- If the retaining ring dangles, straighten it or replace it with a new one.
- If the retaining ring is not completely flat, replace it with a new one.
We heat the piston with a hairdryer and, using a mandrel, drive the finger into the piston so that it comes out no more than 5-6mm.
We look for an arrow-shaped mark on the bottom of the piston.
We orient the piston with the arrow towards the exhaust port of the cylinder (“towards the exhaust”), put the piston on the connecting rod, hammer in the piston pin and install the second retaining ring.
We insert the rings into the cylinder and measure the gap between the locks with a feeler gauge:
- If the gap is less than 0.3-0.45, sharpen the ring locks with a file
- If the gap is greater than 0.3-0.45, install new rings; if that doesn’t help, bore the cylinder to the repair size
To improve the wearability of the rings and reduce noise from engine operation, it is advisable to chamfer the edges of the rings. If hunting gets too much trouble: place the ring on a flat surface and use a file to slightly round the edges.
We put the rings on the piston, fill the piston with the rings with oil, install a gasket under the cylinder (preferably with sealant), tighten the rings with a clamp. We cut the clamp out of tin and from the same tin we bend the bracket with which we will fix it.
We put on the cylinder.
After the rings go into the cylinder, unfasten the clamp, lower the cylinder and screw it to the crankcase.
We turn the crankshaft several times and if the piston moves in the cylinder easily and without grinding, lower it down a little, pour a little engine oil into the cylinder, install a new gasket on the cylinder and screw the head on.
We install the additional crankshaft support bearing in its place, place the required number of adjusting washers on top and secure it with a retaining ring. The adjusting washers must ensure axial play of the crankshaft within 0.1 mm.
Before installation, sealed bearings must be opened! The usual 304 goes here.
On the other side of the crankshaft we install a flange with a main oil seal.
Pay attention to the oil channel through which oil flows to the right main bearing of the crankshaft. According to the good old collective farm tradition, this channel is sealed with sealant and the lubrication of the bearing stops
To avoid this trouble, place the flange dry without sealant and everything will be fine.
After the sealant has dried, you can begin adjusting and assembling the gearbox and replacing the clutch basket.
Numbers of bearings and oil seals for the Izh-Planet motorcycle engine 2, 3, 4 and fifth model.
- Crankshaft main bearings 2505k
- Additional crankshaft support bearing 304
- Right oil seal IZH-yu sb. 1-48-3
- Left main oil seal IZH-yu sb. 1-50
Shock absorber oil
Thanks to the shock absorber, the car moves smoothly while driving, without sudden jolts or unpleasant vibrations. When accelerating and sharply braking, the car's wheels, alternately the rear and front ones, receive additional load and, as a result, the vehicle's traction is greatly deteriorated. The main task of the shock-absorbing device is precisely to keep the car in good traction with the road, that is, to maintain the smoothness of its ride and movement.
This suspension element is a cylindrical structure with a moving piston mechanism. The piston moves up and down and shock-absorbing fluid flows through its holes from one cavity of the cylinder to the other. The speed of its flow depends on the diameters of the piston holes and on the pressure created inside the cylindrical cavities. As a result of the whole process, resistance appears, which dampens the resulting vibrations.
Shock absorbers can be with or without a membrane. The presence of a membrane inside the shock-absorbing device allows the oil and air to be separated. If the amount of oil used is more than necessary, the balance will be upset and there will be no room left for the air layer, which will lead to a decrease in the degree of vibration damping. A diaphragmless shock absorber does not have an air layer, so all the air is directly in the oil, which causes it to foam, significantly reducing its viscosity properties. Separating the oil layer and the air layer using a membrane allows for a more stable shock absorber operation and increases the suspension performance coefficient.
A problem that some drivers may encounter is shock absorber leakage. This may be due to damage to the seals that hold the shock absorber fluid inside the cylinder. Damage to the seals can be caused by simple wear, improper operation during use, initially poor quality of the suspension part, or the factor where the vehicle was used (the quality of the roads themselves). Correct assembly also plays an important role in further operation.
How to change gears in Izh Planet-5
For beginners, changing gears on a motorcycle is difficult. In fact, thanks to the existing gearbox, this is not so difficult.
Attention! On motor vehicles, there are two types of gear shifting: “up” and “down”. In this case, the first is used to engage a higher gear, and the second – a low one.
In order to increase the speed on Izh Planet-5, you need to follow several steps:
- engage first gear and gradually increase speed;
- quickly release the gas while simultaneously lowering the speed. At the same time, you should squeeze the clutch lever;
- engage the next gear;
- release the clutch, after which you can immediately increase the speed and increase the revolutions.
When going uphill, it may be necessary to engage a low gear using the down shifter to increase power from the rear wheel. In this case, the action algorithm will be as follows:
- slow down and squeeze the clutch lever;
- engage low gear;
- The clutch can be released and the gas applied.
The Izh Planet gear shift shaft has the following speed modes: first (goes with downward pressure), second and the rest up to four (goes up), and between the second and third there is a neutral position.
Oil viscosity
When choosing oil for a car shock absorber, it is necessary to take into account its viscosity. The consistency of the shock-absorbing liquid must be indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging as a number. The higher this number, the higher the viscosity of the liquid. And the higher the viscosity of the fluid, the more resistance the shock absorber piston will encounter during operation. If the viscosity is too low, the damping piston wears out faster.
The shock-absorbing fluid must be selected taking into account the temperature conditions and quality of the roads in the area where the car will mostly be used. For example, at low temperatures and on rough roads, it is best to fill shock-absorbing devices with low-viscosity oil. Then road grip increases significantly. High-viscosity oil is excellent for highway use, as well as for vehicle operation at high temperatures.
Knowing the characteristics of the oil, liquid or thick, you can easily choose the most suitable one depending on the operating conditions of the vehicle. What is the best shock absorber oil to use?
Advantages of liquid oil
Liquid oil is intended for cars that mostly drive on uneven roads with pronounced bumps and potholes. Its use provides the following advantages:
Pros of thick oil
Thick oil is ideal for a car that is most often driven on smooth roads without any visible damage. Its use allows:
It is necessary to select oil in accordance with the specified characteristics.
In the last issue, dedicated to choosing the “right” oil for the fork, a number of mistakes were made, which @4tres rightly pointed out to me, for which many thanks to him. I also want to say thank you to all the commentators who wrote utter nonsense, and thereby provoked knowledgeable people to object in a reasoned, justified manner and with links to useful materials. Who would have thought that such comments would be useful! In this article, I hope we will be able to finish the topic of fork oil viscosity. So, anyone interested in damping, static and dynamic viscosity, quality oils and liquids, let’s figure it out together.
Viscosity affects damping parameters - error?
Here I made the assumption that since oil manufacturers indicate viscosity in their data sheets, it directly affects the damping parameters. The second assumption was that since my sources compared oils precisely according to this parameter, and did not take into account the density of the oil, then it does not affect anything. As for the first one, yes, but no. But the second one was a fiasco... There are two types of viscosity. Kinematic , which characterizes the speed of fluid flow under the influence of gravity, and dynamic , which precisely determines the viscous friction forces arising in the shock absorber.
Kinematic(v) and dynamic(n) viscosities are related by the formula. Why oil manufacturers all indicate kinematic viscosity instead of dynamic viscosity, which directly affects the operation of the suspension, is a mystery to me. Perhaps because viscometers determine exactly this, and it’s stupidly simpler this way: you don’t need to recalculate, you don’t need to take into account the density of the liquid.
Well, the density is indicated, take it and multiply it!
Again yes, but no.
The density of liquids is known to depend on temperature. The density of the oil, however, depends on temperature quite significantly. Oil workers even, as it turns out, have special conversion tables for this. These tables tell us that: 1) the degree of dependence of density on temperature is linear; 2) as the temperature increases, the density of petroleum products decreases; 3) the higher the oil density, the smaller the temperature correction. The first two points in the context of fork oils mean that, in fact, dynamic viscosity will have an even more pronounced temperature dependence than kinematic one. The third point means that a denser oil with equal dynamic viscosity at a certain point will have less of a change in the effect on the fork’s operating mode when the temperature changes than a less dense one. But in the range in which the density of fork oils lies, changes expressed as a percentage of the original density amount to a few percent. In short, you still need to take into account the density, but you can forget about the temperature... it would be if everyone were normal people and indicated the density at the same temperature, but no, half write the density at 20C, the other half - at 15, so that them. Well, okay, the formulas have already been established, so we’ll survive. I was going to add density data to the table, I even started doing it. But then I decided to check whether it makes such a big difference? I took the ill-fated Honda oil, for which almost nothing is indicated, and made three examples of curves for dynamic rather than kinematic viscosity: at the maximum density among oils (green), at the minimum (red) and at average, but without taking into account the temperature coefficient of change in density (orange) and this is what happened: It turns out that the influence of density on the value of dynamic viscosity will be a maximum of 8%. On the one hand, this, of course, is nonsense, on the other hand, it may turn out that the dynamic viscosity of the oil due to this will be higher than that of the original not by 2 times, but by 2.2, and this will be a reason to refuse what is more different. Well, then, I’ve already started the formulas, why not? One way or another, searching and reading datasheets tired me out quite a bit, so at a certain point I just went and entered the average density for all the oils that I couldn’t find or didn’t want to. Such cells are highlighted in red. For such oils, it turns out that the dynamic viscosity will not be calculated exactly, but with a tolerance of 5 percent. Those who need more accuracy can enter it themselves for the oils of interest.
Does the fork eventually reach operating temperature and remain there? In theory, no.
The argument would be normal if there was a thermostat and a cooling system, but there is nothing like that in the suspensions that I know of.
What is there that determines the established temperature regime? Everything is quite simple: 1) The node in which heat is generated. Actually, these are those parts of the fork where viscous friction and sliding friction occur - heat generation power . 2) The path that heat travels to the surface from which it dissipates into the atmosphere - thermal resistance . 3) The surface from which it is actually scattered is essentially a radiator .
The heat dissipation power (P) inside clearly indicates how the fork behaves at a certain riding speed on a certain surface. It will be directly proportional to the dynamic viscosity, P=kN*n, where kN is a complex coefficient that also takes into account motion conditions. Thermal resistance is a constant value that will determine the temperature difference at steady state, directly proportional to the heat transfer power (T2-T1 = R*P). Well, the power of heat dissipation in steady state will be equal to the power of heat release, and is directly proportional to the area, shape and speed of air flow (kT), as well as the temperature difference between the surface of the fork and the environment T0, P=(T2-T0)*kT.
And so, I’m driving along a broken dirt road at 100 odd kilometers per hour and the only thing I care about is what is my heat output? And the higher it will be, the higher the dynamic viscosity of the oil. Directly proportional to it. In further calculations for thermal resistance, we will completely forget, because the calculation is not to determine the temperature, but to show the significant difference between seemingly identical oils. Let’s say that outside the visor window T0=0C, the oil begins to warm up, and the temperature regime will be as follows: kN*n(T)=T*kT n(T)/T = kT/kN
That is, under the same conditions, no matter what conditions we choose, we get the same ratio of viscosity at a certain temperature to this temperature. Now let’s compare, say, Honda Pro HP Fork Oil (10wt) and MOTUL Fork Oil Expert 10W oil, which have the same SAE classification and even practically the same viscosity at 40C (35.20 and 35.90, respectively) , but different temperature coefficients: Yes, of course, it would be possible to calculate more accurately, but frankly, I’m lazy. For me, the result, even with an accuracy of plus or minus 5 degrees, is very significant: the fork will behave differently, and a difference of 20% will be noticeable .
Although, in fairness, it must be admitted that less temperature-stable oil will actually reach the temperature regime faster, and then it will heat up more slowly. But it will have its own temperature regime, and not the one we would like, and, moreover, highly dependent on the ambient temperature
Well, a simple experiment
The weather was great the other day, so armed with a children's infrared thermometer, I started making circles around the area, measuring the difference in temperature between the outer part of the fork and the environment. Here's what happened: Asphalt, country driving - a few degrees. Primer, long-term driving over 100 km/h - up to ten degrees Celsius, maximum 10. It was not possible to heat it up more than 10. Based on this, we can finally draw conclusions about how to choose oil for the fork. What does it mean? The fact is that at 0C the difference in damping efficiency between our oils will be more than 50%, at 10C it will be more than 20%, but at 20C it will really not be noticeable, provided that driving is sufficiently aggressive. With a quiet ride and smooth asphalt, everything will be worse, and the difference of 20% will remain until 20C, and up to 10C we will get more than 50% of excess damping energy with Motul.
So, the oil selection algorithm
1) Determine at what temperature the motorcycle is primarily used.
For example, according to Wikipedia, the average monthly temperature from April to October, taking into account the fact that we still travel less often at night than during the day, will be about 15C (although depending on how, this figure may be significantly lower for some). 2) If your plans are mainly for out-of-town trips, we don’t do anything with this figure. If you often have to drive on primers, add 10-15 degrees; for active driving in urban conditions, add 5-10. Well, the best way is to measure the differences in temperature between your motorcycle and your oil. 3) Find the oil recommended by the manufacturer, or whatever you used. We find its viscosity at this temperature. 4) We select oils in the filter that at a given temperature will have approximately the same viscosity as our oil at the one at which we liked it best (and if it is not clear at which temperature, it is better to take the viscosity of the oil recommended by the manufacturer at +30 for start). 5) We look at the graphs. We select the most temperature-stable oil from the suitable ones. 6) If there are no suitable ones, we take some two cool oils from the same manufacturer, one of which will be more viscous than required, the second less viscous. We select their proportions so as to obtain the viscosity we need at the temperature we need. Updated sign
Sources
Viscosity testing methodology The concept of dynamic and kinematic viscosity on Wikipedia On the recalculation of the density of petroleum products at different temperatures On the calculation of viscous resistance forces
Shock absorber oil volume
In order for an important component of the suspension to serve the owner for a long time, it is necessary to follow certain standards when changing oils in the shock absorber. A specific shock-absorbing device has its own standardization. A lack of oil fluid or its accidental overflow contributes to:
The shock-absorbing device with anti-breakdown function requires higher filling accuracy. It is extremely important to control the amount of oil required for filling. How much oil should I put in the shock absorbers?
On average, the volume of lubricant in the shock-absorbing device should not exceed a quarter of a liter. But in each specific case this figure is individual. It all depends on the following parameters:
Knowing all these parameters, you can determine the required amount of lubricant.
Source
Bikers, professional athletes and simply lovers of two-wheeled vehicles know very well that proper maintenance of an iron horse is the key to long-term operation and safety on the road. Therefore, they are very responsible about all parts, as well as consumables and liquids. In this article we will tell you what is the best motor oil to fill into motorcycles for four-stroke or two-stroke air-cooled engines or a motorcycle with a radiator.
Depending on the technical characteristics, cost and components contained within the substance, all fuels and lubricants are divided into categories. All of them are suitable for four-stroke bikes.
Mineral
It is the simplest, cheapest, manufactured as a purified petroleum product and contains a very low proportion (up to 20%) of synthetic impurities. The quality of the fluid depends on the cleaning method and how good the additives were used. The optimal choice for bikes with a V-twin engine.
Semi-synthetic
This is an analogue of the previous option, but the share of synthetics in it is much higher - up to 50%. This ensures more stable operation under temperature changes, as well as much better behavior of a cold, unheated engine, since stickiness is reduced and viscosity remains the same even at very high temperatures.
Synthetic
The most perfect option in terms of durability. The percentage of substances obtained by organic synthesis is very high and exceeds 50-60%. But the exact quantity of these additives, as well as their quality, can vary quite a lot depending on the class and cost, as well as on the manufacturer.
Characteristics of the IZH-P5 motor
| engine's type | Single-cylinder, carburetor, two-stroke, air cooled. |
| Working volume, cm 3 | 346 |
| Maximum power, l. With. | 22 (20.9…23.1 at 4850±10% rpm |
| Cylinder diameter, mm | 72 |
| Piston stroke, mm | 85 |
| Compression ratio | 8,2-8,7 |
| Cylinder-piston group lubrication system | mixture of fuel and oil. On later motorcycle models, oil supply is used by an oil pump, which proportions the oil supply depending on the crankshaft speed and engine load in ratios of 1/25-1/100 to the gasoline supply. The filling capacity of the Izh P-5-01 motorcycle engine crankcase is 0.7 l, oil M-8V, M-10V2, MS-14, MS-20, MGD-14M or their foreign analogues. |
| Carburetor | K-65I (in earlier ones - K-62I) |
| Fuel used | motor gasoline with an octane number of at least 76. With a joint lubrication system, gasoline is used in a mixture with motor oils M-8V, M-10V, aviation oil MS-20 in a ratio of 25: 1, or a mixture of gasoline and oil for two-stroke engines MGD-14M (or its foreign analogues) in a ratio of 50:1. |
| Gas tank capacity | 18 l. |
| Air filter | contact-oil |
| Oil filling capacity in the air filter | 0.15 l engine oil |
| Generator | Generator - a three-phase electric machine with electric machine excitation and an electronic rectifier-voltage stabilizer BPV-14-10 (BPV-21-15), with a power of initially 100, then 140 W, or a single-phase generator with excitation from permanent magnets and an electronic regulator RNM-1, power 90 W. |
| Ignition | battery contact capacitor, on later models electronic non-contact, with automatic control of ignition timing based on crankshaft speed and independent of the battery. |
| Spark plug | A23B (or foreign analogues) |
| Accumulator battery | lead acid, type 6MTS-9, 12 volt 9 Ah |
| Transmission | |
| Transfer from engine to clutch | double-row bushing drive chain (reinforced) in an oil bath |
| Clutch | multi-disc in oil bath |
| Gearbox housing filling capacity | 1.0 l, oil M-8V, M-10V2, MS-14, MS-20 or their foreign analogues. |
| Transmission | three-shaft four-speed in one unit with engine and foot gear shift. |
| Transmission from gearbox to rear wheel | closed bushing single row chain |
| Gear ratio from engine to clutch | 2,17 |
| Gear ratio from gearbox to rear wheel | 2,33 |
| Gearbox ratios in gears: | |
| I | 3,88 |
| II | 2,01 |
| III | 1,26 |
| IV | 1,0 |
Recommendations for choosing motorcycle oil
The type of fluid chosen directly depends on the type of engine. He can be:
The second reason for making the right choice is precisely the classification of motor oil that we presented above. This is manufactured using three different technologies, which result in a mineral, semi-synthetic or synthetic material.
There are also not recommendations, but rather requirements on how to choose a product. In 1998, the Japanese standard JASO T 903 was developed, which specifies all the minimum and maximum permissible technical characteristics of fuels and lubricants for four-stroke motorcycles. One of the main criteria that distinguished the product from machine compounds was the behavior of the engine with a wet clutch. And if the liquid has not been certified according to JASO requirements, then it cannot be recommended for use by motorcycle manufacturers.
Below we will show other parameters that determine which oil is best to pour into a motorcycle.
Viscosity and classification of motor oil
We use the American SAE designation system, which is most commonly used throughout the world. Nowadays, products are not divided by season, they are usually called non-seasonal, so it must remain sufficiently liquid during cold starts, and also not spread too much (be viscous) at high temperatures. In order to understand exactly what composition is in front of us according to these indicators, we use markings with the letter W and numbers. Those values that appear before the letter indicate the minimum possible temperature, and after - the maximum permissible. Example: 5W40, 10W30, 10W40 are not very viscous compounds that are well suited for those who like to ride in extreme conditions when the snow has not melted from the asphalt everywhere. This is a great option for pit bikes. But for heavy bikes and sportbikes, the more optimal ones are 10W50, 10W60, 15W50, 20W50 with increased viscosity.
Two-stroke engines
This is often oil for a motocross motorcycle (enduro, pit bike) or for the old Soviet Izh. Also, two strokes are often enough to quickly accelerate a 125cc scooter or motorbike. There are cheap synthetics and very high-quality synthetics that are worth filling, for example, for motocross or other intense wear. For example, 800 2T Factory Line Off Road Motul.
What quality indicators are required for such fuels and lubricants? First of all, this is resistance to soot formation, as well as the amount of smoke emitted during combustion, because the gasoline-oil mixture burns along with the fuel.
There is a division of oils into categories, here are the labels suitable for them:
But there is also a Japanese classification, according to which they distinguish:
Why shouldn’t you pour 4-stroke engine oil into such engines? Because they usually contain a large amount of additives that burn poorly in the fuel tank, leaving carbon deposits. This pollutes your device a lot, but, of course, you will be able to travel 100-200 km.
Rating of motorcycle oils by best brands
Brand awareness is not the most important indicator of quality. Below we will present a list of specific models and give a few words about them. We recommend basing your choice on the individual characteristics of the motorcycle. If you don’t know what composition is best to put in your bike, you can seek advice from the online store tvoymoto.ru; they offer a wide range of products and employ competent specialists.
LUKOIL MOTO 2T
Russian production. Very favorable price (from 139 rubles). Suitable for 2-stroke vehicles, mixed with gasoline in a ratio of 1:50. There are practically no fakes.
MANNOL 4TAKT PLUS 10W40
German brand. The composition is intended not only for motorcycles, but also for any four-stroke internal combustion engines. Semi-synthetics perfectly protect cylinders and pistons, as well as the transmission. Cost – from 350 rub.
Motul 300V Factory Line Road Racing 10W40
High-quality synthetics that protect even under extremely high loads. Suitable for sports bikes in racing conditions. The only downside can be the price - 1320 rubles per liter. The highest place in the ranking is 5 points.
REPSOL MOTO RACING 4T 10W40
The brand is completely specialized in motorcycles and takes into account all the operating features. It is 100% synthetic. Another advantage is good cleaning characteristics. Price – 1100 for 1l. The downside is that it is not available in all stores.
LIQUI MOLY Motorbike 4T 15W-50 Street 4 l
Let us note the versatility of the German expensive product (more than 2,000) - it is suitable for motorcycles, ATVs, and even motor boats.
MOTUL 7100 4T 10W-50
One of the special merits of fuels and lubricants is a very effective reduction of friction, due to which the heating of parts occurs much less, and their service life increases. Unfortunately, it can be difficult to find a product even in Russian online stores.
Eni/Agip i-Ride Scooter 2T
Italian version for two-stroke engines. Plus – low sulfur content. This leads to the fact that mixing with gasoline occurs quickly and homogeneously, and during use there is practically no formation of soot.
IDEMITSU 4T Max Eco 10W-30
This is a mineral product from Japan with very high efficiency. The low oil consumption is especially noticeable over long distances. Users also note a decrease in vibrations and noise.
ZIC M9 4T 10W-40
South Korean lubricant suitable for high loads. Additionally, it protects against oxidative processes and friction.
ELF HTX 3818 SAE 5W-30
Very versatile, but most suited to race track bikes. Viscosity is maintained so well at high speeds and, accordingly, friction. The price for it is really high - from 1000 per liter. If you find it cheaper, most likely it’s a fake; there are a lot of them.
ELF MOTO 4 ROAD 10W-40
Due to the effect on the pressure inside the engine, the dynamics improve. Most people note that road and motocross bikes start to go faster. At the same time, the wear resistance of spare parts also increases.
MOBIL 1 Racing 4T 15W-50
High-quality synthetics with additives for equipment with increased power. Finnish lubricant is considered one of the best in terms of engine starting in cold weather conditions.
CASTROL Power 1 Racing 4T 10W-40
Semi-synthetics, which move very quickly along the highways, guaranteeing a high speed of acceleration. Friction and oxidation do not interfere. There is a drawback - cold starting is problematic, it should be used in the summer.
KAWASAKI Performance Oils 4-Stroke Engine Oil Semi Synthetic SAE 10W-40
Produced by a famous motorcycle brand, the product is of course recommended for the entire Kawasaki four-stroke line. It is positioned as resistant to wear, prevents rust and is very gentle on rubber seals.
Eurol Motorcycle 10W-40
Good protection at sub-zero temperatures - the oil film remains in a strong layer throughout use. But the Netherlands hasn't made enough provisions for friction-reducing additives.
Most common problems
Most often, the motorcycle in question loses or shifts poorly in second gear. This may be due to careless turning on of speeds. For example, when picking up high speeds in first gear without neutral, when engaging the second speed gear, an impact occurs, which contributes to intensive wear of the unit. Therefore, it is not recommended to “spin” the first speed too much. If, nevertheless, problems with the second position continue, there are several options for resolving them.
In some cases, the simplest method will help, without completely disassembling and then reassembling the Izh-Planet 5 box. It is necessary to place the motorcycle on the right side, and then remove the kick starter and gear shift foot along with the shaft. Next, the crankcase cover and clutch basket along with the discs are dismantled.
When the gears of the box wear out, the meshing of the teeth deteriorates. In turn, this leads to slipping, jerking and failure of the second gear. Another reason could be wear on the input shaft bearings. Since it moves slightly to the left due to vibration, it is necessary to move it into place with light blows using a mallet. The installation of washers of suitable diameter will allow you to fix the element in the desired position. Then the bearing stopper and other dismantled parts are reassembled in the reverse order.
It happens that disassembling/assembling the Izh-Planet 5 box may be necessary if the fourth speed disappears. This is often due to broken bearings on the output shaft. Such a nuisance occurs due to the presence of axial play, displacement of the bearing assembly, or its failure. You can try to fix the problem in the same way as repairing the second gear. If this does not help, you will need to completely disassemble the unit.
When the speed switch jams from a high range to a low mode, the spring system of the switching mechanism has failed. It needs to be replaced. Strained operation of the unit after assembling the Izh-Planet 5 gearbox indicates incorrect installation of the adjusting washers. To avoid this, it is necessary to mark and record the previous placement of these elements during the process.
