Most often, some small thing is to blame, although there may be a more serious failure. Here are 16 reasons why your car's engine may not want to come back to life after a winter of inactivity.
the motorcycle won't start...
The temperature outside is above zero, the asphalt is as dry as pepper, but if it gets cold, clothes will save you. It's time to start the season! Feeling a thirst for driving, you feverishly enter the garage, like a young man before a first date, with your hand trembling with impatience, insert the key into the ignition, turn it, press the starter... What happens next is like a blow to the stomach, because instead of the music of the engine, you hear silence.
It's not hard to predict that you'll swear first. However, it is definitely too early to fall into despair. Instead of getting angry, check a few things, step by step, according to the diagram we offer you. If you've winterized a good car and haven't picked it up in the meantime (that is, you haven't unknowingly ruined something), you can deal with most reasons why an engine won't run.
What could go wrong
- Ignition - no spark, the spark is weak, or it comes out “every once.”
- Gasoline supply - fuel is not supplied to the combustion chamber or is supplied in insufficient or excess quantities, does not enter the carburetor or injector, the quality of the fuel does not meet the standard.
- Air supply - the air filter is clogged, the damper adjustment is incorrect, the air filter housing is damaged, the intake pipe is “sucking”, the filter filling is missing.
Diagnostics will help to find out the cause of the breakdown.
The motorcycle starts and immediately stalls
The engine may suddenly stall due to an ignition or power failure. Mechanical breakdowns of the chassis are much less common. The engine immediately stalls if it does not have enough fuel or, conversely, there is too much of it, and the reason for this may be a malfunction of the spark plugs, carburetor, fuel pump or hoses. Tuning and flushing the carburetor will be the most likely solution. If the spark plugs are cleaned and the carburetor is working properly, the breakdown will probably be found in the ignition coil or starter enrichment.
Motorcycle won't start when cold
- Trying to start the engine in cold weather? You'll have to work hard to "wake up" him. The fuel mixture in the combustion chamber ignites only at a certain temperature, and engine oil becomes very thick in cold weather. We check the condition of the oil and depress the clutch during the starting process.
- Was the equipment stored in a poorly heated garage during the winter? In spring, rust appears on its components due to high humidity. Before you go on your first spring trip, the rust from the ignition parts must be removed.
- Difficulties with cold starting also occur in the warm season. If the motorcycle does not catch (does not start) after a long period of inactivity, you need to check the condition of the carburetor or increase the fuel level in the float chamber.
Replacing relays in the mounting block
I swapped large relays in the mounting block with other similar relays and there was no result. The smaller relays are all the same, except for one, which has a blue stripe. These relyushki can be interchanged in any order. The relay marked with blue paint comes with the number 200041 0812, and the rest have the number 200041 1432.
We will install the relay with the blue stripe in its place, and the others can be in any order. It would be interesting to know if the VAZ Kalina relay will fit the Renault Logan, write in the comments.
We try to start the engine, it doesn’t start, only the starter relay clicks, then we’ll try again to swap the relays.
The lead terminals of the battery terminals must be cleaned of oxide using a damp cloth soaked in soda solution or a metal dishwashing sponge. And also, having dismantled all the fuses, you need to check the coils to see if they are burned out or not.
In the parking lot, the car started after the large relays were swapped...
Renault engine failure
If you repeatedly turn the ignition key “click” in one start position, the starter sometimes engages and the engine starts. This combination must be repeated several times until the current is “excited” to the starter and the engine starts.
From this we can conclude that the power terminals on the starter itself have oxidized. In this case, you need to perform one small operation under the car from an inspection hole, overpass, or in a car service center.
Let's put back the plastic cover of the mounting block; after these manipulations we won't need it. We install the headlight adjustment cable last so that it will interfere with the fastening of the cover. The fasteners were made inconveniently, it is difficult to pull out and put in its place. First, the lower part is seated against the wiring harness, and then the cover fastening is snapped on top by hand.
Rubber mat for battery
I recommend covering the upper part of the battery with a rubber mat from the battery tray of VAZ cars, produced by BRT in the city of Balakovo. Freely sold in the Lada VAZ spare parts store or at the car market.
The edges of the rubber mat are cut on both sides with scissors in the area of the wires connecting the battery terminals (see video at the end of the article). It is advisable to wrap the positive terminal with electrical tape, on which a rubber mat will lie.
The insulation of the car's engine, the felt, burns from the acid evaporating from under the cap of the battery cans, and the rubber of the mat creates protection. On VAZ cars it serves as a battery tray and protects the metal of the body from acid.
And also for the winter, I insulate the thermostat with a felt from the oncoming wind blowing through the main radiator and the engine temperature remains stable in one position after warming up. But also, the 2-4-2 divisions on the dashboard stop “jumping” and the car interior becomes much warmer in winter. As the weather gets warmer in the spring, I remove the felt from the engine and thermostat.
So, one of the red wires from the positive terminal of the battery goes to the starter, which we need to get to from the inspection hole.
Let's digress a little from the topic. An interesting phenomenon occurred in the inspection hole; I left 3 bottles of distilled water in a bag and one container froze, but the other two did not. One water bottle protected two bottles from the frost that were placed against the wall. Distilled water protected the rest of the water in the other two containers from frost with its body.
So, from the inspection hole you can see the red cable, screwed with a nut to the terminal of the Renault Logan retractor starter.
These terminals oxidize and burn, and therefore it is necessary to carry out preventive maintenance as the Renault Logan is used. First, spray the oxidized contacts with liquid from an aerosol can of WD-40, and then turn the starter and see if the engine starts or not.
I always carry a bottle of WD40 liquid in the trunk of my car just in case. In winter, door locks sometimes freeze, and as soon as you line this liquid, the keyholes begin to work.
So, we need to get closer to the starter with one hand and generously spray the liquid key from the can onto the terminal with the nut at the end of the red wire. It would be ideal if you unscrew the nut and clean the contact points with sandpaper, and tighten it back thoroughly.
The nut is connected to the terminal as one whole, and some craftsmen cut off this threaded nut ( and install a regular nut with an engraving washer on it. It was possible to loosen the nut a little and loosen the wire with the terminal and thereby improve the contact. But I did not do this as You need to conduct an experiment and see the result of the action of the VD-40 liquid as you use the car.
Successful engine start
After waiting 5-10 minutes, we start the engine, which immediately woke up and growled loudly in a metallic voice, turn it off and try to start it again. Everything works well, let’s drive it and see in practice, if it doesn’t work, let’s play around with the ignition key and start the engine.
I think you can remove the right wheel and reach with one hand to the starter terminal and spray liquid key from the can. Oxidation will pass and the starter will start working again.
As soon as you have free time, you will need to unscrew the nut assembled with the red wire and thoroughly clean it from oxidation.
As it gets warmer, the oil in the automatic transmission will need to be replaced or topped up, as in winter it slowly leaks out through the seals; you can see a small drip on the bottom of the box. The outer and inner CV joint boots are intact, not torn and there are no oil leaks. From the VAZ 1111 Oka car, rubber boots are installed on the steering racks.
Gasoline supply
If the faucet flows fuel normally, check to see if sediment has accumulated in the carburetor float chamber. Open the drain hole, drain the contents, close it, and try to start the engine again.
To find out whether gasoline is entering the combustion chamber itself, you will need a spark plug wrench. Remove the armor wire from the spark plug, open the tap and operate the starter, then unscrew the spark plug and inspect the insulator. If it is dry, there is a problem with the fuel supply. A wet spark plug will need to be dried before screwing it back in.
Checking the fuel supply.
Remove the fuel supply hose from the carburetor/injector.
Carefully! There must be gasoline in the hose, and it may be under pressure.
If there is no gasoline there, then the problem is most likely in the fuel pump or fuel tap.
And if you can try to solve the problem with the faucet yourself (rinse, blow out, clean), then it is better to entrust the problem with the gas pumps to specialists, so as not to make things worse.
All these actions led to nothing?
Checking cylinder compression
If the Minsk motorcycle still does not start, then you need to check the compression. To do this, you need to unscrew the spark plug and pour a few grams of gasoline directly into the cylinder through the vacated hole.
Next, tighten the spark plug and try to start the motorcycle. After this, the engine should start and after running at full speed for a few seconds, stall.
If the motorcycle starts, then you should move on to more careful adjustment of the carburetor. Namely, using the appropriate bolts, try to adjust the opening of the idle air damper and adjust the proportions of the mixture entering the combustion chamber.
If the Minsk motorcycle does not start, there is a spark - this means that the mixture entering the combustion chamber does not reach the required compression and does not ignite.
There are many reasons why there may be no compression in the cylinder of a Minsk motorcycle:
- If the engine is equipped with valves, you may need to check for cracks on them. Also, the valves may not fit tightly to the “seat” or it may have quite a lot of wear.
- Burnout of the cylinder head gasket due to wear;
- Cylinder seizure due to engine overheating;
- Severe wear on the cylinder or piston;
- The cylinder rings have collapsed or are not installed correctly;
- Cracks have formed on the piston or cylinder due to long use;
- For engines equipped with valves, the gas distribution valve circuit may be broken, or this mechanism may not be installed correctly.
Therefore, for subsequent diagnosis of a malfunction of the Minsk motorcycle, it is necessary to completely disassemble the cylinder. It should be done slowly and ensure the cleanliness of all components.
Armed with patience, you need to examine all available spare parts for faults, defects, or simply incorrect installation.
Having made a lot of effort to carry out the described manipulations, it is safe to say that all attempts were made to eliminate the cause of the motorcycle malfunction: the functionality of the fuel system and ignition system was checked, and the presence of compression was checked.
But if the Minsk motorcycle still fails to start, then perhaps you should contact a motorcycle service center with specialized specialists for accurate diagnostics and subsequent repair of the motorcycle.
If the moped is not
Sometimes it happens that the moped does not want to start after several hours of inactivity. However, after warming up, it works and starts stably. Let's figure out why this happens.
When the engine is cold, all clearances (in the piston, in the valves, etc.) are far from ideal. Plus, when fuel gets on cold engine parts, it evaporates worse and therefore ignites worse. Because of this, during a cold start the engine needs a richer mixture than usual. It is for this purpose that devices are made on carburetor engines to enrich the mixture at start-up.
On the Alpha moped (and similar ones), an air damper is installed. It reduces the air flow and thereby enriches the working mixture. The damper has two positions: “closed” - the lever is raised up, “open” - the lever is lowered down. When starting “on a cold” air damper must be closed (lift the lever up) . When the engine runs for a while with the throttle closed, it needs to be opened. Driving with the throttle closed will lead to increased fuel consumption and the formation of carbon deposits on the spark plug and piston.
What to do if a cold moped does not start even with the throttle closed? Try using a syringe to fill in 5-7 ml. gasoline directly into the carburetor inlet pipe. If the moped starts after this, then the carburetor needs to be adjusted. If it doesn’t start, check the spark and compression (see above).
Burgman-Club
07.04.2020, 01:32
Doesn't the starter turn? What could it be?
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1. The engine start button is normal, I insure myself in the parking lot and turn it on periodically.
Not a button. 2. I checked the brake sensor. The brake light comes on on both brakes. That's not the reason. 3. Contacts on the starter relay? The relay doesn't even click, the starter is completely silent. 4. The relay is covered - Where is it located? I've already taken apart almost all the plastic. I don't see a starter relay. 5. The starter is covered - Unlikely. The engine wouldn't stall. And Bendix would click. While I'm hoping for the starter relay, I can't find it. It’s not on the frame, I removed the face with the headlight - there’s a lot of stuff, I don’t see the relay.
The question is: Could there be a resistance of about 700 ohms on the sidestand sensor? When opening, there is a complete break in contact; when the footrest is retracted, the resistance is 700 Ohms.
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- Moto: Sky 400K5 Type-S, Burg 250K6, Address V100
- City: Moscow, Southern Administrative District
- Age: 33
Last edited by Fasterpast 14:49, 09/14/2014
—————————————— The most difficult thing when riding a moped after winter is not to close your eyes from the pleasure!
Starter turns but won't start
If the starter of the described equipment spins when you turn the key in the ignition, but the engine does not show any signs. The cause of the malfunction may lie in both the electrical equipment of the car and the mechanics. Auto electrician malfunctions can be as described above, except for malfunctions associated with the starter and its circuits, plus the following reasons:
- Malfunction of the high pressure fuel pump (HPF)
- Mechanical engine failure
- “Airing” of fuel equipment
- Immobilizer malfunction
- Lack of diesel fuel in the tank
- Fuel filter clogged
- Chip in the key is faulty
- Clogged fuel lines
- Check valve failure
- Mechanical faults of injectors
Features of checking the performance of elements of the starting system of a car engine
After visual inspection of the condition of the starting system parts, they begin to dismantle the starter to test its components:
- It is possible to determine how worn out the brush assembly is only after disassembling the starter housing. Despite the long service life of the brushes, they still wear out. At the same time, their development on some starter models does not allow the traction relay to be activated. In this case, the clicks it makes will not be heard.
- Burning of the windings on the coils can be easily determined both visually and by the presence of a burning smell. Since it makes no sense to restore their functionality, you will have to replace the starter.
- It is possible to perform a traction stress test without its housing. To do this, you need to close the two large terminals on the relay using a screwdriver, being careful not to catch the housing elements. The presence of problems with the retractor will be signaled by the beginning of shaft rotation. Note that one of the unpleasant consequences of this is the burning of the relay contact groups. Since they contain a special protective coating to prevent damage, it is not recommended to clean carbon deposits from them. In this case, only a complete replacement of the traction rod is indicated.
The motorcycle suddenly stalled and would not start
Remember what preceded the breakdown:
- While driving, the power dropped sharply, the engine began to run jerkily, then fell silent - perhaps there was not enough fuel. The gas tank has run out or the tap is clogged.
- The motorcycle stalled in the rain or after driving through a puddle - the air filter or wiring was flooded, or both. Dry everything you can reach.
- While driving or at the start, the engine ran smoothly, then simply stalled - there was an electrical problem. The spark disappeared, the mass fell off, the coil or switch “died”. If this happens a short time after starting, check whether you forgot to open the fuel tap.
- The running engine “troil” did not develop high speeds, and after stopping it could not start - problems with the ignition settings or the carburetor was incorrectly adjusted.
Electric starter does not turn on
The ignition button is off - red on the right side of the steering wheel.
Dirty contacts in the ignition switch or near the starter button - unscrew the switch and clean the contacts using a special sprayer for electrical installations.
Battery voltage is too low: If you hear the characteristic sound of the starter relay firing, charge or replace the battery.
The main fuse or ignition relay has blown - check and replace what is needed.
A starter malfunction, for example, due to burned out stator windings or core, is unlikely to be corrected on your own, so contact a service center.
Main breakdowns and methods for solving them
On scooters, the electric starter often fails. Of course, Kickstarter can help out, but it’s not very convenient to use. The engine may not start due to a faulty battery: the contacts have come loose, the charge has run out, the device is worn out. If there is no spinning sound when the starter turns on, then the problem is in the battery. If you can’t charge it, it means it’s out of order, worn out and you’ll have to install a new one.
If pressing “Start” does not produce a click in the electric starter relay, the problem is more serious. The unit may be faulty and needs to be replaced. The problem can arise when various components wear out. Most often they need to be replaced.
You can fix some scooter problems yourself
Electric starter does not work
If the scooter does not start from the foot, then its operation is impaired. If the electrical circuit is working properly, but the relay clicks when you press “Start,” then the problem is a bad contact or a broken starter.
To evaluate its performance, you need to apply voltage to it without activating the relay. If the electric starter does not turn, then it needs to be replaced.
Starter relay failure
The relay maintains the voltage at the required level for further distribution to headlights, dashboard indicators and other elements. Its durability depends on the battery. If the voltage in the generator increases or decreases, the relay is faulty. Because of this, the starter does not start. In this case, the relay needs to be replaced.
Problems with the button
When the Start button is pressed, the starter rotates and drives the engine gears. If the scooter does not start with the electric starter button, there is a malfunction. The wiring in the engine starting system could have come loose. If the scooter starts from the foot, but not from the “Start” button, then the fuse is faulty: the voltage in the generator drops, so the button does not work.
To check the functionality of the fuse, you need to measure the voltage at the battery terminals and in the fuse. If losses are detected, a new fuse must be installed. After replacing the part, the moped will start from the “Start” button.
If the scooter breaks down, the electric starter may not work.
Broken brake contact (toad)
The brake system needs regular inspections, as driving safety depends on it. A breakdown of any other scooter system is easy to identify, since engine operation is disrupted. Brake failure can only be detected by diagnosing the vehicle. During the inspection, you need to check the integrity of all parts and the amount of brake fluid.
Replacing brake fluid is necessary every 8-11 months, depending on the intensity of use. In this case, you need to use the liquid recommended by the manufacturer. If the brake pads are worn down by 2 mm, they need to be replaced. Hoses need to be replaced if there are cracks or abrasions.
If system parts are worn out, brake contact is lost. Because of this, the engine will not start.
Contacts have come loose or oxidized
If the scooter does not start, the reason may be the contacts with the battery. It is necessary to check if they are charged. This must be done carefully to avoid electric shock. If there is no spark, you need to check the electronics. Most often the reason is oxidation of the terminals. When they become coated, the scooter does not start moving from the starter. You can clean the contacts with sandpaper or gasoline.
Contacts with the battery may be the reason if the scooter does not start
Bendix doesn't work
The starter fails due to careless handling of the bendix - the starter wire that engages with the engine flywheel and powers it. When the engine starts, a special mechanism with a relay pulls the bendix into the starter, stopping the engagement. Inexperienced drivers most often encounter Bendix breakdowns.
If in winter the engine does not start on the first try, they hold the "Start" button for a long time and spin the engine. The flywheel cannot rotate at the specified speed, causing the drive to jam. As a result, the starter overheats and the bendix fails. This may cause the starter housing to burst. Depending on the degree of damage, replacement of the bendix or the entire system is required.
The battery is dead or damaged
If the scooter refuses to move after starting the starter, you need to try starting it using the kickstarter. The battery may have run out. If you couldn't charge it, it means it's completely out of order.
Fuse blown
Due to damage to the power system, no current flows to the battery, so it does not charge. When the battery is charged, the engine stalls and does not start either with the kickstarter or the electric starter. The most common reason is that a fuse with a lower capacity than recommended by the manufacturer is installed. If the new fuse fails quickly, the electrical circuit is faulty. If a short circuit occurs, the wires need to be replaced.
Inexperienced drivers most often encounter bendix failure
Crankshaft seals are leaking
The front oil seal may leak after a mileage of more than 100 thousand km. In working condition, it fits tightly to the crankshaft. When the crankshaft beats, the inner surface of the oil seal cracks. Because of this, it cannot press tightly to the surface. Leakage can also occur due to the use of low-quality oil.
Another reason for the malfunction is related to engine failure. As pressure increases, crankcase gases create a gap in the oil seal through which oil flows out. The reason for leaking of the new oil seal may lie in the poor quality of the part itself or improper installation. If you bend the inner edge of the rubber when installing it, oil will flow out through it. In this case, the oil seal must be replaced.
If the rear oil seal leaks, oil can get onto the clutch disc and render it unusable. To replace it you will need to remove the box, clutch and flywheel.
Low compression
Compression in an engine is related to the mixing of fuel with air. The process is important for normal engine operation. A decrease in the indicator is very easy to determine: the engine does not start on the first try or does not start at all with low compression in all cylinders. Most often this occurs due to overheating or wear of the valves. Gases escape too quickly, causing compression to decrease.
The compression test takes about an hour. The indicator is measured by a compression meter. If low compression is detected, you need to check the condition of the cylinders, valves, gaskets and pistons. After replacing the damaged parts, compression will return to normal.
Low compression may be the cause
Old fuel
This problem occurs after winter. The tank is full of gasoline, but the electric starter does not start the engine. The reason is old gasoline. You need to drain it and fill the gas tank with new fuel.
No spark in spark plug
Diagnosing a breakdown is easy. You need to unscrew the spark plug, connect it to the ignition coil using a wire and place it on the cylinder. If there is no spark when the crankshaft rotates, the spark plug needs to be replaced.
Poor contact at battery terminals
Oxidation or poor terminal contact on the battery prevents the engine from starting. Diagnostics can be easily performed by visually inspecting the connection points between the terminals and the battery. If they are covered with a white coating, it means that the contact has been broken. It's easy to fix the situation. You need to remove the terminals and clean the deposits with sandpaper, then screw them onto the battery and cover the connection points with a special lubricant. If it is not there, you can use technical Vaseline.
Carburetor clogged
Difficulty starting the engine or failures in its operation occur when the carburetor becomes clogged.
When the carburetor becomes clogged, the engine becomes difficult to start or fails to operate.
To remove it, you need:
- unscrew the pipes;
- disconnect the terminals;
- remove the tube and drainage;
- remove the throttle cable;
- disassemble the carburetor assembly, clean it and put it back.
No compression
If the spark plug and battery are working fine, but the engine still won't start, then there is a compression problem. You need to check the pressure using a compression gauge. Lack of compression indicates a broken compressor ring. After replacing them, you can continue using the scooter. The procedure is quite complicated, so it is better to contact the service.
Cold weather
If the scooter stalls in the cold, it means that the spark plug cap or its connecting element is broken. It is necessary to unscrew the cap, bring the wire 3 mm to the motor element and rotate the crankshaft. In cold weather, a moped conducts current when a bare section of wire comes into contact with a metal element.
The starter does not start due to carbon deposits on the electrode
Carbon deposits on the electrode
Due to carbon deposits on the electrode, the starter does not start. The deposits must be carefully removed with a plaster zero. But it’s better to put a new candle in. It is advisable to buy a part that is recommended by the manufacturer.
Insufficient fuel
If, even though all systems are working properly, the moped does not move, it means there is not enough fuel in the tank. The indicator on the dashboard may have broken, indicating a lack of gasoline.
Spark test
To check the Minsk motorcycle, you need to remove the spark plug and unscrew the spark plug. Next, you should immediately determine (wet or dry) the spark plug contact.
If the contact is wet, then most likely there is a problem with the spark plug in your motorcycle. If the contact is dry, then you should look for a problem in the carburetor.
Since the spark plug has already been unscrewed, you can diagnose and verify its functionality. Before checking for a spark, the correct gap between the spark plug electrodes should be set.
According to the technical recommendation of the Minsk motorcycle manufacturer, the required gap should be from 0.4 to 0.7 mm, depending on the model. The gap is set using a feeler gauge, which can be purchased at any auto or motorcycle parts store. If you work on the Minsk motorcycle yourself, then this tool should already be in your kit.
To check the spark on a removed spark plug:
- insert the candle into the candle holder;
- short-circuit the spark plug body to ground;
- activate the winding stem.
Attention! When checking the spark plug, you must hold it only by the installed candle holder, otherwise electric shock may occur.
It should also be noted that spark is different. The correct working spark should always be the same, clearly visible, and always pass in the same place.
If a spark does not jump between the contacts of the spark plug, then it is necessary to check again, but using a different spark plug. If after re-checking a spark appears, this indicates that the installed spark plug was faulty and should be replaced. If there is still no spark, then you need to check the ignition system of the Minsk motorcycle.
If everything is in order with this, then we look at the spark plugs.
Unscrew the spark plugs. Are they damp and smell like gasoline? This means they are flooded. This can be for two reasons - you filled them or there is a malfunction in the motorcycle.
If you did this, for example, you turned off or started the motorcycle incorrectly, then you can fix it as follows.
Dry the spark plugs, blow them out and heat them. !We do not clean with a wire brush!
Next, put the dry spark plugs in place and try to start the motorcycle. If the motorcycle works, then !hurray! we continue our way.
TIP: purchase and carry a spare set of candles with you; once filled candles can stop working at any time, even if you bought them just yesterday.
If after the above steps the motorcycle does not start, then there is a clear malfunction either in the presence of a spark or in the fuel supply. You will have to take the motorcycle to a specialist motorcycle service center.
The candles are fine, they are dry.
First start
After a long period of inactivity, the motorcycle needs proper maintenance before the first start. In order to understand why a motorcycle does not start after winter, you need to remember the sequence of preserving your bike after the end of the season.
The first thing that is usually done in preparing a vehicle for long-term storage without movement is to remove the battery . It must be stored in a cool place, in a charged state. Therefore, to start the new season, you will need to install the battery in place. Sometimes a motorcycle does not start after winter precisely because of the lack of charge in the battery. Before installing the battery in place, it may need to be recharged.
It is important to store the motorcycle with a full tank of gasoline, otherwise condensation may cause metal corrosion. Contrary to widespread misconception, gasoline in the tank does not deteriorate, and this cannot be the reason why a Ural or Honda motorcycle does not start.
In any case, before starting to drive, you must carefully check the presence of antifreeze, brake fluid, and change the oil. Brake fluid is very sensitive to environmental humidity. If there are leaky connections, it absorbs moisture, which leads to oxidation of the brake system, and in some cases, to brake failure. And remember, your haste or inattention can cause serious damage to your motorcycle, especially after a long period of inactivity.
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Signs of a faulty starter
There are actually many reasons why a car won't start. However, a faulty starter can be determined by the appearance of one or more of the following symptoms:
- the starter does not turn on;
- the starter clicks, but does not turn the engine crankshaft;
- when the starter is turned on, the crankshaft rotates very slowly, which is why the engine does not start;
- You can hear the metallic grinding sound of the Bendix gear, which does not mesh with the crankshaft.
Next, let's move on to discussing the possible causes of a possible breakdown. In particular, we will analyze situations when the starter either does not rotate at all or does not rotate the engine crankshaft.
Why doesn't my motorcycle start in the cold?
Cold fuel cannot evaporate normally and settles on the walls of the intake tract. For an emergency cold start, warm up the intake manifold with a hair dryer or hot water when it is not very cold. Do not use open flames to warm up the engine.
After parking a warm motorcycle for a long time in the cold, condensation may accumulate in the tank, filter or float chamber. In winter it freezes and blocks the flow of fuel. In this case, after the engine has warmed up, you need to drain the condensate before starting the motorcycle.
Why won't a warm motorcycle start?
Difficulties with starting arise after several minutes of operation: the engine stalls, does not “catch” when hot, and you have to wait until the engine cools down at least a little. The most likely cause is air leaks in the intake tract or under the cylinder head.
Other possible reasons:
- the ignition timing is incorrectly set;
- low compression in cylinders;
- The valve clearance is off (on a four-stroke motorcycle).
In these cases, diagnostics “empty-handed” will not help - professional equipment is needed to check the indicators.
Even if the starting problem occurs sporadically, we advise you not to delay and diagnose the motorcycle before a serious malfunction occurs. At the first problem, contact the service center.